Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Vintage Royal Enfield => Topic started by: da punds on September 21, 2014, 11:04:00 am
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I have just started my next project a 58/59 trail blazer, I hope to build it using the Ace Roller rocker top end.
I am sure my plans will evolve, but really excited, the build is a blank canvas, as the only bits I have so far are crankcases and a frame.
Kevin
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Is this one of the ones that Hitchcocks brought back from the U.S.? ERC
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No this is from Denmark, don't know how it ended up there.
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Looted by chronologically-challenged Vikings? ;D
Sounds like fun though, keep us posted.
Regards,
A.
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I have just started my next project a 58/59 trail blazer, I hope to build it using the Ace Roller rocker top end.
I am sure my plans will evolve, but really excited, the build is a blank canvas, as the only bits I have so far are crankcases and a frame.
Kevin
Kevin,
Are you going to use the Big Head with our roller rockers on it, or do you plan to use our conversion of the regular Bullet head for the roller rockers?
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Kevin,
Are you going to use the Big Head with our roller rockers on it, or do you plan to use our conversion of the regular Bullet head for the roller rockers?
Ace - The trailblazer is a 700 twin. I assume he's interested in what you are doing to my heads.
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Ace - The trailblazer is a 700 twin. I assume he's interested in what you are doing to my heads.
Doh!
That's right.
Brain fart!
:o
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Some updated pictures.
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Looking good!
Those new heads are gonna be great on it!
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Thanks, still long way to go.
Kevin
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Kevin, the bike looks great so far! I'm glad that the heads are going to a good home. Make sure you replace the factory rods with something stronger. I was going to have steel H-beam rods made, but being that you're in the UK, the Hitchcock rods will probably work fine. Ironic how the heads are going on the same model bike as they were originally intended. :)
Not sure where you are going with your build, but it looks like you may have a BTH ignition on there so I assume you are not worried about staying stock/original. If so, get rid of the fork shrouds. They rattle really bad and mark the fork tubes. The headlight ears also sheared off on my mine during a ride leaving my headlight hanging by the wires. I now have the light mounted with billet mounts.
Scottie
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Hi Scottie,
Thanks, I was planning on using Hitcocks rods, and after talking to BW about pistons will use the Wiseco T110 pistons.
The look is evolving based on what comes up on eBay, the shrouds initially will be hiding some seen better days forks, eventually may go disc brake like I have on the Bighead. Ignition will be PowerArc, as I have the programming kit, and it works really well on my other Bullets. Primary and clutch will be Bob Newbie, as I don't have a primary or clutch yet. Before I sent the shrouds off for powder coating, I spot welded some 16swg Zintec plates on the inside to strengthen them, so hopefully my light won't fall off.
The pictures show my trailblazer crank cases, but will build the bike with my later Constellation motor and crank, as the lubrication system and crank are much improved.
I am looking forward to see what difference the heads will make, as a friend has an Interceptor mark 1, and it will provide an interesting comparison.
Things may change, but this is my plan at the moment.
Kevin
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Those heads can take cams with lift up to .350", and the Interceptor R cams would be perfect.
You'll need more compression than a standard bike, because the rockers will make the cams seem longer than normal. Just like your Big Head Bullet needed the compression bump to see the best from it.
That bike should probably see at least 10 hp more than any Interceptor can make, in street trim. The heads can support 80hp at 8200 rpm with a pair of 32mm carbs, in full race trim.
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Thanks Ace,
BW thinks I should be around the 10:1 mark with these pistons. Initially I shall use the Constellation cams which lift 0.344. I am planning on using 2 x 32mm TM Mikuni's, at least the choke will be accessible on one of them.
An extra 10 HP is good, the Constellation put out 52HP as standard, thats 20% extra .. WOW !
Kevin
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Thanks Ace,
BW thinks I should be around the 10:1 mark with these pistons. Initially I shall use the Constellation cams which lift 0.344. I am planning on using 2 x 32mm TM Mikuni's, at least the choke will be accessible on one of them.
