[KD5ITM]

It's time to replace the front brake pads on my GT. What are you guys replacing them with? I've been on the Brembo website but found that you cannot order new brake pads directly from the website.

Where are you guys in the US buying your replacement brake pads?

[Enfield Pro]

It's time to replace the front brake pads on my GT. What are you guys replacing them with? I've been on the Brembo website but found that you cannot order new brake pads directly from the website.

Where are you guys in the US buying your replacement brake pads?

I like EBC pads HH baby!  You can get them pretty much anywhere, some people here will have recommendations I'm sure. There will not be a R.E. reference in the fitment chart. I'll have to look it up, just the front?

[OLD FELLA]

I guess better late than never! EBC FA209/2HH (full sintered) or FA209/2V (semi sintered) and if you are interested, the rears are EBC FA213HH (full sintered) or FA213V (semi sintered)
The full sintered work great for all conditions but are a little hard on rotor wear - they are a good pad and great value for the price (not expensive and probably cheaper than toilet paper by now)

Cheers and stay safe folks (buy gold/silver if its still available)
Chris

[Guaire]

I like EBC pads HH baby!  You can get them pretty much anywhere, some people here will have recommendations I'm sure. There will not be a R.E. reference in the fitment chart. I'll have to look it up, just the front?

Yep. The GT crosses over to EBC!

[gizzo]

Thanks Chris. Last set I got were for a multistrada (front disc too)  but I didn't make a note of the part no. Almost time for me to get a new set too. You think the local RE place keeps brake pads in stock? As if...

[OLD FELLA]

I removed the front wheel because I thought what I had was a puncture but it turned out to be a dodgy tube - my fault - went for the cheap quick delivery option. Well I was looking at the strange wear pattern on the front rotor and it indicated the pads weren't making complete contact with the rotor so disassembly was the next step. I found that not only were the pads pinching in at the top (jamming on the guide pin and locator clips) but the top of the pads sat above the rotor and created a lip of 1.0 to 1.5mm on the pads.
So the pads aren't sitting low enough to make complete contact on the rotor and appears to be a design/manufacture fault.
To alleviate the problem the trailing edge, with respect to the rotor ratational direction,  (front) of the caliper needs to mount a few mm's lower or the pad locator clip/slot should have been lower (or the clip is upside down). More investigation required and results posted.
Long story about how I came to have EBC pads for the RE. Ran them on my race bikes and performed just as well as Brembo!

[gizzo]

Mine's the same. I trimmed the 1mm ish part of the pad that didn't touch the disc with a cutting disc. IDK whether it made any difference or not. I have a different issue as well. The original rotor developed a pulse like it was warped after a few 1000km. Replaced it with a Ducati one from Metal Gear.  It was fine for a few 1000 then it started as well.  Goes away for a bit if the disc or pads gets a good sanding but comes back quickly. No run-out measurable.  I've kind of learned to live with it.

The Monster is even weirder: brakes shudder. New discs,  still shudders.  Took off one caliper, shudder gone. Just for fun,  put that caliper back on and removed the other. Shudder also gone. Both calipers back on,  shudder is back.  WTF?

[JerryGT]

The Ducati Monster S2R 800 has the same caliper and disc at the front, but in different colors.

Looking for BMW F650 brake parts will bring much more results, than searching for the rare Ducati S2R 800.


Greetings

[OLD FELLA]

Mine's the same. I trimmed the 1mm ish part of the pad that didn't touch the disc with a cutting disc. IDK whether it made any difference or not. I have a different issue as well. The original rotor developed a pulse like it was warped after a few 1000km. Replaced it with a Ducati one from Metal Gear.  It was fine for a few 1000 then it started as well.  Goes away for a bit if the disc or pads gets a good sanding but comes back quickly. No run-out measurable.  I've kind of learned to live with it.

The Monster is even weirder: brakes shudder. New discs,  still shudders.  Took off one caliper, shudder gone. Just for fun,  put that caliper back on and removed the other. Shudder also gone. Both calipers back on,  shudder is back.  WTF?

Hey Simon! My field is Motorcycle Data Acquisition and Analysis Engineer (retired) and only learnt about suspension and braking from other team members but I did hear them talking with riders about odd braking behaviour (ruling out ABS gremlins) They found some caliper lines when looped across from one caliper to the other created a high speed pressure difference between calipers - high frequency pulsation and that is one of the reasons they have individual lines from the master cylinder to each caliper - no tee-off's or looping one caliper to the other. Riders have complained of pulsating lever right up to buzzing, strange noises when braking and asymmetrical pad wear!
Never really got into it any deeper than that and apparently it sorted the problems out!
I think our problems are poor production quality, manufactured under license and stamped with a known top shelf name.They still work and are sufficient for street work but fade incredibly fast on the track!
Also thanks to JerryGT for the Beamer info too!

Cheers
Chris

[KC1961]

the top of the pads sat above the rotor and created a lip of 1.0 to 1.5mm on the pads.

Same as mine. I remove the pads now and again and file the lip off.

[gizzo]

some caliper lines when looped across from one caliper to the other created a high speed pressure difference between calipers - high frequency pulsation and that is one of the reasons they have individual lines from the master cylinder to each caliper - no tee-off's or looping one caliper to the other. Riders have complained of pulsating lever right up to buzzing, strange noises when braking and asymmetrical pad wear!


Cheers
Chris

Hiya Chris. That's very interesting. Thanks. The monster does indeed tee off to both calipers from single mc line. Maybe it's an issue unique to that one bike for some reason. I've been thinking about blanking one port off and just removing a disc and caliper (the ones with just the one disc stop fine) but maybe it's worth looking harder, knowing what you mentioned.

Speaking of brake fade: I spent a long weekend in Feb at mac park riding and having coaching from a BSB ride and his IOMTT mate. They picked up that I don't brake super hard into corners (one of those roll off and coast types.....). They got me doing it race style and I went from a set of pads lasting 6 months to burning through a set in a day and a half! Too much fun.

[KD5ITM]

 I've got close to 8500 miles on my GT with the original front pads and rotor. Have never removed the front pads or rotor. The rotor has very minimal wear. Breaking is nice and smooth.

I found a Brembo dealer in California that stocks the front and rear brake pads for the GT. They've got the stock original pads along with a few different upgrades. Semi carbon composite, and full carbon composite.

I also have Local Company here in Houston that will make custom brake pads and shoes. All they need is the template of the brake pad so they know what Dimensions to work with. And they have a wide selection of compounds that they can use. My Dad recently used them to custom make a set of front and rear brake shoes for a 64 Volvo p544 B18 that he is restoring.