[GUNR]

Wow! so that's how these bikes are supposed to go. I checked my chain tension with my new 'Chain Monkey' (what a doddle chain tensioning is now!) and went for a quick 25km squirt along the deserted old highway.

Finally having an O ring in the injector groove (AWOL when I disassembled) and especially replacing the O ring on the cylinder head side of the isolator which had been tightened so much that the O ring was flattened, eliminated the air leaks in the inlet tract and the engine pulls even stronger than before. I don't remember having to consciously hang onto the bars before; now she's trying to tear them from my grip...or it seems that way and I haven't even dialled in the Dobeck EJK tuner yet.

Yeah Gizzo, I have the gaskets, ring compressor etc. to take the head off and tackle it that way, but then I thought you'd have had to align a bulky cylinder head while jockeying the isolator and two O rings into position.

Thanks to Gizzo and Taurim for giving me the confidence to go ahead and achieve these fixes.

[GUNR]

Now I'm able to remove the fuel line connector with the DIY wire pliers https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=36296.0 and get the tank off.

So many jobs to do on my list so I removed the tank, decluttered the wiring under the tank, in front of the air box and under the seat. Now all of the wiring behind the engine sits inboard of the starter relay, whereas before it was all over the shop. I removed H's fancy aluminium crankcase breather as I was still getting oil running down the RHS cover. Now I've reinstated the OEM breather connection with a new oil resistant hose leading back to the air box. The engine has enough compression for me to stand on the kick start lever and if it was a valve guide issue I thought I would have been laying a smoke screen.

Of course, this meant removing the plastic 'electrical tidy' plate and as a result the horns which will free up the mounting bracket to mount the Loobman chain oiler.
Hey Gizzo, how did you keep your oiler's feed line out of the way of the chain as it goes over the swing arm pivot? I peeked in and saw all that remained of my new swingarm chain rubber cushion is the two bolts holding it on! I've got some 5mm hard rubber kicking 'round so I'll press some paper on the bolts holes for a drilling template.

[GUNR]

I noticed that the ECU had slid back down (again) in its rubber holder. A couple of zip ties linked together and tightened around the ECU 'just enough' will deter it from sliding back.

[GUNR]

The swingarm pad (part #585209) which I replaced recently, has seen fit to disintegrate. While ferreting around in the stores department I laid my hands on a piece of 5mm rubber sheet which I thought would do to replace the OEM 3.5mm article. The crucial measurements for a DIY pad I decided would be the distance between centres of the 2 mounting holes, distance from the right side of the frame and distance from the rear most hole to the inside curve of the swingarm.

As luck would have it, the remaining fragment of the old one gave me the centres of the 2 holes (so I didn't have to reach in and do a 'brass rubbing' to establish the hole positions).
I removed the chain guard and fitted it via what seemed like laparoscopic surgery as there is no room to move your hands much let alone see what you are doing.
Another fiddly job sent to try us.

[GUNR]

It's on a flat bracket attached to the bike with one of the airbox mounting bolts.

Comparing your picture with the front of my air box, I don't see an airbox mounting point. You're obviously not running your CC breather tube to the air box as you have the blanking plug in place. I moved my horns back to the front and packed away the electrics tidy panel so I could install my Loobman chain oiler. The CC breather tube going into my airbox occupies the space where I intended to mount the oil reservoir. Any ideas Gizzo; and how did you run the oil delivery tube (e.g. over the lateral frame member that sits above the swingarm pivot point, zip tied to the inside of the pillion footpeg triangle and thence along the swingarm)?

[gizzo]

My airbox has a standoff with a captive nut moulded in that attaches to a bracket on the frame crossmember. You can see it in the pic. It's the lower protrusion from the airbox. The frame mount is a welded tab. Your bike doesn't appear to have either so you'll have to work something else out. Have you tried the plastic wedges that came with the kit to zip tie the bottle to the frame somewhere?

My breather still runs into the original place in the airbox. There's another stub in the bottom of the box that you can't see because it's hidden behind the oil bottle. It's the one with the cap on it in your photo. The one here your breather is fitted was capped off from new on mine.

Looks like there's a few slight differences between MY01 bikes and the others.

[GUNR]

I thought there were some differences between our airboxes. I have no idea what the lowest blanked off port is for. I've been looking for mounting locations even with the plastic triangle. The most likely candidate spot is where I have arrowed, but I doubt it would be vertical enough.

[gizzo]

Could you make a sheet metal bracket that picks up on the rear engine mount plate?

[GUNR]

Could you make a sheet metal bracket that picks up on the rear engine mount plate?

