[USBullet500]

Thanks for suggestion.
I see a drop of oil leak from the 19mm nut. I suspect its either not tightened well or the washer might be bad. I don't have a dealer close by. Where can we get the copper washer for the 19mm nut? Does local stores in USA sell those?

The manual suggests 15W 50 API SL Grade, Jaso MA semi synthetic oil. Any recommendation on brands?

[Bilgemaster]

Thanks for suggestion.
I see a drop of oil leak from the 19mm nut. I suspect its either not tightened well or the washer might be bad. I don't have a dealer close by. Where can we get the copper washer for the 19mm nut? Does local stores in USA sell those?

The manual suggests 15W 50 API SL Grade, Jaso MA semi synthetic oil. Any recommendation on brands?

Most any decent hardware store should be able to fix you up with a new copper washer to suit. Sure, the immigrants with no vowels in their names or the pimply zygotes with their fresh GEDs "manning" the aisles in the huge home improvement joints might just shrug or cock their heads like confused mutts, but go find that old guy in the local family-run hardware store with a polo shirt embroidered with some single-syllable salt-of-the-earth moniker like "Earl" or "Jake", and he can fix you up. In the meantime, you can do the old bodge of "annealing" or heating up the old copper washer to restore its "crushiness" with a blow torch, or just lob it onto a stovetop burner until it kinda glows. Dress it up a little with some light sandpaper if it's scored, and it'll work good as new.

If you're gonna be in the Harbor Freight anyhow, why not check out their little 105-piece 4-drawer toolkit. Unlike their slightly cheaper 130-piece kit, which is full of true garbage, I've recommended the 105-piece  several times here as an at least semi-decent starter kit that's also just super-handy. It has maybe 90% of everything you'd need to keep a Bullet well-fettled. I've got a few stowed here and there. They often go on sale for 30-something bucks. See: https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=25828.0

As for motor oil, there's already no shortage of dreaded "Motor Oil Threads" in the Forum Archives. My Iron Barrel seems to adore a cocktail of Mobil1 15W-50 full synthetic from Wallyworld for about 22 bucks for a 5 quart jug along with a dash of some goop called Lucas TB-Zinc to keep her flat tappets happiest, but what your model Bullet may like may well vary. I'd suggest rummaging through the Archives of your model's section for best guidance.

[USBullet500]

Did you see my earlier post on 3/8" drive or 1/2" drive. Which is the best deal at Harbor Freight to get the sockets set that include 30mm, 24mm, 19mm, 12mm and 8mm?

[Bilgemaster]

Did you see my earlier post on 3/8" drive or 1/2" drive. Which is the best deal at Harbor Freight to get the sockets set that include 30mm, 24mm, 19mm, 12mm and 8mm?

I believe you'd be looking at two different sets to get all the ones you mentioned. I picked up my larger 30mm and 24mm ones as part of one of their "Open Box" specials of a black impact driver grade set that was lacking one socket I didn't need anyhow.

[heloego]

Bilgeman,
   Every time I go into one of the "Big Box" hardware emporiums, it doesn't matter who you ask a question.
   They ALL say "Aisle 17."
   Assholes. 

   After a few episodes of that kind of lip service I've become quite content to just wander around to my heart's content.

   I'm retired. I'm ALLOWED to wander. 
 

[Bilgemaster]

"Cleanup on Aisle 17..."

[gizzo]

You know you can buy adapters to go from 3/8 to 1/2, or 1/2 to 3/8? Sounds like a new socket set isn't going to break the bank but if you didn't want to buy a new set...

[Bilgemaster]

You know you can buy adapters to go from 3/8 to 1/2, or 1/2 to 3/8? Sounds like a new socket set isn't going to break the bank but if you didn't want to buy a new set...

Indeed: https://www.harborfreight.com/High-Visibility-Socket-Adapter-Set-4-Pc-62851.html

And they often go on sale for just $2.99, usually with a coupon that one can find at https://www.hfqpdb.com .

The trick to keeping them handy once out of their little pouch and rattling around in a tool box is to just clip them all together, like a puzzle for dimwits. Keeps me busy for hours...

[USBullet500]

I bought all the tools from Harbor Freight and tried doing it the right way by applying right amount of foot pounds. I had a hard time adjusting the right and left cam adjustor to stay at the same place. As i applied the threadlocker and it already dried,  it is hard to take off the lock nut and spindle nut. They hardly spin. I tried switching back to the impact wrench, to make matters worst the threads on the lock nut wore off and the socket kept spinning doing nothing. I will try again to take off the lock nut with wrench, if not i will have to take it to the mechanic.
Since the threads wore off on the lock and spindle nut, i think it would be better if i get new nuts. Does the local shops carry those nuts(30mm & 24mm)? Or do i need to buy them from Royal enfield dealer?