An extra 10 HP is good, the Constellation put out 52HP as standard, thats 20% extra .. WOW !
Kevin
Since these heads are suitable for racing, the higher you rev the engine, the more hp it will make, up to about 8200 rpm where I would expect the max hp point to be. But it would sustain even higher than 8200 rpm for a shift point, like maybe 8500 rpm. It just comes down to how high you want to rev the street bike for sake of reliability, and not blowing up the bottom end.
Those roller rockers were custom made for us by one of the leading rocker manufacturers for NASCAR racing cars. Very top shelf rockers!
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This is great stuff, I have to ask, have you had any thoughts on a name for the twins ?, or had Scottie had any ideas ?. It would be morally right if Scottie had some input into the name.
Kevin
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This is great stuff, I have to ask, have you had any thoughts on a name for the twins ?, or had Scottie had any ideas ?. It would be morally right if Scottie had some input into the name.
Kevin
Well, I was just thinking that in light of the "celestial" naming trend that was followed by RE with the Meteor, Super Meteor, and Constellation twins, and being that it is a twin cylinder, perhaps the "Gemini" heads might be a suitable moniker, because Gemini is the constellation of "the twins".
And, especially since my birth sign is also Gemini.
That sounds good to me!
8)
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I like that, Gemini
Kevin
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Heads are shipped.
Will email details later.
Tom
:)
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I too like the Gemini name! It's suiting and has a nice ring to it. :) Even tho, I had to forfeit my project, I'm still super excited to see how these heads perform. They definitely have HUGE potential.
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I too like the Gemini name! It's suiting and has a nice ring to it. :) Even tho, I had to forfeit my project, I'm still super excited to see how these heads perform. They definitely have HUGE potential.
Glad you like it!
I also have the Connie heads here for you. They look good.
Will email later to discuss details.
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Sounds good. Thanks Ace AND Kevin!
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Had to post a picture of the heads in place, (not fully fitted yet, just resting in place).
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Looking v good!
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Yes, looking really good!
8)
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Nice! Looking good! Can't wait to hear it run.
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Checking clearance around the tank, and a picture of the primary and clutch.
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Wow!
That just barely made it under the tank!
Does it touch?
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No they don't touch, the picture makes it look closer than it is, although there isn't a lot of room.
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Hell yeah!
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I just read on another blog that the US ECTA(East Coast Timing Association) LSR Speed Record Holder in 650 N/A pushrod, with his 650 Triumph twin, has dyno'd his bike at 60 hp at the engine(crank hp). This is a pure race bike, trailered to the track.
He has run somewhere around 122 mph in the flying mile on that bike, and holds the record.
Just FYI.
While the Trailblazer is about 42cc more than that, I think this engine will do better than 60 engine hp, even on a street bike.
As a side note, I showed him pics of our roller rockers for this application, and he wished they had that for his Triumph. I told him we could do his heads, but he wasn't willing to spend any money.
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Thanks Ace, this is inspiring stuff and puts the pressure on me to produce a build that delivers.
I am very busy at the moment but manage to sneak a couple of hours in the workshop today, so here is a progress shot.
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Like the belt drive clutch, though perhaps a genuine Lucas RM21 alternator might give you better output than the Indian version!
A.
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Custom pushrods ordered!
:)
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Sweet!
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Dapunds,
At one point you had mentioned that you were considering a carb-to-EFI conversion. Did you finally get around to that project?
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Dapunds,
At one point you had mentioned that you were considering a carb-to-EFI conversion. Did you finally get around to that project?
Hi so far I have only played around in the workshop with the kit, I have had the bike running but have not had sufficient time to de-bug all the issues. Now I am thinking of using the kit on one of the Trailblazer engines, the main reason being that the units seem to work better with more than one cylinder.
The Fireball now runs very well with the Mikuni, and I seem to have dialled out most of the issues, so I don't want to change something that is working.
