Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => 650 Interceptor & Continental GT => Topic started by: Daddy V on January 03, 2020, 06:34:06 am
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Hey everyone,
I've clocked about 4k km on my interceptor 650. The 1st to 2nd shift is still hard and loud. Any of you face the same issue? Any idea what may be causing this?
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It might be time to have your dealer or another experienced RE owner take a look. There should be no hard or loud stuff....better to get it checked before there is serious damage to the gears. Thanks.
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Hey everyone,
I've clocked about 4k km on my interceptor 650. The 1st to 2nd shift is still hard and loud. Any of you face the same issue? Any idea what may be causing this?
Same here, most of the time. Sometimes the shift slips smoothly and silently into 2nd but that's the exception.
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Daddy v, is that 4 thousand kilometres. I recently posted a view that the GT has a more positive gear change than the Interceptor, which can only be the linkage / leverage. Assuming that your chain is adjusted correctly ? If owners could give us thumbs up or down on both models we could solve a common problem. As a last thought, has anybody had a gearbox failure?
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My interceptor slips out of second into neutral quite often when it's fully warmed up. Annoying.
There's also a fairly loud click when downshifting from 2nd to 1st.
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My Interceptor shifts like butter, cold, warm, or hot.
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Mine shifted hard, gritty and unpleasant for the first few hundred miles. It now has 900 miles and the last 300 miles saw the shifting change over to smooth and slick shifting like they were advertised. There must be something wrong with yours
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Does the cable need adjusting up a bit. They can stretch a bit during the early days. I usually set around 3/32" (2-2.5 mm) free play on mine. Also have a look at the linkage mount and move it around a notch for more direct leverage if necessary. You will have to readjust the screw shaft length if doing this. It may also be the oil needing a change.
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Keep the replies coming, this will help us establishe a pattern.
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I have the continental GT 650. I put about 900 miles on it before winter showed up and I have had no issues with shifting whatsoever. Very smooth.
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Hey everyone,
I've clocked about 4k km on my interceptor 650. The 1st to 2nd shift is still hard and loud. Any of you face the same issue? Any idea what may be causing this?
Same here, especially when the gear box is properly warmed up. Almost all the testers out there say that the 650 twins have a particular smooth gear shifting.
I cannot confirm that for my Interceptor. Issues I experience: Engaging 1st gear results in a loud "clonk" noise. Couple of false neutrals when shifting from 5th to 6th. On one occasion the bike disengaged the 6th gear into false neutral at 130km/h, driving uphill with throttle opened to hold speed. That's an experience nobody needs... Another issue is that the gear box occasionally might snap into 1st gear unexpectedly when you shifted from 2nd to neutral. The neutral light is still on, but the bike seems to have shifted half way into 1st instead proper neutral, and then snaps into 1st and stalls. This happens the more the warmer the gear box gets. Cold the gear box works almost flawless, but then quickly starts to show issues as the gear box warms up.
From my point of view the gear box selector fork needs adjustment, seems it is positioned too close to 1st gear. Hence the snap into 1st when neutral is expected, and the false neutrals between 5th and 6th. Looks as if it shifts too far when going from 2nd to neutral, and not far enough when going from 5th to 6th. My dealership however claims there is nothing wrong with the gear box.
The bike has run 3000km now, clutch cable is properly adjusted, oil level is correct, chain is properly adjusted.
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Good point! this is important to me....all of the initial reviews were really good...but now that the bikes are out there for a while...I start to see annoying issues.....I've only owned Japanese bikes..(not all actually made in Japan..but Japanese brands)...and I have never had any issues with shifting...no false neutrals...no slipping out of gear...no ignition key messing up etc....My 55,000 mile Suzuki starts, runs, and drives like the day I bought it. My 34 year old Honda...no issues....
I had my heart set on buying a RE this spring.....now starting to loose zeal.....hmmmm...
Cookie
Keep the replies coming, this will help us establishe a pattern.
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Good point! this is important to me....all of the initial reviews were really good...but now that the bikes are out there for a while...I start to see annoying issues.....I've only owned Japanese bikes..(not all actually made in Japan..but Japanese brands)...and I have never had any issues with shifting...no false neutrals...no slipping out of gear...no ignition key messing up etc....My 55,000 mile Suzuki starts, runs, and drives like the day I bought it. My 34 year old Honda...no issues....
I had my heart set on buying a RE this spring.....now starting to loose zeal.....hmmmm...
Cookie
Well, some thoughts:
To me this looks pretty much like an "early adopter" problem. My bike was one of the first lot sold in Germany.
Not every single bike seems to be affected, not most of them, probably not even many of them. This is just my personal experience, and my expectations were quite high after reading the positive reviews. Another rider without a particular expectation might not even consider the behavior unusual (apart from slipping out of gear/neutral maybe). But when a dozen different reviews state "butter smooth shifting" I expect exactly that - payed reviews or not (we all know how commercial Youtube channels work).
