[Jako]

Preload spacers made a huge improvement to my forks, 18mm spacers achieved 32mm rider sag . I have now fitted heavier springs but could have lived with the originals once preloaded .

[Farmer_John]

The front forks on my GT650 are a bit soft. So today I put an extra 10mm of oil in each leg and 3 washers in each leg. Washers are 37mm in diameter and 2.5mm thick. Seems much better now with that extra pre load. See how it goes.

Ok, how did you measure the oil height?  with/without spring, fully compressed/extended. raising the oil height will succeed in making the spring rate more progressive (less prone to bottoming). Too high an oil height will cause hydrolock and the fork will lose it's compliance. Preload only effects ride height.  Spring rate will not change unless you're binding the spring (removing it's ability to compress).

With the simple damper rod controlled fork, it's always going to be a bit more rudimentary than a "cartridge fork" with it's shim stacks and ability to adjust the movement of the fork.

There are several companies out there that manufacture either drop in cartridges or "emulators. Matris, Race Tech...Ohlins ($$$) that could solve issues in the forks and can suggest what to do at the back as well.

[olhogrider]

Twocoolgliders I think you should put your bike on the market asap. The sooner you sell it the less money you will lose. You obviously don't like it so the sooner it is out of your life the happier you will be.

Nailed it. SELL NOW! How many miles are on the bike? Will you take $3000 for it? Any money you spend on suspension will be lost when you sell it.

[twocoolgliders]

Mine is a 2020 model with the new style rear shocks...




Cookie

I cannot say if this may have any bearing on the matter, but a couple of weeks ago an article titled, "Royal Enfield 650 Twins get rear suspension upgrade free of cost – Report", appeared in the Indian online press. You can read it at: https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.indianautosblog.com/royal-enfield-650-twins-rear-suspension-upgrade-p317278/amp

According to the article, "Gaadiwaadi [an Indian vehicles blog] reports that the 650 Twins owners have received a new rear suspension with built-in rubber buffer. The report adds that only the motorcycles from the first lot did not have the built-in rubber buffer and their owners can have the rear shock absorber changed free of cost from an authorised Royal Enfield outlet. Do note that there has been no announcement from Royal Enfield about any such part replacement exercise."

So, I dunno...Maybe one should reach out to one's dealer and ask your doctor if rubber baby buggy bumpers might be right for you.

How Bilgemaster taking the high road on "bouncy visuals" might appear

[rowdyyates]

Ok, how did you measure the oil height?  with/without spring, fully compressed/extended. raising the oil height will succeed in making the spring rate more progressive (less prone to bottoming). Too high an oil height will cause hydrolock and the fork will lose it's compliance. Preload only effects ride height.  Spring rate will not change unless you're binding the spring (removing it's ability to compress).

With the simple damper rod controlled fork, it's always going to be a bit more rudimentary than a "cartridge fork" with it's shim stacks and ability to adjust the movement of the fork.

There are several companies out there that manufacture either drop in cartridges or "emulators. Matris, Race Tech...Ohlins ($$$) that could solve issues in the forks and can suggest what to do at the back as well.

I just guessed with the oil after reading other threads. I will do them properly at the weekend. Seems fine now though. Back is OK on the highest pre load setting. And maybe the one down. I weight 190 lbs. I really like the bike.

[twocoolgliders]

$3000?    sure its a deal...but just like the dealer...add dealer prep, destination charge, tax, mv fees, insurance, roadside extra assistance etc...yours for $7K....deal of the century!

Really though...If someone made a "reasonable" offer, I would certainly sell it....but "reasonable" means different things to different people.  Right now, what I would consider reasonable is far to close the the "new" price, that I don't see anyone making me that offer.

So you see, I'm in a pickle.

But I entered into this knowing full well, and completely expecting, there to be major "issues"....so I got what I expected....

I have other bikes.....I'm not broke.....so this will become a "project"....whatever!


Cookie

Nailed it. SELL NOW! How many miles are on the bike? Will you take $3000 for it? Any money you spend on suspension will be lost when you sell it.

[ceekay]

following with interest. disappointing but I really hope you get it sorted. I may be going down the same path twocool. It's a beautiful bike.

[twocoolgliders]

I'm by no means an "expert" on suspension...(as you can plainly see)...but I am rapidly becoming one!

