Author Topic: Remove and Paint Fenders  (Read 4603 times)

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hyperhad

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on: June 20, 2014, 11:55:02 pm
Removing and painting the front and rear fenders is a mod I want to try.  The front looks easy enough to get at.  How easy is the back to remove?

I am thinking of using plastic-specific rattle can paint, Krylon I believe.  Glossy finish.  It has been mentioned that some used a spray-on clear coat as well.

Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks.


TheContinental

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Reply #1 on: June 21, 2014, 12:50:13 am
Here's a tip or two.  When you get your fenders off prep them well by cleaning and lightly scuffing.  Comet cleanser with water and a sponge or scuff pad will clean, degrease, dewax and give the new paint a good surface to adhear to.  Secondly, you could take one of your red side covers off and take it down to your local auto body and paint supply stores to have the color matched and they can even load up a rattle can with your color matched red paint.  Show them the fenders you want to paint so they can see the material and show you your options.  They may suggest just a basecoat or a basecoat and clearcoat.

I think the fenders will look good red.
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hyperhad

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Reply #2 on: June 21, 2014, 12:58:13 am
Good suggestion going to an autobody shop for the paint.  They know me well there, as they re-painted every panel of our RX8 when it got keyed when parked on our school parking lot.  I have the side covers off right now to apply some decals from Hitchcocks.  I'll report with pictures when done.


High On Octane

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Reply #3 on: June 21, 2014, 01:07:13 am
+1

You don't want to leave base coat uncoated.  You either need to base/clear or use single stage paint.  Single stage paint is most likely not going to be available in a spray can.  I don't recommend rattle can use on body parts as it isn't s durable as regular auto paint and tends to fade and is difficult to maintain.  The exception is if you clear coat over the top.  I highly recommend UPOL Clear #1 for rattle can clear if you go that route.  It is easy to use and UV resistant, not to mention it dries rather quickly.  Make sure after you scuff the surface that you use either rubbing alcohol  or wax & grease remover with a lint free towel before painting.  This will make sure you don't get any fish eyes or other abnormalities in your finish.


You will need to go to an auto body SUPPLY shop, not a repair shop to get the paint matched.

Scottie J
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gizzo

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Reply #4 on: June 21, 2014, 11:17:17 am
Scottie, you're probably a good person to ask: How does 2k in a rattle can work? I been using HB Body 2K clear to give toy gliders a nice finish. Works great, but doesn't seem to set quite as solid as 2k from a gun, and it's damaged by solvents. It finishes up better than acrylic clear though. The other 2k rattlecans I've seen, you activate the can, the 2 parts mix and you have a prescribed time to use it, but this clear stays good for ages. Any idea what that stuff really is?
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High On Octane

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Reply #5 on: June 21, 2014, 03:31:18 pm
Here's the deal...  Anything that comes out of a can isn't going to be as durable as a 2 part mix you spray from a gun.  This goes for primer as well.  There are good rattle can products out there that do work and bond well, but they will never be AS good as a 2 part mix.  The activator, or hardner, that is used with most  automotive clear coats, primers and single stage paints creates a chemical reaction that not only cures the product, but also makes it hard and resistant against chemicals and fuel.  This is the main reason why I don't recommend rattle can on motorcycle body parts.  It's very easy to spill fuel when filling up, fork seals will eventually leak and hot engine oil is going to eventually leak all over your chassis.  Any and all of these will attack a rattle can paint job.  For example, when I painted the Blackhawk, I sprayed the frame and swing arm with 4 coats of clear and the tank and fender have about 10 coats of clear, factory standard is 2 coats.  The reason I did that is because I planned on riding the hell out of the bike and knew it leaked a lot of oil and that I would be riding in dirt a lot.  The extra coats of clear do 2 things; 1 - It makes it even more resistant to fuel spills and oily messes.  2 - If any scratches or damage were done to paint job, I would have plenty of clear coat left over to wet sand and polish out the damage.

So in short, if you want to do it really right and not have issues down the road, get yourself a small compressor and a paint gun.  Even a cheaper one will give you better results than a rattle can and last longer.  If this just isn't possible, then try and get base coat mixed and filled into a rattle can and use something like the that 2 part mixable spray can clear you spoke of.

If you do have to use rattle can products I highly recommend the use of SEM or UPOL products.  Both are more expensive than your hardware brand stuff, but both of these products are manufactured for automotive use.  ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS CLOSELY!!!

Scottie J
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


TheContinental

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Reply #6 on: June 21, 2014, 04:03:23 pm
Scottie J is right.  I was trying to keep it very simple for hyperhad.  I was also in the paint and body business.  If you don't have one maybe you could rent a compressor and gun?  The materials won't be cheap and you may also need a flex additive for the plastic fenders.  A good automotive paint supply store will tell you about all the reducers and hardeners etc that you will need to mix to the paint and clear.   I just don't know your skill level.  If you are not a little familiar with this it may be overwhelming.  But I'm with Scottie and would like to see it done "right".
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High On Octane

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Reply #7 on: June 21, 2014, 04:22:24 pm
I just get so bummed out when I see someone's "home paint job" turn out like crap.  Most painters take all of their tips and tricks to the grave.  My philosophy is as long as someone is not trying to profit off of what I teach them and is willing to learn, then I am willing to help and teach.  Unless someone is completely clueless and needs to learn body work too, then I charge $100 for a thorough 2 hour lesson.  But I consider everyone here a friend so I try to help out as much as possible, and I don't want to profit off of my friends either.     :D

And I'll throw this out there as well.  If anyone here is wanting to paint their bike but needs a fair amount of guidance, feel free to send me a PM with your phone number and I will be more than happy to walk you thru all the important steps to assure a quality paint job.  :D


Scottie J
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


TheContinental

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Reply #8 on: June 21, 2014, 04:43:23 pm
That's very cool Scottie....... 8).....sharing your knowledge like you do.
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hyperhad

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Reply #9 on: June 21, 2014, 05:03:02 pm
Excellent advice everyone.  Thanks so much.  I think at this point, I will put that mod aside to be done later. I do want the paint job to look good, but I have 0 skills in this area, and definitely do not want to do a job that will not look good, and not last.  I can certainly live with the fenders as they are.  It is great to have access to the high level of knowledge available on the forum. 

Sometimes the best advice on how to accomplish a task is to know when you should not attempt it in the first place.



TheContinental

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Reply #10 on: June 21, 2014, 05:28:26 pm
hyperhad,  I still think they would look good red.  It wouldn't hurt to get some quotes from your local body shops.  You remove and reinstall the fenders.  Good luck..... :)
Current stable:
2014 RE Continental GT
2012 Yamaha Zuma 125
2004 Vespa GT200
1980 Honda CB400 Hawk
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hyperhad

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Reply #11 on: June 21, 2014, 05:46:24 pm
That is an option, as I do like the colour match to the rest of the bike.  I might just give them a call to ask.   

Hitchcocks charges $206.00CAD at today's dollar conversion rate for both fenders, painted red.  Shipping likely around $40.00CAN.  So just under $250.  That might be the way to go.  I'll think about it.


High On Octane

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Reply #12 on: June 21, 2014, 06:20:20 pm
That is an option, as I do like the colour match to the rest of the bike.  I might just give them a call to ask.   

Hitchcocks charges $206.00CAD at today's dollar conversion rate for both fenders, painted red.  Shipping likely around $40.00CAN.  So just under $250.  That might be the way to go.  I'll think about it.

I could paint both fenders for about $200 but I feel like customs would be a PITA.       :-\
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