The Hitchcock caps appear to be the same caps with custom machined discs/ plugs that sit down inside the spacer tubes therefore allowing the full length spacer tubes to be retained , they also restrict adjustment from +2mm to +13mm , which is about the max extra preload you can apply to the standard springs and still achieve sufficient static sag.
Mounted the Hitchcocks preload adjusters today. Maybe somebody is interested in my experience.
Note that this may not necessarily work this way on every 650 twin, but it did work perfectly on my bike. This is not a fitment instruction, Hitchcocks has an instruction PDF on their web site.
Prepare:
1. I put the bike on the main stand, and put additional support under the engine so the front wheel lifts up and there is no load on the front fork.
2. Unmounted handle bar.
3. Slightly loosened the 2 bolts of the top yoke that clamp the fork legs.
4. Removed original fork leg caps (use proper tools, these are made from aluminium).
Mounting:
1. The recessed part of the adjuster plug goes fully into the spacer tube, holding the tube nicely in place, see photos. The collar of the plug sits on the spacer tube. Because the collar is slightly thicker than the original washer, you get an additional preload of just under 1mm with the adjuster set to minimum (full up) position. That's close to same as original without preload adjuster.
2. Used a long 27mm socket with T-handle to screw in the preloaders. The fit and finish of the parts is flawless.
3. Fixed the preloaders with a torque wrench at 20Nm.
4. Fastened the top yoke bolts with 20Nm.
5. Mounted the handle bar back on and also fastened the screws with 20Nm. Note that there is enough room between adjuster screw and handle bar even with preloader set to minimum (full out) position, no handle bar raisers required.
Adjusting:
1. Hitchcocks recommends a bi-hex 12mm ring spanner. However that will not go over the adjuster screw on the Interceptor with a normal handle bar, this would only work on the CGT. Never mind, a standard 12mm spanner works perfectly fine, see photos.
2. Adjusted the preload to just above 7mm.
3. Set the rear shocks preload to 3rd notch.
Installation of the preload adjusters was a breeze - although I took my time, read the manual and took photos in between it took less than an hour.
So what difference does it make? All difference in the world from my point of view:
• That nasty jiggle on the front end is gone. With the original fork caps I always had the feeling the front wheel is constantly bouncing, even on new plain roads. This now feels tight, yet comfortable.
• The fork irons out small bumps and bad gully covers as if they weren't there.
• Nose diving when using the front brake is much reduced.
• Overall the suspension feels way more confidence inspiring, especially in bumpy back road corners.
• Bike goes round corners more easily.
• And one thing that surprised me: When riding over longitudinal grooves the bike does no longer lurch like a drunken sailor. You still feel the bike would like to follow the groove, but without that nasty behavior from the suspension. You can convince the bike easily to go straight ahead now. This are still the factory Pirelli SportsComp tires.
Let me know our thoughts.
Topic: Fork preload adjusters (Read 27778 times)