Author Topic: Oil filter replacement; substitute?  (Read 937 times)

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50Wt Earl

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on: September 19, 2020, 02:20:32 am
The AVL takes #500613.  Is't there a alternative like WIX that I can get somewhere other than India???

Thanks
Faster than a speeding Bullet?  Well, it's faster than some mopeds in a school zone!


50Wt Earl

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Reply #1 on: September 19, 2020, 03:20:55 am
After 2 hours of research I have determined that the filter is sold only to RE and then their distributor.   I could not find a PL-7123 anywhere except a dealer. 
Faster than a speeding Bullet?  Well, it's faster than some mopeds in a school zone!


ace.cafe

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Reply #2 on: September 19, 2020, 11:06:55 pm
You can get a small universal spin-on filter kit and plumb it into the external oil pipe to the head. We have done that plenty of times. Works fine.
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50Wt Earl

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Reply #3 on: September 20, 2020, 01:36:29 am
External - Perfect !   The OEM filter is 25 micron.  Some available filters are 4 micron.  I want the 4 micron filter !

Now, where do I connect the lines?  I need to filter all the oil just as the original filter does.

Thanks
« Last Edit: September 20, 2020, 01:49:28 am by 50Wt Earl »
Faster than a speeding Bullet?  Well, it's faster than some mopeds in a school zone!


50Wt Earl

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Reply #4 on: September 20, 2020, 02:48:39 am
OK after careful study, I see how it's done.  Only problem is the oil is filtered on the feed to the rockers; not the feed to the crank.

Tanks
Faster than a speeding Bullet?  Well, it's faster than some mopeds in a school zone!


ace.cafe

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Reply #5 on: September 20, 2020, 03:43:45 am
OK after careful study, I see how it's done.  Only problem is the oil is filtered on the feed to the rockers; not the feed to the crank.

Tanks
Thats okay. It gets filtered.
You can still use the normal filter in its normal place too.
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Adrian II

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Reply #6 on: September 20, 2020, 05:31:49 pm
Where the AVL engine could really use a bit of help is with a decent sump magnet to protect the scavenge side oil pump.

A.
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tooseevee

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Reply #7 on: September 20, 2020, 06:17:44 pm
Where the AVL engine could really use a bit of help is with a decent sump magnet to protect the scavenge side oil pump.

A.

            How 'bout a small, round Alnico magnet J-B Welded to the plug?
'08 Black AVL Classic.ACEhead 9.8:1/manifold/canister. TM32/Open short bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades


Adrian II

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Reply #8 on: September 20, 2020, 10:43:14 pm
One of mine has the scavenge plug drilled and tapped for a ΒΌ" BSF set screw with a pair of 5mm diameter neodymium magnets on top.

Must see if they've picked anything up.

A.

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Enfield Pro

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Reply #9 on: October 30, 2020, 05:29:46 pm
Hi Earl,

Did you find a filter?
Tim
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AzCal Retred

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Reply #10 on: October 30, 2020, 06:21:37 pm
What would it take to get a pair of 1/4" pipe fittings In/Out of the filter housing? Then with a pair of short flex lines, a remote spin-on oil filter could be fitted to the front downtube area. Oil changes become a quick fill of the filter with new oil and screw it on. Is is a huge job to tap into the pressurized passage from the main oil pump? - ACR -
A brace of 1999 Bullets: 1 Red Deluxe, 1 Green Standard. Also, 1 wee orphan 1956 Fire Arrow project.


Morgan60

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Reply #11 on: November 02, 2020, 12:33:25 am
I just bought 20 genuine Royal Enfield filters for $46.44 with free expedited shipping from India. That comes to $2.322 for each filter with two O-rings for each filter.  Why would you want to look for a alternative filter?
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AzCal Retred

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Reply #12 on: November 02, 2020, 10:10:52 pm
Well...the oil-free start up period as the oil filter cavity slowly fills creeps me out, for one. A pre-filled Fram spin-on would have only the supply line tubing volume to fill before oil was again flowing to the big-end bushing. The idea that even the lowly Fram is probably a much better filter than the fuzzy gauze Enfield unit is another.

I've pre-oil soaked the OEM filter then speedily popped it into the housing, then manually kicked over the engine with either the spark plug out or holding the compression release until I saw oil appear at the quill bolt.

The most positive way is to pull off the timing cover, fill the oil filter cavity, reassemble the filter kluge, pop the timing cover back on and again kick until pressurized oil shows up at the quill. But many say that R&Ring the timing cover very often isn't a good thing, so...?

Anyway, it was just a question to see if anyone had tried it; might save time "rediscovering the wheel" as it were if someone had and was willing to share the experience. I don't care if I spend $2.322 or $10 per filter, my main concern is not to frag my hobby toy by avoidable accident. My Bullets live on 15W50 Mobile-1 with a generous dollop of Lucas TB-Zinc+, not money saving reprocessed $0.89/Qt./40W "Raylube" (available at Whiting Brothers!) & then fine-tuning final viscosity with motor honey. 

Unless I find a better way, the filter pre-saturation/kick-till-you-see-flow-at-the-quill will probably be the norm. Although, if a guy created a vent port on top of the oil filter housing.....?  ;D  - ACR -
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Karl Fenn

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Reply #13 on: February 24, 2021, 02:32:20 pm
I can't understand why RE filters are so expensive there are plenty of bikes out there on the second hand market and new for that matter.


Adrian II

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Reply #14 on: February 24, 2021, 09:00:36 pm
Part # 500613 is the same part as the EFI/UCE Bullets use.

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...