Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Vintage Royal Enfield => Topic started by: ddavidv on September 16, 2020, 11:39:48 am
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I've been a Bullet iron barrel forum regular. Looks like I'll be hanging out here now also. :D
My only photo hosting is through FB which kills the links after a short period. When possible I'll link to my videos about this new project as they will stay up in perpetuity. Brace yourselves for lots of questions!
https://youtu.be/bQfouQhNFo8 (https://youtu.be/bQfouQhNFo8)
(https://scontent.fagc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/115993818_10158588841161055_6249587772049199089_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=6-f23p-Xv8cAX_n77iZ&_nc_ht=scontent.fagc1-1.fna&oh=4e150621376f9a791d4b8edcca926011&oe=5F87F560)
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One of the best-looking twins to come from the UK.
A.
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Hi. That's a great looking bike. Almost complete by the look of it. Is it a runner? I hope you get some miles on it soon and you don`t have the oil leaks and smoking problems I`m having with my 1960 Super Meteor. They can be a challenge, as I`m finding out. I`m a long time Classic Bullet rider now with my first twin.
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Lovely bike - lucky you!
Frank
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Not a runner. Parked since 1974 if tag is to be believed.
Carbs seized solid. Fuel tank blissfully clean. Magneto pretty corroded where the points reside. Assessment video coming shortly.
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Link to video of condition assessment. I'd appreciate input on the magneto.
https://youtu.be/dDxqgj_JTi8 (https://youtu.be/dDxqgj_JTi8)
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Fortunately the Lucas K2F magneto isn't rare, new points and bearings are readily available if that's all that's needed beyond stripping out and cleaning the cam ring and the points already in there. At least they are over here, I think I found a few US-based magneto repair shops on the internet too.
Your options are repair, replace or go for some electronic gubbins.
I'd go with the first if you have the $$$, you might have to go full rebuild on it which would also mean a rewind for the armature, new condenser and may be slip ring as well as bearings, points and re-magnetising. Also check for wear on the cam ring itself - assuming it cleans up OK - uneven wear can cause variation in ignition timing between the two cylinders, though this can usually be put right.
If you replace it with another magneto (would that you could still just get a service exchange unit from your nearest local Lucas depot!) make sure you get one with the right rotation, check, but I THINK the RE twin magnetos spin clockwise at the drive end (anti-clockwise at the points). Other British twins' magnetos spin anti-clockwise at the drive end, same as the Bullet in its magneto-fired days.
Should you be tempted by electronic there are still more options, including a replacement drive housing with a Boyer or Pazon ignition (to name but two), or even a new electronic magneto from BT-H, basically CDI tech but still independent of the rest of the electrical system. I'm using the single cylinder version on a couple of my Bullets and they seem pretty good. But that's a way bigger buck option than getting your existing magneto professionally rebuilt, I suspect!
https://www.bt-h.biz/K2F--Lucas-Replica-Flange-Magneto
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I had my magneto remagnetised and rewound for ~150€ and they also put a new condensor in. The cleaning and new bearings was something I did myself, but mine was in a better shape. I would firt dismantle the thing and see what you can do, but giving the thing to a professional is not a bad idea, as the mentioned work can not eb done at home an usually is needed, if not already done.
Best wishes,
Andreas
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Okay, so what magical tool or trick to I need to remove the lower forward nut on the magneto to remove it?
Or do I have to pull the timing cover off to access something?
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Great find, man! It at least seems a cut or three above the typical "barn find" or "project bike". In fact, I'm getting a distinctly optimistic "Mustie1-esque" easy resurrection vibe...
Fingers crossed.
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Okay, so what magical tool or trick to I need to remove the lower forward nut on the magneto to remove it?
Or do I have to pull the timing cover off to access something?
The timing cover has to come off so that you can remove the drive sprocket. Earlier K2F fitted twins had an adapter plate to mount the magneto on the back of the timing chest, as these were originally machined to take the Lucas SR2 magneto. I don't see the adapter in the '64 Interceptor parts book, but if there is one and it's secured on the inside of the timing chest you should be able to remove the three fixing screws and remove the mag complete with the plate.
(https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/42449-1200.jpg)
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/7700?qty=1&continue_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com%2Fpartsbook-pages%2F2905
On other British twins the K2F would be bolted directly to the crankcase, but for ease of removal extended studs for the lower mounting were available.
A.
