[dgurovich]

So I replaced the original starter relay/solenoid with an aftermarket unit (69 Ford Mustang).  Ran 4 gauge wires to starter and from battery, nice fat 16 gauge wires to the starter and accessories ("S" and "I" terminals).  Countersunk some 5mm screws into the battery mount so that nothing would rub when the solenoid was bolted on, and ran a 14 gauge wire straight to ground from the solenoid mount to the negative terminal just to be damned sure.

Starter spins with no motor connection, and won't stop spinning unless I disconnect the "S" terminal for a second or so.  I figure that the former means getting a new sprag clutch, and the latter means, possibly crappy starter contacts in the handlebar switch, or?

Once I get it all right I'll pull it all off, paint it and make it very clean.

[axman88]

[quote author=dgurovich
Starter spins with no motor connection, and won't stop spinning unless I disconnect the "S" terminal for a second or so.  I figure that the former means getting a new sprag clutch, and the latter means, possibly crappy starter contacts in the handlebar switch, or?
[/quote]
I would think it could also mean that the Relay is not re-opening like it should.  The "second or so" in your description seems peculiar.  Do they specify that the device is supposed to be mounted in some certain way? 

Could the solenoid be relying on power going through the switched contacts to provide a reverse magnetic field to reopen the contacts.  Just speculating, I've never heard of a design like this.
but if that was the case, the reduced amperage demand of the smaller starter motor could inhibit the contacts opening.

What is the 2nd small terminal on the starter relay supposed to be for?

[dgurovich]

It's a typical Ford Relay. The second terminal is for the coil, etc to keep it energized when it is first turned on hence "I" on the terminal marking.

[Adrian II]

Forget the 4 wheeler stuff, I replaced my Electra-X starter relay with a pattern Honda Goldwing item off ebay, it worked perfectly.

A.

[axman88]

It's a typical Ford Relay. The second terminal is for the coil, etc to keep it energized when it is first turned on hence "I" on the terminal marking.

Gotcha.  They would use that terminal to bypass the ballast resistor in the old old systems, so as to allow a hotter spark while cranking.  Couldn't read it in the picture.  You're probably right with your guess of sticky starter switch contacts.  Does a voltmeter test show power persisting on the S terminal?

[dgurovich]

Yup.

How about Sprag Clutch?  Will later model fit Electras?  I'd like to get that one out of the way too.

[Adrian II]

The UCE sprag clutch can be MADE to fit the Electra-X, the Spanish importer managed to do this and posted something on Face Book a while ago, if that helps with your search.

A.

[dgurovich]

Progress!

I pulled the primary outer case off and there isn't any "bits" in it.  I ran the starter again and it spun the "outer" part of the sprag clutch just fine -- I pulled the starter motor and inspected all the gears and they are also fine.  All the gears on the Sprag Clutch are fine.

I am assuming, at this point of owning a Bullet for 5 days, that the innards of the Sprag Clutch are toast?  I believe I need two tools -- a magneto extractor and clutch extractor tool?  I assume I will need just the sprag clutch and some gaskets for the chaincase. 

I looked at Hitchcocks.  I assume that I need:

MAGNETO PULLER Electra X + EFI (98035)
CLUTCH EXTRACTOR  SKU: ST25099

I'm confused on what gaskets to buy.

I want to take the sprag clutch apart before I just buy a whole one?  It looks like I might be able to get away with the basket and?

Thanks for help on this.

[Adrian II]

If you don't have a workshop manual I strongly advise you to buy one!  You have presumably seen the on-line parts book at Hitchcocks' site.

https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/2358

https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/2359

I don't know if you know any French, there's a good strip down guide here, but relax if you don't, the guy took plenty of pictures.  For some reason his alternator rotor ("magneto" is the official but wrong description) is held on by a countersunk machine screw rather than a nut on the end of the crank, but otherwise yous will be identical.

http://www.royalenfieldlesite.fr/spip/IMG/pdf/roue_libre_demarreur.pdf

A.

[dgurovich]

Bought the book 5 hours ago!

[dgurovich]

Ordered the tools.  I've restored 10 Citroens and a Facel Vega. My French is "OK", but I will translate the manual and repost when I can.  Looks like the inner sprag clutch is the only real thing that pooped out.

[Adrian II]

The other thing you can do is machine the cylinder head to fit a decompressor valve off the cast-iron Bullets, the exhaust valve lifter on the tappet cover never worked properly for me, though others have managed to get it to work properly by fitting the handlebar end of the cable into a vintage style handlebar lever instead of the feeble plastic thing in the left-hand switch cluster.



https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-TRIUMPH-MOTORCYCLE-DECOMPRESION-LEVER-7-8-No-105-VALVE-LIFTER-WW83009/124121194269?hash=item1ce6331f1d:g:Gg4AAOSw8KVdXqFO

OR:



or both!

A.

[dgurovich]

Love that, have them on my Matchless and Velo.  Would love to get rid of clunky plastic switchgear.

[Adrian II]

Would love to get rid of clunky plastic switchgear.

You can actually do this, though with the E/S and indicators you will have some re-wiring to do. You can even re-style the front end with a Lucas 700SSU headlamp and switch (OK, replica these days), a set of 50's style headlamp brackets, and an alloy top yoke in place of the casquette headlamp casting . Wipac Tricon switch for dip/horn and starter button, another handlebar switch for the indicators, sorted.

A.

[tooseevee]

Ordered the tools.  I've restored 10 Citroens and a Facel Vega. My French is "OK", but I will translate the manual and repost when I can.  Looks like the inner sprag clutch is the only real thing that pooped out.