Now... if they will let you do a little secret re-phasing of those stock Cams maybe ?
For your race ? Leave the exhaust cam right where it is and advance the intake clockwise ONE tooth. The exhaust rotates counter clockwise and the intake clockwise. I would advance the intake one full tooth .. YUP ! ... One full tooth. That will tighten up your lobe centers and build a shyte ton more torque. You'll have more overlap and your intake valve will close earlier and increasing your cylinder pressure. The Stock LSA ranges from anywhere from 111-114 , depending on how those eccentric cam spindles are adjusted. You SHOULD be fine with in regards to piston to valve contact. But double check that , because there differences from motor to motor on these... Motors .
With the head pipe ?.... I would run at least an 1 5/8 pipe. 1 7/8 would be better ! And keep them revs up at 5000 -5500. And tune that pipe length to it... and stick an OPEN megaphone right THERE. Keep the intake as open as they let you... The intake is not really undersized for the rev range you are going to hit BTW. And You can tune around the effects of the map sensor with that PC-V. BTW... if that PC-V is a newer PC-V, it will NOT come with an narrow band o2 sensor cheater. EPA cracking down you know .
So you will have to make one or buy one off of Ebay... If you need the resister specs, let me know. Your wanna stay out of closed loop, because it will try to lean the mix out. You gonna want to keep your afr's at around 13.2 in a fixed throttle position for best power. Any richer and you'll likely just waste fuel and not gain any power... for pump piss that is.
Just some thoughts here...
IMHO ... You have to get Honda motors out of your head with this one, and play to this motors strengths. Bottom end and mid -range. This is a tractor motor compared to a Honda Motor .
Really though... MASSIVE heavy crank and long stroke. It's not gonna rev high with what your limited to ....