Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: hortoncode3 on August 31, 2012, 12:57:10 pm
-
So, I see the posts of folks changing out the light for a brighter/more historically accurate head light but for the life of me I really can't see any obvious difference in looks. As far as it being brighter, did the bikes performance improve so much that you were out driving the old light? Please explain..!
Don't rush..I'll be here all day! :P
-
I prefer the look of the full sized lamp with the shade. As for the brightness difference I can't comment as I put the full sized lamp on before I took my bike out of the crate and never even turned the small one on.
-
Huge differance in light output going from the 35W 5-3/4" to the 55/60W 7", and a huge differance in apperance as well. The little light just doesn't look as good with that big trim ring as the 7", which fills the nacelle perfectly.
-
what sold me was the amount of light you could see if you were another vehicle coming head on. The dealer had his (personal) bike 07 deluxe w/ tribar sitting next to my 11 c5 and his light looked SOO much bigger. Yeah I know it's only an 1 3/4" but his light seemed to command so much more attention...
-
Light output is immaterial.
5-3/4" = UGLY
7" = Belongs there
The extra lumen are just a plus !
-
The 7" look WAY better than that cludged together 5 3/4" with aiming armature. I run a 35/35W bulb in it since my charging system can't deal with the 55/60W. Even with the 35W bulb the usable light on the road is tons better than the 5 3/4".
It looks better and you can see better. What more could you want?
The top three first mods I would recommend to any new RE are:
1) new grips, preferable some gel types from Pro-Grip
2) 7" headlight
3) change the stock fork oil for 195ml of 10w fork oil
Scott
-
My stock headlight was terrible, so I put on a 7", first a tribar, and a Sylvania car lamp. the lights were still terrible. A car behind me would blot ut any headlight beam I had. It was like the the light beam just kinda dribbles out in front of the bike and fell to the ground. An old flashlight put out better light.
I fiddled around with the wiring and switches for months off and on, trying to find where I was losing over 1/2 V between the battery and light. still don't know where that was going.
Then my dealer suggested installing relays, so I finally got around to doing that. The relays are controlled by the original wiring with new bigger wiring running from the battery to the headlight. No voltage drop now! I haven't messed with the sotck, but the Sylvania and H4 Tribar put out some decent light now, but the Sylvania has a much better beam pattern than the Tribar. I finally kept the tribar in the bike because it looks better, and I don't ride that often at night anyway.
Bare
-
The top three first mods I would recommend to any new RE are:
1) new grips, preferable some gel types from Pro-Grip
2) 7" headlight
3) change the stock fork oil for 195ml of 10w fork oil
Scott
Scott- Pro-Grip has a bunch of grips - what do you recommend? I'll take any vibration damping I can get... ;)
-
Almost any single density rubber ones will help. I like the 713 myself but it could be a little bulky if your hands are small.
Scott
-
My G5 has a stock sealed beam and I noticed that it had water in it on my way to work one day. I checked it out when I got to work and it had a crack in the glass across the whole face of the lens. The water burnt out the bulb that day. There is no damage or sign of a strike to the headlight assembly. Could the crummy roads here in Virginia Beach have caused this crack? Has this happened to anyone else? At any rate, it gives me an excuse to upgrade to the 7".
-
Sorry to hijack the thread, but I had another question for Scotty on the grips. When replacing the throttle side, what do you do with the molded tabs, grind them down, or are all grips made to fit them?
-
I carved down the ridge on the outside edge a little just to make it easier to get the grip on. Leave everything else. I do put the throttle grip in the freezer overnight and use a sharp razor to carve a space for the conical ridge on the inside of the grip. If you didn't, it would still be fine.
Scott
-
Wish I could see the "before" and "after" 7inch light conversion look...The RE accessories site stinks and I can never get a truly clear versions of just WHAT it's supposed to look like.
-
If everything works right the pictures below show the stock, adjustable, 5 3/4" sealedbeam headlight and the Lucas 7 inch replacement I got from Nfieldgear.
The turn signals in the 7 inch photo were also changed by installing some Nfieldgear metal bullet lights.
-
Thanks! That looks great but now you have me REALLY interested in how you attached the new turn signals..I bought em, still haven't figured out how to hang them!
-
The two front lights bolt directly to the brackets that the existing lights use.
That's why they look like their tucked in close to the front forks rather than sticking out like a sore thumb.
To mount the rear turn signal lights I bought a couple of sheet metal brackets from Nfieldgear by phoning them. They needed a bit of bending to make them work for the way I used them.
Unlike the original turn signals these all metal bullet lights need to be grounded so I added a ground wire to their attachment studs to plug into the wiring harness like the originals.
When doing this I found that the Indian's had switched the wire colors on the short leads from the harness so the black "ground wire" was really the hot wire and the colored "hot" wire was actually ground.
When hooking them up it is a good idea to find out which color wire is the real ground wire and then connect it to the mounting stud. (A cheap volt/ohm meter from Harbor Express works well for doing this and costs about $9.00.)