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The custom made adjustable pushrods for the ACE Fireball RE Twin Heads with roller rockers.
(http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/gallery/medium_1119-090115160355.jpeg)
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They look great, its almost a shame to hide them away inside the engine. :)
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Sexy! Jealous! ;)
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Like the belt drive clutch, though perhaps a genuine Lucas RM21 alternator might give you better output than the Indian version!
A.
I have gone for the Wassall alternator, it claims to be about 120 watt, which will be plenty. I am planning on running fog/driving lights, the ignition will draw very little power, (PowerArc), so there will be plenty of power for everything.
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With some of the weather you're getting up there some fog lights might be a good idea.
I have just ordered an LED H4 headlamp bulb which draws 1.66 amps, equating to about 20W power consumption, on full beam, but is rated as a 55/60W bulb in terms of actual light emitted. Too good to be true? Well they're a lot dearer than normal H4 as well as bulkier (no good for the casquette headlamp with the speedometer in the shell), but I'll see how I get on with it and report back if it lives up to expectations. They do LED bulbs in other fittings too, perhaps suitable for your fog/driving lights.
http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/led-headlamp-bulbs-shop.php
Regards,
A.
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Report back time. The "bulb" arrived Saturday morning and was eagerly unpacked. As per the mfr's warnings it is quite bulky with a chunky heat sink (?!) at the back with a little black box wired in to a remote H4 male spade connector. It also has a metal end cap on the LED side.
My first thought was "that's never going to fit", but it does go into the Lucas (style) 7" headlamp shell on the Electra-X OK and everything screws back on. Does it work? Oh yes, a very bright blue-ish white light compared to the dirty yellow glimmer of the pilot bulb. I managed a quick after-dark test ride and after only one oncoming driver flashed me while I was riding on dipped beam (had to stop and point the lamp a bit further down), I think I can chalk up a success, provided the thing has a reasonably long life. For the money it cost, it better had!
Regards,
A.
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Not to hijack this thread but you should post a new thread with pics of the light beam. I've been interested in those myself.
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Not sure if my now rather antique digital camera is up to it, I shall give it a go and see if there's anything usable I can post. Unusually for LED this lamp works with positive and negative earth wiring systems. They are expensive (compared to normal H4s) as well as bulky, and that's just with UK taxes and shipping. If I can get some decent pictures up, you can decide if it's worth the money or not!
A.
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Check these H4 led's. The one with the braided heat sink might fit in a Bullet nacelle.
http://www.headwinds.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=headwinds01&Category_Code=010115 (http://www.headwinds.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=headwinds01&Category_Code=010115)
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Possibly!
A.
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Its been a busy few weeks but things are coming together. Ignition system on its way, (Powerarc), electrics sorted with a Motogadget digital controller and keyless ignition module, 3 button switch, (horn, lights off/low/high and 3rd button to switch ignition maps). The pushrods are on their way, and I have all the bits to finish the engine off, I am planning to use composite gaskets to start with, then move to solid copper when I put the alloy barrels on.
I have a rear wheel too now 18", although painted green, I am planning on black with a red stripe running round. I have had a Beugler Striper for a while and have been waiting for a project to try it out.
The clutch is now working nicely through the gearbox, as originally this was a scissor clutch activated through the primary case.
I am considering fitting a Hitchcocks disc conversion to the front to improve the breaking performance, but this is just a thought at the moment, I am using a TLS unit from my Bighead in the time being.
I am hopeful that everything will be in plaice by the end of the month and I can fire the bike up, I am getting really excited now.
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This is going to be an awesome build!
I'm really excited about seeing this thing go!
BTW, it also has the valve gear that your Big Head roller rocker head has, so it can handle the Interceptor R cams with .344" lift, if you want to use them.
