[Bilgemaster]

     A person can go to any modern paint dealer/shop and have his paint scanned into their computer which will formulate the color which will then be created and put in rattle cans for you.

      I don't know how they do the various surface conditions like flat or matte or satin, but they're very good at it especially shops that specialize in restoration.

Yeah...Come to think of it, I did something similar with matching the Amphicar's "Fjord Green" back already more than 20 years ago when the code I had for it turned out just way too dark. I imagine thirty years of UV and oxidation had done their thing. Even then, we had to squirt in a little extra dab of white tint for a proper match when dried. I guess I was just hoping our hosts might have some decent off the shelf options, since I like to toss a little custom their way from time to time as thanks for making this Forum happen.

[Stogierob]

I'm cheating on the color (colour ;-)) since I don't have a color to match.

here's my source - www.surplusjeep.com/trspaint.htm

I also bought a packet of military paint swatches (sadly very small) to try and match my 08 military.  Nothing in the US WWII colors was even close to the 08 military factory paint.

Since the Brit's green was darker than what the yanks used on their jeeps, I chose the Marine Corps Green #23 as the color for my 350.

And for future touch-ups, i'll use the 'in the field, slap it on with a brush' technique to add some character to the bike.  for now, spray paint is my friend.  I also got a tip from a very knowledgeable reenactor that using a glossy clear coat and then spraying a matte clear coat will help with the dings and nicks during use.  the gloss dries harder than the matte, but the matte is the desired finish.  Ammo boots with hobnails are not very forgiving to a paint job.

Thanks!
Rob

[Adrian II]

http://gpoclocksystems.byethost22.com/misc/index.html?i=1

Might help.

A.

[Dennisgb]

If your doing spray cans use a good quality 2 part clear coat or your finish will be destroyed by gasoline. 2K clear is available in cans:

https://www.spraymax.com/en/products/product/clear-coats-and-spot-blender/2k-clear-coat/

[Bilgemaster]

http://gpoclocksystems.byethost22.com/misc/index.html?i=1

Might help.

A.

"Might help?" That must be some of that famous British understatement there. Sir, that is one of the finest, perhaps THE finest, overall Royal Enfield websites that exists! I couldn't bookmark it quickly enough. How I hadn't come across it before is a real mystery. But now that I have something great to pore over, I don't feel nearly so bad about the rotten cold weather here.

[Adrian II]

Understatement or just lazy when it comes to typing? 

The gentleman who compiled all that stuff is a serious enthusiast, we merely bask in the results of his labo(u)r.

A.

[Arizoni]

http://gpoclocksystems.byethost22.com/misc/index.html?i=1

Might help.

A.

Boy!  That is a lot of valuable stuff packaged into one web site.

[Tarnand]

http://gpoclocksystems.byethost22.com/misc/index.html?i=1

Might help.

A.

Can anyone decipher what is the meaning of WD/CO?   WD is I believe War Department but I could never figure out the CO.

[mrunderhill1975a]

The WD is indeed war dept.  The WD/C model was the 350 motorcycle built for the war dept with a side valve engine.  The WD/CO was a 350 motorcycle with the newer Overhead Valve engine, thus the "O" for overhead.

RE produced several models for the war effort, WD/RE for example was the "125cc Flying Flea".

[Tarnand]

The WD is indeed war dept.  The WD/C model was the 350 motorcycle built for the war dept with a side valve engine.  The WD/CO was a 350 motorcycle with the newer Overhead Valve engine, thus the "O" for overhead.

Thank you.  Now it makes sense to me.  I just could not resist posting these pics.

[Bilgemaster]

Egads, but that's a fine rugged-looking old scoot! I've always had a weakness for those old girder forks. Is that yours, Tarnand? If so, next time you feel any resistance towards posting pix of it here, please feel free to ignore that impulse.

[Tarnand]

Regretfully it is not mine.  However a bike of this particular model back in 1973 started my never ending love to antique motorcycles.  We were in high school then when in mid spring a friend of mine spotted one in a back yard of a residential home about a mile from where we lived.  The owner planned to use its wheels to build a cart and sold it to him for the value of these wheels.  I cannot remember the actual price but for todays currency it was maybe $200.  The bike was not running but it was COMPLETE even with original paint although strongly faded.  We were kids then with absolutely NO idea what to do with it or knowing even remotely competent adult who would give us a single advice.  We were just on our own.    We took it all apart then, cleaned, painted and put it all together expecting it to run.  Amazingly we used all the parts and there was not even one "unnecessary" washer left.  However, considering our "knowledge" on the subject there was NO CHANCE that the motor would ever start.  Then the summer started and we left for vacation having it parked in the internal parking lot of the apartment building complex we lived in.  Unfortunately after our return three weeks later the bike was gone.  Early Spring next year I bought my first bike.  It was 1949 BMW R35.  I loved this bike.  The IB I currently own I bought 9 years ago. Now you know why.

Anyway, back to this Royal Enfield; we did not even know what model it was.  Only after mrunderhill1975a mentioned about existence of model WD/C  I googled it and to my surprise I found the posted images. I  instantly recognized the bike.  It bothered me for years. Yes, its motor had side valves.   This is the reason I posted these photos.  Thank you mrunderhill1975a .