[BuckeyeButch]

While riding today I discovered a sizable oil leak. It is located on the front, lower right around the nut in the middle of the cover in the attached picture. What should I do??

[ace.cafe]

I would put a fiber washer under the dome nut. That will probably seal it.

[Adrian II]

No it won't, Ace, that tappet cover has got a dirty great crack in it! Bin it and fit a new one.

The same tappet cover on my Electra-X also cracked, around the vale lifter spindle boss, and oil p*ssd out of it.

A.

[Arizoni]

I'm not a great fan of using epoxy to patch things up but if that cover was on my bike I think I would get some J-B Weld out.

After removing the cover and thoroughly removing all of the oil from the crack I would work as much of the mixed epoxy down into the crack as possible applying it only on the inside surfaces so people couldn't see it.
While it was still soft I would wipe the sealing surface to keep it clean and flat.  (Acetone, MEK, lacquer thinner or better yet "Disk Brake Cleaner" would do a good job of removing the oil.

After the epoxy cures I would reinstall the cover using a fiber washer like the other guys mentioned above.

[Bilgemaster]

The good news is that a search of eBay for "enfield avl tappet cover" turns up a bunch for not much more than ten bucks, some even with a fresh gasket to boot, and with free delivery. The down side is that they'll have to trundle here in slo-mo all the way from India. Maybe our Forum hosts in Ft. Worth will have one that you could get a bit quicker...Hard to say what with their online Parts Catalog down. But if it were mine, with the superb riding weather on hand, I'd take Arizoni's sage advice, patch up that crack with JB Weld, order the new cover, and swap it out when the new one finally arrives in a month or so. I've had good luck with the vendor "Enfield County" with the odd knicknack. Here is their cover and gasket offering for just $14.39 delivered.

[tooseevee]

While riding today I discovered a sizable oil leak. It is located on the front, lower right around the nut in the middle of the cover in the attached picture. What should I do??

          That cover is cracked because the nut was over tightened. And that blue stuff will never seal it.

          You can fix it if you like as Arizoni suggested and wait for the new one to arrive as Bilgemaster suggests.

           When you get the new one (and the new gasket) the sealing surface will not be flat. Rub it on sandpaper on a flat surface to bring it to flat.

            Use a light coat of something on the (very clean) sealing surfaces (as Arizoni suggests) and not that blue stuff. Don't over tighten the nut.

[ace.cafe]

Sorry, I didn't look carefully enough for the crack, and just suggested the washer.
 

[mattsz]

Maybe our Forum hosts in Ft. Worth will have one that you could get a bit quicker...Hard to say what with their online Parts Catalog down.

The online parts sales of our current and previous hosts were never all that inclusive - it was, and is, always best to call them if you really want to know if they've got a part you need...

[Adrian II]

Part number 814010 if you want to try RE-FW.

A.

[BuckeyeButch]

Okay, now for an update. I found a new tappet cover online at Hitchcock's and received it in only 5 days. The original cover was too cracked to even attempt the JB Weld fix. I cleaned, sanded, scraped and carefully installed the new cover and gasket. Now the frigging bike won't start! It cranks easily, it has fresh gasoline, a new spark plug and putted for a few seconds a few times. Now it just cranks. Any ideas?

[Arizoni]

Is the cam lifter style compression release holding the exhaust valve open?

I haven't had the dubious pleasure of working on a AVL so there might be some sort of special way to position the lever when you put the cover in place.
If the exhaust valve is being held open by the lever, even though the compression release lever on the handle bars is in the "off" position, the engine won't run right.

I'm sure some of our AVL people will tell us if there is something special about assembling these things.

[tooseevee]

Okay, now for an update. I found a new tappet cover online at Hitchcock's and received it in only 5 days. The original cover was too cracked to even attempt the JB Weld fix. I cleaned, sanded, scraped and carefully installed the new cover and gasket. Now the frigging bike won't start! It cranks easily, it has fresh gasoline, a new spark plug and putted for a few seconds a few times. Now it just cranks. Any ideas?

       Relative to what Arizoni has asked you about the decompresor permanently holding the exhaust valve open, it doesn't seem likely, BUT

       (1) Did you have any issues installing the operating lever and cam in your new tappet cover?

       (2) When you pull up on that little lever (with the spring on it) on tappet cover with your finger, does it move up and down?

       (3) When you operate the handlebar lever does the little lever on the tappet cover move up and then down when you release it?

         If (2) and (3) are yes, then I don't believe the cam is jammed into the exhaust valve push rod. If that little lever in moving up and back down freely, I don't think the cam could be jammed.

          But I 'spose anything's possible.

          So. Is your battery really charged up to tip top shape?

          Have you pulled the plug to see if it's wet with gas? Or fouled (dirty black)?

           Petcock?  Kill switch?

          You could also remove the tappet cover altogether and see if it starts.
   

[heloego]

Fuel valve open?Can't tell you how many times I forgot to open it and got the same results you're experiencing. 

[Bilgemaster]

As well as all the other suggestions, try putting the old known working spark plug back in just to rule out your new one being the problem. I got a brand new NGK that was so spell-binding in its malfunctioning right out of the box, with sparks emanating from most everywhere but where they ought at the electrode, that I christened it "Sparky McWhattefuck."  That was my last NGK. From now on it's Champions for me.

[Boxerman]

That was my last NGK. From now on it's Champions for me.

Which Champion plug do you use please? I looked on the European Champion website and RE isn't listed.

Frank

[Bilgemaster]

Which Champion plug do you use please? I looked on the European Champion website and RE isn't listed.