Remember, these roller rockers will behave the same as your Big Head rockers in terms of reducing the working compression, so you will want to run a little more static compression than before, by using less cylinder base gasket thickness, or maybe even shaving the bottoms of the barrels slightly. With the smaller combustion chambers, this should be able to tolerate even higher compression than the Bullet because of shorter flame travel in the compact chambers.
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I am hopeful that everything will be in plaice by the end of the month and I can fire the bike up,
Something fishy going on... ;D
A.
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Punds - I'm very interested on how you eliminated the scissor clutch. I have heard that it is possible to convert to the push rod style, but heavy modification is needed to the gear box. Would you care to explain what was needed to be done for the conversion?
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Also, I wanted to tell you that I am extremely happy that the person who bailed me out on these heads is not only building the exact same bike as me, but is also building the motor just like I would have..... If money wasn't an issue. I am really excited to see your bike run. And also, I really REALLY need video of that bike breaking 130mph...... On the track of course. ;) There's a guy on the LSR forum that has a big mouth and ego to boot, that is convinced that an Enfield will never hit 138mph (for an LSR record) and I want to prove him wrong. Unfortunately his ego is huge now that I had to pass on those heads and take a different approach with my build.
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I got these in the post this morning.
On the subject of the clutch change to pushrod, it was fairly straightforward, I just had to add the pivot lever and mount, then make pushrods to suit, as I am using the Newby clutch.
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I think Scottie has a different gearbox that won't take the pushrod clutch. He has the Indian Chief box. ERC
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I was referring to my trailblazer box. Still not sure what I'm going to do about the chief box.
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da punds is right that's easy to change. ERC
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Some work in progress pictures.
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I like the look of that "Trailblazer Gemini" name in your signature line. I think that name is a good one.
Besides, I was born in June, so it's my zodiac sign.
;D
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Thanks Tom,
I am looking for somewhere to get it on the bike, I am thinking across the tank like the Constellations used to have.
Kevin
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Thanks Tom,
I am looking for somewhere to get it on the bike, I am thinking across the tank like the Constellations used to have.
Kevin
I think that sounds like a good idea.
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I like it too. :)
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Thought I would post an update, I have been very busy with work, so I have not had much time in the workshop, and have been shopping for bits instead. I have decided to go the disc route on the front end, with the potential performance from this bike, I need to be able to stop. The cylinder heads are still at the engineers, and I hope to be able to check the clearance some time next week, this is all that is stopping me from finishing the engine, and then I can fire it up for the first time. I will video the occasion and post.
The electrics are finished, and I am very pleased with the keyless ignition, I have had the tiny magnets sewn into all my sets of gloves, so now I never need to worry about keys for this or the Bighead as I just need my gloves. Great when you are cold and wet, or trying to fish your keys out from under your waterproofs. I have ordered a sticker for the top of the tank, I found an old Indian advert from 1956 with a logo saying Trailblazer and Indian superimposed on the bottom right hand half, they will change the Indian to Gemini and use the RE constellation script. I will post a picture of this, before I hand it over to the guy who is painting the tank.
I had been unable to get the correct footrests, and my patience was eventually rewarded thanks to eBay, so these the side stand and the primary case are all off to the powder coaters. I am powder coating the primary case because it has been welded up and after I polished it, it still looked wrong.
I have this afternoon off, and the weather is not too bad, so I am going for a ride, my first of the year, I will probably take the 570 as it is the easiest to get out of the shed.
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Pushrods should be coming in soon.
Enjoy your ride today.
:)
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Hi,
I can understand the use of a disc front end if that motor lives up to what we're hoping for. ;D However just be aware that the long fork shrouds for the pre-88 and Redditch forks (which I saw in an earlier post of yours) won't fit over the later fork sliders, whether drum or C5 UCE type disc, and definitely not over the Electra type, where the mudguard mount would also foul them even if the seal housing didn't!
