Author Topic: Project "Laubfrosch" - the trials hybrid  (Read 21888 times)

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grumbern

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Reply #15 on: June 03, 2019, 05:52:20 pm
The oven was rescued from its last journey to the junk yard, so it's ok ;)
I wouldn't bake a cake in there anymore, though... still perfect for burning in paint on the barrels, or bearing change :)

You of course have to align the crank as close as you can before pressing the halfs together. Then you'd check the run out and give it a whack with a copper hammer, depending on where and how you measure it. There are a lot of instructions out there for that :)

Good to see there's someone else reading this out there :)
Andreas


DavidGraves

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Reply #16 on: June 03, 2019, 10:19:51 pm
Thanks Andreas

You are also an excellent photographer and archivist of your work.


Arizoni

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Reply #17 on: June 04, 2019, 01:36:35 am
The new bronze bearing will be interesting but had I done it I would have pressed it into the connecting rod and kept the slip fit on the crankshaft journal.

My reason for this is twofold.

First, the oil supply is thru the crankshaft journal which directly feeds the bearing surface.  This eliminates the need for the multiple holes that feed the outer area of the bearing.  Of course, the annular groove in the inside of the bearing is still needed to distribute the oil completely around the sliding surfaces.

Second, the journal velocity in the bore is lower than it will be with the moving surface at the outside of the bearing.
Velocity speed is a definite limit on sleeve bearings and keeping it as low as possible would be a goal in my design.

For what it's worth, the original design of the rod bearing is a "floating" design.
With both the inner and outer surfaces of the bearing moving with a oil film between them and their mating parts, it serves as a cushion to lessen shock that can be imposed on the crank journal and the connecting rod.
This isn't very important for the large steel crankshaft journal but it could be for the rather flimsy aluminum connecting rod.

Anyway, good luck with your projects. :)
Jim
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1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


mattsz

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Reply #18 on: June 04, 2019, 03:37:49 pm
Still no one interested?

What, my little happy dance means nothing to you?!?  :(

;D


grumbern

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Reply #19 on: June 04, 2019, 08:01:38 pm
Sorry! :-[ ;)

About the bush: This is the way I was advised to do it
like. The reason is to enlargen the bearing surface and actually rise the speed, to keep the oil film stable. There also are not a number of holes, like in the floating bush, but just one opposed to the pressure side. The bearing speed should not exceed 12m/s under normal conditions and the material is rated good for up to 20m/s under dynamic lubrication. So everything cool there, I guess ;)

Yesterday I sand blasted the major parts and put on primer.
Andreas


heloego

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Reply #20 on: June 06, 2019, 03:30:01 am
I too have been paying close attention to your beautiful work.
I'm much less talented than you, so I don't have much to offer other than an occasional "WELL DONE!!!!!!!"  ;D
Loving everything I've seen so far.  :)
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grumbern

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Reply #21 on: June 08, 2019, 10:18:40 am
Thanks a lot, now I know there's some people reading this ;)
Here's a picture of the primered parts an the rear frame:



Adrian II

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Reply #22 on: June 08, 2019, 01:24:27 pm
I can't speak for Germany or the USA, but watching Grumbern's paint dry is better than anything on UK television at the moment!

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


mattsz

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Reply #23 on: June 08, 2019, 07:56:19 pm
I can't speak for Germany or the USA, but watching Grumbern's paint dry is better than anything on UK television at the moment!

A.

Trust me, it's pretty much the same here in the USA...


grumbern

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Reply #24 on: June 08, 2019, 10:08:07 pm
Today, there was a Chackie Chan movie, but usually it's pretty much the same too ;D
The parts now have the second coat of primer and If I had a web cam you could watch it dry in real time ;)

I also did some more on the rear frame an am hoping tomorrow I can paint everything in "palm green hammer paint".
Andreas


grumbern

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Reply #25 on: June 09, 2019, 04:15:10 pm
Heres two pictures of the seam of the rear frame. To be able to propperly weld, I turned and pressed in a little lug:






As well welded on the brackets for mounting to the frame and seat:




I don't like the welds, so I'll have to re-do these.
As well it was time to paint. Hammer tone palm green! I really think this colour is beautiful, it's robust, easy to retouch (I believe...) and gives the machine the looks of ... well, a machine:








Gorgeous, eh? I love that structure, very old school! I absolute liked that on the Heinkel "Perle" (Pearl).
In combination with raw aluminium this is ought to look perfect.
So long,
Andreas


mattsz

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Reply #26 on: June 09, 2019, 10:37:52 pm
Very cool color!  I'm liking this so far...  8)


Adrian II

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Reply #27 on: June 09, 2019, 10:54:50 pm
We have Hammerite in the UK, a very similar finish, though I don't think we have it in quite that shade of green. A real 70's flashback for me, though, I used black and green Hammerite to repaint my first BSA (a C15) back in er... 1976!

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


chuychacon

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Reply #28 on: June 10, 2019, 02:43:39 pm
Beautiful job!!

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symmo

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Reply #29 on: June 11, 2019, 08:49:59 am
That colour looks very similar to the new Bullet Trials that Enfield have produced for 2019. Excellent blog and obviously a very good engineer. All I ever had was hacksaws, files and a hand drill in my youth, but I did produce some good machines.