Author Topic: Suspension is crap  (Read 52816 times)

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Heavy Duty Mick

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Reply #105 on: July 11, 2020, 07:58:01 am
There is an Andreani fork cartridge kit available for our bikes

Misano Evo Cartridge Kit. Part Number 105/RE3E

The complete 20mm cartridge with hydraulic adjustment and spring preload for original fork (OEM), developed by the Andreani Group, is equipped with a sophisticated hydraulic system that ensures the adjustment in compression, extension and preload of the spring, with adjustments placed directly on the upper cap of the cartridge in order to guarantee easy access to the set-up.

Along with a good pair of shock absorbers with compression and rebound dampening adjustment, this is what I'll be fitting to my Interceptor.



Starpeve

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Reply #106 on: July 11, 2020, 08:16:38 am
I must’ve just got lucky( which is most unusual, let me tell you!). Mine just bounces once, and at 80 kg second to top shock setting, front and rear is in nice balance on my GT. I wonder if there’s a difference In prep between bikes with different export destinations?
Just saw my first RE650 "in the wild" at bike nite last night.

It was a black...with lots of accessories, side cases etc. (weight) , and a 250 lb rider!

He put extra pressure in the tires....rear shocks to the most pre-load setting...

He says the forks bottom out regularly...looking to get some adjustable pre-load set up....

I sat on the bike and pushed down the front end and let go...I got three rebounds....exactly like my bike!

Should go down..rebound up...and stay....

He also complained about the front tire "kicking out" in a turn...I get this from time to time.  Tire is not staying on the ground!


So I don't think the front end being crap is just my bike...2 for 2 so far!


My bike is now in pieces in the garage....fork legs are in the suspension shop...fully adjustable cartridges going in probably this coming week, or next...


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Roshiba777

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Reply #107 on: July 11, 2020, 09:14:36 am
Does weight of fork oil has anything to do with it as my interceptors both front forks have oil leak while replacing fork oil seals should i change to any specific weight of oil as my weight is 80 kg
Royal Enfield CI 500 (2000)
Royal Enfield STD UCE 500 (2010)
Royal Enfield Classic 500 (2011)
Royal Enfield Classic Chrome 500 (2011)
Yamaha RD350 (1988)
Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 (2019)


NVDucati

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Reply #108 on: July 11, 2020, 12:16:18 pm
Does weight of fork oil has anything to do with it as my interceptors both front forks have oil leak while replacing fork oil seals should i change to any specific weight of oil as my weight is 80 kg
Yes, the viscosity (weight) does matter. You are asking for a specific recommendation for a somewhat subjective question. So while there are wrong answers _ there is no universal, single right answer. But I'm willing to offer one, below.

Weight matters as a finer point of the ride quality. As a rule, the first choice is to get a quality brand oil because some times some companies just re-lable various lubricants as fork oil. Also, as you may have read, different companies use different numbering systems. That can drive you mad.

Once you have established a reliable brand that you can get on a consistent basis _ stick with that brand so that over time you can dial into exactly what works for you and the road surfaces and pace that defines your needs.
Pick the weight in the middle of the range they offer. At 80 kg (177lb) you are in the middle. Example; if the choices of brand "X" available to you are 5, 7.5 and 10 … pick 7.5 if they offer 5, 10 and 15 … pick 10. You'll be fine.
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Starpeve

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Reply #109 on: July 11, 2020, 12:28:00 pm
Yes, the viscosity (weight) does matter. You are asking for a specific recommendation for a somewhat subjective question. So while there are wrong answers _ there is no universal, single right answer. But I'm willing to offer one, below.

Weight matters as a finer point of the ride quality. As a rule, the first choice is to get a quality brand oil because some times some companies just re-lable various lubricants as fork oil. Also, as you may have read, different companies use different numbering systems. That can drive you mad.

Once you have established a reliable brand that you can get on a consistent basis _ stick with that brand so that over time you can dial into exactly what works for you and the road surfaces and pace that defines your needs.
Pick the weight in the middle of the range they offer. At 80 kg (177lb) you are in the middle. Example; if the choices of brand "X" available to you are 5, 7.5 and 10 … pick 7.5 if they offer 5, 10 and 15 … pick 10. You'll be fine.
Sage advice. What are your thoughts on altering oil volume?
I’d rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy...


Starpeve

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Reply #110 on: July 11, 2020, 12:32:10 pm
Below is part of a review from "motorcycle.com"

They quickly discovered that the RE 650 suspension is AFU  !!!


