[Captain Bob]

I finally got my 56 Indian Tomahawk (aka RE 500 Twin) running.  Way too many kicks.  lol  It ran great for about a minute as I was lightly revving the engine then, I thought I would see if it would idle.  It died.  I figured it would start up right away....  Wrong!  many many more kicks and it fired up but was running very rich and didn't want to clear itself.  It died again.  I have checked main and pilot jets, and they are both clear.  I am guessing I need to check float level next.  I had this same issue with my 55 Indian Woodsman.  Float level was way too high causing the bike to easily flood.

I have two questions.  I only have one lever on the bars (not including clutch and brake) and it's on the right handlebar.  I believe it is for the jet block in the Amal 376 carb. I believe the bike has an auto advance set up in the engine so no retard/advance lever.  I am not familiar with the jet block but believe once you open the lever you are blocking air flow through the venturi essentially, acting as a choke.  Am I correct in that assumption?  although, my 55 Woodsman had a 376 Amal, it did not have the jet block lever.

Does anyone know the correct starting procedure for a Royal Enfield 500 twin?  I would think, tickle the carb, open up the jet block lever, give a little throttle when kicking.  Does that sound about right?

Any and all thoughts are appreciated.

[Captain Bob]

 

[Lorenzo]

"Jet block lever" is officially known as air slide control.
With the air slide OFF the lever is opened - i.e. tight wire.......
Normal starting procedure with most bikes so equipped is :- flood carb. with tickler button i.e. until you can actually see fuel issuing, close air slide - slack wire. Kickstart bike and adjust air slide until engine is warm, when air slide is fully "off" for normal running.
Air slide actually works less as a "choke" (fuel enrichment for starting is provided by tickler button) than a means of keeping the engine running while it's warming up.
Air slide works opposite to the way you thought, in fact....

[ddavidv]

I never use the air slide on my 750 Interceptor for starting. Doesn't seem to do anything but make starting more difficult.

I swear each bike is different in what it wants to start. I honestly am still trying to figure out the secret handshake for mine. It does seem to like a fair amount of fuel. Good, healthy tickle followed by the throttle being opened somewhat. And then any number of kicks from three to three hundred. It usually will start with one or two when warm. Usually. When it doesn't, you're screwed. Why I never ride too far from home for now.

I'd want to make certain I had an auto advance because I didn't think they did those until the 1960s.

[grumbern]

The Difference in starting may also be due to wear of the carbs.
Mine starts best (when cold) by flooding, and kicking with ignition off two or three times, then close the slide, smitch on ignition, give it about 1/8 thottle and kick.
Best wishes,
Andreas

[Captain Bob]

"Jet block lever" is officially known as air slide control.
With the air slide OFF the lever is opened - i.e. tight wire.......
Normal starting procedure with most bikes so equipped is :- flood carb. with tickler button i.e. until you can actually see fuel issuing, close air slide - slack wire. Kickstart bike and adjust air slide until engine is warm, when air slide is fully "off" for normal running.
Air slide actually works less as a "choke" (fuel enrichment for starting is provided by tickler button) than a means of keeping the engine running while it's warming up.
Air slide works opposite to the way you thought, in fact....

Thank you for this info.  I am a bit confused about what you are saying.  So... to understand, after tickling carb.... air slide is closed (slack wire) when kickstarting the bike.  When it starts and runs, you adjust air slide to keep engine running until warm.  Once warm, is the air slide in slack wire or tight wire position for normal running?. 

I need to learn more about this air slide.  lol

[Captain Bob]

The Difference in starting may also be due to wear of the carbs.
Mine starts best (when cold) by flooding, and kicking with ignition off two or three times, then close the slide, smitch on ignition, give it about 1/8 throttle and kick.
Best wishes,
Andreas

I am confused about the air slide being open and closed.  I would think open (or on) is tight wire and closed is slack wire.  Am I right" or, do I have it backwards?  Normal running position would be with air slide closed or open?

[Captain Bob]

I never use the air slide on my 750 Interceptor for starting. Doesn't seem to do anything but make starting more difficult.

I swear each bike is different in what it wants to start. I honestly am still trying to figure out the secret handshake for mine. It does seem to like a fair amount of fuel. Good, healthy tickle followed by the throttle being opened somewhat. And then any number of kicks from three to three hundred. It usually will start with one or two when warm. Usually. When it doesn't, you're screwed. Why I never ride too far from home for now.

I'd want to make certain I had an auto advance because I didn't think they did those until the 1960s.

I agree.  Each bike is different.  Took me a while to get my 55 Woodsman (Bullet) sorted out.  Once I got the procedure down, starting was easy.  I am in that process with this bike.  Previous owner supposedly put 400 miles on the bike before he passed away.  So, I would think it should be running ok without need of adjustment.  It has been sitting for a while however.  I do not have a timing retard lever and do not see any where for a timing cable would be inserted in the bike.  I assumed there is an auto timing unit in this bike.  I do know the 58 500 twin had such a device.  I will look closer however.  I am thinking my starting problems are a result of not understanding the air slide.  I am going to check the float level anyway just to be sure it is ok.  Hopefully, my leg will hold out!   

