Author Topic: New Himalayan for me  (Read 1981 times)

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sw-nsw

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on: July 10, 2020, 12:30:01 am
After the 500 build was finished, i decided to try a Himalayan for commuting and for day trips.
Some mods have to be done for sure:
Exhaust
Lifepo4 battery
Reposition headlight
New taillight and blinkers
Maybe lightweight aluminium wheels with 18” rear
Some of the mods are done now


oldphart

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Reply #1 on: July 10, 2020, 12:57:42 am
Interesting. With the look you seem to be going for, I'd remove the upper mudguard (it's only four bolts)

Nice bit of Doof Doof from that exhaust?
Grandpa Slow

2019 Himalayan.


sw-nsw

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Reply #2 on: July 11, 2020, 03:22:14 am
yes, the exhaust is really good, nice sound, not to loud, just perfect.
i removed the lower guard ;-)


gizzo

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Reply #3 on: July 12, 2020, 09:49:32 am
If it turns out like your bullet, it'll be good!  8)
simon from south Australia
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Bilgemaster

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Reply #4 on: July 26, 2020, 11:35:31 pm
Looking sleek. I've always kind of like the idea of those tankside guards for someone like me, likely to find myself sideways in a ditch, but yours is looking tip-top. Carry on!
So badass my Enfield's actually illegal  in India.

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sw-nsw

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Reply #5 on: August 17, 2020, 04:00:02 am
Fitted a new 1.85 21 front wheel. I saved 4.2kg of unsprung rotating mass. Fuckin hell what a difference 😂. Its a new bike, now i have to fit the rear 2.15 18. For this a need a new front sprocket with 16 t in a 520 pitch. Doesnt make sense to use the shitty indian chain anymore.


sw-nsw

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Reply #6 on: August 17, 2020, 04:09:24 am
Here some pics


Solera

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Reply #7 on: August 17, 2020, 09:28:22 am
Looking good.
Is that a warp 9 hub as well?.
I was thinking of doing the same but with the RE hub and excel rims. As I have ABS and haven't seen a non RE hub that could take the sensor ring. Plus I wanted to try and use tubeless tyres. From what I found there would not have been a large weight saving as tubeless tyres are usually heavier. Still with that weight saving it might be worth another look.


Toni59

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Reply #8 on: August 17, 2020, 05:56:29 pm
Looks awesome!!!

4,2 kg weight saving with the new front wheel???
That sounds incredible - will the new one be as durable as the genuine one?

What were the costs for the new front wheel overall?

Regards
Toni


sw-nsw

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Reply #9 on: September 17, 2020, 09:35:01 pm
Some new stuff
Built a classic front fender in aluminium, and replaced the headlight with something classic
« Last Edit: September 17, 2020, 09:38:24 pm by sw-nsw »


AzCal Retred

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Reply #10 on: September 18, 2020, 02:11:49 am
In our desert days we used the "air spring" concept to good effect. It involves tapping the fork top plugs for a Schrader valve, then adding an "air cap" static charge to effectively boost the spring rate. In some cases the air WAS the spring, but you need a lot of faith in your fork seals for that. The oil volume inside the tube determines compression rate. As they compress, the volume decreases, the air-spring pressure goes up dramatically. This can be used as an "anti-bottoming aid". Understandably the oil volumes of the forks need to be determined, as well as the C.R., but you can easily do this with a "Ratio-Rite" graduated cup and a quart of ATF.

While the forks are off, and hopefully apart, you could tap a 4mm screw hole in the slider bottom to facilitate fork oil changes. A red fiber washer is adequate for sealing. Whilst running air assist, any fork seal leaks become readily apparent.

The advantages to air assist is that lighter springs can be used, then the spring-rate fine tuned through the air cap pressure. Internal C.R. can be set up to avoid bottoming. The only adverse effect I ever heard of was one hero managed to pop out the fork seals over a jump because he didn't use the snap ring to retain them. Using no springs leaves you at the mercy of your seal integrity, but reduces the unsprung weight, increasing suspension compliance.

The main drawback to air assisted springs was temperature related. The air spring "rate" changes with pressure, and if the forks were working really hard off road they would tend to stiffen up a bit as they heated up. For street & trail use, I doubt that would become a concern.   - ACR -
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oldphart

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Reply #11 on: September 18, 2020, 09:11:46 am
Good work with the mudguard.

Does anyone know why they went with the dual guard rather than the single high guard? Maybe to improve cooling to the engine?
Grandpa Slow

2019 Himalayan.


sw-nsw

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Reply #12 on: September 18, 2020, 12:02:14 pm
New rear guard and taillight in progress
« Last Edit: September 18, 2020, 12:04:21 pm by sw-nsw »


Richard230

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Reply #13 on: September 18, 2020, 01:53:44 pm
Good work with the mudguard.

Does anyone know why they went with the dual guard rather than the single high guard? Maybe to improve cooling to the engine?

I think it is a styling-thing that BMW invented on their early GS models.  Now if you want to make a dual-purpose motorcycle it seems as though you need to install two front fenders to get the idea across.   ::)
2011 Royal Enfield B5 500, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM Duke 390, 2002 Yamaha FZ1


oldphart

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Reply #14 on: September 19, 2020, 03:18:12 am
I think it is a styling-thing that BMW invented on their early GS models.  Now if you want to make a dual-purpose motorcycle it seems as though you need to install two front fenders to get the idea across.   ::)
I was scared that might be the reason.
Grandpa Slow

2019 Himalayan.