[Paul W]

It never ceases to surprise how many variations there are with these older bikes from that era. My 2004 Indian home market iron Bullet Electra came with “TCI” ignition (i.e. no distributor or points) but is kickstart only. It also came with the right side shift, 4 speed gearbox. I found that was its Achilles heel; as a 350 it didn’t cope well with  the relatively large gap between 3rd and 4th. It was very frustrating to ride with a passenger or on long hills. I was offered a 5 speed box at a very low price. I converted it to right side shift fitted it and it transformed the bike.

[ddavidv]

Welcome to the...what did Bilgemeister call it? "Horde of the Archaic". LOL
I also bought mine on a whim. Of course, half of my engine came in a box which added to the fun.
These bikes are super simple to work on with Snidal's manual. My only addition to the fine prior posts is not to use the torque specs in the manual. Go just a bit shy of their recommendations. The Indian made metal and castings aren't as sturdy as the English stuff and it is easy to strip threads on these if one is not careful.

I went with the shorter salami shaped muffler and it sounds good. It is louder, but not as obnoxious as the Emgo cocktail shaker model I tried previously. I got mine from the 'seconds' bin listing at Hitchcocks. Could find absolutely nothing wrong with it. Always check there before placing an order as there are some bargains to be had.

The rubber parts and cables are two things they can't seem to make in India so always opt for the British made versions.

[Bilgemaster]

Those are wise words about taking it super easy with that torque and not heave-hoing those fasteners from the guy who quite literally wrote the book on resurrecting these oil lamps (see: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0832BB5T6).

I am now getting the impression that this may not be our newly arrived original poster's first rodeo wrenching on bikes. However, at the risk of offering patronizing advice to one with possibly more grease under their fingernails than me, the Royal Enfield Bullet's particular propensity compared to other makes for iffy fasteners and soft gooey threads still leads me to this special recommendation for fettling the breed: "Go stubby, young man!"

This earlier thread at https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=28299 describes a couple of handy tools that will greatly reduce the risk of overtightening those nougaty fasteners. In particular the Harbor Freight SAE & Metric Stubby Combo Wrench set for under $10 shown there has been one of my "top of the tool box" tools. It'll be much harder to get into trouble with those. While you're at Harbor Freight anyhow, you might also grab one of their ¼" drive torque wrenches for about $10, since their (and other) ⅜" drive ones often don't creep down into those single-digit foot-pound settings favored by some of our Bullets' nuts and bolts. And of course, you'd do well to stock up on a couple-few little bottles of their No. 42 Medium Threadlocker, their bargain Loctite knockoff. It works just fine.

More generally, there is also this older ongoing thread about other "budget tools" I've tried and liked: https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=25828.0;all

[Mid Mod]

Can someone post a link to the starter delete kit? I found it once but now I can’t seem to locate it.

[Bilgemaster]

Can someone post a link to the starter delete kit? I found it once but now I can’t seem to locate it.

Are you referring to the "Starter Motor Blank" to fill the hole when the starter motor is removed? If so, that's found at: https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/crankshaft-engine/21512 and just £10.80.

It's a very nicely made little part from billet alumin(i)um that's a press fit. Just whack it into the hole with a rubber mallet or piece of wood and it stays put.

[Mid Mod]

No I’m looking for the primary to replace the starter housing.

[AzCal Retred]

Unfortunately it's not exactly a bolt on job. "Nonfiction" just did this same operation to his I.B. Bullet in the "Smooth Left Side" thread in this "I.B. Bullet column. The Electric Start variant engine cases have the primary inner case attaching bolts "rotated" in a different orientation than the Kick Start primary inner case. You must redrill the new Kick Start primary inner case to match the engine layout. The "plug" gets you on the road much faster, and you can then begin to get the machine sorted out. I know money's probably not an issue, but seriously I would get the old girl up and running, determine clutch condition & primary gearing suitability for your purposes, THEN if you want to still swap over you can do the whole shebang at once. There are plenty of seals & gaskets to replace at the same time. No reason to duplicate work unnecessarily, and a couple special tools are required. Plenty of documentation of pulling the primary on this forum, and the Snidal manual will get you through as well..

Here are the 2002 H's Kickstart parts:
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/18416?qty=1&continue_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com%2Fpartsbook-pages%2F1744
PART No. 111889 ; £82.50 ; CHAINCASE, INNER HALF KS

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/2095?qty=1&continue_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com%2Fpartsbook-pages%2F1741
PART No. 143907 ; £73.50 ; CHAINCASE, OUTER (Imperial threads fitted up to March 2002) 

And here is the Electric Start case - the attachment bolt holes to the engine are visibly rotated relative to the plain KS version.
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/10477?qty=1&continue_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com%2Fpartsbook-pages%2F1926
PART No. 560127 ;£112.50 ;
CHAINCASE INNER, E/START (No provision for gear change shaft)

[Bilgemaster]