The Royal Enfield’s boingy ride is clearly contributed to by the lack of rebound in the fork. I’m less clear about what is going on in the rear. In a late night discussion with another journalist that had us outside the hotel bouncing an Interceptor on its suspension, he attempted to convince me that the back end was actually packing (i. e. not extending quickly enough from bump to bump, resulting in less available suspension travel).  While the suspension forces we were able to generate by hand did have the back of the bike uncompressing much slower than the front, the sensations I’ve gotten from the seat told me that, after high-speed compression, the back rebounds too quickly. Clearly, I need to get some more seat time on this bike to be sure. However, I feel that the fact that I’m having this internal debate at all points to how well the suspension on the Royal Enfield Twins works for bikes in this price range
The author’s last sentence would seem to suggest that his opinion is otherwise
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NVDucati

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Reply #111 on: July 11, 2020, 05:50:27 pm
Sage advice. What are your thoughts on altering oil volume?

I would tend to use the standard OEM volume as a constant. Not because that may end up being the exact best volume for a particular rider, geography and style but, as we all know, if you change more than one thing at a time ....
Later on you can dial that in.
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Roshiba777

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Reply #112 on: July 11, 2020, 06:10:10 pm
Liqui moly comes in 5wt 7.5wt 10wt and 15wt should i go with 10wt fork oil
Royal Enfield CI 500 (2000)
Royal Enfield STD UCE 500 (2010)
Royal Enfield Classic 500 (2011)
Royal Enfield Classic Chrome 500 (2011)
Yamaha RD350 (1988)
Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 (2019)


NVDucati

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Reply #113 on: July 11, 2020, 06:40:09 pm
Liqui moly comes in 5wt 7.5wt 10wt and 15wt should i go with 10wt fork oil

Either 7.5 or 10. Go with your intuition. It seems that your question suggests the 10wt.
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olhogrider

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Reply #114 on: July 11, 2020, 09:25:53 pm
http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html

The number each oil company labels it with are only valid for that company. Look at this chart, pick a brand that is available to you and choose a weight within that brand. One company lists a 2.5 that is heavier than another company's 10.


Starpeve

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Reply #115 on: July 11, 2020, 11:43:52 pm
I would tend to use the standard OEM volume as a constant. Not because that may end up being the exact best volume for a particular rider, geography and style but, as we all know, if you change more than one thing at a time ....
Later on you can dial that in.
It would seem that you have a deep well of long- term experience so I , for one, value your posts. Do you think there’s much change of buggering the fork seals by screwing about with the volumes?
Cheers Steve
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Starpeve

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Reply #116 on: July 11, 2020, 11:48:27 pm
In theory you are right, we learned that K is a constant. But like a lot of stuff in physics, it is a convenient simplification to base theories.

I did some testing while trying to understand how supposedly similar rated springs acted differently when aging and preloading them, and found spring rates are actually never constant; the more they are loaded, the more their rate increase.

To my knowledge there is ONE spring maker in the world that makes nearly constant rate springs: swift. I have not yet tried them, but it clearly is the next modification i will do on the race car. They are not expensive either and can do custom work, so if you are looking for a spring change, you might want to get some from them.

I did not make a write up of my experiment but someone else made a similar testing, with a dyno spring (my testing involved various weights, and a ruler, not a dyno). You can find it here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/157535-swift-springs-dynoed.html
Excellent article. Explains a lot quite simply.
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Starpeve

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Reply #117 on: July 11, 2020, 11:55:52 pm
Preload spacers made a huge improvement to my forks, 18mm spacers achieved 32mm rider sag . I have now fitted heavier springs but could have lived with the originals once preloaded .
May I ask how much you weigh? In Kg if possible?
Ta, Steve
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NVDucati

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Reply #118 on: July 12, 2020, 03:12:47 am
It would seem that you have a deep well of long- term experience so I , for one, value your posts. Do you think there’s much change of buggering the fork seals by screwing about with the volumes?
Cheers Steve
Thanks for the comment but to put in perspective ... weight it against the many posts I don't reply to because I don't have a clue. ;)

There is a point, I suppose, that if you really overfill and with the pressure it could become an oily mess. The seal part that touches the fork tube would spew but the outer diameter is hard and held in with a metal "cir-clip".

But I think your question was will a little too much damage anything. No.
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Starpeve

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Reply #119 on: July 12, 2020, 07:31:46 am
Thanks for the comment but to put in perspective ... weight it against the many posts I don't reply to because I don't have a clue. ;)

There is a point, I suppose, that if you really overfill and with the pressure it could become an oily mess. The seal part that touches the fork tube would spew but the outer diameter is hard and held in with a metal "cir-clip".

But I think your question was will a little too much damage anything. No.
That’s good enough for me! When I put my adjuster caps on I may measure the air gaps to make sure they’re even then chuck in 10 cc’s of extra oil as an experiment ( after evaluating the caps by themselves!). Not cos I have to. Just cos I can. I need to know!🤪
I’d rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy...