I finally bit the bullet (groan
) and did a top end strip. Loads of carbon (surprise surprise) almost to the point of flaking off (8,000 miles)! Plug looked in good condition, if a touch pale.
The main purpose of this little expedition is to sort out the squish gap (or excess of). Measured at 2.2mm. Also discovered that a) the gaps in my two compression rings were both on the left side (great.... ) cue lots of carbon all down the left side of the piston and b) that F*ck me are these valves shrouded! Given that as stock we only get about 0.2" lift to play with (is that correct?) it seems crazy that about 1/4 of the circumference of each valve has a 2-3mm lip around it in the head! That job will have to wait for another day, as I don't have a valve spring compressor here, nor a dremmel etc to do the fettling with. One change at a time me thinks.
I'd also recommend that people regularly crack off, loosen, grease, and re-torque tighten the two exposed head fasteners. The one by the spark plug in particular was seized pretty bad, and require judicious application of a hammer and a drift to shock it enough to allow me to undo it.