Author Topic: Catch can and breather system  (Read 361 times)

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Willbrunei

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on: March 20, 2021, 03:59:02 pm
I was looking at my breather and catch can system today. It’s not pretty. I have the 2007 es 500 engine with 2 black hoses coming off the top of the crankcase to a can that vents to the r hand toolbox where the air filter used to be.

Taking the lid partially off the an sowed about a quarter full of white goop.

Questions:
1. How do I clean this system - pipes and can?
2. Can I junk it completely and revert to one breather with a duckbill over the chain and blank off the return port?
3. If 2 is yes then what do I seal it with?

Looking forward to replies from you guys as I am sure this has been sorted many times in the past.

Thanks
Will
So far I have: removed electric start, removed panniers and crash bars, fitted Lycette seat and short silencer, rejetted carb, fitted pancake filter, rebuilt kickstart mechanism, replaced snapped clutch cable, fitted Lucas stop light, fixed headlight short ....


ace.cafe

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Reply #1 on: March 20, 2021, 04:28:49 pm
Yes, you can convert it to a duckbill.
It's not as effective as the old breather style off the crankcase but it will still work.
Run the hose from the top of the oil tank up high under the seat area, and then route it back down to where you want the outlet. It burps less oil out that way.
Cap off all the other hose nipples.
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AzCal Retred

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Reply #2 on: March 20, 2021, 04:42:16 pm
It's kak - toss it. Do as you thought and run a tube from the port to the chain.

A check valve is a worthwhile addition. The duckbill rubber is the same Indian pre-rotted kak as the intake manifold rubber, good for maybe 3 months out of the box. Walmart has a $8 check valve that works just fine. Probably a PCV valve from the auto supply would be better and more accessible to you.

I think that white foam is more from H2O in the combustion gasses leaking past the rings. Re-ringing with cast iron would give you an excuse to visit the head gasket leak. Order two sets in case you break a ring on installation. Use lots of rags to block debris from finding it's way into the crankcase.

If you aren't tight on funds I'd recommend H's alloy barrel & fitted piston, 500 or 535 with the 8.5/1 forged slug. Bullet Whisper says the stock bottom ends seem to hold up fine if you aren't abusive. The forged pistons use steel rings, so outlast the cast versions by considerable margin. My engine now makes hardly any white foam with the new forge slug I installed, and the metallurgy is way better. No more concern about the skirt popping off and dropping into the crankcase.

A brace of 1999 Bullets: 1 Red Deluxe, 1 Green Standard. Also, 1 wee orphan 1956 Fire Arrow project.


Adrian II

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Reply #3 on: March 20, 2021, 08:25:39 pm
...or the crown lifting off and lunching the valves.

A.
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Bilgemaster

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Reply #4 on: March 20, 2021, 09:30:03 pm
I concur with what everyone else has already said (and AZCal Retred's advice about a better piston and maybe an alloy barrel is some I also plan to follow down the road a bit). As for that breather catch can rigamarole, you'll definitely want to pull that off and punt it into the neighbor's hedges sooner rather than later. One alarming byproduct of cloggery in those tubes can be a sudden and unremitting sploodging in real bukkake-nightmare style of ALL of the contents of one's oil tank, glorping out without warning if that return tube to the oil tank gets blocked with what they call "Nivea Syndome" over on the German Forum. My own resolution of that Syndrome on my Bullet twin of yours is found here: https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=25940.msg298895#msg298895. You needn't worry about getting that specific KrankVent knockoff I describe. Most any PCV or check valve will handily do the job. Just place that valve high up, like under the saddle somewhere, and try to make the hose run to it as steeply as possible right from the crankcase outlet (located on inner side of the timing case in our later model cases) to allow for back drainage and minimize fouling of the vent.

It shouldn't take long to sort it out. And rest assured that the plasticky wine cork that I described using from some "amusing and precocious" convenience store White Trashfindel to blank off the oil tank return port along with a hose clamp is still doing fine and dandy years later. So, there's no need to spring for a heartier or pricier Merlot.
« Last Edit: March 20, 2021, 09:34:28 pm by Bilgemaster »
So badass my Enfield's actually illegal  in India.

(Legal enough to pass muster if they don't look too closely in Woodbridge, Virginia, where the buses don't run at night, holidays or weekends and I'm a contender for 'Village Idiot')


Willbrunei

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Reply #5 on: March 21, 2021, 12:55:54 am
Thanks guys.
Bilgemaster. Brunei is officially dry.
No booze.
We get some wine from our “milkman” but is generally screw top!!

Any ideas on an alternative “cap”for the spigot?

So far I have: removed electric start, removed panniers and crash bars, fitted Lycette seat and short silencer, rejetted carb, fitted pancake filter, rebuilt kickstart mechanism, replaced snapped clutch cable, fitted Lucas stop light, fixed headlight short ....


ace.cafe

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Reply #6 on: March 21, 2021, 02:03:08 am
Thanks guys.
Bilgemaster. Brunei is officially dry.
No booze.
We get some wine from our “milkman” but is generally screw top!!

Any ideas on an alternative “cap”for the spigot?
You can use a rubber cap that is normally used for vacuum nipple blanking, or you could just cut a short piece of appropriate sized fuel hose and stuff a bolt in the end to seal it off.
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Bilgemaster

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Reply #7 on: March 21, 2021, 05:35:09 am
Thanks guys.
Bilgemaster. Brunei is officially dry.
No booze.
We get some wine from our “milkman” but is generally screw top!!

Any ideas on an alternative “cap”for the spigot?

Yes, I'm just having you on. It's just the liquor talking. Seriously though, a good sized hypodermic syringe softened with a lighter, pressed to shape with a spoon and held in place with some surgical tubing, all pretty standard fixer gear, should suffice. Barring that or a classy Embassy soirée where you can dig deeply and implausibly into the bins by the bar in your tux, any rubbery bit drilled to fit should do the trick, or even a suitable screw with a soft washer driven into the oil tank inlet should suffice. It's just a return drain with little or no back pressure. You just need to keep stuff out like those tiny rain forest snakes that like to curl up in people's nose hairs during Monsoon Season until they're big enough to take up residence in a nice warm exhaust.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2021, 05:45:16 am by Bilgemaster »
So badass my Enfield's actually illegal  in India.

(Legal enough to pass muster if they don't look too closely in Woodbridge, Virginia, where the buses don't run at night, holidays or weekends and I'm a contender for 'Village Idiot')


Adrian II

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Reply #8 on: March 21, 2021, 10:33:25 am
The spigot for the oil return in the timing chest can be tapped out from inside, plug the hole with whatever suitable faster (M8? M10? can't remember) is to hand and a good wipe of gasket goo.

A.
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Adrian II

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Reply #9 on: March 21, 2021, 02:52:53 pm
Whoa, belay that!

Here's the oil return spigot:



You tap it back INTO to timing chest to remove it, you might want the timing cover off to fish the thing out from the timing gears.

The middle section is 10mm in diameter and is a light interference fit in the ally casting, so something like a M10 Allen screw with a bit of plain shank under the head and a nyloc nut would blank it off nicely, not forgetting the smear of gasket goo. The diameter for the inside end where the duck bill valve sits is 12mm.

Right, that's enough excitement.

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


Bilgemaster

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Reply #10 on: March 21, 2021, 07:14:19 pm
Seriously...ANY piece of rubbery stuff...an unfortunately tiny prophylactic...some of your local tree sap vulcanized with a lighter..If you can train one of those little snakes with a dropperful of sesame oil to lock jaws...whatever.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2021, 08:23:47 pm by Bilgemaster »
So badass my Enfield's actually illegal  in India.

(Legal enough to pass muster if they don't look too closely in Woodbridge, Virginia, where the buses don't run at night, holidays or weekends and I'm a contender for 'Village Idiot')


Willbrunei

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Reply #11 on: March 23, 2021, 07:12:51 am
Haha - some great and unusual ideas.

Look what I found at the back of the drawer- ah the heady days when we had a choice of 3 different illegally smuggled wines instead  of one Aussie rot gut.
So far I have: removed electric start, removed panniers and crash bars, fitted Lycette seat and short silencer, rejetted carb, fitted pancake filter, rebuilt kickstart mechanism, replaced snapped clutch cable, fitted Lucas stop light, fixed headlight short ....


Mr.Sheen

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Reply #12 on: March 26, 2021, 03:27:43 am
Here is a pic of my oil can system , and I can confirm. You need something like this.


Willbrunei

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Reply #13 on: March 26, 2021, 03:54:27 pm
Seriously though, a good sized hypodermic syringe softened with a lighter, pressed to shape with a spoon and held in place with some surgical tubing, all pretty standard fixer gear, should suffice.
[/quote]

@Bilgemaster: I haven’t fixed anything like that for many a year 😂
So far I have: removed electric start, removed panniers and crash bars, fitted Lycette seat and short silencer, rejetted carb, fitted pancake filter, rebuilt kickstart mechanism, replaced snapped clutch cable, fitted Lucas stop light, fixed headlight short ....


Paul W

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Reply #14 on: March 26, 2021, 04:32:23 pm
Times move on....tie wrap everything in sight. 🔧 👌
Paul W.