Author Topic: Lets talk tire size theory  (Read 1968 times)

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JessHerbst

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on: August 17, 2022, 02:59:33 am
 I’m asking because, as is often the case, I don’t know enough about the subject. So I ask you guys.
 If I understand correctly, a 17” front wheel will produce a quicker steering bike than one equipped with an 18”. This is a pretty prominent message in every article I’ve seen about the Hunter 350, and jives with what I remember from sport bikes back on the 1980s & 90s when I used to ride.
 The stock front tire on the Royal Enfield 650s is 100/90-18, many people here replace with a 110/80-18, a wider tire with about the same sidewall height. I understand you are looking for a bigger footprint.
 But, and here is my question, why not go for a 100/80-18. I think this would yield a width the about the same as stock, but a shorter sidewall, thus a smaller overall tire. Not a 17” , but more in that direction than the 110/80.
 Where am I going wrong (or right) with this thought?
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gizzo

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Reply #1 on: August 17, 2022, 03:09:58 am
The only reasons I can see for going from 18 to 17 on this bike are : to fit easily available tubeless wheel; for looks ; to have a wider range of high performance tyres.

Srsly an average rider will be just as competent on either size wheel. Have a look at sportsman class supermoto racing. Those guys are running 21" front and 18/19" rear and they wail on them. It's true, size doesn't matter, it's how you use it.

But you're probably right that the lower profile 18 might give the same effect as a 17. That's the word from the Person on the Street. Racers may disagree.
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Alan F.

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Reply #2 on: August 17, 2022, 03:30:40 am
In theory I'd agree, but it'll be hard to find a front tire made In both sizes.
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Hoiho

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Reply #3 on: August 17, 2022, 03:37:21 am
When you're lacking; 10mm additional width makes all the difference (at least that's what I'm told).


Starpeve

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Reply #4 on: August 17, 2022, 04:35:45 am
When you're lacking; 10mm additional width makes all the difference (at least that's what I'm told).
Yeah, I’m led to believe that an increase in circumference is to be desired.
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FormerStar

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Reply #5 on: August 17, 2022, 05:06:35 am
It could be that a taller sidewall soaks up bumps better. More suited to the home market.
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GlennF

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Reply #6 on: August 17, 2022, 05:21:44 am
The advantages of lower profile are well known. Some of the disadvantages of going with too low a profile include:

● Stiff or rough ride (especially on rural roads and off road) as higher profile tyres absorb the initial shock better

● High susceptibility to tyre and rim damage since these tyres have a smaller air cushion to absorb harsh impacts from potholes

● Wheels themselves are also more susceptible to damage on very rough roads if low profile tyres are fitted.

● you need to keep a close eye on tyre pressure, no driving around at 8 psi like you can with some high profile

● Fuel economy can be compromised, though this relates more to width

● low profile tyres can be more expensive



ALSO - in terms of width you need to stay in reasonable proportion to the rim used.  An overly wide tire on a small rim will handle worse not better. If you to go more than a size or so wider you really should change out the rims.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2022, 05:28:46 am by GlennF »


whippers

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Reply #7 on: August 17, 2022, 07:23:30 am
I’m asking because, as is often the case, I don’t know enough about the subject. So I ask you guys.
 If I understand correctly, a 17” front wheel will produce a quicker steering bike than one equipped with an 18”. This is a pretty prominent message in every article I’ve seen about the Hunter 350, and jives with what I remember from sport bikes back on the 1980s & 90s when I used to ride.
 The stock front tire on the Royal Enfield 650s is 100/90-18, many people here replace with a 110/80-18, a wider tire with about the same sidewall height. I understand you are looking for a bigger footprint.
 But, and here is my question, why not go for a 100/80-18. I think this would yield a width the about the same as stock, but a shorter sidewall, thus a smaller overall tire. Not a 17” , but more in that direction than the 110/80.
 Where am I going wrong (or right) with this thought?

This is a very complicated area but here are a few starting points.

The diameter of the front wheel effects gyroscopic stability so 21" will resist turning more than a 19" and so on as you go down in size.  In the 1980s for awhile it was fashionable to have 16" front wheels but we have largely settled on 17" for sporting motorcycles (and even 16.5" until comparatively recently for MotoGP motorcycles). The diameter of the wheel isn't the only thing that matters.  Its mass does too so light forged aluminium or carbon wheels are better than heavier ones. The distribution of mass matters too so you want as little mass as possible at the rim compared to closer to the hub. Getting stuff you bolt to the wheels like brakes lighter also helps.  So carbon discs both give better braking performance but also better acceleration and turning.

