Author Topic: Right Cover and Sprocket Nut  (Read 9940 times)

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Guaire

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on: December 28, 2019, 01:33:11 pm
I’m taking off the right crankcase cover. I was able to disconnect one of the stator plugs. I can see the other plug. The motor, motor mount, frame and tool box are all in the way. How can I unplug it? It has to have the catch depressed and separated. I can’t get tools on it.

What size is the nut on the drive (front) sprocket?
Cheers,
Bill
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Guaire

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Reply #1 on: December 28, 2019, 05:35:13 pm
I measured. Looks like a 46mm.
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gizzo

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Reply #2 on: December 29, 2019, 12:10:12 am
I wish I could remember. I've done it, but didn't pay any attention.  Maybe you have to take out the engine mount? Good luck.
simon from south Australia
Continental GT
Pantah
DR250
DRZ400SM
C90
GSX250E


Guaire

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Reply #3 on: December 29, 2019, 03:06:04 pm
Gizzo - Not what I wanted to hear, but, that might be “it”.
  The hardware on the motor mount is accessible. I could off it and torque wrench it back on without the drama I’m looking at now!

BTW - The Fireball head is getting a finishing touch on the oil plugs under the oil squirting Holly jets. They’re located near the springs.
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Dantheman

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Reply #4 on: December 30, 2019, 08:23:09 am
The little two way connector (for the crank position sensor) under the engine plates are always a little tricky to access, you can get to them without removing the plate and just use a small flat blade screw driver to press the release in on the plug. If its a bike that is going to have this disconnected on a regular basis, just reroute the cable to run above the plate so its easier for next time.


Guaire

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Reply #5 on: January 01, 2020, 08:51:59 pm
I received a 46mm socket. It's a honker!
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Guaire

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Reply #6 on: January 03, 2020, 05:13:10 pm
This shifter pawl came out when I opened the right case cover. I can't get them rod back in the forked gear shift lever. Any suggestions?
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Arschloch

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Reply #7 on: January 03, 2020, 07:12:52 pm
This shifter pawl came out when I opened the right case cover. I can't get them rod back in the forked gear shift lever. Any suggestions?

If you remove the shifter on the other side of the engine than the shift rod will be free to move as much as necessary to be put back in the fork.


Guaire

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Reply #8 on: January 04, 2020, 01:43:18 pm
Thanks, OK! I needed that. BTW, the billet head is looking great. Cams too.
Cheers,
BG
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Arschloch

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Reply #9 on: January 06, 2020, 04:36:18 pm
Thanks, OK! I needed that. BTW, the billet head is looking great. Cams too.
Cheers,
BG

Billet head looks very good!


Guaire

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Reply #10 on: January 06, 2020, 08:37:50 pm
Glad you like it!
  I got the shifter off and it moves easily. I have the engine in 5th gear, to bump the piston to TDC and install our ‘new and improved’ performance cams. Then pushrods. Then the head.
  Our guys will do a cc volume check on the compression chamber AND the piston below the barrel deck. That will define any barrel skimming precisely.
Gradually, we’re coming together!
Cheers,
Bill G
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Arschloch

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Reply #11 on: January 07, 2020, 08:41:41 pm
Glad you like it!
  I got the shifter off and it moves easily. I have the engine in 5th gear, to bump the piston to TDC and install our ‘new and improved’ performance cams. Then pushrods. Then the head.
  Our guys will do a cc volume check on the compression chamber AND the piston below the barrel deck. That will define any barrel skimming precisely.
Gradually, we’re coming together!
Cheers,
Bill G

I will have to review mine, maybe the big end bearing finally gave up after about 10k miles hard riding, compression was 210psi, no pinging or any other issues. That was with 98 oct. fuel (EU) which translate to 93 oct. in the US i believe.

Something to do.

regards
OK


Guaire

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Reply #12 on: January 08, 2020, 12:09:53 am
210 is a lot of compression.
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gizzo

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Reply #13 on: January 08, 2020, 12:25:00 am
I will have to review mine, maybe the big end bearing finally gave up after about 10k miles hard riding, compression was 210psi, no pinging or any other issues. That was with 98 oct. fuel (EU) which translate to 93 oct. in the US i believe.