-
NField Gear has a number of 7" options - sealed beam, non-sealed beam, halogen, different wattages... what's the best choice? I like the look of the tri-bar a lot, but $170 for the light and the conversion kit is just too much for me! What do you guys like?
-
I went with the BPF unit because I like the yellowish day-time pilot bulb. When I turn on the main beam it casts a wide cone of light & with 35/35w bulbs the hi/lo switch dips the light when on LOW and raises it on HI.
It's not for superslab driving in the dark, but, perfect for metro areas with streetlamps & rural roads !
-
I went with the BPF unit ...
Gremlin - sorry, but what is the "BPF unit"?
-
The turn signals in the 7 inch photo were also changed by installing some Nfieldgear metal bullet lights.
Bit of a thread hijack, I know, but... Arizoni, are the NField Gear Bullet Turn Signals you installed the "regular" ones or the "2-inch stem" ones? It's a really nice look!
-
BPF = British Pre-Focus
It is a reflector/Lense assembly with P38D bulbs (vacuum ) and a separate T-9 pilot lamp offset from focus to illuminate the lense.
-
I have a Tribar in mine because I like the looks of it. I had a Sylvania $13.00 sealed beam in it, a much better light.
Either way, you need to get the overpriced 7" lamp adapter.
But for the light, you can go quality or style.
I seldom ride at night, so I don't worry about it too much, at last since I got the brightness of the lights up to where they belong. Different thread for that one.
Bare
-
+1. Just cough it up and get the 7" adapter, then you can put in any light you like. I tired to piece it all together for less money from different sources, it's not worth the trouble.
Personally I really like the look of the pre-assembled 7" from NField Gear which has the Minda reflector. It has a very flat face to the front which I like, but an inexpensive 7" sealed beam works just as well.
Scott
-
Either way, you need to get the overpriced 7" lamp adapter.
Seems to me that there's three NField Gear kits that have the adaptor included:
145017/A - Pre-assembled non-sealed halogen, 60/55W - $111
Z90477 - Not pre-assembled, sealed beam, 60/50W - $80
Z90447 - Not pre-assembled, Lucas non-sealed beam, no wattage given - $90
Gary at NField Gear suggested the first option as a popular choice, but didn't answer my questions about the differences between them or what the wattage of the Lucas is. I don't need to pay $30 more for pre-assembly - is the sealed beam light good enough?
Scott - the pre-assembled kit description says nothing about a Minda reflector - what is it?
-
Just the brand of reflector.
-
BPF = British Pre-Focus
It is a reflector/Lense assembly with P38D bulbs (vacuum ) and a separate T-9 pilot lamp offset from focus to illuminate the lense.
Gremlin- I took my headlight off today, and found two wires with connector ends dangling loose inside the assembly. Are these power for the pilot bulb?
-
yes.
-
mattsz
The Z90447 - Not pre-assembled, Lucas non-sealed beam, no wattage given - $90 headlight uses a "pre focused" Lucas 40w (low), 50w (high) beam bulb.
These bulbs are not made or marketed by any US company and the only place you can buy one is on the web or from Nfieldgear. (It took Nfieldgear over 9 months to deliver my back up replacement bulb). The bulb is a #414 on the box and I found a British web site that listed it as a LLB414 if you want to go exploring on the web.
The bulb that comes with the light is designed for British use so it lights up the road on the left side, just forward of the bike when it is on low beam.
It is an authentic old style British headlight and bulb which is probably the same as the original Bullets used but if I were to do it over again I think I would just buy a 7" sealed beam style.
-
The pre-assembled one uses a standard H4 bulb available just about anywhere.
Scott
-
Arizoni -
What about the flutes in the lense ? The first 7 incher I bought was a minda with a left-side beamlet created by the lense (not the bulb ).
The reflector/lense unit I am currently using I got from bulletwala. It has a uniform flute pattern & illuminates in a balanced fan pattern.
-
Durned if I know. I haven't looked at the lens pattern and I'm not sure I would know if I did.
I did just find some further information about the number though.
Says a Google link, "Lucas part number LLB414 is for right hand drive (RHD) cars. Lucas part number LLB415 is for left hand drive (LHD) cars and is $10 apiece. Please specify."
http://jollyrogersmotors.com/node/364
That seems to say I should be either using #LLB415 for riding in the US.
At one time I also came across this series of headlight bulb that was a "centered" light pattern for motorcycles but I can't find it now.
-
Here is an exercise in headlamp purchasing:::
This first lamp is the "catseye" pattern that I would love to find in a 7 inch glass... it projects a nice fan, with a central spike.
-
This next lamp is the one I currently use. it projects a nicely balanced fan of light - it appears as a horizontal rectangle of light.
-
This last lense is a Lucas 7 incher. Notice the asymetry in the upper left hand corner.
-
and here is a Bosch H4 unit for the U.S. market. Notice the lense asymmetry in the right side ....
-
This is the most aptly named thread I've seen in a while :)
-
The Sylvania I have has the cat's eye and seems to be well centered.
Bare
-
Bare,
Do you have any specific information on the Sylvania bulb that you referenced (part number, etc.)?
-
This is the most aptly named thread I've seen in a while :)
Yes it is ! 8)
-
Bare,
Do you have any specific information on the Sylvania bulb that you referenced (part number, etc.)?
Yes, please do share !
-
I have the 7" Lucas lens with the asymmetric upper left hand area in the lens.
I assume this is to provide a broad, direct light patch to the left side of the motorcycle while the light towards the right side would be diffused?
This would typically be used in England where they drive in the left hand lane with the curb/sidewalk on the left side.
In any event, I seldom ride at night and on the times I have, the oncoming traffic has not flashed their headlights indicating they are unhappy with my light shining into their faces.
-
So I was out for a cruise last night and took some darker roads. All this talk got me wondering about my Minda headlight a bit. Well I went down some dark back country roads and wouldn't you know it, there's a big dark corner missing from the light pattern in the upper right area on low beam. It seems the Minda is made for left side of the road driving. Takinf a look tonight I don't see 'DOT' anywhere on the lens.
No one has ever flashed their brights at me. Ice has told me that European lights throw their beam lower on the road, whereas US light throw it a bit higher to illuminate street signs. Maybe that's why I'm not blinding anyone coming at me.
All that said, still sooooooo much better than stock.
Scott
-
Neither my Lucas headlight or my all metal bullet turn signals have DOT certification. :)
It's another of my rebellions against against dictatorial Government agencies showing. ;D
-
POWER TO THE PEOPLE !
-
It's a Sylvania SilverStar H6024.
Bare
-
Neither my Lucas headlight or my all metal bullet turn signals have DOT certification. :)
It's another of my rebellions against against dictatorial Government agencies showing. ;D
+1
I use the most effective hardware available for my safety, and government intrusion be damned.
-
Got my new headlight today: the preassembled kit. Now I get to un-preassemble it to add the "visor". Been reading up on the job on other threads here - I'm not afraid!
It uses a Minda bulb, and has a parking light to, as Gremlin puts it, "illuminate the lense"...
-
I'm with Arizoni on the non-dot rebellion. Converted to the 7" Lucas with foreign glass before the start of last winter and fitted a Sylvania 55/69 halogen bulb )with mods to make it fit) as the original light reminded me too much of my 1972 Mototrans Ducati 250 24 horas headlight which would not excite a glow-worm let alone allow you to see and be seen. Have not had any charging problems and much of my commute driving has been early dark mornings and in winter night time. Maybe that's just luck or perhaps by 2011 Enfield had sorted any charging issues.
-
Pre-assembled 7 headlight kit with visor installed! Had to un-pre-assemble the kit to install the visor, but it was easy pickin's. The lamp is a Minda housing with a parking light which connects directly to the two spare wire ends that were floating in my factory headlight. Parking bulb looks cool, but a bit unnecessary since there really isn't a time I would want just my parking lights on - is there? Don't answer that.
The low beam is literally a brilliant improvement over the stock. The high beam has a distracting triangular dark patch that points like an arrow straight ahead, right where I want light to see. The pic shows the short-range effect - doesn't seem like much of a problem, but stretched out over the road, it's a dark area right where you want to see! Anyone else with this lamp experience this?
-
Looks pretty dark along the curb-line as well !
ride safe out there !!
-
I'd say you're right! I was sitting on the bike on it's center stand - the beam is pointing higher than it does while I'm riding...
-
Yup, low beam is way better, high beam looks as you said. I never use high beam at night, don't need to :)
-
The bright left side and the darkened right side of the lit image looks like it was made for the parts of the world that drives in the left hand lane.
The people in India, England and Oz would like it.
Not so good for the US though.
-
Yes, but in practice it works fine in the US too. I can still see better than I did with stock and no one has ever flashed their lights at me at night when I'm on low beam. Euro spec lights throw their light lower in general. US spec lights are higher to help illuminate overhead road signs.
Scott
-
The high beam has a distracting triangular dark patch that points like an arrow straight ahead, right where I want light to see. The pic shows the short-range effect - doesn't seem like much of a problem, but stretched out over the road, it's a dark area right where you want to see! Anyone else with this lamp experience this?
I have a 7 inch Minda as well. Pattern on mine is nice, shining where I need it on low and high. Mine came from a Royal Enfield Canada. The numbers on the bulb are like this...
On the bottom of the bulb face is
MINDA
51140-615
on the right side of the bulb facing it is a bunch of numbers just below the fan pattern
HCR 50R
00 00
E9 E9 (both in circles)
12.5
1856 1856
Not sure what any of that means, but I like the light it puts out.
oh and the parking light I use when pulling into a lot full of 'that American bike' riders. Seems to make them sigh when they see how stunning the Royal Enfield looks and can be purchased for less than the cost of the exhaust system on their bikes.
-
Lotta numbers - I'll take a look at mine.
I wonder if Gremlin doesn't have a point. Maybe I need to point it down just a bit - get that dark spot down below where I'm trying to see...
-
Desibike , your E9 in a circle means that the component has been approved by Spain for importation into the European Union , just saying.
-
Good to know... Lol just incase I go on a long road trip