The bike does not do faulty shifts all the time, not even frequently. But every now and then, and repeatedly over a 6 month period.
From my experience with japanese bikes (mostly Yamaha) I can say that none of them did shift particularly better than the Interceptor, some were considerably worse.
I guess this is not a design flaw, but a matter of proper adjustment of the gear box. So it should be possible to get that sufficiently fixed.
I guess Royal Enfield is aware of the issue, and they probably will improve their quality assurance process to deliver consistent properly adjusted bikes. For the existing bikes they may develop an instruction for the dealerships how to adjust the gear boxes in case of bad shifting behavior.
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Most of the shifting problems being reported magically disappear when the shift lever is adjusted to the riding position of the rider and the clutch is adjusted to the proper specs. In the first 500 miles I probably had three false neutrals. None since.
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I will add that my INT650 had many false neutrals and one time popped out of 6th to a false neutral while running 65 mph. This all happened while the transmission was notchy, stiff and unpleasant. As the transmission seemed to be breaking in the false neutrals became less and less and from memory the last 250-300 miles there were none.
When it was put away for winter it shifted like I had read they would, smooth, positive and slick.
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Most of the shifting problems being reported magically disappear when the shift lever is adjusted to the riding position of the rider and the clutch is adjusted to the proper specs. In the first 500 miles I probably had three false neutrals. None since.
I already adjusted the shift lever to my feet size and riding position (expected that the stock position may not fit for somebody 6ft6" tall, wearing 12 size boots). But I will follow your suggestion and ask the dealer to check the clutch adjustment. Thanks for the hint!
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Same here, most of the time. Sometimes the shift slips smoothly and silently into 2nd but that's the exception.
Hey, this is the very same problem I've been facing. Sometimes it's very smooth but then most of the time 1st to 2nd is gritty and clunks into place.
I will be taking my bike to the service centre next week. Will keep this thread posted on what the guys over there have to say about this
Thanks.
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Daddy v, is that 4 thousand kilometres. I recently posted a view that the GT has a more positive gear change than the Interceptor, which can only be the linkage / leverage. Assuming that your chain is adjusted correctly ? If owners could give us thumbs up or down on both models we could solve a common problem. As a last thought, has anybody had a gearbox failure?
Hey, yes it's 4000 kilometers. I've read about the linkage too. Will be taking it to the service centre this week.
Thanks
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Does the cable need adjusting up a bit. They can stretch a bit during the early days. I usually set around 3/32" (2-2.5 mm) free play on mine. Also have a look at the linkage mount and move it around a notch for more direct leverage if necessary. You will have to readjust the screw shaft length if doing this. It may also be the oil needing a change.
Hey, I will look into the linkage position.
Thanks.
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My Interceptor is brand spanking new, less than 100 miles on it, and shifting is smooth as butter, positive, neutral easy to find and no false neutrals. I am in Nampa, Idaho USA.
(http://www.sherv.net/cm/emo/valentine/true-love-smiley-emoticon.gif)
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My Continental just broke through the 900 mile mark. Have kept RPMs between 3,000 and 4,000 until recently when I have allowed myself to do some short transportation sections of a ride at 4,500 with shifting sometimes occurring at 5,000. Longest rides have been an hour out and back with rest and snack at the turn around point. Taking it super duper easy as I have never owned a brand spanking new motorcycle and I want this one to last until I'm too old (at 67.5 years now).
Any issues with shifting have been a result of a clumsy user (me). Otherwise smooth and quiet.
Neutral to first gear clonk much quieter than a BMW r65ls I owned.
I typically let motor idle while I put on riding gear; helmet, prescription glasses (real juggling match with a full face helmet), jacket, and gloves. Don't know how long it takes but then again haven't headed out into blistering cold weather so I figure the motor warms up okay.
Regular oil changes with suggested pokes and prods to spokes, chain, nuts and bolts.
All good so far as described in various online articles from different countries and suggested in YouTube videos from different countries as well.
Looking to get a set of hard bags to facilitate some long range trips with camping, hotels or hostels if they can be found in the USofA (Yeehaw).
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Looking to get a set of hard bags to facilitate some long range trips with camping, hotels or hostels if they can be found in the USofA (Yeehaw).
Have you found the riding position on the GT 650 comfortable for long range trips?
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Many thanks to all of you who could be bothered to answer, it does seem likely that the remote gear change and / or lever adjustment is the culprit. Most owner's would agree that at ideal engine / road speed's that the gearbox is superb, and that nowhere has there been a failure.
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My Continental just broke through the 900 mile mark. Have kept RPMs between 3,000 and 4,000 until recently when I have allowed myself to do some short transportation sections of a ride at 4,500 with shifting sometimes occurring at 5,000. Longest rides have been an hour out and back with rest and snack at the turn around point. Taking it super duper easy as I have never owned a brand spanking new motorcycle and I want this one to last until I'm too old (at 67.5 years now).