[Ove]

I wouldn't use threadlock. That's what the lock nut is for.

I think you mean you damaged the flats on the outside of the nut, so the impact wrench socket no longer grips it? If so, this time I suggest you take it to a mechanic or the dealer, for them to remove the two nuts, they can also use a die to strip the threadlock off the spindle bolt, i suggest you get them to do this, to avoid damaging the threads in future and they can replace the 2 nuts. Chalk it up to experience and start afresh next time.

I wouldn't soldier on with your impact wrench, if I were you. Call me old fashioned, but I don't own an impact wrench. If I did, I think I would avoid using it on an Enfield. Too sudden and powerful, not enough 'feel'. Happy to be corrected.

[USBullet500]

Thanks for the response. I figured out the problem. The nuts were fine. I forgot to insert the screw driver on the other side while tightening the spindle nut. Its been a long day.. As a result the nuts kept spinning... and i thought the threads were damaged. Anyways here is the issue and it seems resolved for now.

The right and the left adjusters on the rear wheel do not sit in place while tightening the spindle nut. As soon as i tighten the spindle nut, it rotates along with it making it almost impossible to keep it in place. I finally used screw driver and some help on the other side to get both of them in place to the right number. I am not sure if its supposed to move like that. The only reason i think is i used impact wrench earlier. I learnt later not to use impact wrenches. So i went to harbor freight and got socket wrenches. But it seems the damage is already done. I see a bit of round spindle nut mark on the right adjuster cam. It took the impact of getting tightening too much with the impact wrench. As a result when i try to tighten the spindle nut even with a socket wrench, it rotates with it. For now i got them in place.And tightened using socket wrench to the exact foot pounds as in specifications. But down the road i plan no changing both the adjusters including the spindle and lock nut and start fresh. A lesson learnt.

[gizzo]

A tip to keep those pesky chain adjusters in place while you tighten the axle nut : place a screwdriver between the lower chain run and the sprocket. Turn the wheel backwards so the screwdriver gets sucked into the sprocket. The complete hub will be pulled forward, tight up against the adjusters and they won't move while you do the nut up.

You ought to do this when you do a chain adjustment, too. 

HTH.

[heloego]

Impact wrenches and bikes do NOT work and play well together.
Save the impact wrench for the lug nuts/bolts on your car or truck.

[suitcasejefferson]

I would never use an impact wrench on an Enfield. The metal is just not strong enough. The Enfield "tool kit" is worthless. Get the proper hand tools. I have been an auto mechanic for almost 40 years, and must have $50K in tools collected over those years, many of them bought at a significant discount or even given to me by the tool truck guys that show up where I work. But you don't need that just for a motorcycle. Buy just the tools you actually need, but get good ones. Huskey tools from Home Depot and Kobalt tools from Lowes are fine for what you are doing. I took a Jeep in to a tire place for new tires many years ago, and the first thing they did was break off 2 lug studs with their impact wrench. I went back home, put it on jackstands, removed all 4 wheels, took them in for new tires, then reinstalled them myself using a hand torque wrench. I would not even suggest using a torque wrench on many of the bolts on an Enfield. Many bolts have been broken and threads stripped that way. Having been a mechanic for so long, I have developed a good feel for just how tight a bolt or nut should be. DON'T overtighten anything on an Enfield. Be especially careful with the oil drain plugs and filter bolts. The metal is almost as soft as butter.

[USBullet500]

Thanks. I learnt it the hard way. I hope i did not damage anything else. I took a test ride and it seems to be fine now. My rear wheel snail doesn't have the hole to lock it in the sprocket making it very hard to adjust. The chain alignment tool doesn't work on RE as it has the chain cover. So i just have to eyeball it to see if its aligned. 

Talking about the oil drain nut, i see a small oil leak after every ride, maybe a drop or two. I wondered where it is from. Today i found this leak from the 19mm drain nut(see pic). I doubt it from the suction filter side as i don't see any fresh oil leak. I think it might not have tightened properly from the previous owner or the washer is loose. The previous dealer whom i bought it from over filled the oil and it is above the max level after starting and leaving it for few minutes. I will have to do oil change again and fix these two issues.