Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet Iron Barrel => Topic started by: meilaushi on May 04, 2013, 02:32:22 pm
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I've got about 6000 miles on my iron barrel classic 5 speed (2008). I was wondering how long the clutch cables on these bikes last, and when, to avoid being stuck out on the road with a broken cable, one ought to change the old cable and put a new one on. Any experiences, suggestions?
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Mine broke at the hand lever at about 7000 miles. Not sure if that will be the case for anyone else.
Damon
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They changed the way they hook up in the gearbox on your model so you should be ok for a while longer. You can look at it on the bars to see if it's ok. ERC
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I carry a spare cable in the toolbox for just such an occasion. I have almost 23,000 miles on my 1999 and If I remember correctly, I have changed the cable three times so, approximately every 8000 miles. If the cable ends are well lubricated, the cable seems to last longer. The cables also last longer when the clutch springs are OEM rather than HD.
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I've got over 14,000 on my original cable so far (2000 4-spd). I lube the cable with atf twice a year and grease the lever end and pivot at the same time. I'm still running all my factory cables.
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Hi Ralph - I'm new to Enfields, but old to BSA. For longevity, lube the cable and pivot lead and the lever. I use one of those rubber cable lube attachments that accepts the tube from a can of 'Cable Lube'. Thoroughly lube the pivot with grease. Without the lubed pivot, the lever can turn the cable end against the cable. That really shortens cable life. Later setups added a plastic sleeve in the pivot to prevent the cable end bending.
If you doubt your cable's condition -- you can keep your spare pre-installed and tied to the working cable. When your cable breaks, just connect the ends of your replacement, adjust and you're rolling.
Cheers,
Bill
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Thanks, guys! Your information is a real help. I'll check the cable ends--they don't look bad--just adjusted the clutch as it was getting a bit grabby. I think the info is right that you don't want to keep the bike in gear when stopped at a light as I suspect the clutch throw-out wears. But I was thinking as I had to also adjust the cable that maybe it was getting a bit longer, and when the bike's hot it doesn't seem to throw the clutch out all the way, so maybe I should adjust the clutch when it's hot. But the info on cable life is a real help. Think I'll throw the new one in the saddlebags just in case.
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It's not that your cable is getting longer but that as the clutch plates wear it slowly creates "play" in the cable. Basically as your clutch plates get thinner, the cable needs to be adjusted out to compensate for the missing material on the clutch plates. And it is best to make the adjustments with the engineer at operating temperature.
I should add that cables can stretch, but this is the result of the cable breaking and fraying away from the ball ends.
Scottie
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Very helpful information, Scottie! Many thanks!
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I only had 3000 miles before mine went. On a 2005
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It's not that your cable is getting longer but that as the clutch plates wear it slowly creates "play" in the cable. Basically as your clutch plates get thinner, the cable needs to be adjusted out to compensate for the missing material on the clutch plates.
Scottie
Does it not work the other way ? - as your clutch plates thin you end up with progressively more pushrod than you need, which uses up free play, leading to clutch slip.
Chas
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Scottie
Does it not work the other way ? - as your clutch plates thin you end up with progressively more pushrod than you need, which uses up free play, leading to clutch slip.
Chas
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I have been wrong in the past. But of the last 8 bikes I've owned since I was 13, I have never adjusted a clutch cable IN. If a clutch is slipping you either have the cable adjusted too far out or your clutch plates are worn out. Just my experience.
Scottie
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10000+ miles on my 07 clutch cable.
I have been wrong in the past. But of the last 8 bikes I've owned since I was 13, I have never adjusted a clutch cable IN. If a clutch is slipping you either have the cable adjusted too far out or your clutch plates are worn out. Just my experience.
Scottie
Ehh, on my 95 the clutch is so sensitive I have to adjust it out then in if I let it sit for over a month, after about 20 miles of use it stretches back out and is good after that. Of course we are only talking about .5 to 1 turn at the lever.
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Personally, I think all RE clutches are fair at best. I've been on motorcycles for over 20 years and I've never had a clutch act so retarded. If I move mine any further in it won't disengage. If I move it any further out, it won't engage. Who the hell ever came up with the scissor clutch anyways? They should be slapped. I'll tell you this much. When I rebuild this motor in a couple years, 1 thing I will be looking at is having someone build me a custom clutch.
Scottie
Scottie
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The clutches by Bob Newby are pricey but favored by those who want or need them.
A lower cost alternative would be to have you clutches hub and basket faced and trued like our sister Jeri Danger had done to hers.
http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,5101.msg58191.html#msg58191 (http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,5101.msg58191.html#msg58191)
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I've changed a LOT of clutch cables in my 35,000km of ownership. Worst interval was 2000 or so km. I only use genuine RE parts, but still they stretch, creak like crazy... ::) Disclaimer - I put in a new cable as soon as they start creaking.
Ever since i started using 10w30 in the clutch, the cable seems to be having an easier life.
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3000 mls on a 2010.
Got lucky, was lubing the clutch cable and found only 2 strands left intact at the engine end. Never had a cable do that in just 3000 miles before!
Hitchcocks do a nylon lined brit made cable but it costs over 3 times more than the RE item.
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Wow, that thing is 10+ times the price of what the genuine cable costs here in India. Add shipping cost and it'll be insane. Last cable I bought was for the equivalent of $1.5 U.S. or so (5-6 months back).
How much does the genuine cable retail for in the States?
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The first speed transmissions probably have cables that last the least amount of time due to the geomoetry between the cable and the clutch mechanism. As has been noted here lubricating the cables makes a big difference, espeically at each end. A quick spray of WD-40 at the lever end of the cable will really help to prevent them from corroding from the inside out. This does NOT replace regularly oiling them.
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I find it ridiculous that these cables break so soon. Someone has to make a cable of normal durability. Mine just broke at 6k miles (2007 AVL Electra). My 1988 Yamaha XV250, which I've owned for 25 years still has the original cable...and I've never lubed it.
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My clutch cable made it to 16000 miles going strong. I lubed it when I got it. I think Jack's unlubed one made it to about 12,000. These are both UCEs which have a lot better routing and mechanicals, and should last a lot longer. They still require a little maintenance which doesn't include WD40. Do not confuse WD40 with good cable lubricants. I use Dri-Slide. there are others out there, WD40 isn't on the list...for any lube job.
Bare