Any issues with shifting have been a result of a clumsy user (me). Otherwise smooth and quiet.
Neutral to first gear clonk much quieter than a BMW r65ls I owned.
I typically let motor idle while I put on riding gear; helmet, prescription glasses (real juggling match with a full face helmet), jacket, and gloves. Don't know how long it takes but then again haven't headed out into blistering cold weather so I figure the motor warms up okay.
Regular oil changes with suggested pokes and prods to spokes, chain, nuts and bolts.
All good so far as described in various online articles from different countries and suggested in YouTube videos from different countries as well.
Looking to get a set of hard bags to facilitate some long range trips with camping, hotels or hostels if they can be found in the USofA (Yeehaw).
Hard bags will be limited by the upswept exhaust. I would consider the Indian made (AEW I think, 201) mufflers to give you more room. Viking bags are well made and not too costly like some European brands. They are universal fit so are a fiddly figuring them out. I have a set on my Triumph. Fake leather over hard plastic. Lockable and waterproof.
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On the gearshift issue I find the box on my 1500 mile Interceptor to be superb going up but unfortunately the same cant be said coming down. Out on the road changing down for a bend is no issue but stopping for junctions is where the problem lies.
The box doesn't like going down several gears sequentially, either a s a block change or releasing the clutch each time. Anyone else have this issue or can suggest a cure for mine? I've adjusted both the clutch lever and gear lever to no avail.
Any and all thoughts welcome.
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How's your chain tension? That can have an effect on gear change quality.
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How's your chain tension? That can have an effect on gear change quality.
Yeah, it's spot on as well. As I say the actual change is good, it just doesn't like coming down the box to a standstill. Any bike I've had before would accept multiple downchanges either with one clutch pull or a clutch pull for each change. My Interceptor is happy with one downchange, clutch out to engage some drive then another downchange but not changes one after the other. I'm wondering if the slipper clutch may have something to do with it, maybe not re-engaging unless there is a load on it?
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Sometimes changing the angle of the shift lever can improve changing gears. Perhaps raising the lever slightly will provide a more positive downshift. It has worked for me on other motorcycles.
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I can do multiple down shifts on a single clutch pull....but only have tried it in higher gears...such as 6,5,4....or 4,3,2, etc.
Many (most) vehicles (cars, bikes) don't like to be shifted into first from second, unless you are either fully stopped, or going really, really slowly! At least this is my experience. I had many cars which did not have "syncro" first.
Cookie
Yeah, it's spot on as well. As I say the actual change is good, it just doesn't like coming down the box to a standstill. Any bike I've had before would accept multiple downchanges either with one clutch pull or a clutch pull for each change. My Interceptor is happy with one downchange, clutch out to engage some drive then another downchange but not changes one after the other. I'm wondering if the slipper clutch may have something to do with it, maybe not re-engaging unless there is a load on it?
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Only 1000 miles on my Interceptor ,and every thing as smooth as silk , gearbox , engine ,brakes and the riding position
it's a real joy to ride , even on our mostly crappy UK roads !!! :D
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Hello 5speedy My 650 is also reluctant to downshift ant low speed/RPM, and likes one gear at a time. I have just adapted my shifting accordingly. I downshift at a slightly higher RPM, and blip the throttle to match gears. No big deal.Try keeping the revs up a bit. MY Hayabusa tranny acts the same way.
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Last time out I adapted my gearchange technique and have found the answer I think. The box shifts easier going up than it does coming down so needs a more positive movement on the way down. Didn't try multi gears with one clutch pull though, one step at a time.
Due to this lockdown I may have to start buying groceries from a shop several miles away and in small quantities so I can make a bike journey "necessary" ;)
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‘ Couple of false neutrals when shifting from 5th to 6th. On one occasion the bike disengaged the 6th gear into false neutral at 130km/h, driving uphill with throttle opened to hold speed. That's an experience nobody needs... Another issue is that the gear box occasionally might snap into 1st gear unexpectedly when you shifted from 2nd to neutral. The neutral light is still on, but the bike seems to have shifted half way into 1st instead proper neutral, and then snaps into 1st and stalls. This happens the more the warmer the gear box gets. Cold the gear box works almost flawless, but then quickly starts to show issues as the gear box warms up.’
I also have had this issue. I wanted to research it a bit before calling the dealer. Also a 2020 GT with about 4K miles
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My Interceptor shifts like butter, cold, warm, or hot.
THIS.
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To me this looks pretty much like an "early adopter" problem. My bike was one of the first lot sold in Germany. ....
The bike does not do faulty shifts all the time, not even frequently. But every now and then, and repeatedly over a 6 month period. ....
I guess this is not a design flaw, but a matter of proper adjustment of the gear box. So it should be possible to get that sufficiently fixed. ....
