[Blaqkfox]

How much chain slack am I supposed to have and what are the torque specs for the axle nut and locking nut behind it?

trying to adjust my chain rn and can't find the toque specs in the manual. iirc I read somewhere chain slack is supposed to be 2in with the bike on the center stand, that seems like a lot to me.

[Paul W]

My workshop manual says 25-30mm free play with the bike on its centre stand.

I haven’t checked against the online manual found in the link at the header of this section of the forum….it might be there!

I don’t use a torque wrench for this job. I tighten by hand to “what I know won’t move in service”.

Book figures:

Rear wheel lock nut = 650 lb inch.
Rear wheel spindle castle nut = 565 lb inch.

[AzCal Retred]

Minimum slack is when the countershaft sprocket centre, the swingarm pivot bole center & the axle all line up. Another niggle is that the chain doesn't always wear uniformly. Yet another is that the 3rd bearing in the rear hub, the sprocket carrier, can be damaged but still rolling and cause eccentricity in the sprocket orbit. On the centerstand my Bullets seem to like about 2" (Finger pressure, lift up), but rotate to verify this is at the tightest unloaded position. If the chain flop goes from 2 1/2" to 1 1/2" you'll usually want to do some investigating.

"How much chain slack am I supposed to have and what are the torque specs for the axle nut and locking nut behind it?"
"I don’t use a torque wrench for this job. I tighten by hand to “what I know won’t move in service”." DITTO!  These machines are user friendly, not space shuttles.

[Paul W]

When these bikes were designed, I doubt if many owners knew what a torque wrench was! 

What I do have to deal with the brake plate nut (bought it specially for the job) is a 30mm, ring type slogging spanner. It’s short enough to be carried on the bike with the rest of the tools so the chain could be adjusted away from home. I did have to grind the outer edge to get it to fit on the nut rather than making contact with the lower coil over eye. The tool kit I got with the bike already included 24mm and 18mm open ended spanners for the castle nut and the brake plate arm securing nut. I removed the split pin and use an R clip to lock the castle nut.

[Blaqkfox]

Thanks for the figures! So that’s 54ft lbs on the axle nut and 47ft lbs on the retaining nut.

That’s actually much higher than I have mine set. Most bikes I’ve worked on at the shop were usually in the 50-60ft lb range. So I assumed it could be around there. But some bmw bikes like the old /5s had a pretty low torque spec at 33ft lbs.

So I only did 35ft lbs the other day (for fear too much would crush the bearings).

I’ll have to go back and tighten things up then.

As for the chain slack and runout, the sprockets runout is fine. I was just concerned when I rolled the bike around the shop and heard the chain clinking on the swingarm. It doesn’t if I’m on the bike. But it wouldn’t take much swing arm movement for it to rub i imagine. I sat it at 2in while on the center stand unladen and it still does it. It was not much better than where I started.

Might have to go back and adjust it a bit tighter.

[Paul W]

I quoted the book figures, but TBH I usually set my chain so that it just clears the top of the swing arm on the overrun, which on my bike is about the same thing.

[tooseevee]

   The Owner's Manual that came with my '08 AVL Classic (it's actually an Electra-X manual) sez 1" on the upper run of the chain. Then there's a picture with an arrow pointing at the lower run of the chain.

    It also doesn't specify whether that's the "push it up" dimension, the "push it down" dimension or the whole range from up to down so who knows? I don't even think they know. Or care.

     I run the bike on the center stand in whatever gear I feel like & watch the chain. If it doesn't wave too much or tie itself in a knot, I'm happy. Also you get to know by feel if it's OK.

     I don't hear of many Enfield riders being thrown into a ditch by their chain causing acute eclampsia.
     

[Blaqkfox]

I have to put a board under my bike in order to have the rear wheel off the ground when its on the center stand lol

but maybe ill give that a go. I mean shoot, it works and the sprockets look fine so its probably fine.

it bugs me to no end how vague the manual is. im very much a torque wrench in one hand, measuring device in the other kinda guy.

[Paul W]

Pulling the bike up onto a plank under the centre stand can be hard work. I use two separate pieces, one for each side of the stand. I put the bike on the centre stand then rock it away from whilst pushing the piece of wood under the stand with my foot. Then go round the other side of the bike and do the same there.

I actually use two square wooden fence post caps I had going spare.

[Blaqkfox]

yeah it is. I can't believe I hadn't thought to do that. I have so much wood in my barn, especially small congruent pieces that would be perfect.

[AzCal Retred]

Take a hard look at the center stand and pivots, on the stand the rear wheel should be elevated enough to roll the rear wheel. Worn pivots or bent parts are common. I run 4.00x19 rear & 3.50x19 front and the rear tire still clears, even if not by much.

"it bugs me to no end how vague the manual is. im very much a torque wrench in one hand, measuring device in the other kinda guy."
"Learn to use the Force, Luke".  It'll be fine for other than the crankpin nuts...

[Adrian II]

What crankpin nuts? That's more iron barrel talk! 

A.

[AzCal Retred]

Hokay then, the 10 tonne press used to assemble the crankpin to the flywheel halves then...

[allanfox]

Remember the dimension given is when you are not on the bike and is intended to allow for you weight (and banging over bumps etc) when you get on and compress the rear shocks, so how much you weigh will have a bearing on the chain tension, if you can get a mate to check it when you are on the bike and so how much slack there is.