Author Topic: Kickstarting advice  (Read 12911 times)

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Kiwichick

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on: November 03, 2007, 08:02:11 pm
My earlierst introduction to REs: when I was a Triumph owner, I remember seeing a cartoon on my parts-guy's workshop wall.

It showed a group of guys, on chairs in a row  in a Doctor's waiting room.  Each of them had their right leg pointing off in some odd direction from the knee down.

Each was wearing a "Royal Enflield Owners Club" teeshirt.


Maybe it is a classic old joke.  Anyway, this cartoon may have subconciously scarred me against kickstarting!

I'd like to know your thoughts on kickstart technique, and in particular, what causes the leaver to kick back (and potentially break your leg, according to the cartoon!) - ie what do I avoid?

Even though I have an Electra (I mentioned in another post, I'm a newbie - I brought her home yesterday!) I'd like to mostly kickstart her.  After all, that looks damned fine!


Thanks
Biddy


RagMan

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Reply #1 on: November 03, 2007, 09:07:08 pm
Don't do anything I did.. I broke my ankle and foot kickstating the Enfield, about 9 weeks ago - I am nearly better, but not yet.
aka Indiana Bulleteer.
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Tiny Tim

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Reply #2 on: November 03, 2007, 10:05:09 pm
Generally speaking, there are three reasons that an Enfield will kick back at you:

1. you didn't get it past the compression stroke
2. You kicked it with the throttle open
3. The timing is out

If you're sure that the timing's OK, the following method works so well for me, I assure you that I can start mine by hand when she is up in the air in the workshop.

1. with the ignition off, and the petrol on, operate the decompressor and kick over three times
2. Release the decompressor and kick gently until the compression stroke is felt
3. Use the decompressor to enable you to lift the piston just over top dead centre
4. Apply choke if you feel it's necessary
5. switch on
6. one good kick with no throttle, but be ready to catch the engine with the throttle when she fires

WARNING:
the above method is guaranteed not to work if you've just stalled the bike at traffic lights

D'oh!

REgards

TT
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Kiwichick

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Reply #3 on: November 03, 2007, 11:57:48 pm
Thanks - that sounds great.  But just before I start, is there a way you can find the words to describe "until the decompression stroke is felt" and "lifting the piston just over top dead centre"? 

I think that's what I'm doing (without trying to actually start it yet!) but getting a sense of what that FEELS like - maybe just experience - but an experience I'd rather have without broken ankle! 

Thanks
Biddy


RagMan

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Reply #4 on: November 04, 2007, 12:20:41 am
The compression stroke is the part of the cycle that tries to stop you from rolling on further - the kick start will feel very tough to move. At that time, you are just before Top dead center. Using the decompresser and just barely rolling past that point, puts you past TDC, a prime place to start.

Make sure the fuel is on, the run / kill switch is run, throttle off, choke on, if needed, turn key, and.....
Kick briskly, as far as you can - get the lever all the way down, and if your timing is good, the bike will start.

Murphy suggests otherwise, and if he is right, do it all again.

Make sure the timing is good. My ankle still hurts.
aka Indiana Bulleteer.
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indian48

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Reply #5 on: November 04, 2007, 12:34:56 am
As a new and first time rider, I am struggling to manage the kick start as well! It works fine when the bike is warmed up, its the starting from cold that I need the battery for - unfortunately that is when the recommendation is to use the kick start, in the interest of battery life - as recommended to me at the shop. I am guessing that kicking it to life gets easier as the engine gets broken in.
To the advice posted, I would add that once you get past TDC, you want to let the kick start lever go and let it come back on its own to the top, so when you do kick it down, you get the benefit of the entire length of the stroke. As I said, this works fine for me when the bike is warm,,,,,,,,,
Good luck - and I endorse the comment about things not working too well at traffic lights!
If anything is worth doing, it is worth doing well


Foggy_Auggie

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Reply #6 on: November 04, 2007, 01:22:26 am
WARNING:
the above method is guaranteed not to work if you've just stalled the bike at traffic lights

D'oh!

