[whitehillbilly]

Went for a Plesant 50 km ride today but was plagued with an Intermittent miss fire.
I believe it to be electrical, happening more under load.
A run up my local range in 3rd and 4th produce miss fires, which improved as I backed off. But a run back up it at the end of the ride it roared up with no issues. At mid-range throttle on the flat, I noticed the miss fire coincided with the Amp metre flicking to zero, but not noticeable at higher speeds.
Back in the shed and wiggling the key did produce loss of power for a moment, so whether this is the problem when things are vibrating? Checked screws on the back of the switch and a squirt of Inox in the hole seems to remove the key issue.
Much easier when things stop working all together.
Will see if things have improved later today.
If no better will change the condenser to see if that helps.

whitehillbilly

[stinkwheel]

Check the ammeter terminal posts are tight too.

[whitehillbilly]

Hi Stinkwheel.
The terminal Nuts are tight but not the posts, so will pull out the ammeter out and have a look.
I have never been happy with the throttle cable position. Moving the handlebars left to right the cable rubs dislodging its light holder. Is it correct, with this run up the right-hand side of the steering head? I taped the cable as it runs to close to the Terminal.
Thanks for comments.

whitehillbilly

[stinkwheel]

My bikes are so far removed from "standard" I'm not really sure what's strictly correct regarding cable routing any more. I personally think cable routing is a very much suck it and see kind of thing but as a general rule, I usually cross them over at the headstock so any cables from the right bar go to the left of the headstock and vice-versa. This generally keeps any curve diameters as wide as possible. It's pretty much the convention with pushbike cables too. That said, if it seems to run more cleanly by another route, I just use that.

I actually find the biggest issue with throttle cables on bullets is getting the line right going down into the carb, it tends to be quite a tight bend to get from under the tank then down onto the carb. If I get any cable binding, that's usually where it's at. Next one I make I'm going to fit a metal bend in the outer at the carb end to ease this issue.

[Raymond]

. . . I actually find the biggest issue with throttle cables on bullets is getting the line right going down into the carb, it tends to be quite a tight bend to get from under the tank then down onto the carb. If I get any cable binding, that's usually where it's at. Next one I make I'm going to fit a metal bend in the outer at the carb end to ease this issue . . .

That has been one of the biggest little bugbears with my Bullet. Throttle can be working smoothly, snapping shut when the grip is released, until I put the tank on. Then it binds, leading to the tick-over racing and so forth. Have tried various cable routing, have tried a metal bend at the start of the cable but that didn't work for me. Might do with the right bit of kit? I've played about with carb placement, leaning it towards or away from the frame to try and ensure the cable isn't trapped. At present I've fitted a shortened 'intake manifold' - piece of radiator hose - to hold the carb forward so the cable isn't leaned on by the rear portion of the tank. Latest incarnation also runs the cable through a 6mm clear plastic tube, cable tied to the top frame tube. Seems to work . . .

[allanfox]

The plastic tube is a good idea.

Mine was the same until it snapped, Hitchcocks only had a longer one in stock (export/trails?) fitted it and never an issue since, you can route how you want rather than where it will.

[whitehillbilly]

I picked up a Universal Throttle cable from my local bike shop.
It is now longer, and the run does not interfere with the amp meter terminals. Also had a little old points spanner set. One fitted on the Amp meter top nut so nice and tight now.
 
whitehillbilly