[Arizoni]

If it has spark, fuel and compression it must be close to starting.

My next plan would be to make sure it is getting some fuel.
Assuming some is in the carburetor bowl I think I would use the method I had to use on my old lawn mower.
That involved sticking one end of a piece of small vinyl tubing down about an inch (25mm) under the gasoline in a gas can and putting my finger over the open upper end.  I would then stick the gas filled end into the mouth of the carburetor and remove my finger from the upper end. 
Once "primed" like this, one pull on the starter rope would fire it up every time.

You might try something like this after getting access to the mouth of your carburetor.
If you don't want to try this, you might put your hand over the mouth of the carb and then kick the engine thru a few attempts to start it.   Don't worry about fixing the fuel/air mixture until you actually get it to run for at least a few "chugs" before it dies.

If the engine "kicks back" badly when you try to start it, the ignition  points might be out of time.  It's better for the kick starter and for your leg if the timing is slightly retarded so it's firing at top dead center or even a little after TDC.

[Bilgemaster]

When you say it has "spark", does that refer to the points or at the spark plug, with its threaded part held against the head or cylinder? Just wanna be clear.

[ddavidv]

Spark at the plug, so there is ignition.
Any fuel getting into the cylinder? Can you smell gas or does the plug get any dampness on it? If not, no fuel.

Maybe give the carb a 'rap' with the handle of a screwdriver a few times to see if the float is stuck.

[Stogierob]

UPDATE:

Points (point?) seems to be doing the right thing.  we (youngest is actively involved in this project) managed to get it to thut, thut, thut, thut this afternoon.  I had the plunger on the carb up for a while.  when it put it down, the bike seemed to want to start.  we did also get one backfire.

Other problems we encountered - she doesn't want to shift through the gears.  Youngest got it into 4th a few days ago.  today, we couldn't get it back to neutral.  somehow, he managed to get it back to neutral after about five minutes of trying.  even he's not really sure why it shifted.  and I'm not sure this is a problem, but sometimes the kickstarter just swings through while other times it's clearly building compression and wanting to start.

What should I be looking at next?

Thanks
Rob

[mrunderhill1975a]

I would check timing. I use a static light, but the method in the link below would also work.

https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pictures/content403/bullet_ignition_timing_points_16-08-17.pdf

Concerning the shifting problems, if the wheel is not turning, it is sometimes difficult to get the gear box to shift, I wouldn't worry about shifting until you get the engine running.

The info below was from Kevin Mahoney in a 2007 post on this board:
"Starting the Royal Enfield Motorcycle

This procedure really works.  Anyone large or small, novice or experienced can do this, it is REALLY IMPORTANT that you follow the instructions they do make a difference. It will take longer to read this than it will to do the procedure, but please read it all.

1. Make certain that the "kill" switch is in the "on" or "run" position. This switch is located by the throttle, on the right side of the bike. (Sounds dumb, but I have missed this step more than once myself).

2. Turn the fuel tap to the "on position". Make sure that there is plenty of fuel in the tank. When the arm of the fuel tap is pointing toward the ground it is on. When it is horizontal it is in the "off" position. When the arm points upward it is in the "reserve" position.

3. If the engine is cold, push down on the gold colored choke lever. It is located on the right side of the bike about where your knee is. On the Lean-Burn engines such as those found in the Electra the choke is a knob that needs to be pulled out.

4. Engage the compression release. This is the lever on the underside of the left hand handlebar switches (pre-1999 1//2), or just to the right of the left hand handlebar switches.. It is engaged by pushing it forward (pre-1999 1/2) or pulling it toward you (all other models).

5. With the compression release engaged, kick the bike through 3 times. This "primes" the engine. (Optional, but I think it helps a cold engine)

6. Turn the ignition switch on by turning the key to the right.

7. With the switch turned on, choke on, the throttle closed, and the compression release engaged, gently move the kick start lever and note the movement of the ammeter gauge. (*For those of you with Electronic ignition bikes like the Electra see below). It will deflect to the left and then come back to the center. As you slowly turn the engine over, watch for the ammeter to deflect to the left. Now move it a little more until it just comes back to the middle. This middle position means that the piston is poised exactly where it should be for starting.

8. Now the moment of truth. Release the compression release lever and kick the bike through. When kicking, strength is not the key. A small woman can start the bike with the correct technique. The key is a long kick with good follow through. Kick it until the top of your shoe hits the foot peg. 9 times out of 10,the bike will start in the last 3" of movement.

9. If the engine is hot from being very recently run, you can omit steps 3, 4, and,5 .

10. If the bike doesn't start, repeat steps 7 and 8. (If bike is "hot" do not use the choke, if it is just "warm " you may need it) You MUST position the piston properly through the use of the ammeter.(for all non-electronic ignition bikes) A natural inclination (especially if people are watching you) is to start kicking blindly without using steps 7 and 8. This is a route to total frustration and a complete loss of your manhood.( or womanhood ).