REgards

TT


And the Enfield doesn't give any advance warning - such as stuttering - when you run out of gas... The engine just quits smartly.
Mine quit at a very busy intersection while waiting for the light.  The time it took for me to reach down and move the tank valve to reserve, the car horns started honking and traffic started going around me on both sides.  Thank heaven for the electric starter - even though it took some cranking while the carb float bowl refilled.

I now fill up every 150 miles regardless.  Keeping  track of the mileage on a note pad.

Regards, Foggy
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indian48

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Reply #7 on: November 04, 2007, 02:41:36 am
To the last post, that is a big concern and the one thing that RE is still not doing is installing a fuel level gauge. The engine cutting out when you go to reserve could be fatal if it happened at a critical moment,,,does it really cut out without a warning stutter? I know my old Jawa stuttered and I had just enough time to move the cock to reserve.
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RagMan

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Reply #8 on: November 04, 2007, 11:08:32 am
Mine has run out once - it did not stutter, but it did surge slightly - I have felt that surge on other occasions, and switched then successfully.
aka Indiana Bulleteer.
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indian48

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Reply #9 on: November 04, 2007, 11:39:57 am
Finally managed to kick start the bike when cold - not quite the way I want to finally, but with the bike on the center stand. I followed the steps laid out here, and was rewarded on the second attempt. My problem also is that being a left handed person, my left leg is stronger than the right one as well, and keeping the bike on the center stand allowed me to use the stronger limb! Either leg, I think that the center stand allows for a better range of motion that is part of the trick I suspect.
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dewjantim

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Reply #10 on: November 04, 2007, 05:23:55 pm
I'm with you, I hate to kickstart my bike on the sidestand, it wobbles around to much....Dew.
If it hurts, you're not dead yet!!!!!


Foggy_Auggie

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Reply #11 on: November 04, 2007, 07:06:54 pm
To the last post, that is a big concern and the one thing that RE is still not doing is installing a fuel level gauge. The engine cutting out when you go to reserve could be fatal if it happened at a critical moment,,,does it really cut out without a warning stutter? I know my old Jawa stuttered and I had just enough time to move the cock to reserve.

Mine just quits suddenly.  One time while riding, as in my post, and each time I store it for winter.

After putting Sta-Bil in a full gas tank - I run the bike at idle and then shut off the fuel petcock.  I hold the throttle just off of idle.  In about 1-1/2 minutes it just stops like the ignition is cut off.

No fuel gauge is needed, but a resetting trip odometer would really be great.  On my other bikes (without fuel gauges) I just reset the trip odometer to "000" everytime I fill up the gas tank.  I go 150 to 175 miles and then pull into a gas station - a regular routine I've done all my life.

Regards, Foggy
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indian48

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Reply #12 on: November 04, 2007, 08:12:40 pm
I would not ever want to ks it on the sidestand, but it would be nice to be able to do so from cold, sitting on it with the left leg planted on the left of the bike! For now though, the center stand it is, from the right side, but using my stronger left leg. Leave the ES for just the traffic situations.
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Kiwichick

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Reply #13 on: November 04, 2007, 11:07:32 pm
Excuse my ignorance, but can you tell me, when I gently kick it over two or three times prior to starting (with decomp lever pulled) does this put fuel into the carb fuel bowl as well as distribute oil?


Thanks
Biddy


indian48

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Reply #14 on: November 04, 2007, 11:50:00 pm
I believe that the fuel to carb bowl is gravity fed, but what the priming strokes may do is to pull some fuel air mix into the cylinder.
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indian48

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Reply #15 on: November 05, 2007, 12:23:44 am
Re the decompress lever, I have read that it sometimes sticks in the open position, and hence it is best avoided. Since one can still get over TDC on the compression stroke without it, what are the view on that advice here?
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jonapplegate

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Reply #16 on: November 05, 2007, 02:40:46 am
Here is how I kick my RE to life. with the clutch in, kick the engine over a few times to loosen the clutch plates. You will feel them come loose. This is good. Next, let off the clutch, engage the decompressor lever and kick the engine thru a couple times, flip the fuel "on"  kick it thru a couple more times. Turn on the ignition,and looking at the ammeter guage, watch the needle as you push down on the kickstart lever. It should drop down into the negative and then when it swings back straight up, you are ready to kick start the bike for real. Release the decompressor,turn on the choke, and kick the lever downward all the way to the ground. This way if the bike does happen to kick back your foot should be more or less out of the way. If your bike is new it is going be hard to do when it is cold. You might want to electric start it first and then practice kicking it after it has warmed up. Once it is broken in a bit it will get easier and easier to do, and it does look damn fine!

