[mrunderhill1975a]

Well done, keep it rolling.  Do you have any tips or suggestions on how to get the wheel lased with such precision?

[StreetKleaver]

Well done, keep it rolling.  Do you have any tips or suggestions on how to get the wheel lased with such precision?

It wasn't easy. Just little by little. Gentle adjustments until all spokes were torqued up.

[Mr_84]

Well done, keep it rolling.  Do you have any tips or suggestions on how to get the wheel lased with such precision?

A couple of tips that work for me , fit all the spokes loosely with an even amount of thread showing . There is a inner and outer spoke on each side making 4 spokes per pattern tighten every 3rd spoke a tiny bit this will happen 4 times to complete the pattern, going around many times doing this little by little will be better than getting greedy, nothing worse than a wheel that is running true side to side but has the dreaded up and down movement. A good thing to note before you start is the off set of the rim to hub some crazy old bikes can be different to what you think , you true your wheel and then fit it to the bike and it's off to one side, not cool! But yes best tip is little by little, good luck

[mrunderhill1975a]

Thanks, my bullet wheels have about 37000 miles on them, and they wobble a bit.  I am reluctant to touch them due to my experience as a pre-teen attempting to true my bicycle wheel.  I still have nightmares!

[Karl Childers]

If you don't already have one a truing stand is the way to go. I have a wheel balancing stand that doubles as one. Working off the bench instead of the bike has its advantages

[StreetKleaver]

Hi guys. A minor update whilst waiting on parts. I was a little worried that the Piston and barrel would need a freshen up.  Ran a compression test. At a smidge over 170psi, I think its safe to leave it alone!
On the way a Price "R" cams, then followed by Hitchcocks competition oversize valves, Samrat Rockers and T6064 push rods.

[Ratz]

Hi, thanx for the pictures! I think you did a great job, your Bullet looks the part! Such a sweet bike 
And you not only improved the looks of the bike but also the engines reliability. You did all the useful modifications, bigger oilpumps, bearings and so on...
I hope you enjoy her for a long time to come, cheers from Germany,
Ralf

[Raymond]

I'm with Ralf - love this bike.

[StreetKleaver]

Thanks Guys!

The Henry Price "R" cams from the UK arrived today. (Price Part Motorocycles). My hands are full with the GT535 at the moment but I'll install these on the weekend.

[Mr_84]

Install , ride and report findings here I'm sitting on the edge of my seat already waiting to hear the results of these "R" cams

[StreetKleaver]

Install , ride and report findings here I'm sitting on the edge of my seat already waiting to hear the results of these "R" cams

Haha. Ok Ok!
See how the weather goes. Forecast for rain and possible flooding in my area of SE Queensland at the moment. So we'll see.

[Warwick]

Beast!!! Well done

[StreetKleaver]

Not a successful day. Installed the new Price "R" cams. Had to make a little bit of clearance on the case, installed fine and set the lash. Double checked the timing
Fired it up, started a lot easier than the Indian cams. Nasty clack, clack, clack coming from the head. (more noise than usual)

Whipped the timing cover off again. Double checked and re-set everything, checked timing again. Bolted back together. Fired it up again.

Same again. **Clack Clack Clack**

Popped the rocker covers off. Slowly kicked it over with no spark plug. I could hear the "clack" coming from one of the valves.
Removed the intake valve rocker box and push rod as a process of elimination. Figured out it's the exhaust valve. Makes a nasty clack when it closes. Even when just kicking it over with no plug. With both inlet and exhaust rockers and pushrods removed. No noise. So it's the exhaust valve.

The head is original and has got 50,000+ miles on it. So I'm guessing its due for a rebuild. The exhaust valve has always made a bit of racket. But the new cams being a different profile and slightly higher lift might of amplified the issue, or may even made the valve sticky if they are being lifted past their "wear bedding"?
 
I'd guessing the guide is also worn and sucks oil in because it tends to make plugs look a bit wet/burnt oil at times. Also the top end socket of the push rod is loose. Has a bit of slop and spins around.

Ran another compression test. It's down from 175psi to 130psi.
So something isn't healthy up there, looks like I'll be rebuilding the head sooner rather than later.

**sigh**

At the moment I'm trying to remove the head without force. It's got a lot of glue holding it on!
I try do things in steps so when it comes to tuning it's not a huge change. But looks like it's getting the Hitchcocks Oversize valves now and some port tuning.
Luckily the GT535 is in good shape and I have it to ride.

[AzCal Retred]

Nice work!

The head comes off relatively easy IF you pull off the carb mount & tap inside the passage ways, intake & exhaust, alternately with a wood drift.

The spigot isn't the sealing surface. Carbon tends to collect on the outside of the spigot and bond the head to the OD of the spigot.

Maybe some WD40 sprayed into the cylinder will help break the bond from the inside.

Don't pry on the fins! 

It'll come off, just keep tapping it upward from inside the ports - ACR -

[StreetKleaver]

Nice work!

The head comes off relatively easy IF you pull off the carb mount & tap inside the passage ways, intake & exhaust, alternately with a wood drift.

The spigot isn't the sealing surface. Carbon tends to collect on the outside of the spigot and bond the head to the OD of the spigot.

Maybe some WD40 sprayed into the cylinder will help break the bond from the inside.

Don't pry on the fins! 

It'll come off, just keep tapping it upward from inside the ports - ACR -

I learned not to pry on fins as a young chap! Haha.

Older picture, but the head is completely bare at the moment. No Carb, Exhaust, Decomp Valve and Rocker plumbing. I gave up after it not wanting to budge. I've given it a spray of Brake-cleaner around the outside of the gasket, it should soak in a little and let some of that glue go.

I gave up after that. I'll have another crack this afternoon. I don't have a valve spring compressor but I may be able to just to get the valves out at least.