[Adrian II]

This might be of interest, ethanol-resistant floats for the Monobloc carburetor.

http://amalcarb.co.uk/monobloc-series/376-series/floats/monobloc-stayup-float-viton-tipped-needle-valve-kit.html

A.

[nonfiction]

Can somebody please give me the name or a description of the handlebar Grumbern has used on this bike? It's the bend I believe I'd like to have on mine.

This build, and Grumbern's skills with both showing and telling about it are utterly inspiring!

[Adrian II]

I think he calls them a set of chopper bars very early on. How about a set of Western or semi-Western handlebars from a Brit bike specialist who has spares for the export 70's Nortons or later (Meriden) Triumph twins?

A.

[nonfiction]

@Adrian, Yeah, I _think_ it might be a Western bar, but with everything closed, it's pretty hard to get your hands on anything to know the feel for sure.

What I'm wanting is to effectively move the grips forward to where they'd be with a normal trials/scrambles bar if the clamps were over the stem, not 2" behind it. Threadjack done though.

[Adrian II]

Our Indian friends have top yokes/triple trees where the handlebar clamps are in front of the stem, which they fitted to the 535 Lightning and 350 Thunderbird (home market) models. If you have jest spent reasonably big $$$ on the alloy top yoke, it's easier to change bars.

A.

[nonfiction]

Yeah, those new style clamps are, uh, exceedingly utilitarian looking—nothing like the beauteous curves and distinctive shapes of the casquette or the trials top yoke. No interest there, though I would consider swapping on a set of Ceriani or similar European alloy triples from the '60s if such were to turn up in my feed.

[grumbern]

I'm very sorry, but I have no idea where these bars originated from. These were mounted on the bike I salvaged and took parts from for the Laubfrosch. It just looked right, when I put it on there and so I kept it. I believe there were some Bullets in the early 90s, or even mid-80s equipped with higher bars like this one, but there might be others from smaller Japanese bikes that would come close to this one.
Regards,
Andreas

[nonfiction]

Thanks Andreas. No worries, and please keep up the gorgeous work on this beastie!

[grumbern]

Some things happened until now.
Firstly, I set the bike up on my multi purpose IKEA table




Then I started working on the foot pegs:








As I messed up the other one due to gas contamination wile TIG-welding and I wanted to move the pegs a little higher anyway, I made a second pair:








I also removed the gearbox cluster for inspection:




As it showed this was no mistake, as the high gear pinion has a broken tooth:




These are still the old pinions with 30-18 gearing, but I ordered a 15/25 replacement that should do as well from India.
Otherwise the gears look fine, but when disassembling the rear wheel for putting in new spokes, I damaged one lockring stud:




The previous owner glued the nut with thread lock. Hopefully I'll be able to obtain another one, or else I'll have to make one myself.
So long,
Andreas

[Adrian II]

A source of imperial thread fasteners in stainless steel (metric too, as well as Laverda parts).

https://www.motalia.co.uk/stainless-fasteners.html

A.

[symmo]

Are you going to use this Enfield in competition? Just an observation I think you might find the footrest a bit on the low side, your feet need to be up out of the way of rocks and so on. I trialled an Enfield back in the 70s and rocks, going over logs etc catching your feet were the most reason to bring you to a halt. my foot rest were up by the swing arm pivot.

[grumbern]

Thanks Adrian, this site might be helpful some time!

@Symmo: No, at the moment I have no plans of using it for competition, just for fun, but with a competitive touch
I mean, it should be built so it might be (or have been) used in competition, but I don't need to go into every last detail as it could cost me a point or two otherwise. If that was the case, I guess some other details would have called for different choices as well (for example engine mounts from Aluminium instead of steel).
The pegs aren't that low really, because the suspension is quite a bit higher than original (about 3-4 inches).


Andreas

[Adrian II]

Longer rear shock absorbers will mean a bit of extra work dealing with the rear chain run, quite possibly! I you haven't already seen it, this neat chain tensioner set-up was posted on Hitchcocks' forum recently.

A.

https://messageboard.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11467

[grumbern]

Yes probably. I thought about fitting sliders of any sort, but I'll see once a chain is put on.
Andreas

[grumbern]

As the main shaft bearing was a bit lose, I glued it in place with Loctite while securing it with a somewhat improvised setup:


Link


Link


The gars were disassembled, cleaned and found to be ok. With exception of the lmain shaft sprocket which was changed for a new one, as well as the fitting kick starter gear:


Link


A little accident happened when removing the rear wheel bearings


Link


Not wanting for this to happen again, I machined a nice knurl and will give it a drop of Loctite as well:


Link


As I didn't want to turn over the engine by hand, I simply modified an old M10 bolt:


Link


Way better!


Link


Oil pump working!


Link


But I had to whitness this as well:


Link


What the ...? There shouldn't be any oil there, but it keeps coming consistently. I'll have to put a fiber washer under there, the bore of the bolt broke through to the oil pump shaft.

I made a new hole in the kick stater shaft to give the return spring a bit more tension, as the kick start lever will be heavier and less optimal in geometry after it's modified to fit the bike:


Link


The gear change mechanism parts freed from dirt and rust:


Link


And mounted just in place:


Link


And I didn't have a securing bolt for the final drive sprocket, so I made one:


Link


Link


One step at a time...
So long,
Andreas