Author Topic: GT with Starting issues *Cam *Intake  (Read 3836 times)

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zimmemr

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Reply #15 on: February 14, 2024, 10:03:02 pm
Got it will do

Just for fun I spoke to him to figure out how to pick up my bike.

His statement: I took the cover off, the timing was ok, and the ECU corrects the timing advance."

And that is his reasoning. He asked for an ECU and pulsar ( is that the same as the 3-phase regulator/rectifier btw)

and if it really is the case Id have to order one from hitch, unless a bullet one would do those seem available.

At the risk of being redundant I'd strongly suggest a leak down test. It'll take ten minutes and tell you whether the top end is sealing or not.

If it passes a leak down test, you can be certain the valves, head gasket and rings are good and there are no holes in the piston. If it fails a leak down test the problem is somewhere in the combustion chamber or possibly a bad lifter or bent pushrod.

 Just a silly question but did anyone shoot any oil in the cylinder to see if you're having a ring sealing issue?

As I've stated unless someone has been in the timing chest and messed with the cam timing or something is broken, there is no reason for the
the timing to change. And it'd have to change a lot to cause such a huge loss of compression.

To answer your question the pulsar (sometimes called the "trigger" or "pick up coil") is not the same as the regulator/rectifier. The pulsar is part of the ignition system. The R/R part of the charging system.

Lastly, I don't mean to be snarky but one of the universal truths where mechanical devices are concerned is that 9 times out of 10 the simplest solution to the problem is usually the correct one. Barring mechanical failure or human intervention, cams don't jump time, however stuck rings, bent valves, bad lifters and piston seizures are common as dirt. Which is why a good mechanic always performs a leak down test when diagnosing an engine with low compression.


CaliforniaGT

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Reply #16 on: February 14, 2024, 11:17:08 pm
No, you're totally right I agree that hes clueless. I was just curious to ask him how he came up with his diagnosis as suggested. Work was declined.

The shop is 1hr away from me and I'm renting a trailer this weekend to go get the bike back.  As soon as I do that side cover is coming off replacement gasket and Oil seals are ordered.

Your help is truly appreciated! Thank you all!




gizzo

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Reply #17 on: February 14, 2024, 11:28:02 pm
I'm sorry, but I'm going to be blunt: the guy's full of shit. He hasn't explained the 20psi compression. Let's be perfectly clear: an ECU fault cannot cause that.

The loss of compression must be fixed first before doing anything else. It is not possible to diagnose any other faults until the basic mechanical functioning is correct.

But now it's your turn to answer a couple of questions. Why are you still engaging with this bloke? And why haven't you taken any of the actions I and others have recommended? You asked for advice and we've given it. It's over to you, now.

Get your spanners out and start work. And if you aren't going to do that, but take it to a mechanic instead, then why ask for advice?
Give him a break. He hasn't even collected his bike yet.... ::)
simon from south Australia
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SteveThackery

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Reply #18 on: February 15, 2024, 08:22:48 am
Give him a break. He hasn't even collected his bike yet.... ::)

I'm sorry, CaliforniaGT, I hadn't noticed the bike was still with the mechanic. My apologies for being so hard on you - it was unkind of me.
Meteor 350

Previous:
'14 B5
'06 ElectraX (Good bike, had no trouble at all)
'02 500ES (Fully "Hitchcocked" - 535, cams, piston, etc - and still a piece of junk)

...plus loads of other bikes: German, British, Japanese, Italian, East European.


SteveThackery

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Reply #19 on: February 15, 2024, 08:55:23 am
Barring mechanical failure or human intervention, cams don't jump time, however stuck rings, bent valves, bad lifters and piston seizures are common as dirt.

Just for the record, I totally agree: cams don't jump time, and I'm sorry if I appeared to be ignoring that point. My suspicion was that someone has been messing about in the engine, and of course it is only that: a suspicion.

Certainly, the fact that the mechanic has quoted an obscene amount of money to replace the electronics, without even mentioning the 20psi compression, proves beyond doubt that he cannot be trusted.

CaliforniaGT: have you done a leakdown test before? Do it somewhere quiet. Put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. When you've connected up an air supply, put your ear right up to the end of the exhaust pipe and - if the exhaust valve is leaking - you will hear the air hissing past the valve.  It's trickier to get your ear close to the intake, but you'll still be able to hear any hissing.

Another trick I've used is to make some soapy solution and, with a large paint brush, paint a film over the two openings - the end of the exhaust pipe, and the inlet opening into the head. If there is leakage a through the valves a bubble will form.

I've changed my mind in the light of the points well made by zimmemr. I agree ou should do a leakdown test and a visual inspection of the timing side. Do both. Also, when you have removed the rocker covers, you can check that the push rods spin freely but have just a tiny amount of vertical play.
 
The best bit is that the whole thing is wonderfully easy to work on. It is a great opportunity to bond with the bike.
Meteor 350

Previous:
'14 B5
'06 ElectraX (Good bike, had no trouble at all)
'02 500ES (Fully "Hitchcocked" - 535, cams, piston, etc - and still a piece of junk)

...plus loads of other bikes: German, British, Japanese, Italian, East European.


zimmemr

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Reply #20 on: February 15, 2024, 01:52:36 pm
Just for the record, I totally agree: cams don't jump time, and I'm sorry if I appeared to be ignoring that point. My suspicion was that someone has been messing about in the engine, and of course it is only that: a suspicion.

Certainly, the fact that the mechanic has quoted an obscene amount of money to replace the electronics, without even mentioning the 20psi compression, proves beyond doubt that he cannot be trusted.

CaliforniaGT: have you done a leakdown test before? Do it somewhere quiet. Put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. When you've connected up an air supply, put your ear right up to the end of the exhaust pipe and - if the exhaust valve is leaking - you will hear the air hissing past the valve.  It's trickier to get your ear close to the intake, but you'll still be able to hear any hissing.

Another trick I've used is to make some soapy solution and, with a large paint brush, paint a film over the two openings - the end of the exhaust pipe, and the inlet opening into the head. If there is leakage a through the valves a bubble will form.

I've changed my mind in the light of the points well made by zimmemr. I agree ou should do a leakdown test and a visual inspection of the timing side. Do both. Also, when you have removed the rocker covers, you can check that the push rods spin freely but have just a tiny amount of vertical play.
 
The best bit is that the whole thing is wonderfully easy to work on. It is a great opportunity to bond with the bike.

Sounds like we're on the same page here Steve. Especially the last bit. ;D
 


CaliforniaGT

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Reply #21 on: June 13, 2024, 02:11:42 am
Dont want to leave you guys hanging,
It just came home today, Did the stator, the valves the seats the springs etc. It thumps now.
Rode it for the first time.

Its got the CEL on and 2014 353GT I guess is something different anyway to just reset it?