I was thinking that I could fix a bracket to the captive nut which I previously had the right horn mounted to.

[GUNR]

Today I made my cardboard template so I can make the Loobman reservoir bracket; now the searching begins for a suitably sized cylindrical object that I can use as a mandrel. The instructions suggest that it is best to mount it where it can be accessed while sitting on the bike, which means that Gizzo's location is optimal (I just have to dodge the crankcase breather tube...)

I bought our host's soft luggage supports (part # 93206) as I wanted to be able to choose whether to carry saddlebags/cases or not.
I like the look of the Lomo 'Motorcycle adventure pannier dry bags - Medium' as they are waterproof and will fit the dimensions between the top shock mount and the rear indicator (and they're only £59 in the UK; but who knows what price in Oz). They have plenty of the Molle webbing attachment points on the back of these bags. Does anyone have experience with them?

[GUNR]

The Loobman chain oiler was finally installed today. In the end I decided to go with the same location as Gizzo used for his one (thanks for your help mate). There was a scrap of aluminium checker plate which ended up being fit for purpose and I used the neck of a spade as a mandrel for the curve that the cylindrical reservoir nestles into.

The two fiddly parts are bending the delivery wire correctly so that the small zip tie offcuts can slide on each side of the rear sprocket. They sort of work like capillary action in that the oil oozes slowly along the thin zip tie, onto the sprocket and then onto the chain. So simple an idea and it works a treat sending the oil (80W gear oil is what I had on hand) straight to where it's needed. Luckily I bought a you-beaut oil funnel which looks like a truncated cone and is perfect for filling the chain oiler cylinder (and it just happened to be colour-matched to the bike).

While I was crouching down doing that, I thought I'd have a peek into the air box. There was a thin smear of oil in the bottom of the air box (better there than running down the crankcase and onto my boot as before). I also found that the velocity stack had slipped out, so it looks like I'll be adding extra hose clamps (as Streetkleaver did) around the flexible rubber tube between the air box and throttle body so they can clamp onto the velocity stack. That'll be another day...

[gizzo]

That's a good location for the reservoir! Nice one.

I glued the stack in with some sika marine adhesive after it fell out.

[GUNR]

I glued the stack in with some sika marine adhesive after it fell out.

I thought of wrapping the end with ant-con silver tape (which sticks like s--t to a blanket) to pack out the gap and hold the stack in place. In the end I went to Bunny's and bought a stainless 46 - 70mm hose clamp and tightened it just enough to stop the stack rotating. That way I can dismantle what I need to when other jobs need to be attended to.

I noticed a little oil around the reservoir plunger so maybe I have to only half fill the cylinder from now on.

[GUNR]

After my initial mounting of the Loobman oiler reservoir, I was getting oil jumping up around the plunger activation lever. I contacted Dennis at Loobman and he suggested to rubber mount the bracket as vibration may be the issue.

Prior to my last ride, I used some 5mm hard rubber sheet, punched a hole in it with a wad cutter and  isolated my DIY bracket with the new rubber isolator. A good 100km fang and no leaks! I can recommend the Loobman oiler for its function, simplicity and value and also the backup from Dennis who is right on the ball.

[GUNR]

With my son's help, I finally got around to fitting the new Renold primary chain. Rather than buying the factory tool to lock the crankshaft drive to the clutch basket, I adopted the suggestion found in my Haynes manual to make a DIY version. The manual suggested steel of 70 x 20 x 5mm rounded at the ends, but I had a scrap of 6mm aluminium plate which I cut, filed and sanded for the same result and it worked a treat. Another special tool for the tool box...

The primary chain which was in there was 'in spec' and actually measured the same 21 pin length as the new Renold chain. Attached is a photo of the original; it is either 'Rolon' or 'Olon' preceded by an encircled 'R' for registered trade mark. If anyone knows who these chains are made by, I be interested to find out.

One of my previous purchases from HMC (besides the oil filter, O-rings and washers) included a set of replacement Allen key compatible crankcase screws, so I changed the LHS screws during this job.

Something that continues to puzzle me is that following a drain and oil filter replacement, 2 litres of oil takes the reading to the top of the sight glass. The manual states that I should have been able to put in 2.5 litres, so I'm cautiously watching the sight glass.

I didn't remove the RHS crankcase this time because I wanted to change the drive chain, sprockets and cush drive rubbers in one hit.
The leak shown here in the photo, I assume stems from the pesky kick start seal; just as well I erred on the side of caution and bought enough parts to cover most eventualities.

PS
I don't have a small child or dog in the household; those are puppy training pads which are very effective at absorbing all sorts of fluids including oil...