[Captain Bob]

So... Something interesting just happened.  I went to the garage (around 50 degrees F) and looked to confirm the bike does not have a place for an auto advance cable.  Sure enough, the bike does not.  It has to be an auto advance system.  So, I am looking at the bike and thought, well, why don't I just give it a kick and see what happens.  Without turning the fuel on or tickling the carb. I just gave it a kick with a little bit if throttle.  Nothing.  Kicked it again.  She fired right up.  Sat there running beautifully with me giving it just mild revs on the throttle.  I opened up the air slide a wee bit and the rpm increased.  Excellent!  It then ran out of fuel and quit.  Crazy.  Tomorrow, I will check the float height just to be sure it is ok.  Assuming it is ok, I will try to start the bike again using Lorenzo's description.  I am assuming normal running operation is with the air slide lever in slack wire position (Please correct me if I am wrong).  More to come.

[Lorenzo]

The air slide is a secondary small slide running within the main throttle slide and its purpose is to give slight enrichment ("choke" effect) independent of throttle slide position.
Depending on your location and ambient temperature range, etc. it is quite possible that your bike may start and run OK without air slide use. I read of (Triumph) users in the warmer parts of the US who claim that  they have removed air slides because they serve no purpose ; they wouldn't hold this view if they lived in cooler. damper climes - like that of the UK.
As I stated earlier, the tickler button supplies the fuel enrichment to start the bike from cold, and if the temperature is low enough would need to be used again to allow the engine to continue running. This would be somewhat awkward if you are actually riding the bike by then, hence the use of the air slide.
The air slide works by causing a partial obstruction to air flow within the carb. venturi - air slide ON = air slide lowered / "closed" = slack control wire.
Air slide OFF = air slide raised /"open" = tight wire. This is the position for normal running with a heated engine.
It can be a complaint that the raised air slide doesn't stay raised if there is insufficient friction within the handlebar control, tending to work its way closed with vibration ; this can be prevented by adjusting the screw in the centre of the control.
If you are able to get a look inside the bellmouth/air inlet of the carb. while operating the throttle and air controls all will be revealed and what I am saying here will become totally obvious.....   
Incidentally. I think I would find it a lot easier to start your bike than I am finding posting to this website. grrrrrrrr

[Captain Bob]

The air slide is a secondary small slide running within the main throttle slide and its purpose is to give slight enrichment ("choke" effect) independent of throttle slide position.
Depending on your location and ambient temperature range, etc. it is quite possible that your bike may start and run OK without air slide use. I read of (Triumph) users in the warmer parts of the US who claim that  they have removed air slides because they serve no purpose ; they wouldn't hold this view if they lived in cooler. damper climes - like that of the UK.
As I stated earlier, the tickler button supplies the fuel enrichment to start the bike from cold, and if the temperature is low enough would need to be used again to allow the engine to continue running. This would be somewhat awkward if you are actually riding the bike by then, hence the use of the air slide.
The air slide works by causing a partial obstruction to air flow within the carb. venturi - air slide ON = air slide lowered / "closed" = slack control wire.
Air slide OFF = air slide raised /"open" = tight wire. This is the position for normal running with a heated engine.
It can be a complaint that the raised air slide doesn't stay raised if there is insufficient friction within the handlebar control, tending to work its way closed with vibration ; this can be prevented by adjusting the screw in the centre of the control.
If you are able to get a look inside the bellmouth/air inlet of the carb. while operating the throttle and air controls all will be revealed and what I am saying here will become totally obvious.....   
Incidentally. I think I would find it a lot easier to start your bike than I am finding posting to this website. grrrrrrrr

Thanks Lorenzo for that very good explanation.  I had it backwards.  I will follow your instructions tomorrow when I try starting the bike again and see what happens.  Hopefully, I will get this right this time.

[Adrian II]

Late 50's RE twins and their Indian-badged export versions commonly had the Lucas SR2 magneto fitted.



No manual advance, there's an auto-advance/retard unit built into the drive sprocket with these. (the brass terminal is for a wire to a kill switch). If you have coil ignition and a distributor that will also have an auto-advance.

A.

[Captain Bob]

Adrian II, as usual, you are a fountain of knowledge.  That is exactly the magneto I have on my bike.  Thanks so much for clarifying.

[Captain Bob]

Quick update.....  I checked the float height and found it to be in an acceptable range.  I was able to get the bike started a little easier today.  Only 20 kicks instead of 200.  lol  I learned that I was flooding the engine.  I still have not gotten the procedure down pat yet, but now have a better understanding of the air slide and what it may take to get this old girl easily fired up. I will keep trying different starting procedures until I hit it right.  I am glad to know the issue is nothing more than the starting procedure.  When running, she purrs like a kitten.  Hopefully, I will be able to take it for a short ride before the snow sets in.  Thanks again to all for your comments, they were very helpful!

[Citrus]

fyi - i do not use the choke on either my single or twin Enfields - winter or summer.