Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: mattsz on May 03, 2013, 05:50:57 pm
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I searched, but didn't find anything about this...
Since I've got my rear wheel off anyway, I figured I'd change out my tire to the K70 that's been on the shelf for 3 months. I slowly and carefully worked the tire off without any trouble - using aftermarket spoons.
The inside of my rim where the tire bead seats has surface rust:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8pYYzF80tZg/UYPoA5Z1MLI/AAAAAAAABCc/K3400oGpldA/s512/rusty%2520wheel.JPG)
Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Meh, no big deal. Some water always works it's way in there. If you want to clean it up remove the rim band and get some steel wool or a ScotchBrite pad. Get a new rim band too since you're in there.
Scott
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For years I have used a stiff wire brush to get the crusty chunks of rust off, Then I paint some "RUST REFORMER" product on the rusted areas. This is an acid polymer concoction that eats its way into the rust, & dries turning it to its own rustproof coating. You may then paint the inside of the rim. There is a zinc grey primer that is super tough. If you do this the rust will never re-appear. Rust CAN cause inner tube abrasion & flat tires.
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Craig - is that like the "Ospho" we use in the boating world? It's mostly phosphoric acid, but it removes rust stains and "stabilizes" rust. I have some of that.
Is the "zinc grey" primer the color, or does it contain zinc? Do you have a brand name?
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Don't know about Ospho. Harware stores sell the Rust reformer. Auto stores have the zinc grey, I think its for use on pickup bumpers.
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According to Rustoleum who make Rust Reformer, it contains acetone, xylene, limestone, ethylbenzene, talc, solvent naphtha, petroleum distillate, carbon black, butyl acetate. Did not mention any phosphoric acid in it.
For more details, see this link and click on MSDS for PdF file
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGResourceCenter.asp?sn=ms2&msdstyp=PROCBG&msdsprc=40
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OOPS, Old people get confused... The product I have & use is: EXTEND RUST NEUTRALIZER, made by: LOCKTITE &
"Converts rust to a paintable surface" My description was correct, but I got the name wrong. I have it in both paint-on & spray can. Try that-it works!
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Rust Reformer used to be a great product before Rustoleum got hold of it. I used to get it in 5 gallon pails when I had a steel tug. You knocked the loose rust off and painted the surface with Rust Reformer. It converted the iron oxide into an inert ortho phosphate form of iron. Then you could paint right over the black surface and you were good to go for years.
New stuff does not work. It won't even keep my mail box holder from rusting where the dogs pee on it.
Old fashioned Rust Reformer did a great job out in salt water.
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Ok, so can I, or should I, combine any of these product ideas with the bare metal refinishing I'll have to do with my swing arm stud repair job? There won't be any rust, but bare metal for sure - there and also where my saddle bags rubbed through the paint on my fender stays.
Gremlin suggested I use a self-etching primer on bare metal...
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A good primer would be a good way to treat it.
Just make sure it has had time to really dry. You won't want any solvents lingering in the paint to attack your inner tube.
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Any thoughts or suggestions?
..... I've seen people use Duct Tape. Not for me though.
as for the rust-reformer ...... every time I've used it I've noticed sharp points develop on the surface.
I like your idea of knocking it off with a pad. Primer & paint are probably not going to be much help in the long term. Just a quick scrub everytime the tire is off.....
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mattsz - Any product that actually isolates the rust and encapsulates it will work fine. Any of the following will work great as long as you follow the directions: POR 15, acid etch primer, Rust Fix, Extend Rust Neutralizer, rust converter..... If the can says it will turn rust into a black paintable surface (except etching primer) it will work for what you need.
Scottie
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Make sure whatever you use, it is completely dry before you put the tire back on. You may want to be able to get it off again!
Bare
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+10 ^
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I'm getting ready to reassemble my wheel. I've got two paint issues going in two threads, so I've posted question here:
http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,16407.0.html
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I've used this stuff with good results...even on abraded chrome. Should be OK for both of your applications and available at a local auto chain.
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/selfEtchingPrimer/
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I've used this stuff with good results...even on abraded chrome. Should be OK for both of your applications and available at a local auto chain.
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/selfEtchingPrimer/
If you top-coat that with clear, it comes out a really nice "dark army green". (like an ammo can) My fiberglass helmet is done that way.
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Hi mattsz
For the wheel, I'd recommend using a rust converter, but 3 or 4 coats of etching primer will get the job done too. Just as long as you get a good prep (rust removal and cleaning before coating) either of the 2 will sufficiently seal and isolate the rust and prevent it from returning. At least, for quite a while. There is no need to top coat the inside of the wheel as it covered and won't be exposed. The etching primer or rust converter will be good enough by itself.
