[USBullet500]

I noticed some wobble in my rear tire while riding my bullet. I saw that the notches on the left and right of the rear tire adjuster cam are not aligned. So i decided to adjust it. I am a novice and this is my first time trying to remove a motorcycle tire. I couldn't get it off using the wrench in the tool kit. So i used my Bauer 20v impact wrench to loosen the castle nut and spindle nut.

Once adjusted i tightened them back up. I tightened it real good for the fear of the tire coming off loose while riding.. However i feel i might have tightened it too much as i see some wear on the threads. I rode the bike and everything is good. I appreciate if anyone can suggest the following.

a) Is it okay to use the impact wrench on the motorcycles? Is there a manufactured recommended torque on this motorcycle?

b) I am not sure how anyone could use wrench in the tool kit to remove the tire without some effort. Is there a better wrench/ torque wrench you use that is easy enough to carry with the bike in case you have to remove the tire. 30# & 24# sockets

b) I checked the chain play and its not too tight or too loose. Chain play is about 3 fingers from the center of the swing arm. However when i rotate the tire, i hear a slight rubbing/friction when the chain runs over the front sprocket, but no such friction noise can be heard from the rear sprocket end. Have you experienced the same thing? Is this usual? Or can anything be done on the rear sprocket side to adjust this?

[Haggis]

Rear wheel spindle 24mm nut is 70nm. Do not use an impact wrench. If you have drum rear brakes you have two spindles. Short spindle with 30mm nut holds the brake drum/sprocket in place. Brake backplate secured with 19mm nut. Long spindle hold your wheel in place with two spacers and a 24mm self locking nut.
Wheel alignment snail cam adjusters are very rarely accurate.  I have three notches difference between left and right when the wheels are in line. To adjust the chain tension you would have to loosen the 24mm, the 30mm and the 19mm to be able to move the wheel backwards or forwards.

[Ove]

I have a solid (no ratchet) socket wrench I use to loosen the nuts. It's extending, slides out to 18". So can be carried in a tool roll.

Mine is a rear disc brake model. It has a hole for a bar to go through the bolt head on the LHS. On the other side are 2 nuts, the main is 30mm, 24mm will do the 2nd lock nut, but there's a bit of slack, so I use a 15/16ths, which fits fine. I don't have a 23mm to check if that would work. 

I tighten with a torque wrench.

[USBullet500]

Is there any harm if you tighten with torque wrench 3 to 4 rounds compared to the socket wrench if you could do only 1 round?

[Ove]

Don't know. I set the torque wrench to the correct setting and it clicks to tell you when to stop tightening 

[USBullet500]

I am getting me a torque wrench with adjustable torque setting. What torque is the manufacturer recommended for 24mm nut and 30 mm nut?

Thanks. I appreciate your response.

[Bilgemaster]

I am getting me a torque wrench with adjustable torque setting. What torque is the manufacturer recommended for 24mm nut and 30 mm nut?

Thanks. I appreciate your response.

It's not my model of Bullet. I've got an old "Iron Belly", but according to that earlier posting by our esteemed "Haggis", you should be looking at 70nm (Newton-meters) of torque down there, or roughly 50 foot-pounds American, which sounds about right to me. While you might be OK removing those nuts with an impact wrench, I doubt you'd do them any favors putting them on with one.

A semi-decent tool for that job at home might be one of these reasonably hefty Harbor Freight 3/8" Drive Torque Wrenches, which should run you only about $16 with a 20% Off coupon: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63880.html . It's long and stout enough to get you pretty decent leverage. If you need something a little less hefty for travel that might also double as a regular dual-duty 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet, you might like their "1/4 in. x 3/8 in. Dual Drive Extendable Ratchet" for just about 11 bucks with coupon, as seen at: https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-x-38-in-dual-drive-extendable-ratchet-62312.html . It's not a torque wrench, sure, but it'll do the trick on the road for wheels and much more. It extends to four settings from 9½ up to 13½ inches. Please disregard the flyer image on the Harbor Freight website of their "Flex Head Ratchet". While not a bad tool, its image with description was clearly placed there in error.

