Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet Iron Barrel => Topic started by: MOKAN-BULLET on May 07, 2008, 09:54:54 am
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I can run through the gears easily when up shifting
I'm having problems down shifting occasionally makes a crunching sound and I can only down shift one gear ie 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd or 2nd to 1st without using the neutral finder.
I tightened up the clutch cable but this seemed to make the issue worse.
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Try adjusting the clutch mechanism behind the transmission cover, If not that, then you may need to adjust the shifting ratchet under the same cover. Mine takes a definite motion when shifting down,.. clutch, blip throttle , move shifter on the blip, hold , clutch out , repeat, not as bad as it sounds but a routine. Its probably the one thing I fiddle with the most.Have fun, mtrude
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I recently had a problem similar to this. Have you had your transmission apart recently? It may be due to the stop plate on the ratchet assembly. This is the outer plate between the inner and outer gearbox covers that the neutral finder attaches to. I had this problem and it was that this plate had to much material on it in the stop positions and the rear plate in the assembly was out of adjustment.
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80% of shifting problems are caused by clutch adjustment. I tell people to adjust them as tight as you dare. 19% are usually the butterfly plate or some other part of the shift ratchet mechanism. Poor chain adjutment can also cause the problem (4 speeds), 5 speeds are great
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I have the same trouble downshifting... I often get a false neutral. Then downshifting from that hoping to find the next gear, I can wind up in first! Geez! Not good. Upshifting, so long as I shift "like I mean it" doesn't seem to be a problem most times. But I only have 250 miles on the new bike (08 Classic non-AVL), so I'm hoping this is going to sort itself out, but still and all, it's a pain, when compared with either my Bonnie, or BMW RT. But any further wisdom on what can be done to alleviate or just cause this problem to cease and desist would be most appreciated!
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Most 5- speed shifting problems can be fixed by altering the peg/pedal relationship. Either rotate the foot peg up or the shift pedal down. This will change the actuation angle and you foot will be able to apply better leverage.
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Still Having Problems >:(
I thought I was going thave to push the bike home today :o
It started acting up on the upshift now
I have the cluch cable thightened down and it think I have the push rod adjusted?
After I ajusted the push rod the shifting feels soft and so did the kick starter but I'm still having the same problem with the down shift.
Not sure I did that right Pete's book say to tighten to "just at the point of feeling some resistance" that seemed to happen fairly quickly
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I tinkered with it a little bit more after re-reading the adjustments in Pete's book.
And made things worse
still not down shifting and now slips when I give it power through all the gears.
giving up for to night I'll have to drive the car to work tonight >:(
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I use N.Z. Tim's method for clutch. It is spot-on and works every time.
see below... - Mike
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I have found the clutch adjustment very very fine... A difference of 1/8 of a turn on the adjustment nut makes the difference between slip and drag. Make sure that you cable is not kinked, well lubricated, and runs as straight as you can possible achieve. Do not over fill the primary case with oil; just enough oil to cover the bottom run of the chain on the clutch chain wheel. Do not use engine oil! Loosen off the cable adjuster, adjust the push rod clearance so that it just touches the rod, back it of 1/8 of a turn and carefully tighten the lock nut. Then take up the slack in the cable.
Assuming that your plates are still serviceable,
if it still slips, back the adjuster off another 1/8 of a turn. If it drags when hot, increase by 1/8 of a turn.
Tim N.Z.
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Thanks baird4444
I'll try that
Can you explain how drag will feel when I test ride the bike?
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You will have the clutch in but the bike will want to creep along. In other words the clutch is not fully disengaged.
Can you explain how drag will feel when I test ride the bike?
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Also, you might try leaving the bike in gear and turning the adjuster screw in until you can turn the rear wheel.(clutch disengaged). Now back out until the clutch reengages and make your adjustment from there. Doing this makes sure that all the parts are in the right place , and all the oil is squeezed out at the time you adjust it. Its in the same vein as adjusting old hydraulic drum brakes. It might be a help, I have not had to adjust the re's clutch but I have done many harleys, bsa's, ect this way.
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Oh she is temperamental!
I got a chance to work on her this after noon I thought I had finally figured out
But I was wrong!!!!
Test rode her about 6 miles started out like a dream shifting better that ever
On the way home the shift problem started again.
I had a question about how far the the adjusting screw should be out it seams very close to the out side cover