                                                                        Cheers and good luck!
                                                                                                             Jon


Tiny Tim

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Reply #17 on: November 05, 2007, 09:13:35 am
Kiwichick,

Unless you are Jonah Lomu's sister, the compression stroke is the part of the stoke where you can stand on the kickstart lever without it going round any further.

Where you need the engine to be, is just past this point. Get off the kickstart and pull the decomnpressor lever in. Now operate the kickstart just a little to get over the hump.

With regards to starting on the bike on the centre stand, I never do anything else. UK bikes have an ignition cut-out switch built into the side stand as a safety device.

With regards to Iniana's right foot / left foot comment, I always start my bikes with my left peg as I have an injury to my right hip that doesn't need the excercise.

Watching for the ameter needle to flick won't work with many electronic ignitions.

The lean burn engine decompressor is not so much a decompressor as a valve lifter. You have to jiggle the kickstart to get past compression or just kick through it.

With regards to the traffic light stalling problem, I think that the green light sucks all of the energy from the ignition. It must be that because that's exactly when it dies!

On a seious note, If you fail to respect the staring proceedure, be warned. The 500 has the capability of doing you some real damage. IndianaBuleteer broke 4 bones in his foot!

I have heard the kickstart lever refered to as an "anti-theft device" before now.

"If you can start it, you can have it"

It looks impressive when you have an audience and got through the prceedure and it thumps into life on the first kick.

For me, however, nothing beats the electric boot.

REgards
TT
REgards

Tiny Tim

"Whilst it isn't possible to polish a turd, you can always roll it in glitter"

2005 Electra AVL


Leonard

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Reply #18 on: November 05, 2007, 01:45:12 pm
You might also want to read  in the FAQ's  »  How to Kick-Start a Royal Enfield.  Kevin has considerable experience in starting many different REs.
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dewjantim

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Reply #19 on: November 05, 2007, 09:44:52 pm
A real he-man is supposed to be able to start the bull with his hand.....I can't....Dew.
If it hurts, you're not dead yet!!!!!


Foggy_Auggie

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Reply #20 on: November 06, 2007, 12:50:05 am
A real he-man is supposed to be able to start the bull with his hand.....I can't....Dew.

That just changes which bones get snapped! ;D

Regards, Foggy
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RagMan

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Reply #21 on: November 06, 2007, 03:20:25 am
I will pass on trying to start it with my hand. 
aka Indiana Bulleteer.
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Kiwichick

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Reply #22 on: November 08, 2007, 05:21:00 am
Well thanks all.  Between your advice and the FAQ, I can now report successfully kickstarting the bike every time when hot (haven't tried yet when stalled at the lights, though) and once when cold.

Now I've got the feel, feels like I've been doing it all my life!
Biddy
« Last Edit: December 07, 2007, 07:17:47 am by Kiwichick »


indian48

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Reply #23 on: November 08, 2007, 06:33:27 am
Why would you be stalling at the lights? I have had no problem with idling at zero throttle with my new bike in the 300kms I have done, once it has reached operating temp in about 5 minute riding. That said, I don't think I would try the KS at the lights in India, in traffic, with a huge number of folks crowding you from behind! Or maybe I should say that unless I start kickstarting at those times, I can't claim to have learnt it fully,,,,
Hows the rains?!
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scoTTy

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Reply #24 on: November 10, 2007, 01:50:04 am
Quote
Why would you be stalling at the lights?


  hmmm ..........just happens every once and a while... daydreaming... people watching as they look out the corner of their eyes .. and I'm on the EnField.. small goggles , leather flight helmet,,

  cigar in my mouth

staring  ;D
« Last Edit: November 10, 2007, 02:18:13 am by scotty »