If you are using a set of C5/B5 type forks and want to keep the tin shrouds, use the C5/B5 shrouds and a set of '50s headlamp brackets from Hitchcock's. If you're using gaiters, you can simply chop the long shrouds about 1" below the bottom yoke pinch bolts. I know you can convert drum forks to disc, but it's not recommended as the alloy castings of the drum brake models aren't really strong enough.
Meanwhile I look forward to some pictures of how it's doing. God willing, NewProj is off for a little holiday/vacation at B.W.'s next week, which should give me plenty of garage room to get Asbo12 sorted and back in one piece.
What ignition system are you using, by the way?
Regards,
A.
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Hi Adrian,
The front end is a Hitchcocks conversion, this will allow the shrouds to be kept, the ugly bit is the master cylinder, I will eventually find an aftermarket one I like.
The ignition is PowerArc, this is my preferred ignition for all my bikes, easy to program, multiple maps and rev limits, and very easy to install. On the trailblazer I have a magneto replacement body, into which I have installed the ignition, the coil tucks away nicely in the airbox, using it to provide a heatsink for the coil, (wasted spark, 1 coil, dual lead). Initially I am planning on using the Interceptor map provided and take the development from there.
I saw the picture of some engine bits at BW's, is that your new project ?
Kevin
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Hi,
sounds like that PowerArc is what Scottie should be using instead of the Thorspark! :o
Those aren't my parts at B.W.'s, someone else is having a 612 engine built. As I said, my stuff is being taken there next week (later this week, now).
If you're looking for a fancier master cylinder Venhill's may have something suitable in their Magura range.
Regards,
A.
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Hi,
sounds like that PowerArc is what Scottie should be using instead of the Thorspark! :o
Those aren't my parts at B.W.'s, someone else is having a 612 engine built. As I said, my stuff is being taken there next week (later this week, now).
If you're looking for a fancier master cylinder Venhill's may have something suitable in their Magura range.
Regards,
A.
Yep, I have buyers remorse. Especially considering that the Power/Arc is the exact same price as the Thorspark, but is 100 times the product. Like I mentioned, Thorspark will be recieving a not-so-nice email today informing them with my extreme disappointment in such a poor quality product. I'm pretty sure that when I bought it that it came with "5 year warranty". We'll see how that plays out.
Punds - How much did you pay for your set up with the replacement ignition drive housing? Is the housing part of Power Arc too?
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I have used PowerArc. Did not work for me. May work for you. PM me if interested.
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Hi,
I can understand the use of a disc front end if that motor lives up to what we're hoping for. ;D However just be aware that the long fork shrouds for the pre-88 and Redditch forks (which I saw in an earlier post of yours) won't fit over the later fork sliders, whether drum or C5 UCE type disc, and definitely not over the Electra type, where the mudguard mount would also foul them even if the seal housing didn't!
If you are using a set of C5/B5 type forks and want to keep the tin shrouds, use the C5/B5 shrouds and a set of '50s headlamp brackets from Hitchcock's. If you're using gaiters, you can simply chop the long shrouds about 1" below the bottom yoke pinch bolts. I know you can convert drum forks to disc, but it's not recommended as the alloy castings of the drum brake models aren't really strong enough.
Meanwhile I look forward to some pictures of how it's doing. God willing, NewProj is off for a little holiday/vacation at B.W.'s next week, which should give me plenty of garage room to get Asbo12 sorted and back in one piece.
What ignition system are you using, by the way?
Regards,
A.
Sorry I missed this when you posted I have modified the originals with larger shrouds, (see Picture). To overcome the weakness of the of the castings I have made my own caliber mount brackets. These are being powder coated, will post a picture when done.
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Pushrods have arrived. Will pick them up and ship ASAP.
:)
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Thanks Tom, let me know how much I owe you.
Kevin
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Thanks Tom, let me know how much I owe you.
Kevin
No charge.
:)
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Thanks Tom,
here is a quick scan of the tank top transfer, hope you approve.
Kevin
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That's awesome! :D
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Thanks Scottie,
I used an advert from 1956 which had Trailblazer and Indian superimposed on the bottom right.