Lightening anything that spins is usually a good idea if you want to improve performance including a crankshaft to get it to pick up revs faster.  If you lighten the wheels on your Enfield it will accelerate faster because there is less energy needed to get the wheels to spin. It even matters where the weight is so two wheels that have the same diameter and the same mass will be different if one has more of the weight concentrated in the rim compared to the other.

Okay so lighter, smaller diameter front wheels with their mass concentrated closest to the hub accelerate faster and also are easier to deflect because their moment of inertia is less. You can kind of think of it as a lower moment of inertia is like having less mass so its easier to move or deflect (a gross simplification).

Gyroscopic precession is what happens when you apply a lateral force to the axis of a spinning gyroscope (ie your front wheel). It deflects in the opposite direction.  This is what it means to push the handlebars on the left hand side (ie deflect the handlebars to the right and the result is the bike leans to the left. This is what it means to counter steer.

However there is a tyre on the rim too and this has diameter and mass.  Wider tyres are heavier than skinnier tyres and higher profile tyres both increase the overall diameter of the wheel/tyre and the proportion of weight that is furtherest from the hub. 

So a wider and/or taller front tyre will slow down the steering.

The profile or shape of the tyre is important too.  Very sporty tyres will be almost triangular for 2 reasons.  One is to help the bike fall over quickly into a turn and the other is to maximise the contact patch when leaned over.  All other things being equal more contact patch means more grip and more ultimate speed that can be carried before grip is exhausted.

Independent of the front wheel size is the overall chassis geometry.  A steeper rake will turn faster (our Enfields have a pretty sporty 24 degree rake for a retro bike).  A shorter wheelbase will turn faster and require less lean angle to hold a a given line than a bike with a longer wheelbase. However with a shorter wheelbase and a steeper rake (and consequent shorter trail) comes less inherent stability.  It's all a trade off.

In terms of your question about why not just run a 100/80, the answer is probably because it would change the chassis geometry and reduce ground clearance which is the same thing as what would happen putting on a 17" rim with no other changes.  If you think about it the setup on the stock Enfield is kind of giving you an almost 17" front feeling because the rake is so steep. Most people put on wider tyres because of the aesthetics, some because they have concerns when wearing the tyres right to the edge. I have ground the centre stand and the foot peg (with the feelers removed) on the stock tyres so I don't think there is much concern about grip (more on ground clearance) but a little more is probably good insurance if you like to hustle.
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CPJS

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Reply #8 on: August 17, 2022, 07:44:45 am
Jess, you have a mean streak.
You've thrown another juicy bone out there for the pack to  fight over.

Tyres are are down  the rabbit hole next to the suspension rabbit hole.
The deeper you go down the holes you find that they start to join together.

When Honda brought out the Fireblade it had 16" front wheel with a tall profile tyre so the overall dimensions more like a 17".
The wheel size was towards the end of a phase of trying to make heavy sports bikes steer more quickly. The Fireblade wasn't heavy so didn't need any extra help but fashion/marketing dictated otherwise.
Honda knew better.

Look to your cycling experience to show you how wheel and tyre sizes affect performance.
I have an old Scott C1 running 25mm tyres.  I also have a very old Specalized Rock Hopper  running 26" wheels with 1 3/4" road tyres.
If I say to you which one steers the best?  Your answer.....it depends on what you want.
Motorcycles are just the same.

It's a rabbit hole that's best left to the terriers.


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RecoilRob

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Reply #9 on: August 17, 2022, 09:05:26 am
You can also use the front tire choice to correct the speedometer if it's not reading accurately.


NVDucati

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Reply #10 on: August 17, 2022, 12:52:54 pm
This is a very complicated area but here are a few starting points
Well said, well written and worth reading twice.
Thanks for taking the time to do it.
When Honda brought out the Fireblade it had 16" front wheel with a tall profile tyre so the overall dimensions more like a 17".... If I say to you which one steers the best?  Your answer.....it depends on what you want.
Likewise, CPJS points out the pinnacle of a point in time for motorcycle design.
I still have my Fireblade which I snuck in from Florida a month before the California Honda dealers got them.
Riding that bike back to back with my Honda ST1300 might be the maximum contrast for the question you pose, what do you want...
_ But I still struggle to understand how "quick steering is better" has become a mantra in today's market place.
Sure, if you are accelerating through the CockScrew at Laguna Seca it is not only better, it is mandatory. However, if you are a mortal, at some point fairly early on, that quick steering becomes twitchy and less steady. At the other end of the spectrum (ST1300) you can still sport around on the back roads but your "turn-in" technique is more like bashing in a bathroom door with your shoulder at every corner. ;)
_ So sure, fine tune your bike to your riding style with some mild tire swaps. But it is not an imperative.
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NJ Mike

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Reply #11 on: August 17, 2022, 04:35:14 pm
Honestly, the RE is about as nice as it gets for a light steering bike with great stability.