RagMan

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Reply #25 on: November 10, 2007, 02:53:09 am
In the USA, there are gremlins at traffic lights. They sit in wait, looking for the unwary, and then, just as the light goes green, they yank the plug lead.
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scoTTy

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Reply #26 on: November 10, 2007, 02:56:21 am
that's true.. I saw that happen in front of me :o


Kiwichick

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Reply #27 on: November 10, 2007, 02:57:00 am
I like this idea of regular filling to avoid having the fuel cut out before I switch to reserve.  One of the joys (or perhaps the only one) of metric - I'll fill up every 250, 500, 750, 000  etc. and no notebook needed to remind me.                Good tip.

It has finally stopped spring-time raining down in the semi tropical north of NZ.  So up with the larks this morning, riding around the volcanic cones and bays that is Auckland.  Beautiful, and the bike behaved admirably.  And another cold kickstart under my belt!

Thanks for the advice, all
Biddy


scoTTy

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Reply #28 on: November 10, 2007, 03:04:29 am
thanks for the update.. a  beautiful morning  for you   as you said ;D..


indian48

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Reply #29 on: November 10, 2007, 09:28:03 am
way to go with the kickstarts,,,,mine are still hit and miss when cold, and I must say that I give up after a few attempts and revert to the thumb. Bike is running well so far, I must say, and none of the local gremlins have come out of hiding yet. And thanks for the neat and simple way to keep track of the fuelling, I think I will do just that too.
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deejay

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Reply #30 on: November 10, 2007, 02:59:34 pm
You just jinxed yourself, kiwichick... my bike was starting 1st kick cold for about a week, until I mentioned it on the forum. Now its a 3 kick bike. Oh well.... as long as it starts! ;D


Ofcalipka

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Reply #31 on: November 10, 2007, 03:52:26 pm
I don't know what you all are doing to break bones with kick starting.  I have always just given one smooth kick and she has started.  Hardly any effort at all in pushing the kick around.  As Tiny Tim mentioned when working on it I've been able to use my hand to start it with the kick.  Even the old P.O.S. Honda I used to ride would kickstart without ever kicking back and I always has to spray starting fluid in that engine until she warmed up to get her to run.  The only trouble I ever had kick starting was when I wear my boots with leather soles they tend to slip off the kick when wet.
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RagMan

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Reply #32 on: November 10, 2007, 04:50:46 pm
If the timing is out, the back can kick back.. violently. You have thus far, been lucky.
aka Indiana Bulleteer.
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faltnerc

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Reply #33 on: November 16, 2007, 06:41:57 pm
It is difficult to find the TDC in compression stroke at the Electra engine. Due to the electronic ignition the amp meter will not even make a move when reaching ignition point. If you have reached compression stroke you also cannot use the decompressor, because it is none, it is a valve lifter, but you cannot open the exhaust valve against valve spring pressure with this tiny little "lifter". You can only keep it open if it was opened, but then you cannot find the compression stroke because you can feel no resistance at the kickstart now.
So you do not need the amp meter and the "decompressor" to start your Electra:
The best way to start:
1)Kick until you feel strong resistance under your kick start lever.
(The sprag clutch will make a little noise like "krrchhh" when engine turns back a little)
2)Kick gently but resolutely against this resistance until you moved the lever a little down, but not too much.
You should have reached now the piston position shortly after TDC.
4) Now you can either press the electric start (The sprag clutch has time to catch the outside wheel and get in drive without great resistance) or let the kick start lever come up and give him a certain swinging kick.
After 10000 km with my Electra I have found out that these are the best methods to start it.
Kind regards
Christian


indian48

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Reply #34 on: November 17, 2007, 12:55:08 am
Thx Christian!
As a new rider,,,just done 500 kms,,,I am now able to kickstart the bike off the center stand, even when cold, but I find that it is indeed easier to move past TDC by using the decompressor lever. The next time out I will try doing this without that, because my one concern about the decompressor is it sticking in the open position.
But if you prime the bike right, it does start with one kick.
If anything is worth doing, it is worth doing well


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Reply #35 on: November 17, 2007, 01:25:43 am
Here's my Electra X routine:

Part one: Prime it, lube it, massage it, whatever you want to call it:
- Engage choke or enrichener as appropriate
- Rotate kick start lever until you hit compression (e.g., it STOPS)
- Apply pressure to the decomp lever as you carefully press/kick through the compression - stopping as soon as you feel it go over and the decomp lever also moves down
- Continuing to hold the decomp lever, kick through the engine 5 or 6 strokes (tickle the carb first - if you're running an Amal as I am)
- Release the decomp lever


Part two: Start it (AKA do it all over again)
- Rotate kick start lever until you hit compression
- Apply pressure to the decomp lever as you carefully kick/press through the compression - stopping as soon as you feel it go over and the decomp lever also moves down
- release decomp lever and allow kickstarter to come back up (tickle the carb again just to humor the bike)
- Take up slack in throttle cable - or even open it just a hair (if you're running an Amal)
- Kick that sucker through
- Repeat Part two as often as is necessary (usually 1-3 kicks do it for me. However, you have to at least *pretend* frustration - the engine can sense these things...)
- If the above does not work: curse and use E-starter 

Matt


indian48

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Reply #36 on: November 17, 2007, 03:02:29 am
Quote
- If the above does not work: curse and use E-starter 

I have to confess to having done this a few times as well!!
If anything is worth doing, it is worth doing well


SRL790

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Reply #37 on: December 08, 2007, 03:56:11 pm


Thought that some of you might find this excerpt from my Owner's Manual amusing.

When it says "repeat ... with a lttle more ignition advance" what they really mean is "don't give it too much ignition advance or it will blow your leg off".

If nothing else it provides a very good demonstration of the effect of incorrect ignition timing on kickstarting.

Always kick with the ball of your foot, not the instep.  It may save you a broken ankle one day (ask RagMan).

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RagMan

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Reply #38 on: December 08, 2007, 10:11:52 pm
Yes... Kickstarting can break your ankle - broke four bones in my foot in the summer - now better, but too cold, slick and snowy to ride.
aka Indiana Bulleteer.
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chris-bartlett

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Reply #39 on: August 12, 2008, 02:57:58 pm
I had the worst time trying to kick start my 500 Bullet Classic for the first two weeks. Thanks to this forum, I now follow this method and it's so easy to start from cold on the first or second kick. I can do it sitting down without putting any weight on the lever!

- Kill switch = on
- fuel = on
- press and hold decompression
- gently kick through 3 times
- ignition = on
- gently move kick starter until amp meter aligns to center
- release decompression
- kick to start



« Last Edit: August 19, 2008, 07:46:19 pm by chris-bartlett »


Jon

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Reply #40 on: August 12, 2008, 09:31:47 pm
Wear decent boots, mx boots or something industrial this will protect your foot
if the beast does kick back and will also show the bike that you mean business


ace.cafe

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Reply #41 on: August 13, 2008, 12:48:34 am
I don't even use the decompressor at all.
I
I just push the lever with my foot until I feel it getting compression, and just gently nudge it over TDC, and then give it a good kick.

As long as i have the rfuel tap on, and the igniton turned on, then it usualy fires right up on the 1st or 2nd try.
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scoTTy

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Reply #42 on: August 13, 2008, 04:03:33 am
i broke my thumb last night ;) :D


calman28556

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Reply #43 on: August 13, 2008, 08:46:37 pm
I do the kickstart about once a week just to say it works.  Otherwise I kickstart the ignition swtich.
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Sag Harbor~Bullet

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Reply #44 on: August 13, 2008, 11:57:56 pm
I founds this somewhere in the forum a while back...

Works every time...


 How to Kick-Start a Royal Enfield
« on: November 01, 2007, 11:43:21 PM »
   
Starting the Royal Enfield Motorcycle

1.Make certain that the "kill" switch is in the "on" or "run" position. This switch is located by the throttle, on the right side of the bike.

2.Turn the fuel tap to the "on position". Make sure that there is plenty of fuel in the tank. When the arm of the fuel tap is pointing toward the ground it is on. When it is horizontal it is in the "off" position. When the arm points upward it is in the "reserve" position.