For the swing arm, you'll need a slightly different approach. First, you will probably want to use a sealer/primer after the etching primer to hide any scratch marks you might leave from sanding. If you're not worried about perfect, the etching primer will suffice. Make sure you remove all the burned paint from the welded area and also make sure you have all the carbon removed from the welds. Use 400 grit sand paper and sand ONLY the area you want to spray. The key to painting this part is going to be hiding your blend line, or where the new paint ends. I'd recommend the whole area of the swing arm leg that was repaired, masking off at the cross bars and ALL the surrounding areas you do not want to paint.
Once you've decided where you want your blend line, clean the prepped area with wax and grease remover, rubbing alcohol, or filtered water with a microfiber. No matter which 1 you use, make sure you have a lint free rag and that it is only damp, not saturated. Now start masking your surrounding areas. Leave your taped edges about 1/4-1/2" away from your blend line. Next, take 3/4" green auto painter tape and now tape all your edges where your blend line is going to be. Leave a "tail" on the end of tape off to the side to make it easy to grab and pull later. Also, mask off your new stud, grease works best to protect it, as paint will cause fitting issues and mess up the threads. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and you're ready to spray!
I also recommend hanging the swing arm to spray it. If you have absolutely no safe place to hang it, prop it up against the wall or something in a fashion that will prevent light spots in the paint. Push comes to shove, hold it by the masked area with 1 hand and paint with the other.
If Using Etching AND Sealer/Primer: Spraying light medium coats - Spray 1-2 coats of etching primer, followed by 2 coats of sealer/primer, followed by 4-5 coats of top coat paint. Allow 8-15 minutes between coats, depending on the temperature ( the hotter the working area temp, the shorter time between coats ).
If Using JUST Etching Primer: Spraying light medium coats - Spray 3-4 coats of etching primer, followed by 4-5 coats of top coat paint.
If you are clear coating over the top, spray 2-3 medium coats of clear over the top coat.
NOTE: YOU ONLY NEED TO PRIME THE AREAS THAT ARE SHOWING BARE METAL. IT IS BEST TO SPRAY THE BARE AREAS WITH PRIMER AND SLIGHTLY EXTEND PAST THE AREA THAT IS BARE BY ABOUT 2-3". THIS WILL HELP REDUCE YOUR BLEND LINE WHEN THE JOB IS FINISHED.[/b]
Once the final coat of paint has been applied, wait 10-20 minutes until the paint looks pretty dry, but not completely. Now go back to all the taped edges you layed out for your blend lines, grab the tails and very carefully pull the tape at a 90 degree angle AWAY from the painted area. You're done! Let it dry for at least 12 hours before handling, 24 hours is best ( you don't want finger prints in your paint ;) ).
DON'T FORGET TO PULL YOUR TAPE LINES!
It will make a serious head ache if you don't.
Scottie
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Thanks Scottie! You've outdone yourself, as usual...
And, I've hijacked my own thread again.
All I'm painting on the swing arm is the plate - the bare metal on each side is a small area, just a couple of square inches around the new stud. The pics show the bare metal circled, and the rest is good paint I've scuffed up.
The outside of the plate:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2dRspezUV6o/UYkZvTHfZGI/AAAAAAAABD4/uc3CAlx2KD4/s500/DSC02902.JPG)
The inside of the plate:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yqLeJHpI5Gg/UYkZvZa2QlI/AAAAAAAABDw/8To2DaiWkVY/s500/DSC02903.JPG)
I'm going to mask the tube at the weld, and just paint the whole plate on both sides. I'm not going to admire my reflection in this job, but I do want to protect everything...
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That looks nice, well done. You are on your way to enjoy the thump ! Great.
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You're golden Matt! Just follow my instructions and limit to just the plate. Your prep work looks good, I bet you won't even notice it when you're done!
Scottie
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If you top-coat that with clear, it comes out a really nice "dark army green". (like an ammo can) My fiberglass helmet is done that way.
Like it ! .... It also reminds me of the color they painted the inside of cock pits on old WW2 aircraft and such.
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......The pics show the bare metal circled, and the rest is good paint I've scuffed up......
The pics also show a first class job with the MIG. Good work !
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+1
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Nice work, compliment your welder!
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Nice work, compliment your welder!
I have done, with direct quotes from this thread! A well-spent 30 bucks I say!