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My '65 has the mag adapter plate , so I imagine the '64 would also.
The parts books aren't always too clear when it comes to ancillary parts.
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Yup, it has the spacer.
I knew the brilliant folks at Redditch would not have engineered something so impossible to remove.
You know, like the Germans. ;D
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A friend who specializes in vintage American bike restoration sardonically refers to British engineering in this way:
If the Americans can make something work using only 3 parts, the English will use 5 just because they can !
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Or because they didn't want to re-tool for modifying components... :P
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And the Germans will make it with 27 parts. The Italians will use fewer parts but all the fasteners will be inaccessible unless you have the hands of a small child.
I came up working on European cars. British stuff was at least meant to be serviced.
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Germans did build "nice to work on" machines as well, they just don't anymore, like the rest of the world...
I started my career with "Kreidler", a Swabian manufacturer of small motorcycles. These were just as maintainable as RE, but the quality was way better, I have to admit. When Japan came around and their bikes cost only half the price, this was history though :'(
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Brief update. Found some interesting issues.
https://youtu.be/TpWemMHnY9w (https://youtu.be/TpWemMHnY9w)
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Here's your workshop manual!
A.
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/core/media/media.nl?id=238080&c=1062795&h=25cfc105b2c781b8ba3d&_xt=.pdf
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This might also be of interest.
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/Used-Parts-and-Bikes/Toolboxes-Air-Filter/33866
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Got the exact same set of spanners and they're doing a good job so far! 8)
Maybe the damage on the auto advance unit might be the loose timing chain, causing everthing else to "rattle" and break off?!
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Yeah, how stupid am I? I spend lots of time promoting Hitchcocks because they have been so good to me on my Bullet and only just found out they have the manual available for download.
I can fix my existing tool box for less than 100 quid. That one needs painted too. I'd rather leave it for someone more in need.
Magneto is at the rebuilder's. Should have an assessment in about a week.
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Magneto is finished. Awaiting it's return. Don't ask what it cost. :-[
Question: I wanted to drain the oil but found no plugs on the underside of the case like are on the Bullets. There was a massive plug on the side that I removed that contains a screen that did the job but I can't believe this is the correct way to do an oil change because I had to remove the right exhaust pipe to get a socket on it!
In looking at Hitchcocks catalog it appears there may be a 'screw' drain plug but it must be a tiny thing. Is that really it?
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YouTube project update. https://youtu.be/9Nyzzl8jF6s (https://youtu.be/9Nyzzl8jF6s)
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The extra bolts in the back wheel are security bolts to stop tyre creep. You will need to loosen or remove them to get the tyre off.
Frank
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Latest video update: https://youtu.be/s7g6x6v_4nA (https://youtu.be/s7g6x6v_4nA)
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One more small installment before starting attempt.
https://youtu.be/fcIOFjcrTtM (https://youtu.be/fcIOFjcrTtM)
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Pretty much completed: https://youtu.be/jl6CWLnhhmA (https://youtu.be/jl6CWLnhhmA)
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Looking great, but regarding the electrical confusion, The Parts Book Is Your Friend!
If you'd checked there, you would have seen that the Series 1 interceptor takes a 6V battery, so it's a 6V system as stock. Some of the other ones you have read about have most likely been converted to 12V by their owners, and you could convert yours easily enough (fairly cheaply too, if your existing alternator is still in good shape). I can see where confusion could have arisen where the workshop manual shows both 6V and 12V systems, and the mid/late 1960's is when most British bikes electrics went from 6V to 12V. I don't know if any very late Series 1 models were shipped with 12V systems.
The LATER Interceptors (S1A and S2) were all 12V from the factory, they would have a zener diode voltage regulator (mounted on a finned alloy heat sink) as part of the 12V system in the days before combined reg/rectifiers. See items 44 and 36 in the parts book drawing (which also shows the points ignition which replaced the Series 1's magneto).
(https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook_images/PB0967PAGE47.jpg)
https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/3258
Hope to see and hear this one running soon.
A.
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Congrats on this one, looking good. 8)
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First ride made. But...
https://youtu.be/4RGPwivetKM (https://youtu.be/4RGPwivetKM)
Diagnosis: no compression in the left cylinder. :(
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Maybe, if she didn't run for quite a while, its just the piston rings sticking. Or the valves having too little clearance.
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I checked the clearance again, not that. I'll hit it with some compressed air tonight and see if I can tell where it's failed.