3. If the engine is cold, push down on the gold colored choke lever. It is located on the right side of the bike about where your knee is.

4. Engage the compression release. This is the lever on the underside of the left hand handlebar switches. It is engaged by pushing it forward.

5. With the compression release engaged, kick the bike through 3 times. This "primes" the engine.

6. Turn the ignition switch on by turning the key to the right.

7. With the switch turned on, choke on, the throttle closed, and the compression release engaged, gently move the kick start lever and note the movement of the ammeter gauge. It will deflect to the left and then come back to the center. As you slowly turn the engine over, watch for the ammeter to deflect to the left. Now move it a little more until it just comes back to the middle. This middle position means that the piston is poised exactly where it should be for starting.

8. Now the moment of truth. Release the compression release lever and kick the bike through. When kicking, strength is not the key. A small woman can start the bike with the correct technique. The key is a long kick with good follow through. Kick it until the top of your shoe hits the foot peg. 9 times out of 10,the bike will start in the last 3" of movement.

9. If the engine is hot from being very recently run, you can omit steps 3, 4, and,5 .

10. If the bike doesn't start, repeat steps 7 and 8. (If bike is "hot" do not use the choke, if it is just "warm " you may need it) You MUST position the piston properly through the use of the ammeter. A natural inclination (especially if people are watching you) is to start kicking blindly without using steps 7 and 8. This is a route to total frustration and a complete loss of your manhood.( or womanhood ).

If the bike doesn't start after 3-4 kicks
I use a rule of 4, that is, if it doesn't start after four kicks, (adhering tightly to the steps above) then do something different. If it doesn't start in four kicks, then put the choke in the "off" or up position and try another 4 kicks. If that doesn't work, open the throttle all the way, choke on, and try it. Then if it still doesn't start, try throttle full open, choke off. This usually does it.
.
2007 Bullet Deluxe


Tiny Tim

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Reply #45 on: August 14, 2008, 10:26:43 am
Note to all:

The ammeter trick does not work with electronic ignitions on Electras.

REgards

TT
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Kiwichick

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Reply #46 on: August 19, 2008, 07:36:58 pm
Amazing, to think I wrote that initial email, asking how to kickstart - now it is second nature to me!  The only time I use the electric start is - yep, like others of you, when I stall at lights!

I remember the problem with the kickstarting - everyone told me to slowly kick down until I reached compression, then nudge her through, either with or without decomp lever.  But what did 'compresison' feel like?  The whole damned stroke felt lumpy and stiff to me.  It seemed like there were at least two spots in the cycle that felt stiff - how could I know which was the decompression one?

But it didn't take long to just get the feel of her, to see that I can't nudge her through the stiff decompression spot the way I can through the other stiff spot (the exhaust stroke, I guess).  Now the rest of the kick stroke feels very smooth and clean, I can't really understand how it wasn't immediately obvious to me before!

And I almost never have to kick more then once.  If she doesn't start first time, I just put the side stand up and try again!!

Mind you, I almost only kick start her form the centre stand.  I dream of sitting astride her and starting her up - I did it once, and it felt mighy fine - but risky!


Cheers from very rainy and chilly New Zealnd
Biddy


Chuck D

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Reply #47 on: August 19, 2008, 10:17:36 pm
Amazing, to think I wrote that initial email, asking how to kickstart - now it is second nature to me!  The only time I use the electric start is - yep, like others of you, when I stall at lights!

I remember the problem with the kickstarting - everyone told me to slowly kick down until I reached compression, then nudge her through, either with or without decomp lever.  But what did 'compresison' feel like?  The whole damned stroke felt lumpy and stiff to me.  It seemed like there were at least two spots in the cycle that felt stiff - how could I know which was the decompression one?

But it didn't take long to just get the feel of her, to see that I can't nudge her through the stiff decompression spot the way I can through the other stiff spot (the exhaust stroke, I guess).  Now the rest of the kick stroke feels very smooth and clean, I can't really understand how it wasn't immediately obvious to me before!

And I almost never have to kick more then once.  If she doesn't start first time, I just put the side stand up and try again!!

