[Alan F.]

You absolutely do not want to use a center punch. You want to use a brass drift with a flat face that will not deform the face of your pin.

If your screwdriver marked up the end of that pin, it may be flared just enough to have become oversize for the hole it came out of.

[JessHerbst]

You absolutely do not want to use a center punch. You want to use a brass drift with a flat face that will not deform the face of your pin.

If your screwdriver marked up the end of that pin, it may be flared just enough to have become oversize for the hole it came out of.

Ok, I will start by confessing myignorance, I have never heard of a ‘Drift’ in reference to a tool. I thought at first it was a UK & Oz term, but I checked your profile and you are in the US. Googling ‘brass drift’ I just get links to a ‘punch’.
 What is a brass drift?

[NVDucati]

Ok, I will start by confessing myignorance, I have never heard of a ‘Drift’ in reference to a tool. I thought at first it was a UK & Oz term, but I checked your profile and you are in the US. Googling ‘brass drift’ I just get links to a ‘punch’.
 What is a brass drift?

It is a brass rod WITHOUT a pointy end. It is softer than steel so it gets sacrificial damages as opposed to whatever part you are trying to "set a drift"(move).
In a pinch you can "un-sharpen" the point on a common punch and use the handle of your hammer to tap it.

[JessHerbst]

It is a brass rod WITHOUT a pointy end. It is softer than steel so it gets sacrificial damages as opposed to whatever part you are trying to "set a drift"(move).
In a pinch you can "un-sharpen" the point on a common punch and use the handle of your hammer to tap it.

Good to know, thanks.

[lucky phil]

You absolutely do not want to use a center punch. You want to use a brass drift with a flat face that will not deform the face of your pin.

If your screwdriver marked up the end of that pin, it may be flared just enough to have become oversize for the hole it came out of.

Tell you what if you've got to hit it hard enough for a flat steel punch to mushroom the pin end then you've got bigger issues. I think you'd damage the calliper before you mushroomed the pin personally. Having said that a brass drift would be the gold standard. I have steel, aluminium and brass depending on the situation and the dia of drift required. A 4mm aluminium drift is pretty useless for anything as it's too flexible and absorbs too much of the impact. In this case a brass or steel drift used judiciously is the answer. In many cases it's the sharpness of the impact that loosens or moves a component not the ultimate force of the blow so anything that has some flexibility or absorbs any of the impact lessens the effectiveness. Thats why different drift materials for different applications. Like anything there's a lot of operator input that determines the outcome.

Phil 

[Hoiho]

Tell you what if you've got to hit it hard enough for a flat steel punch to mushroom the pin end then you've got bigger issues. I think you'd damage the calliper before you mushroomed the pin personally. Having said that a brass drift would be the gold standard. I have steel, aluminium and brass depending on the situation and the dia of drift required. A 4mm aluminium drift is pretty useless for anything as it's too flexible and absorbs too much of the impact. In this case a brass or steel drift used judiciously is the answer. In many cases it's the sharpness of the impact that loosens or moves a component not the ultimate force of the blow so anything that has some flexibility or absorbs any of the impact lessens the effectiveness. Thats why different drift materials for different applications. Like anything there's a lot of operator input that determines the outcome.

Phil

I have seen pics of a 650 rear calliper with the pin ears broken off..

[broadkent]

Any update on this? I'm having the same issue. Can't get the cotter pin in, the retaining rod needs to go in another fraction of a millimeter but it just won't do it.

Did you find a way or find an aftermarket rod?