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Yes, that looks terrific!
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Hi thought I should give an update, the pushrods now clear the tunnels, and as soon as the new push rod arrives I can finish putting the heads on. I haven't done much lately as work has got in the way, but I did get a very exciting parcel today, this will eventually end up on my long stroke clipper, after a trip to Wales to get a squish band. I should add I had been toying with the idea for a while, and when I heard they were nearly all gone I had to get one.
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If you are wondering why the pushrods have not been shipped yet, it's because they arrived here with the wrong ends on them and we are waiting for the new replacements with the right ends.
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Pushrods came in today, verified as right, and shipped out to you immediately. They are on the way.
:)
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Thanks Ace,
I have been doing lots of little bits on the bike, I redid the rear mudguard mount using a 57/58 sub frame, it wasn't rigid enough before. I have hit a minor snag with the carbs, the inlet manifolds you had are too close together to allow me to use Mikuni's. The original twin carb manifolds turn out to give clearance between the carbs, I managed to get a set of these, (from a Bercley car), but there is not enough room between the airbox and manifold to fit a carb into. Initially I will just use a single carb, and try and source a later twin carb airbox. I need the airbox to hide all the electrics and battery, and to mount the keyless ignition sensor, there isn't enough room left in the headlight.
On a side note I am looking forward to see what difference a squish band will make, I couldn't resist getting the last Hitchcocks big head, and although my Clipper doesn't suffer from detonation (Long stroke crank), I am looking forward to running without octane boosters and a bit more advance. Eventually I suspect this head will find its way to you for some tweaking, but it will be nice to contrast the 2 bullets, both with Big heads, one 535 and the other 570. I will keep you posted on developments.
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Thanks Ace,
I have been doing lots of little bits on the bike, I redid the rear mudguard mount using a 57/58 sub frame, it wasn't rigid enough before. I have hit a minor snag with the carbs, the inlet manifolds you had are too close together to allow me to use Mikuni's. The original twin carb manifolds turn out to give clearance between the carbs, I managed to get a set of these, (from a Bercley car), but there is not enough room between the airbox and manifold to fit a carb into. Initially I will just use a single carb, and try and source a later twin carb airbox. I need the airbox to hide all the electrics and battery, and to mount the keyless ignition sensor, there isn't enough room left in the headlight.
On a side note I am looking forward to see what difference a squish band will make, I couldn't resist getting the last Hitchcocks big head, and although my Clipper doesn't suffer from detonation (Long stroke crank), I am looking forward to running without octane boosters and a bit more advance. Eventually I suspect this head will find its way to you for some tweaking, but it will be nice to contrast the 2 bullets, both with Big heads, one 535 and the other 570. I will keep you posted on developments.
What piston are you going to use with that chamber?
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Hitchcocks forged low comp, the idea is that without spacers it is equivalent to shortening that barrel by 2mm, which BW normally does with this mod.
I found this link to a youtube video from BW showing the mods
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dwl6jlwt5-g
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With the small chamber, a very low crown would be nice for the street. Maybe about 9.5:1 might work well, depending on the cam timing.
It looks nice, and the video was fun to watch.
Thanks.
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Some new pictures.
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Very nice, can't wait to see the finished. ERC
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Hi
still a long way to go but here is a small video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOGfQDuBidA&feature=youtu.be
it lives.
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Sweet! Can't wait to hear/see it fully assembled and tuned! :D
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Nice, Kevin!
Great to see it come together.
Looks really nice, too!
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Finally got it out of the shed, but the weather isn't so good, just had a snow shower, so no test ride this morning. The short time I played around the house it seemed fine, I have a bit of work to do on the carb to get that dialled in, and I have an oil leak from the exhaust cam seal by the primary side. But I will trip and get it off for an MOT this week, (first stage of registering the bike in the UK). Here are some pictures before the weather deteriorated.
