[SteveThackery]

The Meteor and Classic 350 may run "ok" stock, if you put a non cat con exhaust on it, which I have seen done in YouTube videos, it will likely need the A/F mixture richened up a bit, and I am unaware of any kind of "tuner" available for it.

In case anyone is interested, on the UCE Bullet the base map is great.  I think Keihin did a fine job of getting that right.  It only got a bit dodgy when they "closed the loop" and let the O2 sensor have its say.  The UCE idles closed-loop, and it doesn't run well at a stoichiometric mixture, for sure.

After extensive testing I found that the fuel-injected UCE runs and idles great on its base map.  All you need to do is force it to open loop.  This is very easy to do: simply disconnect the O2 sensor connector and put a 390k resistor across the signal lines from the ECU.

This tells the ECU that an O2 sensor is not present, but it doesn't bring up the MIL.  From then on, the engine runs open-loop on its base map, and in my case it ran beautifully at all times, including a rock steady idle.

Obviously there is still a cat in the exhaust, which is a bit restrictive, so I attacked mine and knocked/drilled several holes straight through the matrix.  It made the exhaust a bit louder (but in no way excessive), but I couldn't detect any difference in performance.

[MrB1967]

In the workshop manual I have there is a section on EMS adaptation procedure; this is from the Classic 350 Euro 5 manual:

[SteveThackery]

In the workshop manual I have there is a section on EMS adaptation procedure; this is from the Classic 350 Euro 5 manual:

Yes, this is an interesting new development. The Meteor manual has no such mention, but the Classic manual does, even though the engine is identical. I'd love to get to the bottom of this.

[Dexter]

The Meteor manual found on this forum is from the 2021 (first year) model, so possibly RE has an updated Meteor manual now.

Possible too (only from what I have read here), that since it seems the Hunter model EMS, being the latest of the three, is different than either the Classic, or the Meteor, that the Classic has differences that the Meteor will never see. Maybe RE is more focussed on bringing out more new models and is happy to let first editions remain that way for some time.

Being old - and an old school carburetor loving type of guy whose last bike, for 27 years, had four of 'em - I have not embraced the newer engine technology that comes with most, if not all new bikes today, so I generally sit on the sidelines in these discussions and pick up tidbits of knowledge that might be helpful to me.

Lucky for me, I guess, that my Meteor fits the bill for my requirements now, has been trouble free for two years and I have no burning desire to boost its performance.   

[WildCard]

Seems like letting the bike idle for 3in specially in hot weather might be bad for the motor???

[SteveThackery]

Seems like letting the bike idle for 3in specially in hot weather might be bad for the motor???

Yes, I did wonder that myself, especially as I seem to recall my Bullet manual specifically warning against letting the engine idle for long periods.

[3oro]

I tried it last year at about 20C outside. After 30 minutes at idle it was hot, but not like some other drives. This is my experience, not a recommendation

[Carl350]

       BMW boxers recommendations are no warm up idling, start & go.  They do warm up very quickly at traffic lights & queues.

      It looks like the J350 has been designed to cope better with heat at low speed or stationary, generous finning & the oil cooling passage round the plug & exhaust valve helping to cool the hottest part of the engine.

[Leofric]

I just let the engine idle for a couple of minutes before setting off ,and let the engine idle for a few seconds before turning the ignition off.

[Leofric]

I can't see how leaving the engine to idle for 20 minutes or so doesn't risk damage through overheating.