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Its easy. 1. Loosen top screw in headlight shell and take off the front part.2.Unplug the H4 and parking light and put aside the front part safely.3.The H4 plug has 3 circuits. The green / white circuit is what we want.This is the low beam circuit. Cut away the black tape about a inch or so behind the H4 plug.4.Now you have 3 wires... cut the green/white back from the H4 plug about an inch.5.You will need about two lengths of auto wire ...and a on/off switch with led light to mount on the handlebar (22mm)...available from ebay,large selection.6.Either solder or use male/female crimp plugs...join the two auto wires to the two cut wires .I soldered and used heat shrink to insulate.7.Wrap the wires in black insulation tape ...then run the loom through the back off the headlight up to the handlebar to where the switch is to be mounted. 8.Connect the two auto wires to the new on/off switch.9.Recheck all ok.The high beam stays as normal...all you need to do now is use the new switch for on/off for low beam when required. Aussie 650
Just be warned that Plod may not approve and they're not known for being in tune with the finer points of motorcycle law. It'd be a bummer to be defected for not having a headlight on, if only because of the hassle of addressing it.[/quoteI'm hearing you loud and clear, matey. Mind you , I'm swapping my blinkers etc for units which are questionable so it's probably a moot point.
How did we get to headlights :-.On that subject though I do not use the yellow flash button here in the US as people think you are letting them go and will pull out in front of you.[/quoteMy aussie bikes flasher's have always just the low beam ( or maybe the high beam?) no difference in colour.
Bad idea, or...?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzKyBSUQfuw
The way to get max performance, instead of max noise, is to drill a series of small holes (1/4") in a circular pattern in the baffles.The procedure I learnt years ago was to pull a hill in a higher gear at a specific speed while noting the RPM. Drill one or two holes in the baffle, repeat and note the RPM, keeping the same speed. If I remember correctly the RPM will increase, continue to drill holes until there is no increase in RPM; then you have max performance, not max noise.However, this was for carbureted machines-not sure it would work with the Interceptor and not sure it is advisable.Point being, don't just drill a whopping big hole in the baffles to start with.I rode an Interceptor with the S & S mufflers, nice gurgle, not too loud. Other than weight reduction, most aftermarket pipes do not increase performance, they just look cool or make a bunch of noise.My two cents worth.Frank
I am keeping the stock pipes intact. Does anyone have experience with the TecBike slip-on mufflers?https://www.tecbikepartsusa.com/Chrome_Slip_On_Mufflers_for_Royal_Enfield_650s_p/re-slip-ch.htm
Upon reflection, I had this backwards. It is hold the RPM and watch the speedo increase at same RPM. It was 25 yrs. ago I did this, worked very well on a Suzuki Madura.
How does the speed at the wheel increase, but the speed of the engine does not?
Still doesn't make any sense. How does the speed at the wheel increase, but the speed of the engine does not?
It's magic! It uses the same principle that causes red bikes to be the fastest. Even painting one red will give it a 3% increase in top speed.
He's apparently a bike journo with 20yrs experience and also a qualified mechanic (based on his other videos), so he almost had me convinced to try. I like the look of the stock pipes but wouldn't mind a bit of a sound enhancement. I also like the idea of being able to completely return things to stock however, so that probably puts me off.
Topic: Exhaust mod (Read 6234 times)