I guess Royal Enfield is aware of the issue, and they probably will improve their quality assurance process to deliver consistent properly adjusted bikes. For the existing bikes they may develop an instruction for the dealerships how to adjust the gear boxes in case of bad shifting behavior.
I think you are right. Mine shifts like a dream (sorry). I just took a look to see what the plate on the end of the shift drum looks like. Pages 105-106 service manual. The good news is that is a very straight forward and very conventional. From the drawings it is similar to the '70s Honda CB350. That is also good news. They shifted very well. When they got old the pin-star would get a bit rounded off and need replacing. Small job.
- From the rider's prospective, this system needs to "ratchet" all the way back between shifts. Sometimes just adjusting the position of the shift lever smooths things out. We tend to think that the bikes "gets better with some mile on it". Most of time we simply end up adjusting our foot.
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I have just posted a note about my Interceptor slipping out of sixth gear when it is pulling up a hill at about 4000RPM it has now done it 4 times. At first I thought it was me getting used to a new bike but as i have been riding over 50 years I don't think so. Also I have had the situation where the neutral light is on, but it is still in first. The bike has done 3100miles. All comments would be welcome.
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Think the problem is in the Rube Goldberg shifting mechanism which is not aligned with the center axis of the bike. In another thread (Shifting Technique or pre-loading the shifter) I detailed going with a Continental shifter on the Interceptor. There are way too many moving parts in the shifting mechanism from the factory. The Conti shifter comes directly off the transmission spline and works great on the Interceptor. Removing all that hardware, foot rest and all, I moved the passenger foot peg down to the lower hole (after running a tap to clean the threads) and locked it in with a nut.
This lowers the peg and moves it to the rear a bit. At 900 miles +, shifting is positive and very smooth.
I wouldn't fool with the stock shifter and expect much from it, too much free play with the turnbuckles and angles. I played with mine quite a bit before going with a Conti shifter, about $31 USD from the dealer.
Good Luck.
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Think the problem is in the Rube Goldberg shifting mechanism which is not aligned with the center axis of the bike. In another thread (Shifting Technique or pre-loading the shifter) I detailed going with a Continental shifter on the Interceptor. There are way too many moving parts in the shifting mechanism from the factory. The Conti shifter comes directly off the transmission spline and works great on the Interceptor. Removing all that hardware, foot rest and all, I moved the passenger foot peg down to the lower hole (after running a tap to clean the threads) and locked it in with a nut.
This lowers the peg and moves it to the rear a bit. At 900 miles +, shifting is positive and very smooth.
I wouldn't fool with the stock shifter and expect much from it, too much free play with the turnbuckles and angles. I played with mine quite a bit before going with a Conti shifter, about $31 USD from the dealer.
Good Luck.
Yeah any linkage setup is just problems waiting to happen. I see so many things on the Interceptor I don’t like. Sorry to everyone😩😩😩😩
If I didn’t fall in lust with the GT I simply wouldn’t have a bike now.
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Yeah any linkage setup is just problems waiting to happen. I see so many things on the Interceptor I don’t like. Sorry to everyone😩😩😩😩
If I didn’t fall in lust with the GT I simply wouldn’t have a bike now.
Good thing they make both then! :)
I couldn't do the GT because of carpal tunnel in the wrists. And more me the Interceptor looks plenty right and does most things right enough for my style of riding. It's easy to find things to play with and adjust but I'm not trying to me it (or me) something neither of us was ever intended to be.
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While the INT650 shift linkage has a lot of parts, and is cheaply made with lots of "slop"....shifting isn't really all that complicated....you just have to get to the next gear ....by moving the lever at eh trans.....no matter how much slop there is ..you can still move the lever...
I think guys with shifting problems...the problem lies other than the linkage....
Cookie
Yeah any linkage setup is just problems waiting to happen. I see so many things on the Interceptor I don’t like. Sorry to everyone😩😩😩😩
If I didn’t fall in lust with the GT I simply wouldn’t have a bike now.
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I am having problems with my 6th gear dropping out at between 3800 and 4200 Rpm usually when under load. The bike has done 4000miles and is 20 months old, the dealer doesn't seem to believe me but this has happened 8 times now and on every run. I have written to RE direct as I am getting no where with the dealer.
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I am having problems with my 6th gear dropping out at between 3800 and 4200 Rpm usually when under load. The bike has done 4000miles and is 20 months old, the dealer doesn't seem to believe me but this has happened 8 times now and on every run. I have written to RE direct as I am getting no where with the dealer.
Don't run it in 6th in that range. ;)
Won't the dealer test ride it?
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Over the summer the gearshift played up occasionally but only when the engine was warm and usually when I attempted a blockshift. This suggested the lever was sticking in the down position with no load to help pull it back up and something was tightening up due to heat.
