Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
General Discussion => Tech Tips => Topic started by: Blck Pepper on January 03, 2014, 01:09:26 am
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Hey folks I have a leaking carby out the overflow tube. I think I may be missing a ball bearing' is this likely? Does anyone know where I can get another? I'm in Australia.
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Try whacking the carb bowl with the handle of a screwdriver or hammer. Most likely your float valve is stuck. If you haven't had the carb apart for cleaning you will probably need to get in there and give it a thorough cleaning.
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Thanks I'll give it a go.I have recently cleaned the carby.
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Sounds like you lost the float needle that goes in the carb inlet. Should look something like this.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y217/lethalinj/FloatNeedle_zps14d234cd.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lethalinj/media/FloatNeedle_zps14d234cd.jpg.html)
Scottie
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Thanks Scottie I'll pull it apart again. Is it easy to find? Do you know were I can get one?
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Thanks Scottie I'll pull it apart again. Is it easy to find? Do you know were I can get one?
It depends on what carb you have. If it's a Mikuni you can buy it at any bike parts shop for a couple of bucks. If it's an Amal carb you will need to buy it from a British bike parts supplier or Ebay. I would just take the carb to the parts shop to make sure you get the right one. If it's an Amal carb, I may have an extra one.
Scottie
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Blck Pepper you probably aren't missing your float valve. What has probably happened is it got gunked up from sitting for so long and needs to be cleaned or replaced. Most likely you have a Mikcarb which is Royal Enfield's copy of the Mikuni VM 28. On a lot of carbs the needle is rubber tipped so the seat is part of the carb body and highly polished. On the Mikcarb the the needle is metal with a screw in seat. You will have to by a new seat and needle (#33 @ link) from a local RE dealer/parts distributor or order them online. Probably just buy a rebuild kit and the needle and seat will be i there too.
http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/pages/760/Mikcarb+Carburettor (http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/pages/760/Mikcarb+Carburettor)
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Another possibility since the carb has recently been taken apart is the fiber washer (find no. 14 in the hitchcock link) is missing or it is cracked.
After a few years these fiber gaskets can become brittle.
If this is the case, a similar fiber washer that will work can be found at many motorcycle dealers.
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Another possibility since the carb has recently been taken apart is the fiber washer (find no. 14 in the hitchcock link) is missing or it is cracked.
After a few years these fiber gaskets can become brittle.
If this is the case, a similar fiber washer that will work can be found at many motorcycle dealers.
That washer comes in the oem rebuild kit.
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I didn't see where BlckPepper said he used a rebuild kit. He just said he had cleaned it.
I agree, if he buys a rebuild kit he will have the washer/gaskets, speaking of which, the one under the main jet can also crack and drive a person nuts while he trys to figure out why the bike is running rich. :)
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I didn't see where BlckPepper said he used a rebuild kit. He just said he had cleaned it.
I agree, if he buys a rebuild kit he will have the washer/gaskets, speaking of which, the one under the main jet can also crack and drive a person nuts while he trys to figure out why the bike is running rich. :)
The washer under the main jet is brass. I can't imagine it cracking.
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Blltrdr - You know what happens when you assume things right? ??? Just because the bike originally came with a Mikarb doesn't mean there is still one on there. And why do you assume that it's missing or damaged gasket that would cause fuel to pour out of the overflow?
Hey folks I have a leaking carby out the overflow tube. I think I may be missing a ball bearing' is this likely? Does anyone know where I can get another? I'm in Australia.
He even said right in his quote that he believes he is missing a part. Can you guess what part allows fuel into the bowl, shuts the fuel off when it's full and and spews fuel out the overflow when it's missing? ???
Anyways, you need to find out what model carb you have and probably go spend $10 on a rebuild kit.
Scottie
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Scottie you are a very funny dude. But before you point fingers look in the mirror when you say assume (read your first post). As I see it, assumptions are what drive this forum. A good percentage of members are those that have little knowledge about their bikes and part of finding solutions for those new to their bikes is to make assumptions based on experience. I assume Mr. Pepper's bike has a Mikcarb until he says differently. Also who said anything about a gasket (I think you read someone else's post)? I'm only suggesting a rebuild kit because it comes with most everything you need for a rebuild and as you know having some extra carb parts is not a bad thing. I myself have many spares! You do realize members chime in hoping to give someone a hand with there problems. Until he actually tears the carb apart and takes an inventory of the internal parts all one can do is assume what carb it is, what is needing replacement or what is missing. It is and always will be a team effort helping others on the forum. I would ASSUME you could control all if the forum was called Scottie's Royal Enfield U.S. Forum.
Long live the King! clap...cheer...clap...NOT
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Also the float may have sunk. As for the needle and seat, you can usually look at them and tell if they're worn out. As for finding it take the float bowl off and you'll see the float dangling there. The needle is what the float is attached to and moves up and down with the float into the body of the carb, seating against the seat.
