Author Topic: GT 535 MIL kicking out a few fault codes  (Read 2030 times)

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dexterkane

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on: April 04, 2021, 12:34:09 pm
Ok so bought a GT535 as a bit of a project and got a few fault codes present. It starts and rides ok, so I'm wondering if some of these are just old codes needing to be cleared. The MIL doesn't stay on at idle only lights up after you get going.

I have:

LONG 1 SHORT 1 Engine oil Temperature (TE) circuit malfunctioning. Tried to google this, not a lot coming up so far.

LONG 4 SHORT 5 O2 Sensor heater circuit malfunctioning.

Exhaust not original, power commander installed, o2 sensor has been removed, I assume this is down to this? Interested to find out where an o2 sensor eliminator might be found. If it's not been done this would hopefully be an easy fix.


LONG 3 SHORT 3 Injector circuit malfunctioning

LONG 4 SHORT 1 Fuel Pump circuit malfunctioning

As the bike starts and runs are these last 2 likely old faults that just need clearing or is that wishful thinking?

The seller informed me he took the bike to a RE mechanic and they told him the fault light was just down to the o2 sensor being removed. Want to find out a bit more before I take that as gospel though :)

Thank you!











viczena

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Reply #1 on: April 04, 2021, 12:54:10 pm
The last 2 faults could be historic.

To get rid of the O2 heater error you need a Lambda eliminator.

Follow the engine heat sensor and the cable. Maybe the connector is not pushed in. Or the cable is broken.

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dexterkane

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Reply #2 on: April 04, 2021, 04:50:15 pm
Thank you kindly. Could you tell me where the o2 sensor normally plugs into? Not got a worshop manual yet.

Also does anyone know if a faulty engine heat sensor would trigger the MIL at idle or just when the bike is in operation? Thanks


axman88

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Reply #3 on: April 04, 2021, 06:27:03 pm
Also does anyone know if a faulty engine heat sensor would trigger the MIL at idle or just when the bike is in operation? Thanks
I believe that error code will be set if the resistance (hence voltage in the sensor circuit) is outside the expected range at any point.  The ECU is expecting something like 2K ohms or more with a cold engine and around 100 ohms hot.  It doesn't know what the actual engine temperature is, but if it's seeing, for example, zero or infinite resistance, it concludes that there's a problem with the sensor and sets an error code.

These are the specs I have for the component from my C5's service manual:  I believe your 535 uses the same sensor.
               @ -20C   18.8 K ohms
               @ +40C   1.14 K ohms
               @  +100C   150 ohms

I don't have personal experience with my RE regarding this, but from reading other folks accounts, it appeared to me that confusing error codes can result from reasons other than problems with that particular sensor.  For example, if the ECU is being provided with poor quality DC, such as might result from an intermittent battery or ground connection, this might result in voltages on sensor circuits being out of range.  I think it's wise to double check before making conclusions.  Looks like there is a link to the 535's manual at the top of the Continental GT section of the forum.

Folks here in the forum have described a process to erase error codes in the Keihin ECUs, which you can search for if you want to do that.  I believe this process is as depicted in this U-tube video, where it's being performed on the RE Himalayan.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpTAgl1O4BE   


dexterkane

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Reply #4 on: April 04, 2021, 11:10:46 pm

[/quote]

Wow thanks, clearing the codes definitely sounds like a great place to start. Interestingly the procedures on this forum and the video are different, anyone know what that's all about? I guess the CGT is more likely to be the same as the bullet, but can always try both if needs be.

That manual is handy too, can finally get my head round where all these sensors etc are.

Looking forward to giving this a go!





dexterkane

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Reply #5 on: April 05, 2021, 01:47:53 pm
I believe that error code will be set if the resistance (hence voltage in the sensor circuit) is outside the expected range at any point.  The ECU is expecting something like 2K ohms or more with a cold engine and around 100 ohms hot.  It doesn't know what the actual engine temperature is, but if it's seeing, for example, zero or infinite resistance, it concludes that there's a problem with the sensor and sets an error code.

These are the specs I have for the component from my C5's service manual:  I believe your 535 uses the same sensor.
               @ -20C   18.8 K ohms
               @ +40C   1.14 K ohms
               @  +100C   150 ohms

I don't have personal experience with my RE regarding this, but from reading other folks accounts, it appeared to me that confusing error codes can result from reasons other than problems with that particular sensor.  For example, if the ECU is being provided with poor quality DC, such as might result from an intermittent battery or ground connection, this might result in voltages on sensor circuits being out of range.  I think it's wise to double check before making conclusions.  Looks like there is a link to the 535's manual at the top of the Continental GT section of the forum.

Folks here in the forum have described a process to erase error codes in the Keihin ECUs, which you can search for if you want to do that.  I believe this process is as depicted in this U-tube video, where it's being performed on the RE Himalayan.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpTAgl1O4BE

Well that cleared the fault log, ran her for a few minutes and it's currently just registering the O2 Sensor heater circuit fault which is making me feel much better about this project. Hopefully an easy fix with an eliminator :)





dexterkane

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Reply #6 on: April 05, 2021, 04:25:28 pm
Looks like ive found my problem I think. Logic would lead me to believe this is why I'm only getting one o2 sensor fault not both.

Going from 4 faults to only having to plug in a new £12 relay, happy days!





axman88

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Reply #7 on: April 05, 2021, 05:24:26 pm
Wow thanks, clearing the codes definitely sounds like a great place to start. Interestingly the procedures on this forum and the video are different, anyone know what that's all about? I guess the CGT is more likely to be the same as the bullet, but can always try both if needs be.

What code clearing process did you use?   And what was the difference between what you found on the forum and the process in the video?  I remember there was a lot of discussion about this, and some folks said it didn't work, others swore it did, but I don't recall the details.


dexterkane

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Reply #8 on: April 05, 2021, 06:13:21 pm
I used the one from the forum, actually after looking again the only difference was the YT video had an extra step which was starting the bike 4 times.





zimmemr

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Reply #9 on: April 06, 2021, 12:08:06 am
Looks like ive found my problem I think. Logic would lead me to believe this is why I'm only getting one o2 sensor fault not both.

Going from 4 faults to only having to plug in a new £12 relay, happy days!

It's always a relief to find a concrete problem.  ;)


dexterkane

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Reply #10 on: April 10, 2021, 08:38:31 pm
Isn't it just? New eliminator installed. Engine light gone. Happy days!


gizzo

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Reply #11 on: April 12, 2021, 11:00:49 pm
Isn't it just? New eliminator installed. Engine light gone. Happy days!
Brilliant! Your bike's PO could have made that O2 elimination tidier if (s)he'd tied that part of the loom away up under the tank instead of on the frame tube.
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dexterkane

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Reply #12 on: April 13, 2021, 10:29:37 pm
Brilliant! Your bike's PO could have made that O2 elimination tidier if (s)he'd tied that part of the loom away up under the tank instead of on the frame tube.

I'll put it on the ever lengthening to do list! :)