Frank

Currently in my 2005 Bullet 500ES "Iron Barrel" I'm using a Champion N4C instead of the "NGK BR 8 ES" suggested in the Owners Manual. It seems to be running sweetly enough, as shown below after over 4,000 miles (about 6,500 km)--maybe just a tad "rich". However, if you are riding an AVL, Electra or later UCE, you may well need a another grade of plug. There is no shortage of spark plug cross-references online to help you find the right one.

As I have mentioned previously in these Forums several times, I've never had much luck with NGKs. For some reason my Norton twins never failed to kill them dead, usually in just a matter of weeks.

[Boxerman]

Thanks, I'll have a search on one of those sites you linked to.

Frank

[tooseevee]

Currently in my 2005 Bullet 500ES "Iron Barrel" I'm using a Champion N4C instead of the "NGK BR 8 ES" suggested in the Owners Manual. It seems to be running sweetly enough, as shown below after over 4,000 miles (about 6,500 km)--maybe just a tad "rich". However, if you are riding an AVL, Electra or later UCE, you may well need a another grade of plug. There is no shortage of spark plug cross-references online to help you find the right one.

As I have mentioned previously in these Forums several times, I've never had much luck with NGKs. For some reason my Norton twins never failed to kill them dead, usually in just a matter of weeks.

           I know this isn't a spark plug thread so I'll keep this short.

           Just let me suggest that either your mixture is way too rich OR that heat range of 4 isn't right. And no, I don't know.

            The condition of your plug would not make me happy

              https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/NGK_PN/BR8ES         

[Boxerman]

                        https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/NGK_PN/BR8ES         

The recommended NGK for mune is NGK BP6E. That site said "There are 360 replacement spark plugs for NGK BP6ES"

Sorry - don't believe that!

Frank

[Bilgemaster]

The recommended NGK for mune is NGK BP6E. That site said "There are 360 replacement spark plugs for NGK BP6ES"

Sorry - don't believe that!

Frank

Well, you're forgetting the whole Chinese Bongo Dongo and Hung Far Low multi-brand families of quality spark plugs, drill bits and 2-stroke "Pink Dragon" marital aids, putting the bang in your wang or a tune in your poon since "The Four Great Strokes" reforms of 1988.

[tooseevee]

The recommended NGK for mune is NGK BP6E. That site said "There are 360 replacement spark plugs for NGK BP6ES"

Sorry - don't believe that!

Frank

           Why do you find that so hard to believe ? 

[Boxerman]

           Why do you find that so hard to believe ?

I cannot see why Champion, for instance would manufacture this range:

Champion 300, 8415, 9FYSR, N10Y, N11YC, N281YC, N66Y, N79Y, N89GY, N8Y, N9Y, N9YC, N9YCC, N9YCX, N9YX, OE001, OE001/R04, OE001/T10, OE22, OE22/T10, OE109, RN11YC4, UN79Y, stk300, stck302, stk322.

If they were all exactly the same.
And they are not all exactly the same, then they are not all an exact replacement for a NGK BP6E, are they?

EDIT:
Got word back from Champion.eu, they say they have no details of Royal Enfield EFI bikes but by cross referencing, they have come up with Champion OE081/T10

Frank

[Bilgemaster]

Yup...Lotta crapola to unpack there from the good folks at Champion--mostly part number codes for OEM equivalents, variant materials used (copper, platinum, etc.), with or without resistor, and slightly different heat ranges. Despite the ultra-exotic one Champion recommended (i.e., expensive special order), unless you're insisting on uncompromising originality in your restoration of the very last running Romanian-built Dacia Loogie, what you should probably try is Champion's humble N9Y or N9YC (for copper), either or both of which should be readily available from your local auto bits shop for about the price of a pint. Here's a cross-reference of the N9Y TO  other brands listing the NGK BP6ES you mentioned. Just screw one in for a couple-few hundred miles, and then check how it looks. If she's been running well enough and the plug looks good (maybe not quite as dark as mine, but not too white and "melty" either), then there you go. If you're wise, you'll then get a spare for the tool pouch too.

Just a little tip from your Uncle Bilgey: Whenever you're screwing in a spark plug, give its threads a little dab of oil, just a drop or two of kindness from the dipstick is fine, and go REAL EASY on the torque. Nice and easy does it!

The Famous Dacia Loogie Sportiva with Performance Upgrade Kit

[Boxerman]

I remember in the old days 'everything' used an N9Y 

Frank

[tooseevee]

I cannot see why Champion, for instance would manufacture this range:

Champion 300, 8415, 9FYSR, N10Y, N11YC, N281YC, N66Y, N79Y, N89GY, N8Y, N9Y, N9YC, N9YCC, N9YCX, N9YX, OE001, OE001/R04, OE001/T10, OE22, OE22/T10, OE109, RN11YC4, UN79Y, stk300, stck302, stk322.

If they were all exactly the same.
And they are not all exactly the same, then they are not all an exact replacement for a NGK BP6E, are they?

EDIT:
Got word back from Champion.eu, they say they have no details of Royal Enfield EFI bikes but by cross referencing, they have come up with Champion OE081/T10

Frank

             It is no great earth shattering revelation here about the fact that there may be dozens if not hundreds of plugs that are an exact or almost exact replacement for any given plug out there plus the fact that there may be (for example) a plug out there that has Kawasaki's name and part number on it that is exactly the same as some (or even Manufactured by) NGK or Autolite plug you may be cross referencing. There is a lot of homework which must be done nowadays to figure out ANYTHING.

             One of the big advantages of these (and other cross references) is that if you're stuck for plugs in Bumfuque, Tajjerkistan (or Someotherstan) you may find "something" that will work perfectly fine and be OK no matter whose Name or Part Number is on the bloomin' thing.   

              Now I am getting off this thread which is supposed to be about an oil leak.