Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: diogo_sergio on December 03, 2019, 10:45:39 am
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I'm having a hard time removing the gear lever on my b5. I wanted to ajust it a little higher since i got some thicker riding boots and i'm having trouble getting my foot under the lever, but it won't come off. I've removed the bolt holding it in place complitly and it still won't budge. I don't wonna break it or force it. I'm doing anything wrong?
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Tap a flat blade screwdriver into the clamp slot to open it up a little, this will let it come off.
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Tried that, didn't work. Do they loctite these in the factory?
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Spray some penetrating oil onto the shaft/threads, and let is soak. Tap if a bit to loosen and then do the flat blade screwdriver thing.
9fingers
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Right now i've got a screwdriver jammed into de slot of the gear lever all the way to the shaft, it's drenched in penetrating oil, i've hit a few times and it still won't move! When i try to pull it out i just a bit of movement from the freeplay on the shaft. Any more ideas? I'm considering buying a bearing puller at this point...
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How about just giving up and removing the thick rubber over-tube from the gear lever and replacing it with thinner, glued-on, rubber pad?
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The screwdriver used to wedge the ring open might need to be larger, or have the tip ground off to do its work properly. I might orient the screwdriver shaft parallel to the shifter shaft, rather than radially.
I might try putting something between the lever ring and the engine casing that causes the shifter shaft to move outward, taking up any free play, then tapping the shifter shaft inward to get it moving.
Heat applied to the lever will destroy any polymer based adhesive that might have been used, and also expand the ring, but seals can be damaged so be careful with that.
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Thanks for your input and advice! I finally managed to remove it by putting the screwdriver parallel to shaft and tapping it in to loose it. I then used a c spanner to levered against the engine case to push it out.
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Great Success!
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If you ever get a really recalcitrant one the safest solution is just get hold of a puller. Something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shifter-Brake-Lever-Puller-for-Harley-/140986460537
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It's nice to have the right tool for the job. On the other hand, a heck of a lot can be done with the simplest tools.
A friend was arguing with me the other day regarding why he could not rebuild his '71 Harley FLH engine himself. "You gotta have a hundred different special tools!" he told me, "They show them all in the factory manual."
We had been having a little discussion of the relative merits of my RE vs. his Harley. He didn't seem too happy when I told him that I had just taken a 1999 Bullet all to pieces without even ONE special tool, not counting my Harbor Freight electric impact driver. Of course, things could have gone differently, I got lucky and everything was reasonably loose.
I'm also a big fan of KROIL, in my opinion, the BEST penetrating oil. This stuff compared to WD-40 is like Maker's Mark vs. Bud Light. Kano Labs will only ship to industrial addresses and you gotta sign a waiver saying it's for commercial / industrial use. Good Stuff! http://www.kanolabs.com/ I also use a lot of their ExRust product.
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I believe KROIL is just 50% acetone and 50% ATF?
Frank
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I don't think it's that simple. Kroil has a different smell than that mix, which is itself a pretty effective DIY penetrating oil. Interestingly, those ingredients are also key ingredients of modern formulations of "Ed's Red", the DIY gun cleaning solvent.
Acetone is the smallest ketone molecule and so very effective at penetrating, including your skin, so be careful!
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I used Ipone general use spray. It's a french brand which seems to be popular in this part of the world. The guys at the local motocross store recommended it.