Yesterday I took the gearlever and front sprocket cover off for a look followed by the circlip and washer on the gearshift shaft. Everything looked alright but thinking on it the oil seal looked very close to the circlip groove leaving little room for the washer. A little knock with a plug socket pushed the oil seal in by maybe 2mm and refitting the washer and circlip gives a reassuring bit of end float. We're into winter in Scotland now so realistically it'll be spring before I find if the lever behaves as it should but I've high hopes.
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Over the summer the gearshift played up occasionally but only when the engine was warm and usually when I attempted a blockshift. This suggested the lever was sticking in the down position with no load to help pull it back up and something was tightening up due to heat.
Yesterday I took the gearlever and front sprocket cover off for a look followed by the circlip and washer on the gearshift shaft. Everything looked alright but thinking on it the oil seal looked very close to the circlip groove leaving little room for the washer. A little knock with a plug socket pushed the oil seal in by maybe 2mm and refitting the washer and circlip gives a reassuring bit of end float. We're into winter in Scotland now so realistically it'll be spring before I find if the lever behaves as it should but I've high hopes.
True or false ... that seal can be accidentally pushed all the way inside the engine case.
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My Interceptor shift linkage would hit the foot peg on upshifts when adjusted for my 6'3" and size 13 boots. The solution is either grind a bit of clearance in the peg bracket with a file or do as I did and switch it over to GP shifting...which I've always liked a lot better. This involved cutting the linkage tab off of the top of the lever and rewelding it on the bottom. Took a couple tries to get it positioned exactly where it would work correctly and allow the lever to be adjusted but now the thing shifts well.
One thing that might be good to keep in mind after reading through this thread is how the sequential gearbox works on a motorcycle. You are pushing one gear which has tabs sticking out on the side into another with slots to accept the tabs. Between the slots there is solid metal...so if the slots and tabs don't align the shift will be blocked. Both gears revolve at different speeds so they'll soon align...but if you're trying to shift quickly at low rpm and being the 650's run like tractors they're never spinning very fast so lightning quick shifts won't happen like on a Japanese bike spinning over 10,000 rpm. Don't push/pull harder on the lever....just give it a little more time and it'll go in.
The bikes jumping out of gear are from them not being fully seated during the shift. Racing transmissions are 'undercut' where the tabs have an angle ground on them so even if they're not fully seated in the slots that angle will pull them together. Normal transmissions are not undercut so you've got to fully seat each gearchange so make sure the shifter has enough travel (along with some extra clearance) so you're not short stroking it. Notchy 1-2 shifts can be from failing to fully disengage the clutch which can be a mechanical adjustment of cable or mechanism....or just trying to shift too quickly at too low a speed. My Interceptor shits fine as long as I remember to slow down a little compared to my Suzuki (which has a modified transmission star kit) and understand that the higher gears take a little longer throw to shift.
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95% of the time mine shifts better than anything I’ve ever ridden, a few times it’s shifted 1st to neutral feeling like second, not often and not a big deal, occasionally I get a good clunk down shifting 4th to third, for the most part it’s butter smooth. I’ve also found it shifts better with different boots, which is not the bikes fault!
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95% of the time mine shifts better than anything I’ve ever ridden, a few times it’s shifted 1st to neutral feeling like second, not often and not a big deal, occasionally I get a good clunk down shifting 4th to third, for the most part it’s butter smooth. I’ve also found it shifts better with different boots, which is not the bikes fault!
The main reason for a clunky 1st to 2nd shift is to low a road speed. First to second is by far the biggest jump between ratios and you need the gearbox spinning for a clean shift. The gearbox simply isn't turning fast enough at low road speeds for a clean shift 1st to 2nd if you are short shifting it between those gears. Most bikes are the same. Personally I think the travel of the shift lever is a little long on the 650. It's around 35-40mm between most gears and this doesn't help smooth shifting. I've bought a new shift lever and will experiment with lengthening the lever extension where the linkage attaches so the lever travel is reduced to around 25-30mm which is Japanese bike type travel. This promotes a faster shift action and smoother shifting for reasons I can explain but won't bother with at the moment. I've done a mod like this on other bikes and eventually they were put into a production run of modified levers for owners worldwide. They were very popular and everyone thought they improved the shifting a lot.
Ciao
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…they were put into a production run of modified levers…
Hey Phil, the GT seems to be completely lacking in any aftermarket levers. You got any spare time?
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Hey Phil, the GT seems to be completely lacking in any aftermarket levers. You got any spare time?
Here's what I did with mine. Folding tips and lightening holes.
Ciao
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Here's what I did with mine. Folding tips and lightening holes.
Ciao
I have same tips ordered. Don’t really have the tools to cut the holes you did though. Drill press I have, so tips should be easy.
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I have same tips ordered. Don’t really have the tools to cut the holes you did though. Drill press I have, so tips should be easy.