To check the float for floatability, if it's brass, shake it and listen for gas sloshing around inside. If it kinda plasticish, some are hollow and you can shake them, but some are foam and you need to squeeze them lightly and see if gas squeezes out.
As for missing parts, that's pretty unlikely because the only parts that control fuel going into the tank are the float and needle. I can't think of any ball bearings in a carb! Do they make the fuel flow faster? Even with the gas on at the tank , the fuel shouldn't be running out without some problem with the needle and seat.
Bare
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Also the float may have sunk. As for the needle and seat, you can usually look at them and tell if they're worn out. As for finding it take the float bowl off and you'll see the float dangling there. The needle is what the float is attached to and moves up and down with the float into the body of the carb, seating against the seat.
To check the float for floatability, if it's brass, shake it and listen for gas sloshing around inside. If it kinda plasticish, some are hollow and you can shake them, but some are foam and you need to squeeze them lightly and see if gas squeezes out.
As for missing parts, that's pretty unlikely because the only parts that control fuel going into the tank are the float and needle. I can't think of any ball bearings in a carb! Do they make the fuel flow faster? Even with the gas on at the tank , the fuel shouldn't be running out without some problem with the needle and seat.
Bare
Bare, great assumption. There are a few things that can cause a carb to overflow and a leaky float is one of them. For a bike to sit for a long time the likelihood of problems with the float needle and seat is very high. Deposits of rust particles, old lacquered gas and corrosion will definitely keep a needle from seating properly. A hole in the float is less likely but a check is part of the basic troubleshooting. A thorough go over of the fuel system is a must. If the bike was stored all those years without a full tank it most likely has rust deposits. If so Br. Pepper will need to take the tank off and clean it. The petcock will also need to be checked and cleaned. A inline fuel filter is a must once everything is cleaned and put back together. Once Br. pepper disassembles the carb he should also take note of the jet sizes and post them here for evaluation. Plenty of info to set up the carb properly for his altitude and climate.
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;D ;D ;D
In all fairness I just based my assumption on the information provided and personal experience.
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;D ;D ;D
In all fairness I just based my assumption on the information provided and personal experience.
Exactly, this is all we can do. Relevant or not, any advise is better than none. Plenty of folks here to steer the ship if it does get off course.
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Magic woohoo. After 10 years 4th and she started. Thanks for all the help guys. Top forum. Now for the electrics. Anyone know why flash high beam is working but my normal beam and normal high beam are not?
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That's hard saying. I would do a very thorough inspection of the complete wire harness and determine the state it is in and where there are failures. If it seems to be ok and in working order, then just repair whatever small areas you have to fix . Could be a bad switch too. You'll just have to dig into and find the problem. If you don't already own one buy a multimeter and learn how to use it, it will make your life much easier.
Scottie
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Magic woohoo. After 10 years 4th and she started. Thanks for all the help guys. Top forum. Now for the electrics. Anyone know why flash high beam is working but my normal beam and normal high beam are not?
I would take a look at your wiring to the headlight. See what color wires hook to which prong then compare with your wiring diagram. If you don't have diagram pm me with your year of Bullet and I will send you one.
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It's got to be in the dimmer switch if the flasher is working. Look for power going to the dimmer switch. I had one that was assembled wrong from the factory, I fixed it, then had to replace it from a crash. This tore up the outer case. The new one never seemed to give full power to the headlight. I was getting nearly a volt drop from the battery to the light bulb. I never did figure out what was causing the drop. One of the old guys on the forum said the wires were to small in the wiring harness to carry the needed amperage. I couldn't dispute his claim. I ended up having to install relays in the light system to run directly from the battery to the headlight bulb through the relays. I used heavier wire running to the headlight. I used the power from the dimmer switch to activate the relays. The lights were great after that.
Bare
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+1 to the multimeter (volt/ohm meter). Without this, chasing problems in an electrical circuit is like looking for a acorn on a moonless night.
The following might not exactly match the wiring on a RE but the basic principles should be right.
If the parking lights (casquette eyes and tail light) are working with the headlight/parking light/off switch in the parking light position that would indicate the switch is getting power from the keyed ignition switch.
This switch should have at least a power in, parking lights out, headlight out terminal or wire.
Changing this switch to the "Headlight position" I would then check the headlight output terminal at that switch to see if the switch was working correctly. If there is power coming in but no power out, the switch is the problem.
If the headlight power output terminal is powered with the switch in the "headlight" position, the next thing to check is the High/Low beam switch.
Is the power getting to its input terminal? If it is, check the high/low output terminals at that switch.
If the High and Low beam output terminals can be turned off and on by changing the switch lever, the problem is the wiring between that switch and the headlight.