There is an interesting (small) battery-sized void between the transmission and rear fender lower mount. A battery there would be virtually invisible & take advantage of wasted space. Just needs a little box fabricated.
Taking all the toolboxes off gets you a skeletal look. The toolboxes really get in your way for stand-up off-road use, but for sit-down road riding no problem. The only real downside to the skeletal look is there isn't any good home for your various electrical switches. Doing everything in the casquette gets really busy. If you skip the ammeter & turn signals, the wiring to the casquette gets down to :
1) ground(-),
2) Horn (+) to Ground
3) Kill switch from points
4) headlight (+)
OR
4a) AC to Headlight
4b) AC Common
A few switches in the underseat area can cover ignition, headlights On/Off, etc.
The pod filter is easier to live with, IMHO. If you have a "high-flow" exhaust you may benefit from a bigger carb. The Mikcarb works well enough for a stock engine. If you don't have a known good high performance crank with steel con rod, alloy barrel and a forged piston you'll be sitting on a grenade if you like to throttle up the motor. The stock rods are weak and can break, the OEM pistons tend to drop skirts when you spin up these motors. I'd save my money until I had the basic performance pieces in place. THEN you can pull maybe 35 reliable horses out, and the cams, carb, etc. will become useful, not a liability.