Mine were done with a drill press and bench vice and hand tools, including the lightning slots, oh and my die grinder with a porting tool tip in it. Can be done with basic hand tools and vice if you have the hand skills and a few hours per lever. Hit them with some "cast aluminium" spray can paint when your done and they look nice.
Ciao
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i find the shift on this bike to be fine. not smoother than other bikes. not clunky. its definitely not smoother than my previous suzuki thats for sure. its about the same as on my ducati. i do find the travel to be more than i'd like, but that could just be an adjustment issue.
i do notice over time that shifting definitely feels 'looser' compared to the first 500km on the bike. not sure if that is good or bad. for example i remember i could shift into neutral (say at at stop light) very easily at first. now i have to be more gentle/precise to do it. might just need a clutch cable adjustment or something.
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Hey Phil, the GT seems to be completely lacking in any aftermarket levers. You got any spare time?
Besides cosmetics there's not much to be done with the GT shifter being it is directly on the transmission shaft whereas the Interceptor uses linkage where the leverage/travel ratio can be altered. Short shift levers (on the transmission) are a thing with Suzuki's and really help decrease lever travel needed to shift...but at the expense of increased effort.(which isn't much of a problem)
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Besides cosmetics there's not much to be done with the GT shifter being it is directly on the transmission shaft whereas the Interceptor uses linkage where the leverage/travel ratio can be altered. Short shift levers (on the transmission) are a thing with Suzuki's and really help decrease lever travel needed to shift...but at the expense of increased effort.(which isn't much of a problem)
Yes but the brake side leaves a lot to be desired.
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Adjust and lubricate your clutch cable as has been previously mentioned. Get a spray can of lithium white grease and lubricate everything pertaining to shift linkage. If that doesn't work, find a dealer who will fix your bike and report your current dealer who is stonewalling you on the warranty repair to RENA. A PITA I know but you should not have to live with that problem.
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Besides cosmetics there's not much to be done with the GT shifter being it is directly on the transmission shaft whereas the Interceptor uses linkage where the leverage/travel ratio can be altered. Short shift levers (on the transmission) are a thing with Suzuki's and really help decrease lever travel needed to shift...but at the expense of increased effort.(which isn't much of a problem)
Oh yes forgot about the direct fit on the GT levers. Not much you can do there with regards to lever travel. Some of the reason the shorter ratio helps with shifting is because of the slightly increased shifter effort. When you load the lever with your foot in preparation for a shift the small increase in lever load means when the lever actually releases from the indexing detent it moves faster because there is a little bit more foot pressure on it. It makes a small but noticeable improvement in some gearboxes. The reduced travel also helps if it's a little long to begin with which the 650 is. My 6 speed Guzzi was the same lever travel and after making the modified extension and reducing the lever travel down to 25-30mm the shift improved a lot for the reasons outlined. If you've ever ridden a bike with a light/fatigued shift detent spring you'll know the difference a new on makes to the shift action. same principle. It was never a bad shifting action but the mod brought it into Suzuki category. After riding the RE around for a while and thinking the shift action was 'reasonably good" I got back on the Guzzi and it felt miles better. The short crisp slightly heavier action was much nicer with a tighter feel to it. That's when I bought a new lever for the RE and decided to experiment with it as well.
Ciao
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True or false ... that seal can be accidentally pushed all the way inside the engine case.
Common sense would say it can't but the thought was in my mind which is why I thought a mm or two plenty.
just to clarify the shift on the bike is very good, the clutch correctly adjusted, shift rod ball joints and bushes lubricated. My issue is the lever will stay in the down position occasionally but only with a hot engine. This led me to think it was a clearance issue, clearance being lost due to expansion.
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Mine were done with a drill press and bench vice and hand tools, including the lightning slots, oh and my die grinder with a porting tool tip in it. Can be done with basic hand tools and vice if you have the hand skills and a few hours per lever. Hit them with some "cast aluminium" spray can paint when your done and they look nice.
Ciao
Not as fancy as yours, but I like it. Covered the end of the pedal with shrink tube, same for gear shifter.
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Mine were done with a drill press and bench vice and hand tools, including the lightning slots, oh and my die grinder with a porting tool tip in it. Can be done with basic hand tools and vice if you have the hand skills and a few hours per lever. Hit them with some "cast aluminium" spray can paint when your done and they look nice.
Ciao
Is this you?
https://youtu.be/OTTlIFmfzZU
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Is this you?
https://youtu.be/OTTlIFmfzZU
Hell no, not me. I think I'm a little offended now, lol.
Ciao
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Hell no, not me. I think I'm a little offended now, lol.
Ciao
Ok, no offense meant. Just he shows pretty much exactly what you described. (Modding the brake lever)
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Ok, no offense meant. Just he shows pretty much exactly what you described. (Modding the brake lever)
I'm kidding. I don't like round lightening holes in things in the main, it looks amateur hour, like a total rookie went mad with a power drill hence my slotted levers. Even factory MV racers back in the 50's and 60's used to swiss cheese their bikes for goodness sake. Then again a works My was a pretty rough old diamond.
