Author Topic: fuel cut at high speeds  (Read 6824 times)

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Adrian II

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Reply #60 on: May 31, 2022, 07:33:26 pm
Poor fuel flow can from a rogue petcock can actually ruin and engine.

A.
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Blaqkfox

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Reply #61 on: June 01, 2022, 04:08:16 am
Yeah I’m wondering if that was the majority of my issue the whole time! Glad I didn’t hurt this engine too bad, poor bike has seen hell these first 2k miles. I hear these engine are pretty tough though.

I rode the bike on my 64 mile trip to work today, yet to check the plug and see if it looks better, it did last time I checked, even with the failing petcock. So I bet it’s even better now, maybe even too rich now ha

But the bike felt so much more like I imagine it should. And my confidence is up.

The last maintenance thing on the list is the dreaded gasket around the starter on the secondary primary cover. I got the clutch holding tool from H’s now I just need another special puller tool and I should be good to do that repair. It’s not a large leak though so I’m trying to push it off until winter lol but that’s along time from now around here.

Oh and I should probably do something about the crankcase breather/PCV system everyone complains about. Mine seems to be working fine, I’m not sure what the complaints about it are
-Adam


tooseevee

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Reply #62 on: June 01, 2022, 11:38:51 am

Oh and I should probably do something about the crankcase breather/PCV system everyone complains about. Mine seems to be working fine, I’m not sure what the complaints about it are

           Most of the complaints centered around the fact that sooner or later the crankcase breather "system" would splooge sumped oil all over the air filter making it impossible for the engine to get air and also dripping from the case all over the muffler or header pipe.

            Some of this probably happened because the catch can was a bit of a PITA to get at & drain so it filled up. That plus over filling at oil changes.

            The fix is simple & straight forward.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


Blaqkfox

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Reply #63 on: June 02, 2022, 01:39:28 am
Well, the other day when I just rode around my town where its mostly 30mph zones and a little stretch of 55mph highway I checked the plug after my ride and it looked like how I imagine it should look- a little grey on the tip of the insulator.

But I did my 64 mile commute on it yesterday and pulled the plug today to check it out and its still white as can be on the tip...



heat range looks good judging by the ground strap. although I might try a one step colder plug, I hear that can really help. Or maybe this is just how its going to look/just the way the combustion burn happens on this engine... especially when spending a a long time between 40-60 mph, sometimes 65 for just a moment. It IS grey all the way down the insulator, doesnt look to be too rich or too lean, just right, its just the very tip of the insulator there thats arctic white still.

everything is pretty solid now- fuel is flowing as it should now, airbox gasket is new, exhaust gasket is new, there is still the ever so smallest exhaust leak between the silencer and header pipe, so maybe thats contributing. otherwise it should be fine.

only mods are PAV delete, hot pipe delete, and the BSA silencer. 120 main and a 17.5 pilot.
-Adam


Adrian II

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Reply #64 on: June 02, 2022, 05:16:52 pm
If it's running well, just call it a day.

Ordinary bathroom silicone RTV should seal any remaining exhaust leaks. No fancy automotive grade needed.

A.
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Paul W

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Reply #65 on: June 02, 2022, 09:35:51 pm
The side electrode has some carbon on it for almost half its length and so it doesn’t look too weak by my thinking.
Paul W.


Blaqkfox

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Reply #66 on: June 11, 2022, 11:25:36 pm
yeah Im just calling it good at this point. the ceramic down in there has a good grey to it and so does the body base ring there around the electrode. It runs great, temps look good, still curious to me why the tip of the plug stays white, but whatever. its been 800 miles now and it hasn't blown up or overheated anymore or shown any signs of pinging, so im gonna call that good lol if anything I think it might be a hair on the rich side, but ill take it.
-Adam


Blaqkfox

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Reply #67 on: August 13, 2022, 01:04:15 am
Sorry to revive an old thread but im still dealing with the issue. Its ever so persistent now it seems. I have the old bowl style petcock...



and the little filter inside it keeps clogging up with fine rust particles from the tank. This is after I half ass cleaned it, I should've taken a before photo...



Im wondering if I can just remove that filter inside the bowl, normally I wouldn't but since I have that in-line filter to the carb and all I figure I can do away with it right?

Cant really clean the tank, I cleaned it awhile back and it still got rusty a little. I had to patch the tank with some JB water weld since there was a pin hole that we tried and tried to weld but the tanks metal is too thin, and vinegar or anything I would use to clean the tank will eat the JB weld, so im just living with it if possible, don't really want to buy a new tank if I can avoid it tbh.

