Author Topic: drain somewhere in the 'main fuse' circuit  (Read 265 times)

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alladinko

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on: June 26, 2020, 04:12:56 pm
followed steps in singh5g video about searching for a battery drain.

hooked it up to battery, got to see 0.22 drain and started to pull out fuses, as in his video, to narrow down the circuit... it wasn't the lights, the blinkers, the ecu - taking out all those fuses still showed the drain 0.22. but it went to 0 after i pulled the main fuse out... the little description below the fuse says 'all loads' lol. so did i even narrow it down??? or because the other fuses from the lights, ecu, blinkers circuit didn't affect it - i can safely discount those as the drain is not there?

who can shed some light at this, where would you look, how to narrow it down even more. like unplug certain wires? which ones? i have no idea
2014 Royal Enfield Classic Military
1976 Kawasaki KZ 750
1977 Honda CB 550 SS


axman88

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Reply #1 on: June 27, 2020, 12:39:47 am
Get the schematic for your machine.  Trace the wiring, start disconnecting until you find the leakage.

Here's a schematic for a 2011 EFI:  http://reocarchive.byethost31.com/misc/EFI%20workshop%20chart.png

The wiring was relatively simple at that point in time, yours sounds different, I didn't see your model mentioned in your post.  Different models and years have different schematics.   

One thing that jumps out is that the rectifier / regulator is pretty far upstream.

A .22 (amps?) leakage is around 3 watts, which is about the power that an indicator lamp would draw.  Is this with the ignition switch OFF?




suitcasejefferson

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Reply #2 on: June 27, 2020, 02:02:07 pm
Go over the whole bike, including inside the headlight, and one at a time, start disconnecting things. To avoid a getting something put back wrong, reconnect each connection before disconnecting something else. Keep going until you find it. You might want to take a look at the bike in complete darkness first to see if any lights are on that you might miss in daylight. But it could also be a bad switch or connection that is only letting a tiny bit of current through, basically a minor "leak" through something that is designed to conduct a lot more current.
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alladinko

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Reply #3 on: June 29, 2020, 04:44:06 am
axman88, suitcasejefferson thanks guys for your time to throw some suggestions at me, i really appreaciate it. i didn't have time during the weekend, i will have some time to do this tmrw.

axman, my model is 2014 classic efi uce military. I think they could be the same with your 2011 but... with these bikes never sure :) thank you for your schematics. rectifier/regulator was bad... didnt' do anything to the bike when i was reving. alternator ok, doing 20-40V when idle-reving. i got my hands on super cheap used alternator from continental GT, but when i rev - it gives barely 13V. singh5g in his video slightly touches the throttle and his V jumps to 14.5V almost. I do really barely 13.1V and the engine must be reving like mad. ordered new regulator from india, coming this week. but that part i think would not solve the 0.22amps drain. unless it's really such a coincidence that the new regulator would solve everything.

i will do what you guys say - i think i will start at the headlight wire cluster mess with unplugging, going through the handlebar switches, LR and work my way towards back of the bike.

will update with more news but really appreciate your time and reply
2014 Royal Enfield Classic Military
1976 Kawasaki KZ 750
1977 Honda CB 550 SS


stefano_musica

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Reply #4 on: June 29, 2020, 09:04:47 am
The stator (alternator) is putting out 20 to 40V AC and you’re only getting 13V DC. I’d say it’s best to check the regulator/rectifier. Make sure your multimeter was set to AC when checking the stator output and set to DC when checking the Reg/Rec output.

As for checking current draws when the bike is off, you should set the multimeter to amperes (A) or milliamperes (mA) and your multimeter should be completing the circuit you’re testing so that the current draw actually runs through the multimeter.
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Haggis

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Reply #5 on: June 29, 2020, 12:28:52 pm
Unplug your regulator/rectifier (R/R) and see if your drain stops? R/R fail in a few different ways. Yours may have a faulty diode leaking to earth. A new R/R is the only answer. Dont buy cheap as they are cheap fo a reason.
Off route, recalculate?


alladinko

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Reply #6 on: July 01, 2020, 02:42:51 am
well well well... progress with one setback still unsolved that i described in different thread...

the new regulator from indian just arrived, it's in, there is no amper loss anymore. what remains same as before and i hope it would get fixed as well - my charging is 12.5V... when i rev it like crazy. who is aware of our member singh5g who has lot of 'how to' videos on youtube - when he revs his bike - he gets around 14.3V on the voltmeter. i get 12.5V hmmmmmmm. no bueno. i thought the new regulator will put the end to it. i think it's something between the regulator and battery, tmrw will try to find out somehow
2014 Royal Enfield Classic Military
1976 Kawasaki KZ 750
1977 Honda CB 550 SS


Haggis

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Reply #7 on: July 01, 2020, 05:35:53 pm
Check your alternator windings between any of the three yellow wires.
Check the Resistance between wires
a. Yellow 1 to yellow 2 - 0.8 to 1.5 ohms
b. Yellow 2 to yellow 3 - 0.8 to 1.5 ohms
c. Yellow 3 to yellow 1 - 0.8 to 1.5 ohms
Off route, recalculate?


alladinko

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Reply #8 on: July 06, 2020, 09:36:30 pm
i was in that range, 1.1-ish for each connection
2014 Royal Enfield Classic Military
1976 Kawasaki KZ 750
1977 Honda CB 550 SS


Haggis

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Reply #9 on: July 06, 2020, 11:38:35 pm
If your stator windings are measuring up ok then it's either down to your new regulator/rectifier  which controls the voltage or you have a bad battery that's sucking up all our volts.?
Off route, recalculate?