Author Topic: is an oil change every 3 months necessary?  (Read 12316 times)

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Superchuck

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Reply #15 on: February 01, 2011, 10:15:25 pm
To reawaken this thread:

Above, a few people mentioned using synthetic oils in the Bullet.  On the other hand, it's written in many other threads that it's a cardinal sin to use anything but a non-synth oil in these bikes.  I'll be getting my Electra AVL (first bike ever) next week, new, and am doing some research on the break-in period. 

Did I maybe read to use strictly non-synth oil only for the break-in period?  Or is there no difference? 

Also, before I knew I was getting a RE, I was reading up at other locations about the various break-in methods... I'm up on the standard slow and varied break-in for these bikes, which I plan to do, but I have one question regarding the 'motoman' method:

Motoman method says do your first oil change at only 20 miles.  Is this because using that method you'd shave all the metal filings out of your cylinder so quickly, and that doing it the methodical patient RE way, it'll take 300 miles to produce that many filings/contaminants?

Again, I'm going to take it slow and steady with the break-in, but I want to make sure I'm doing oil changes frequently enough.  Is it harmful to do your first oil change at, say 100 mi, as opposed to 300?  Is there any need to, or am I being overly cautious?

Many thanks,

Chuck


UncleErnie

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Reply #16 on: February 01, 2011, 11:14:20 pm
Getting sick of me yet? 

My opinion is the first change at 300 is fine.  Do it sooner if you want.
NON-synthetic oil is preffered because you WANT some wear.in the beginning.  You're getting parts to fit together the way they want to. 

Again- my opinion from experience;  bikes like this don't even like synthetic oil.  Some people use it, but if you change your oil often enough, it's also kind of a waste of money.  Go crazy and use a blend of motorcycle-specific oil.

I've been using Rotella-T, but I'm bending to per pressure around here (my house- not the foums) and will be using either Golden-Spectro or Motul from now on.  I use thos in my other bikes, so I may as well be consistant, anyway.
Run what ya brung


REpozer

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Reply #17 on: February 02, 2011, 12:11:35 am
I have used 20w-50 dino car oil, 15w-50 syn (Mobil One),

 Currently using 15w-40 diesel truck engine oil, and 1000ml 15w-40 in my primary, 90w gear oil in the tranny, 10w-30 in the front forks.
2008 AVL Classic Bullet in British Racing Green
REA # 84 ( the first time)


Superchuck

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Reply #18 on: February 02, 2011, 02:00:00 am
Cool, thanks both of you for the info, and UncleErnie, I'm trying to learn as much as possibly as quick as possible- so thanks for always answering!

I'm thinking that Ace's method mentioned on the first page sounds like a good idea... cheap oil, changed often.  I'm figuring out here that RE's don't necessarily need specific babying, they are motorcycles after all, but it really helps (you almost need to) know the in's and out's of your specific bike and just take it all in stride.


Ice

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Reply #19 on: February 02, 2011, 03:15:04 am
Just make sure your oil has enough anti wear additives in it and you will be fine.
ZDDP is the common name for the Zinc, Phosphorus stuff in oils API rated SL and earlier.

 Some diesel specific oil like Rotella (last I heard) have it, motorcycle oils have it and many *A-hem "racing" oils have it.

Bob is the oil guy website is wealth of info.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/
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baird4444

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Reply #20 on: February 02, 2011, 02:54:20 pm
A good number is 1,500 miles for the oil change. I use this as a guideline but if
it is looking pretty bad I'll change it earlier.  I think regular oil changes are more
important than what kind of oil...  yes the additives have changed so in the long
run one specific oil may be better than the other; and I stress LONG run.
Heat is the killer of oil so be kind to your Bullet....
I have added a piece on the recent change in motor oil that affects us.
Must be cabin fever...  the return of the oil thread!!  - Mike
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Superchuck

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Reply #21 on: February 02, 2011, 03:06:57 pm
Thanks again, and Ice, I'll check out bob the oil guy's site too before I pick up some oil today... stocking up on all my maintenancing gear before I pick up the bike next Thursday.


Ice

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Reply #22 on: February 03, 2011, 12:22:12 am
Thanks again, and Ice, I'll check out bob the oil guy's site too before I pick up some oil today... stocking up on all my maintenancing gear before I pick up the bike next Thursday.

Great fun innit ?  ;)

 Of course you have to post a pic of the bike,,,,and then the you mods you make
 ( you know you're going to)  ;D



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REpozer

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Reply #23 on: February 03, 2011, 12:32:18 am
A good number is 1,500 miles for the oil change. I use this as a guideline but if
it is looking pretty bad I'll change it earlier.  I think regular oil changes are more
important than what kind of oil...  yes the additives have changed so in the long
run one specific oil may be better than the other; and I stress LONG run.
Heat is the killer of oil so be kind to your Bullet....
I have added a piece on the recent change in motor oil that affects us.
Must be cabin fever...  the return of the oil thread!!  - Mike
Great article on the new oil. I'll be sticking with the truck oil for a while longer.
2008 AVL Classic Bullet in British Racing Green
REA # 84 ( the first time)


single

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Reply #24 on: February 03, 2011, 04:03:11 pm
I change oil about like Ace does.If the oil is getting dark,I change.I use STP as they claim to have "enough" ZDDP ,1/2 of a container.Put the other 1/2 in a container of oil for the next change.I use diesel truck oil.15w40.I also put a little marvel in there.Feel like a chemist.Jolly uses very little oil and is usually still fairly clean looking at 500 miles.


Superchuck

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Reply #25 on: February 03, 2011, 05:10:10 pm
Actually yeah, I can't wait to blow a couple hundred bones on supplies and tools... started another thread here with my checklist, just to make sure I'm getting everything/ not getting needless things.

Bike photos will come soon...

Mods, the first thing I'm going to try to do is replace the lollipop mirrors with bar-ends but I've read a bunch of threads on that and with the issues I've seen I'll be doing a lot more research before jumping into that project.

Thanks for all the engine oil suggestions too.. i'm going to tally up all the kinds i've heard around here and the most common one gets to go in my bike.  I'm totally new to riding so there's not a lot of customization i'll be doing right away... whatever's tried and true seems like a good course of action to me.

Chuck


mikail gransee

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Reply #26 on: February 09, 2011, 01:52:10 am
I change  the trans oil and primary oil when i change the engine oil.  I think I'll go with the 1000-1500 mile oil change. Quote]

How do you change the trans oil? I heard that it is a thick paste like junk and should not be messed with? ??? ::)
« Last Edit: February 12, 2011, 12:09:14 pm by mikail gransee »
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The Garbone

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Reply #27 on: February 12, 2011, 03:04:58 pm
I changed out the trans fluid on my cars every 60k for automatics and 150k for standards...
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
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95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
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GreenMachine

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Reply #28 on: February 12, 2011, 03:53:40 pm
that sounds about right...
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viczena

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Reply #29 on: January 13, 2021, 10:04:30 am
Heat is the killer of oil so be kind to your Bullet....

No. In this case the Bullet engine does not get warm enough. An engine oil should have at least 80 Ctg. !00 Ctg is better. A synthetic feels fine at 120 Ctg. The Bullet most often does not even reach 80 Ctg. So Water does not evaporate and forms an emulsion with the oil, which leads to clogged oil passages and a bad lubrication of the parts.