How did you determine that the highest preload was best for you , your weight, your riding style?

The "experts" say you set the preload by determining the "sag"....based on your weight....

Should be 25% to 30 % of the total travel...

22 to 26 mm

Seems like 190 pounds is not all the heavy to need to require full preload....I would figure maybe full preload with two up riding at gross weight....this bike is capable of 411 pounds total payload!


Cookie

I just guessed with the oil after reading other threads. I will do them properly at the weekend. Seems fine now though. Back is OK on the highest pre load setting. And maybe the one down. I weight 190 lbs. I really like the bike.

[rowdyyates]

Hi.

I am not an expert but the ride just feels better with full preload. I am probably way off with regards to SAG but I don't race the thing or use really bad roads so I cant really tell.

[twocoolgliders]

First. Thanks to the couple of guys who have sent me PM's...with actual good and useful information.
( I know that some of you others are just ball busting....cool!)

So I have been watching hours of youtube videos on suspension set up and tuning.....

Using the recommended method of testing fork rebound.....the RE650 is set just about perfect!  (there is no way to adjust preload, and no way to adjust compression....but even if I installed a fancy cartridge system, I would end up with the same rebound setting....)

One thing that I did pick up from a video is that the rear shock rebound and the front fork rebound must match...you don't want the front end rebounding first, and the rear following a bit later...

IMHO...the rear shocks are rebounding quite slowly.....so if they were adjustable...I would speed them up to better match the front.....

So my next step is probably going to be getting some adjustable rear shocks...

I have identified the symptoms...but I don't know enough to determine the cure....so unfortunately I have to use the "shot in the dark approach"...changing one thing at a time...and hope I find the solution...

Cookie

[twocoolgliders]

Well if it feels good...do it....

Generally for racing you would use a higher preload, because of the extra load applied in sharp curves.  (you don't want to have the suspension bottom out) Some racers need to install heavier springs for this reason....For road riding one would typically use a bit less preload.....

All of the youtube suspension guys go through a long and detailed scientific approach...but then always end up with an actual road test for final feel adjustments...

Cookie

Hi.

I am not an expert but the ride just feels better with full preload. I am probably way off with regards to SAG but I don't race the thing or use really bad roads so I cant really tell.

[rowdyyates]

Hi.

It just feels right. I may measure the Sag if I have time and get back with the results on here.

Thanks.

[Farmer_John]

Hi.

I am not an expert but the ride just feels better with full preload. I am probably way off with regards to SAG but I don't race the thing or use really bad roads so I cant really tell.

Ok.  So by increasing your preload, you are reducing your sag and increasing your ride height.  Again, this will not change the spring rate one ounce.  It will not keep the bike from doing the bouncy bouncy thing others have mentioned.  It will not keep the suspension from harshly bottoming out.

If you want control over the performance and ride quality of your bike, you must be able to control the damper itself.  The balance of how quickly a shock will compress or rebound is the real work of a shock assembly.  Too little damping in either direction wil cause that bouncy ride, too much will cause the damper to pack up, as it's orifices are too small or the oil too heavy to react.

Honestly, the spring is really only along for the ride to hold the bike up.  To maintain ride height.

So, IMHO, if you think the bike's suspension sucks, the only way to fix it is to modify it through open it up and modify it or replace it with something that will work for you.  As it sits, your fork is rebuildable.  Those pretty shocks are not.

Race tech has springs and emulators for your forks.  They also have the knowledge to guide you how to setup and use their products to improve your crappy suspension.  it'll cost you around 350.00 for the products, but if it alleviates your issues...  They could also be able to build you rear shocks that'll fit your bike and you.  Expensive, but again, that's what they do.

I'll leave y'all with this.  Even guys who buy nearly race ready bikes for double or triple the cost of an Enfield, will spend thousands dialing in their suspension to suit them.  Everything is a compromise.

[rowdyyates]

My suspension is ok. I have just made it feel better than it was. Mainly trying to prevent it topping out.

[GSS]

The suspension overall is fairly decent and I don’t intend to change mine.  No downside to replacing the oil in the forks as that has sorted out numerous problems with unequal oil levels and strange fluids in the C5s in the past.

All of us continually tinker with the bikes so different springs etc. for the front, and trying Hagons or whatever anyone’s favorite shocks might be for the back is part of the fun.