Something to do.

regards
OK

I don't remember reading about your bike breaking. What happened?
simon from south Australia
Continental GT
Pantah
DR250
DRZ400SM
C90
GSX250E


Arschloch

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Reply #14 on: January 08, 2020, 01:47:22 am
I don't remember reading about your bike breaking. What happened?

I don't know yet, last time when I rode it, it started knocking and loosing power so I stoped. Have to open it and see.

Maybe the bike just doesn't like the somewhat cold climate over here.

« Last Edit: February 20, 2020, 01:13:59 pm by Joe_535i »


gizzo

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Reply #15 on: January 08, 2020, 02:40:09 am
Hope it's something simple/easy.
simon from south Australia
Continental GT
Pantah
DR250
DRZ400SM
C90
GSX250E


Arschloch

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Reply #16 on: January 08, 2020, 04:19:28 am
Thanks,  it probably is.


Arschloch

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Reply #17 on: January 08, 2020, 06:41:42 pm
And "problem" solved, wow i love it. So much help I got.


gizzo

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Reply #18 on: January 08, 2020, 06:51:05 pm
What do you mean?
simon from south Australia
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Pantah
DR250
DRZ400SM
C90
GSX250E


Arschloch

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Reply #19 on: January 08, 2020, 07:08:36 pm
I don't know what the problem was.


jez

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Reply #20 on: January 08, 2020, 10:45:06 pm
If it's ok again it as almost certainly preignition ie the tip of the spark plug getting so hot it sets the fuel exploding before it actually sparks. My old Norton is prone to this. You just switch to the next heat range colder plug when it's really hot, problem goes away. It can sound alarming , as if the big end has gone due to the fuel explosion trying to force the piston back down before it's reached the top, known as "knocking".


Arschloch

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Reply #21 on: January 10, 2020, 10:29:00 pm
If it's ok again it as almost certainly preignition ie the tip of the spark plug getting so hot it sets the fuel exploding before it actually sparks. My old Norton is prone to this. You just switch to the next heat range colder plug when it's really hot, problem goes away. It can sound alarming , as if the big end has gone due to the fuel explosion trying to force the piston back down before it's reached the top, known as "knocking".

Nope, looks like that "problem" is a non issue. Maybe the Power Commander, hard to diagnose, I noticed that the rev. limiter in that Power Commander kicks in too early sometimes without any obvious reason.
« Last Edit: January 11, 2020, 04:30:10 am by derottone »


jez

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Reply #22 on: January 11, 2020, 12:20:35 pm
Thankfully I have a Hitchcocks carb and a Henshaw fitted tuning kit, and  a fair bit of wiring ripped out, so I have less electrical gubbins to worry about. Bike came to me like that.  Paul Henshaw intimated that the standard engine was prone to preignition when I asked about further tuning.


Guaire

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Reply #23 on: January 11, 2020, 02:17:23 pm
I would like to designate this thread as officially hijacked.
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ace.cafe

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Reply #24 on: January 11, 2020, 04:28:13 pm
Nope, looks like that "problem" is a non issue. Maybe the Power Commander, hard to diagnose, I noticed that the rev. limiter in that Power Commander kicks in too early sometimes without any obvious reason.
Glad it doesn't seem to be serious!
It's nice to see some comments from you again.
:)
Home of the Fireball 535 !


Arschloch

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Reply #25 on: January 16, 2020, 10:42:50 am
Glad it doesn't seem to be serious!
It's nice to see some comments from you again.
:)

Thank you, I am locating the IT's in my neighbourhood, the source of happiness, sorry for missusing this thread somewhat.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2020, 11:57:48 am by derottone »


Guaire

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Reply #26 on: January 16, 2020, 01:00:48 pm
Thank you, I am locating the IT's in my neighbourhood, the source of happiness, sorry for missusing this thread somewhat.

No problem. It’s nice to start a thread that gets the conversation started.
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