Mind you, I almost only kick start her form the centre stand.  I dream of sitting astride her and starting her up - I did it once, and it felt mighy fine - but risky!


Cheers from very rainy and chilly New Zealnd
Biddy

Yeah, It's funny how it all seems second nature NOW, but 4000 thousand miles and 4 and a half months ago it was anything but for me too. Once the kickstart lever even fell off while I was uselessly flailing away at it as if to put an exclamation point on how stupid I felt. But "B Fee" is a patient lover and she nursed me along in my awkward adolescence. I remember Foggy once remarking on how at around 2000 miles all of the new bike weirdness starts falling away; how it becomes a different bike from the one you started with. Very true. But it's hard to tell how much of it is the bike coming to meet me or vice versa.  Cheers from hot and humid Brooklyn.  Chuck.
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Chuck D

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Reply #48 on: August 19, 2008, 10:19:27 pm
And I still haven't figured out how this " insert quote" thing works. >:(
Ace "Fireball"#10 (Beefy the Bullet to her friends.)
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PhilJ

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Reply #49 on: August 20, 2008, 12:41:25 am
And I still haven't figured out how this " insert quote" thing works. >:(

Above you quoted sentence the is the first quote. When your quoted sentence ends, on the line just under it is the end quote. Go down about two lines and start your reply.
Now if this just works for me!! ;)



fun2drum

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Reply #50 on: August 23, 2008, 12:34:04 pm
When I first bought mine it had a bad electric start relay.  My dealer told me about it before I bought it and fixed it in a few days, but until then if I wanted to ride I had to learn to kick it.   I'm convinced I would never have learned to kick start the thing if I hadn't been without the elecric start in the beginning  :-[
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Thumper

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Reply #51 on: August 23, 2008, 03:54:53 pm
And sometimes we like to put the quotes right in the middle...

And I still haven't figured out how this " insert quote" thing works. >:(


...like this!


Tassos

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Reply #52 on: August 28, 2008, 11:11:20 am
Somehow I need more help....

When I step on the kickstart, it's really hard, I have to put my whole weight on it to get it to move half-way, after this difficult first stage it's really easy...

on the other hand at some point i just stepped on it without any pressure and it did work like a dream...

????


fun2drum

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Reply #53 on: August 28, 2008, 12:23:20 pm
Somehow I need more help....

When I step on the kickstart, it's really hard, I have to put my whole weight on it to get it to move half-way, after this difficult first stage it's really easy...

on the other hand at some point i just stepped on it without any pressure and it did work like a dream...

????

Try this... it works for me EVERY time...

Don't forget to turn on the key, pull out the choke, and make sure the side kick stand isn't  down.  That side kick stand embarrassed me to death in front of a bunch of people because I left it down and tried to show them how easily it starts.  :-[
 
Anyway,
That initial hard-to-move-the-kickstart stage is easily remedied by just holding down the decomp button while releasing the kick lever and slowly but firmly kicking down again.  That second time will release the compression and let you follow through.  Once you're able to follow through with a SLOW kick, then, without releasing the decomp button, follow through with 2 more SLOW kicks.  Don't release the decomp button until you've allowed the kick lever to return fully upright.  Now it's ready to kick.  Once you've released the decomp button, give a solid kick that follows through completely. 

The bike should start easily without any kickback. 
The Family Fleet:
2008 Royal Enfield Electra
2002 Buell Blast
1973 Volkswagen Karmann Ghia Convertible
...and a couple of boring and more practicle family vehicles that I won't mention here.


Karl Fenn

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Reply #54 on: February 28, 2021, 12:54:43 am
You really need accurate TDC to get this right, accurate TDC is also essential to the running of the engine and engine stresses.


Adrian II

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Reply #55 on: February 28, 2021, 12:09:24 pm
Karl, did you notice the previous post on the thread was exactly twelve and a half years ago?  That's 1/8 of a century. ;D

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Bullet Whisperer

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Reply #56 on: February 28, 2021, 03:10:00 pm
Oh well, I hadn't made this video twelve and a half years ago, so here you go  ;)
 B.W.
 https://youtu.be/axOs4qRkob8