If the bike doesn't start after 3-4 kicks
I use a rule of 4, that is, if it doesn't start after four kicks, (adhering tightly to the steps above) then do something different. If it doesn't start in four kicks, then put the choke in the "off" or up position and try another 4 kicks. If that doesn't work, open the throttle all the way, choke on, and try it. Then if it still doesn't start, try throttle full open, choke off. This usually does it.

*Note for Electra or owners of bikes with electronic ignitions
With an electronic ignition the ammeter will not dip as stated above because it has no ignition points to draw current. Instead you want to move the kickstarter so that the bike is at the top of the compression stoke (not the exhaust stroke). With the decompresser open you will hear a rush of air coming from the decompresser as the piston rises on the compression stroke. An alternative method it to leave the decompresser shut and kick the bike until you meet stiff resistance. Then you must open the decompresser for a moment to relieve the pressure before you attempt to kick start the bike."

[Stogierob]

I'll try that. 

general question for the audience - how far does your kickstarter move before the pawls engage?  I have a non-swivel foot rest on mine and i feel like the kickstarter needs to almost be resting against the back of my leg to get a decent amount of engaged travel from the kickstarter.

Thanks
Rob

[Bilgemaster]

If I understand the question correctly, I'd guesstimate that from it's top resting position at maybe 56 or 57 minutes, if it were a clockface, mine might engage with the pawl at anywhere up to 4 or 5 minutes of downward movement. It varies.

[tooseevee]

If I understand the question correctly, I'd guesstimate that from it's top resting position at maybe 56 or 57 minutes, if it were a clockface, mine might engage with the pawl at anywhere up to 4 or 5 minutes of downward movement. It varies.

      Same here (just a few minutes before midnight) when I use either the straight or the swivel (UCE) kicker. And you want a smooth kick that ends in front of the foot peg as far forward as your leg will allow.

        Yes, I feel the (straight) kicker on my leg when I'm riding. I use it sometimes for extra leverage in a back-up sit choo ashun.
Oh, BTW I rode 20 miles Monday. It all finally fell together. It hurt AWE full, but that's not news

[Bilgemaster]

[...Snip!]       
Oh, BTW I rode 20 miles Monday. It all finally fell together. It hurt AWE full, but that's not news

That's great! Good to hear you're getting out and about on your superb old AVL.

[Stogierob]

If I understand the question correctly, I'd guesstimate that from it's top resting position at maybe 56 or 57 minutes, if it were a clockface, mine might engage with the pawl at anywhere up to 4 or 5 minutes of downward movement. It varies.

My kickstarter is at about 11 o'clock and the pawls don't engage until 9 o'clock.  i hope this isn't something I need to address now.  i've looked at the instructions to replace a pawl and that's just a lot more than I want to get into right now...

Thanks
Rob

[Bilgemaster]

That should be enough to get her sputtering to life, but if you can remove and reset the kickstart lever to a little closer to 12, that might work better for you. It's possible that with a little runtime and resultant flinging of the lube goop around in the case that that pawl assembly may loosen up and start catching a little better and sooner. In fact, most everything will likely benefit from having the cobwebs blown out over a couple-few hundred miles.

[Stogierob]

bilgemaster - that is what I am seriously hoping for...

Rob

[tooseevee]

My kickstarter is at about 11 o'clock and the pawls don't engage until 9 o'clock.  i hope this isn't something I need to address now.  i've looked at the instructions to replace a pawl and that's just a lot more than I want to get into right now...

Thanks
Rob

     You've got to move your kicker (at the knurled shaft) to a more straight up position when at rest. It's not enough of a kick to have it engage at 9:00 o'clock. At least it's not with an engine that doesn't want to start.

      At least then that 9:00 engage point might be closer to 10:00 or 11:00.

[Stogierob]

IT STARTED!!!

and it actually stayed running for more than a little while.  there was lots of white smoke for the first five minutes, but that went away.  several bolts need to be tighten back up now that they rattled loose.  and after it had been running for a while, it would idle for about 40 seconds before it would die.  a little starter fluid was involved to get it turned over, but when it would stall it would kick over without anything other than a bit of throttle.

the kick starter is now at almost 1 o'clock.  it engages at 11 o'clock. 

Again, thanks to all who chimed in!

next post will be for help in identifying the bolts that attach the exhaust down pipe to the bike just in front of the engine.  no clue what happened to those bolts when it remove them from the bike.  i'll include picts.

StogieRob

[Arizoni]

Ah!  The wonders of a starting fluid.