Author Topic: Engine tune-up or congenital failure  (Read 682 times)

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pmperez2014

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on: March 12, 2021, 11:25:33 pm
Good evening friends, I want to consult my engine tune-up problem, I can't get a stable idle, there are ups and downs in the RPM and it ends up turning off, after riding for half an hour and with the engine relatively warm stop failing. It is noticeable with less reaction when operating the accelerator, it works like drowning, you hear back-explosions and it wants to stop, you notice a heavy operation, it is difficult to pick up speed, it takes time to reach 100 km / h. I have regulated the TPS voltage at 0.58 V and touched the air screw a bit. I have to do the work because in my city there is no suitable workshop for this setting. I wonder how the ECU is resetting, what sensor or what else may be failing. Should I check the throttle cable adjustment? Is the TPS sensor damaged? or the MAP? I'm really tired and thinking of selling it, because my experience with this bike was not good from day one. I think the problem is in the air and fuel proportions of the mixture (the spark plug is a bit carbonized), but I do not know the procedure to achieve the correct setting. In advance, I greatly appreciate any help that can end this problem.


oldphart

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Reply #1 on: March 12, 2021, 11:40:51 pm
It might help to know:
EFI or carby?
How many kms?

I can't help with your issues but I would suggest you try a new plug, the Bosch that comes from the factory is pretty crap and maybe it's breaking down.
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pmperez2014

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Reply #2 on: March 13, 2021, 11:30:57 am
It is EFI (BS4, year 2020), 3500 km. It has a new spark plug (NGK CR8E, 0.8mm).
According to the service manual, my motorcycle exhibits erratic idling and engine misfiring at low rpm and gives three groups of possible causes:
1.Related to Ignition
2.Related to fuel / induction
3. Related to compression

Which of the three options should I start to look at? Thanks


tooseevee

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Reply #3 on: March 13, 2021, 11:48:02 am
It might help to know:
EFI or carby?
How many kms?

I can't help with your issues but I would suggest you try a new plug, the Bosch that comes from the factory is pretty crap and maybe it's breaking down.

        He says it has 3,500 kms and that he has put in an NGK. I'll bet it's a bad pin or something in one of those hundred electrical connectors these new bikes have.
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Richard230

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Reply #4 on: March 13, 2021, 01:58:20 pm
        He says it has 3,500 kms and that he has put in an NGK. I'll bet it's a bad pin or something in one of those hundred electrical connectors these new bikes have.

That happened to my 2014 Zero electric motorcycle. When it was new one of the battery modules was not being recognized by the bike's computer. The dealer couldn't find the problem so they brought in a factory technician and he discovered that one of the multi-pin connectors had a pin bent when it was jammed together at the factory. He straightened out the pin of the connector, reconnected the wires and the bike ran fine after that.
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pmperez2014

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Reply #5 on: March 14, 2021, 12:15:06 am
Thanks for sharing your experiences, I'm still looking for the cause of the problem.

Today I found out that the air filter box cover does not have the rubber seal on the inner side, can this affect the combustion?


viczena

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Reply #6 on: March 14, 2021, 12:35:37 am
Sounds like false air is coming into the manifold. Check all screws and seals.
Try brake cleaner on the manifold. If the rpm advances you have a leak.
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zimmemr

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Reply #7 on: March 14, 2021, 03:30:13 pm
If you had a sensor failure I'd think you'd also have a check engine :MIL light on. Since that isn't the case I'd discount any sensor issues, at least for the time being. A bad airbox leak might cause the problem, as Viczen suggests you may have an intake tract air leak.

You may also have a clogged fuel filter/fuel pump, which is a known problem with the Himalayans and easy enough to check so if resealing your airbox doesn't fix it, that'd be my first stop.

That being said since the problem becomes worse as the engine heats up I'd also take a look at the valves before going too much further. A tight valve will certainly cause the symptoms you describe and will get progressively worse as the engine heats up. A bad coil will also act much the same way as will bad grounds or poor connections. So it's always a good idea to check all the connections in the ignition and power circuits. You may also want to check the coil if possible, most  decent motorcycle shops whether they sell RE's or not should have a proper coil testing device. Another thing that will cause your issue is a bad sparkplug cap, I'd replace the stock with and NGK out of hand.

There have also been some issues with failing main power relays. That problem seems to be confined to Interceptors but it's something else that should be checked. Remove the relays, clean the grease from their pins and reinstall or replace them.

 I'd also caution you not to jump to any conclusions, a dirty plug indicates something amiss in the combustion process, but that doesn't necessarily mean that the AF ratio is off, it just means the mix isn't burning properly, which could be caused by anything from  ignition issues to a clogged air filter to failing fuel pump.

Lastly if all else fails perform a compression check, it's a long shot but your engine may have suffered some mechanical damage.


kiwistopher

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Reply #8 on: March 15, 2021, 09:49:00 am
Thanks, I'll change my plug.


pmperez2014

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Reply #9 on: March 17, 2021, 12:52:29 am
Thank you zimmemr  very much for all the explanation, it helps me a lot.
In fact I'm going to focus on the first cause you mention: the air leak in the airbox.
I tried increasing the air with the golden screw and the bike idle about 2000 rpm or more and no stop, but there I hear a slight blast of air in the area of the throttle body, so I think I have to look for a possible air leak.
I'm going to see that and then comment on what happens. Saludos


Bilgemaster

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Reply #10 on: March 17, 2021, 06:05:53 am
Sounds like false air is coming into the manifold. Check all screws and seals.
Try brake cleaner on the manifold. If the rpm advances you have a leak.

Based on the symptoms you described, I believe "viczena" described the likeliest cause: an air leak. Like he suggests, try shooting a little bit of spray brake cleaner, carb cleaner, starter fluid or even WD-40 around the intake manifold. If the rpm increases, you've found the leak.
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pmperez2014

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Reply #11 on: March 17, 2021, 01:09:55 pm
Ok, I'm doing that test today. Thank you


pmperez2014

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Reply #12 on: March 18, 2021, 11:15:51 pm
The air leak seems to be confirmed.
I hear a hum in the TPS area, when spraying there with body throttle cleaner, the rpm increases for a few seconds and then the engine shuts down. My next step was to check the valve regulation, is it worth doing or do I focus first on fixing the leak?


viczena

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Reply #13 on: March 18, 2021, 11:37:04 pm
Fix the leak.
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AzCal Retred

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Reply #14 on: March 20, 2021, 01:41:55 am
 "  I'm really tired and thinking of selling it, because my experience with this bike was not good from day one. I think the problem is in the air and fuel proportions of the mixture (the spark plug is a bit carbonized), but I do not know the procedure to achieve the correct setting. "

Before you give up and scrap a basically good machine, there is a plan "B" that doesn't involve becoming an EFI tech:

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/41381?ref_page=HimalayanPART No. 90058

CARBURETTOR CONVERSION KIT (Himalayan) ; £335.00

Carburettor conversion kit for the fuel injected Himalayan models. This kit includes all the components required to convert your Himalayan away from fuel injection to a CV carburettor.
All of the components are bolt on items, and it is a completely reversible modification. Supplied jetted to suit the standard Himalayan model.

H's has a PDF of their install instructions on the part page. Here's an excerpt:
"The carburettor is supplied with a base setting for a standard Himalayan and will require fine tuning. The carburettor comes jetted to suit a standard Himalayan. As a base setting, turn the pilot air screw in fully, and then unscrew by 1 ½ to 2 full turns."
Pretty straightforward, just keep the fuel & air clean and it should work well for you.
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