I'd never heard about a "kit" as such, though one may well exist. I never really cared to look for one, since I'm OK with my now empty starter gearing housing just perched up there kind of rakishly. In fact, I think it gives a nice counterpoint visually to the opposite side's upwards-thrusting timing case like some tandem Romulan Marital Aid. I seem to recall reading something somewhere about some Indian home market Thunderbird (?) primary case or cases having been used by someone as a replacement, maybe with some modifications, but don't really remember any details. However, I am fairly sure you will find parts of these two old threads and some of their linked info very useful:

• https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=23160.0;all   
• https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,19299.30.html

[Adrian II]

The Hitchcocks' kit you are looking for is either part # 90152 or 90153 depending on left or right footed of the gear shift. Remember H's aren't always clued-up for some of the US only models, so a left-foot shift 4 speed gearbox might need a little more research before you place an order. Search under those part numbers on their main web site instead of looking at the accessory catalog pages.

Rather than drilling holes in the replacement primary inner chaincase as AzCal states, the idea is to drill and tap the respective left side crankcase mounting position to suit the replacement inner, the kit includes new studs, nuts and an 8mm tap, for which you will need a 6.8mm drill bit. The good news, assuming you can hold a drill and a tap wrench straight, is that you can do this job with the engine still in the frame, I just happened to be working on the crankcases for a different reason.

A.

[Mid Mod]

I guess I am trying to move too fast with this bike.
The sprag needs to come out so it would be nice to replace the primary. Also I figured if I was making an order I should get everything at once to save shipping but these are all big pieces so that might not have worked anyway.

So far all I’ve done is clean the carb in the sonic cleaner. I looked in the tank and the liner is sliding off the insides. Acetone is supposed to take it off so that will be my first project. The sprag will have to wait until it’s a little warmer out but that means I can’t start it right now. I like it to be above freezing in the shop but it looks like we are getting single digit weather soon. 

[AzCal Retred]

Thanks Adrian II for that clarification! I should have reviewed the process more. - ACR -

[Mid Mod]

I see why I wasn’t getting a hit on my Hitchcock’s search. I was putting “starter” in the search box but they use “start”.

I need the left to right shift conversion and the right shift kick start only primary number 90153. I have do both at the same time to make it work.

I just love the support on this page and the aftermarket parts available.

I haven’t spilled the beans yet but I bought this bike specifically to make a little trip with my friends this summer. I need to whip it into shape and put some miles on it before June. Plenty of time right?

[Bilgemaster]

Ummmmm...What kind of bikes do your friends have? An Iron Barrel Bullet isn't exactly a "Leader of the Pack", or even an "At Least Keeping the Pack in Sight" kind of ride. If your buddies ride most anything other than Bullets, you, thumping along ideally in the 50s, are going to be a serious anchor and hindrance. And if you do try to "keep up" instead of seeking out your Bullet's own sympathetic pace, you'll likely just thrash the thing to death. It's a "horses for courses" kind of situation. You should definitely sort out and keep that Bullet. With all its challenges and concessions to modernity I adore mine. But I know it well for what it is. If your fellow riders are all mounted on modern bikes happy to cruise in the 70s or 80s all day long, then that Bullet is not the droid you are looking for.

You're up there in Minnesota right? Well, while it may be debatable whether that's a "good" thing as we slog through the end of January, at least you DO have that "seasonality" thing working for you in spades when it comes to the values of "summery" stuff like motorcycles, boats, scuba gear or thong wear. A bike worth or even asking for a couple-few grand in July has about the same demand as a frozen bucket of fish guts in February. I'd almost be astonished if this '99 Suzuki GZ250 micro-cruiser single in Rochester with just 6,000 miles on it asking $1,000 wasn't being loaded into your van or pickup roughly half a nanosecond after you'd waved five C notes at the owner. And even that little squirt would happily cruise in the 60s all day long without flying to bits: https://rmn.craigslist.org/mcy/d/rochester-1999-suzuki-gz250/7270914602.html. I'll bet there are tons of old "metric cruiser" to be had up there in the glaciers for chump change right now.

[Mid Mod]

Well..... So far there’s a 1937 Norton, a 1969 Triumph 650 and a 1972 Honda CL450. It looks like I’ll be fighting for last place with a real old timer.

The kicker is that we’re going over the Beartooth Highway which is the highest highway in North America. It goes above the tree line. Speed isn’t necessary but brakes are kind of important.

[Bilgemaster]

Actually...Forget I said anything. Sure, the Triumph and elderly Honda may naturally press ahead slightly, but you and the prewar Norton should be a fine match. What model of Norton is it, I wonder? Also, your Enfield has superb engine braking. I had zero issues with anything like brake fade in the Appalachians. Of course, I have the 5-speed, with basically that extra gear between 3rd and top. A four speed with that BIG stretch between 3rd and 4th may be more of a wind-up challenge, especially getting up steeper grades.