Kevin
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One more pic of the timing side
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Looking really nice Kevin! Damn weather isn't cooperating here either. It's been raining for 3 weeks straight and yesterday we got hammered with hail again.
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Very sweet looking machine!
8)
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Kevin, I'm curious as to what type of fuel do you plan on running in this motor?
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At the moment normal unleaded not sure of the rating, but if it nocks I will use an octane booster. I think I am slightly advanced on the timing, as it spits back when cold, but will keep it where it is until I have the carb correct. I may switch to a concentric for development as I grew up with this carb and it may save me some time. I can't use it on the road to test it properly yet, I did have a very quick potter up the road, and took it upto 50 ish and it was very smooth and comfortable, too short a ride to get a proper feel though.
I have decided I don't like the sound from the 2 into 1, so have just hit Hitchcocks to go the separate pipe route, I had to order a couple of gaskets and you know what its like, you get carried away. :-)
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I was actually going to ask about the exhaust. Is that a factory Connie exhaust? If so, I have heard that they are less than ideal and a lot of guys go with dual exhaust. That was one of the reasons that prompted me to build my own exhaust. What did you not like about it?
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It sounds like a cross between an early 2 stroke and an old super dream, and also it is too efficient I can here too much mechanical noise (there is no baffle to remove), I prefer a bit more bark.
Kevin
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Looking at the old brochure picture for the '56 Trail Blazer on the Hitchcock's gallery, I see it would have had twin pipes and what looks like Burgess type silencers. A couple of Indian shorties for a 350 would look pretty close and probably give you a bit more blat (depending on the manufacturer), unless you had something else planned?
A.
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Hi
Yes Adrian, I thought as the engine is basically a Connie that the siamesed pipe would be the one to use, but as you say originally it had separate pipes. I have ordered the pipes from Hitchcocks, and the silencers from the parts book, they do look like the Indian shorties. I will leave this pipe on for the MOT, then fit them after.
Here is a short youtube video from earlier today :
https://youtu.be/ha-RY7c6gSM
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:D
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My comments are on the MBR forum! ;)
A.
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Ironing out a few issues while rebuilding the top end with more clearance on the pushrods. The alternator and stator had made contact, and there was a crankcase venting issue. I have fitted an Electrex ignition and stator kit, (timing driven from the crankshaft, and a 70w alternator in one), and added a crank vent along with earlier breather to help reduce crankcase pressure. Here are a couple of pictures:
Here is a link for anyone interested http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/STK-102D_-_Ignition_Alternator_Kit.html
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I have the single-cylinder version of the Electrex waiting to go on something, though the alternator side of it only chucks out 50W - LEDs all round when I fit it to a bike, methinks!
Let us know how well it fares on ease of starting and how well it copes with the lights. Basically it's a more up to date version of the CDI type alternator that RE India fitted to the K/S 350 Machismo and AVL Thunderbird models:
(http://img.imagesia.com/fichiers/uj/dscn7012_imagesia-com_uj0r_large.JPG) (http://en.imagesia.com/dscn7012_uj0r)
A.
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Fitting twin carbs, I found that Concentrics will fit and let me keep the airbox.
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Keeping the airbox is important for preserving a certain look, though it does not seem to allow for any kind of bellmouth on the carbs, let alone any filter, though salt spray rather than road dust might be the problem in your part of the world.
You could consider using the Fury-style battery mounting which was also used on some of the Indian badged twins. It still looks cool/vintage and would give you some room to tidy those threaded carb ends up:
(http://img.imagesia.com/fichiers/13f/fury2_imagesia-com_13f99_large.jpg) (http://en.imagesia.com/fury2_13f99)
The picture was supplied by a gentleman who had previously restored this one and sent me same details explaining how the battery was mounted.
A.
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Hey Kevin. Did you ever get this build finished? I'm getting ready to tear down my old Trailblazer and got to thinking about this project. Would love to hear an update on your build.