Ciao
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Over the summer the gearshift played up occasionally but only when the engine was warm and usually when I attempted a blockshift. This suggested the lever was sticking in the down position with no load to help pull it back up and something was tightening up due to heat.
Yesterday I took the gearlever and front sprocket cover off for a look followed by the circlip and washer on the gearshift shaft. Everything looked alright but thinking on it the oil seal looked very close to the circlip groove leaving little room for the washer. A little knock with a plug socket pushed the oil seal in by maybe 2mm and refitting the washer and circlip gives a reassuring bit of end float. We're into winter in Scotland now so realistically it'll be spring before I find if the lever behaves as it should but I've high hopes.
Post winter update on the Interceptor gearchange quality. I'm pleased to say the after a few runs and getting the engine nice and warm there have been no further instances of the gearlever sticking in the down position. So it looks like a slightly incorrectly fitted oil seal has been the cause of my woes over the last two summers. grin factor of the bike is back where is shoild be now.
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My gearbox and clutch work really well. Do check that free play on time though. I have the Venhill clutchcable and that one seems to be a lot better.
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May be a completely different problem/issue here. If I go down 2 gears quickly, like 6 to 5 to 4 really quick under brakes every now and then the bike will start to surge. Thats 2 down shifts under brakes with a blip really quick. Fueling a bit confused? Gear box a bit confused? I'm usually tipping into a round a bout and will go up or down a gear as the surging has me worried it may hit neutral or something worse. Its odd, not all the time and under specific circumstances. Otherwise the 'box is quite good.
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Well mine shifts like butter up and down but l did run in carefully, the first thing l would do is check clutch free play then linkage adjustment, chain free play preferably with the weight on paddock stand, if that fails take it to the dealer if under warranty, it should not shift like that but buttery smooth.
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… Gear box a bit confused? …
Pretty sure the gearbox is a linear progression, so don’t see how it could get confused.
Like others stated I would look at clutch and chsin.
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Pretty sure the gearbox is a linear progression, so don’t see how it could get confused.
Like others stated I would look at clutch and chsin.
You're right Jess. The shifter mechanism is a ratchet. I'd check that the our feet let the shifter click back to the next throw.
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The shifting issue from 1-2 is my greatest ding about the INT. Good tips in this thread, and I will see if anything helps. Around 500 miles on mine and every other time I can't get it into 2nd gear without getting stuck in neutral. I love the bike but this issue is a constant downer and very annoying if not dangerous. I've owned dozens of bikes and never had a problem like this. The dealer did NOT help. In fact, when I brought it to them for the 300-mile break in service, I brought up this problem. So they told me that two of them rode my INT650 and neither one had the SLIGHTEST problem like I was complaining about- even when they tried to shift too early, under travel, etc.- implying that I was merely a noob and should "learn to shift". BS, and they were lying. Do they not get paid for warranty work? I have bout many new bikes in my life but honestly, this was the worst setup bike from the dealer ever. They sent me off on my ride home from the dealership when I bought it with crazy under-inflated tires and I just now adjusted the chain, to find that the rear axel was way far out of alignment, and no doubt has been ever since I bought the bike. It handles so much better now, lol.
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The shifting issue from 1-2 is my greatest ding about the INT. Good tips in this thread, and I will see if anything helps. Around 500 miles on mine and every other time I can't get it into 2nd gear without getting stuck in neutral. I love the bike but this issue is a constant downer and very annoying if not dangerous. I've owned dozens of bikes and never had a problem like this. The dealer did NOT help. In fact, when I brought it to them for the 300-mile break in service, I brought up this problem. So they told me that two of them rode my INT650 and neither one had the SLIGHTEST problem like I was complaining about- even when they tried to shift too early, under travel, etc.- implying that I was merely a noob and should "learn to shift". BS, and they were lying. Do they not get paid for warranty work? I have bout many new bikes in my life but honestly, this was the worst setup bike from the dealer ever. They sent me off on my ride home from the dealership when I bought it with crazy under-inflated tires and I just now adjusted the chain, to find that the rear axel was way far out of alignment, and no doubt has been ever since I bought the bike. It handles so much better now, lol.
have you tried actually adjusting the angle of the shift lever to suit your feet/shoes/boots/whatever?
on my ducati i replaced the entire rearset/levers/pegs etc and found it incredibly awkward shifting. it wasnt until a minor adjustment in the angle that it became smooth as butter again.
