These multiple fuse blocks are pretty cheap & fit in the left box with room to spare. Using the plug-in auto fuses gives you a lot of options and they are tough, too. Every since I twigged to the "Play-Skool" wiring living below the bad tape job of the OEM loom, it creeps me out.
I want to hear a resounding "KLANK" before I coast to a stop, not be surrounded by clouds of plastic smoke!
In the Snidal book I had to root thru quite a few electrical schematic diagrams before I "averaged out" what was happening in MY Bullet, electrically. In the end you just have to sort it out yourself, as there seem to be "on the fly" changes at the factory.
The fun part is making a "Truth Table" for your handlebar switches. I recycled the AC Minda controls from my late '99 machine onto the earlier, prettier Magura-Unobtainium-controls equipped '99 DC machine. For each switch, make a chart with switch position on the left & all wires in a column on the top. Ring each wire to every other wire for each switch position. The chart in the attachment is an example.
THEN you are able to start building circuit logic - AFTER you know exactly what each switch does. The rest is keeping track of your wiring changes by writing them down. Paint works well on JPG files - easy to change & store, just make a clean copy to work from.
The "Simplified" diagram works really well with LED's - lighting DC current draw is microscopic. The AC system would carry an LED headlight if you used a bridge rectifier and smoothing capacitor. MAYBE the reverse polarity protected headlights wouldn't even care if they were supplied with AC instead of DC. I haven't tried this yet, but as soon as I do I'll report back.
My machines use the 5 3/4" sealed beams. The DC Red bike has an LED headlight already cobbled into the existing "bucket", but I have seen 5 3/4" "shells" for $20 that accept LED bulbs. That would have been easier. More to come! - ACR -
Topic: Need a wiring harness for 2003 Bullet 500cc (Read 3706 times)