For coupons, freebies, and more, check out the good folks at the 'Harbor Freight Tools Coupon Database' at https://www.hfqpdb.com/

[USBullet500]

Thank you very much for your response. I appreciate it. I was also thinking on those lines and going to get a 1/2" drive click type torque wrench. The only reason being that i have a 1/2" Bauer 20V impact wrench and i have the metric sockets for that wrench. If assume i can use the sockets from the impact wrench for the torque wrench. In that way i don't have to buy additional sockets.

Is it okay to apply 70nm torque on both 24mm nut and 30 mm nuts? Or does the short spindle 30mm nut needs a different setting?

[kdxandrew]

Here's a handy torque value chart

[Ove]

....Is it okay to apply 70nm torque on both 24mm nut and 30 mm nuts? Or does the short spindle 30mm nut needs a different setting?

Yes 70nm is near enough for both and easy to remember. I think the bigger inner nut is slightly under and the outer slightly over. I doubt they get it to spec every time at the factory!

[USBullet500]

Thank you.

[Bilgemaster]

One reason to get Harbor Freight's 3/8" drive "Pittsburgh" brand torque wrench instead of their 1/2" one is that the 3/8" goes down to 5 foot-pounds while their 1/2" minimum is 30. I don't know about a UCE engine, but I believe some fasteners on my old "Iron Belly", such on the head, take as little as 4 pounds ideally. They may get away with 5, but a heave-ho of 30 would almost surely strip them.

If you're at Harbor Freight anyhow, grab a couple of bottles of their Medium Threadlock No. 42: https://www.harborfreight.com/threadlocker-no-42-10-ml-medium-strength-65192.html . With a droplet applied to most every bolt, nut or screw you henceforth so much as look at, I guarantee you'll be happier.

[Ove]

Good tip on the torque wrench. On a previous bike the specs were in imperial. Set the torque wrench up to the right value in ft/lbs and ready to go, thought I'd double check. It was in/lbs! My wrench didn't go that low. Had to buy another one.

[USBullet500]

Thats a good point Bilgemaster. However i am facing the issue of having to buy extra sockets. I have the Bauer 20V cordless 1/2" impact wrench for which i already purchased a 13pc metric socket set that covers 30mm, 24mm and also a 19mm(for oil change).

Since i am going to Harbor Freight i plan on getting the two other sockets for oil change (12mm & 8mm) sockets for the oil change. Also i  cannot use the Drive wrench which is 18" long to do my oil change .So i am planning on getting https://www.harborfreight.com/16-Pc-12-in-Drive-Metric-Socket-Set-63458.html This has a 12" ratchet and a 5" extender that i can easily get under.

But the above 16 pc set does not have 8mm socket. So i plan on getting for $5.99 https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-14-in-Drive-SAE-Metric-Socket-Set-40-Pc-62843.html

This is my first time i am gonna do oil change. The 16 PC 1/2" ratchet set has everything i need. Although i cannot set the ft lbs on that. Is there a better option you see which would cover my requirements?
The second option i have is:
Get the 3/8" drive and buy the 24mm and 30mm socket instead from home depot or elsewhere? Then get a 20pc set https://www.harborfreight.com/20-pc-38-in-drive-metric-socket-set-63463.html and also the
https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-14-in-Drive-SAE-Metric-Socket-Set-40-Pc-62843.html for a 8mm socket?
The second option requires me buying additional sockets from home depot as harbor freight does not sell individual sockets.

[Ove]

For the oil drain bolts, I use an ordinary open 4 sided spanners. If you want to use a socket with a torque wrench,  if possible I'd use six sided sockets, for a more even purchase on the bolt head. Bit better than the multi sided ones, as the bolt heads are made of softish metal and over time could get a bit chewed up. Just a suggestion.