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The shifting issue from 1-2 is my greatest ding about the INT. Good tips in this thread, and I will see if anything helps. Around 500 miles on mine and every other time I can't get it into 2nd gear without getting stuck in neutral. I love the bike but this issue is a constant downer and very annoying if not dangerous. I've owned dozens of bikes and never had a problem like this. The dealer did NOT help. In fact, when I brought it to them for the 300-mile break in service, I brought up this problem. So they told me that two of them rode my INT650 and neither one had the SLIGHTEST problem like I was complaining about- even when they tried to shift too early, under travel, etc.- implying that I was merely a noob and should "learn to shift". BS, and they were lying. Do they not get paid for warranty work? I have bout many new bikes in my life but honestly, this was the worst setup bike from the dealer ever. They sent me off on my ride home from the dealership when I bought it with crazy under-inflated tires and I just now adjusted the chain, to find that the rear axel was way far out of alignment, and no doubt has been ever since I bought the bike. It handles so much better now, lol.
What rpm do you shift from 1st to 2nd?
Phil
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have you tried actually adjusting the angle of the shift lever to suit your feet/shoes/boots/whatever?
+1.
I was starting to find unwanted neutrals recently after refitting the lever too high. When I adjusted it downward the problem disappeared.
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Decrease clutch freeplay, check that the allen bolt on the shift linkage is snug, "load" the gearshift lever before shifting, and stay in 1st longer, shift into 2nd at a higher RPM. My transmission was initially reluctant, but at 3500 miles it is very smooth.
Also, try to avoid delaying your shift after clutching-shift immediately with clutch lever depression
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If two mechanics from the shop rode it and found nothing wrong with it then it must be something like your boots being hard to get under the shift lever or something crazy like that. Either they are lying or there is nothing wrong with your bike and it is something peculiar to you. The gearbox is one of the delights of this bike.
Has it always been an issue from new? Can you get someone else you trust to ride it and report back?
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If two mechanics from the shop rode it and found nothing wrong with it then it must be something like your boots being hard to get under the shift lever or something crazy like that. Either they are lying or there is nothing wrong with your bike and it is something peculiar to you. The gearbox is one of the delights of this bike.
Has it always been an issue from new? Can you get someone else you trust to ride it and report back?
I have always found the gearbox to be excellent, as has every review I’ve ever read.
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The problem may well be a lack of road speed as I've mentioned before. New bike and riding it very conservatively per the silly RE run in limits. So first to second change at 15-20 kph and it's going to be a horrible balky shift and may not even go into second. A constant mesh motorcycle gearbox needs to rotate at a decent speed to give a clean shift. The mechanics would jump on it and ride it like they stole it or at the very least reasonable briskly and have no issues. If the OP is babying it around short shifting it at low speeds esp from 1st to 2nd then that may be an issue. It's another small benefit in going to a 16 tooth countershaft sprocket. If you change first to second at the same rpm you're now carrying a little more road speed so the gearbox is rotating slightly faster and you get a cleaner first to second shift.
Phil
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The problem may well be a lack of road speed as I've mentioned before. New bike and riding it very conservatively per the silly RE run in limits. So first to second change at 15-20 kph and it's going to be a horrible balky shift and may not even go into second. A constant mesh motorcycle gearbox needs to rotate at a decent speed to give a clean shift. The mechanics would jump on it and ride it like they stole it or at the very least reasonable briskly and have no issues. If the OP is babying it around short shifting it at low speeds esp from 1st to 2nd then that may be an issue. It's another small benefit in going to a 16 tooth countershaft sprocket. If you change first to second at the same rpm you're now carrying a little more road speed so the gearbox is rotating slightly faster and you get a cleaner first to second shift.
Phil
+1
Agree. I think there are extremes on both ends of the spectrum of new riders nowadays. Some are way over-cautious, babying them to death because of the very conservative break-in warnings in the new owner's manuals & on the other extreme are the new riders who think they should be able to rev an Enfield to 12,000 in every gear every time like the racer boys they see on YooToob simply because they just don't know any motorcycle history & don't care & won't listen to sage advice.
My '08 AVL 5-speed shifts like butter & I can't see why these new (& WAY better built from the factory) Enfields shouldn't be the same or better (& I believe they ARE) if the clutch, chain & shift lever heights (for the rider's particular foot gear) are adjusted right correctly.
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My 1st is a little bit clunky, and some times I “find” some false neutrals between 4th and 5th gear. And how about the brand of the engine oil that each of us use. The engine has wet clutch, so engine oil will make differences in shifting. I use Motul 7100 10W50
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I hate bad shifting gearboxes. Fortunately, my '21 Interceptor is not one of those so equipped. It's a very clean shifter, but for a slight "clunk" engaging bottom gear at a stop. That is a natural consequence of the "wet" clutch. My Moto Guzzi has a dry clutch and it totally silent when bottom gear is engaged.
I second the suggestion to have the dealer examine it.
Ralph
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My Interceptor shifts like butter, cold, warm, or hot.
THIS.
YEP
5900 miles so far and the gearbox box keeps getting better.
There are a few tricks like better blipping and winding out 1st into 2nd a bit more.
After riding a vintage 4-speed Bullet for the last few days, this thing is practically and automatic transmission.