Obligatory pics from my trip on Highway US129 aka "The Dragon" (this might've been on the Skyway I can't remember)





-Adam


AzCal Retred

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Reply #68 on: August 13, 2022, 02:07:49 am
Do a flow test. The petcock has to flow more than the engine uses. My anemic 350 uses up a float bowl full in about 200 yards if I forget to open the petcock... :o  ...but it refills in under 2 seconds after I open it back up.

I think 2CV suggested a refill rate of a cup in 30 seconds, that seems right. My Hitchcock's "methanol" wide bore petcock easily does that but you lose reserve function. I don't care about reserve, but I do like the petcock to allow my inline filter to "burp" any trapped air.

It looks like your fuel tap bolts on, so it'll likely be harder to find a higher flow replacement unless you have a bolt on pipe nipple tap plate to allow use of the old school tap. I believe H's has this adapter?

I had luck in my tank with "OSPHO", a hardware store phosphating compound for rust control. I used detergent and a garden hose to get the gas residue, then Naval Jelly to eat the rust, then another wash & rinse cycle(s) to get out the Naval Jelly, then taped up the tap and added maybe a cup of OSPHO thru the fuel cap hole. I sloshed it about the tank to coat all inner surfaces several times over maybe 15 minutes, then dumped it out and let the sun bake out any liquid over the next 2-3 days. The OSPHO changes the surface rust to a bluish-black coating bonded (so far! ;D) to the tank metal.

After everything was dry, I reassembled and refuelled. I haven't had any "rust dust" or crumbs since in my filter or float bowl.
OSPHO was cheap and chemically bonds with the iron in the rust. I didn't want a plastic sheet inside that could later peel off. You can always "rinse & repeat" if it starts re-rusting in a few years, OSPHO comes by the gallon; you'll have plenty left. My treatment is still good after 3 years.



A trifecta of Pre-Unit Bullets: a Red Deluxe 500, a Green Standard 500, and a Black ES 350.


Paul W

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Reply #69 on: August 13, 2022, 10:39:33 am
My 350 Bullet Electra has the older style fuel tap without a bowl filter, although it does have a strainer around the stand pipe for the reserve function. The bike came with a paper type filter in the fuel line, which I think is standard and that will trap any fine debris.

It’s this type, which I’m sure will be sold by Hitchcock’s.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384479051691?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=P2WN_HmLRA2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_mH0__DERQe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Paul W.


Adrian II

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Reply #70 on: August 13, 2022, 10:53:17 am
Quote
It looks like your fuel tap bolts on, so it'll likely be harder to find a higher flow replacement unless you have a bolt on pipe nipple tap plate to allow use of the old school tap. I believe H's has this adapter?[/qoute]

Sure enough, part # 92554, don't forget the seal and screw kit for it, imaginatively numbered 92554A. The adaptor is threaded ¼" BSP, so any decent petcock the right size will do, the methanol type AzCal refers to (PTAP2) won't dissolve in the ethanol in your gas and shouldn't give any fuel starvation issues if correctly operated.  :P

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Blaqkfox

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Reply #71 on: August 20, 2022, 03:00:50 am
Oh the flow is fine. The bike does perfectly fine until this petcock clogs up every couple of weeks.

I don’t think finding a replacement would be hard? A bolt on style petcock like this is pretty standard on older Japanese bikes. They’re like $12 on Amazon. Just got one for my cm400 before I sold it and for my buddy’s kz550 and we keep them in stock at the shop for all sorts of dirt bike applications and whatnot.

I know the gasket is the same exact one too because I robbed the old one off my cm400 to seal the petcock hole when I cleaned my tank. They don’t have a bowl on them though they do have a pre screen tube that goes up vertically into the tank. They make all decent lengths of those though so fitment shouldn’t be an issue I don’t think.

I imagine removing the pre screen in the bowl would basically make it the same as one without it. I think I’ll try removing the pre screen, I’ve got the in line filter so it should be fine
-Adam


Ex-gasman

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Reply #72 on: October 12, 2022, 03:58:37 pm
Check the vent in the gas tank filler cap! If you want the gas to flow out, air has to flow in. This has caught me out with more than one Indian Royal Enfield.

A.
I have a similar problem, I had a look but can't see where the vent is