It works as well as my old 1st generation SV650 which is a very good example of a bike that handles extremely well, and is also stable. It's lighter steering than my short wheelbase Guzzi V11 Sport, and it has much less weight. It would embarrass my BMW K75 which had a 60 inch wheelbase.

Wrenchjockie's Thruxton has a similar wheelbase as the RE, but with his wide 17 inch radials, it steers much slower and requires more effort to initiate a turn. When we swapped bikes he thought my steering head bearings were loose, but they're not. It's just a very light steering bike.

I find it a joy to ride on mountain roads, you just have to think your way into the corner. No twitchiness, yet still stable at speed.

I'm not a racer, and I'm not on a track, so I'm not scraping pegs or dragging my knee. So far, I've yet to run out of contact patch, and until I can exceed what I have, never, I'll just stick with what I know works. The engineers at Harris Performance knew what they were doing, and I'm pretty sure I don't know better than they do.
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iblastoff

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Reply #12 on: August 17, 2022, 05:39:03 pm
Honestly, the RE is about as nice as it gets for a light steering bike with great stability.

It works as well as my old 1st generation SV650 which is a very good example of a bike that handles extremely well, and is also stable. It's lighter steering than my short wheelbase Guzzi V11 Sport, and it has much less weight. It would embarrass my BMW K75 which had a 60 inch wheelbase.

Wrenchjockie's Thruxton has a similar wheelbase as the RE, but with his wide 17 inch radials, it steers much slower and requires more effort to initiate a turn. When we swapped bikes he thought my steering head bearings were loose, but they're not. It's just a very light steering bike.

I find it a joy to ride on mountain roads, you just have to think your way into the corner. No twitchiness, yet still stable at speed.

I'm not a racer, and I'm not on a track, so I'm not scraping pegs or dragging my knee. So far, I've yet to run out of contact patch, and until I can exceed what I have, never, I'll just stick with what I know works. The engineers at Harris Performance knew what they were doing, and I'm pretty sure I don't know better than they do.

i dont find this at all tbh. my gt650 is mostly stock (still ceat tires etc) and i find it sluggish in turning *in comparison* to my ducati scrambler.

i mean, i dont 'need' it to turn any 'faster', as its fine for just normal riding. but its definitely not light steering to me. i'm guessing its mostly the weight difference (the gt650 feels waaay heavier).


NJ Mike

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Reply #13 on: August 17, 2022, 05:59:39 pm
i dont find this at all tbh. my gt650 is mostly stock (still ceat tires etc) and i find it sluggish in turning *in comparison* to my ducati scrambler.

i mean, i dont 'need' it to turn any 'faster', as its fine for just normal riding. but its definitely not light steering to me. i'm guessing its mostly the weight difference (the gt650 feels waaay heavier).

Well, it depends on what you know. Based on what I know, I have my assessment. I've not ridden a Ducati Scrambler, so I don't know what you know.
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JessHerbst

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Reply #14 on: August 17, 2022, 11:07:52 pm
This is a very complicated area but here are a few starting points.

The diameter of the front wheel effects gyroscopic stability so 21" will resist turning more than a 19" and so on as you go down in size.  In the 1980s for awhile it was fashionable to have 16" front wheels but we have largely settled on 17" for sporting motorcycles (and even 16.5" until comparatively recently for MotoGP motorcycles). The diameter of the wheel isn't the only thing that matters.  Its mass does too so light forged aluminium or carbon wheels are better than heavier ones. The distribution of mass matters too so you want as little mass as possible at the rim compared to closer to the hub. Getting stuff you bolt to the wheels like brakes lighter also helps.  So carbon discs both give better braking performance but also better acceleration and turning.

Lightening anything that spins is usually a good idea if you want to improve performance including a crankshaft to get it to pick up revs faster.  If you lighten the wheels on your Enfield it will accelerate faster because there is less energy needed to get the wheels to spin. It even matters where the weight is so two wheels that have the same diameter and the same mass will be different if one has more of the weight concentrated in the rim compared to the other.

Okay so lighter, smaller diameter front wheels with their mass concentrated closest to the hub accelerate faster and also are easier to deflect because their moment of inertia is less. You can kind of think of it as a lower moment of inertia is like having less mass so its easier to move or deflect (a gross simplification).

Gyroscopic precession is what happens when you apply a lateral force to the axis of a spinning gyroscope (ie your front wheel). It deflects in the opposite direction.  This is what it means to push the handlebars on the left hand side (ie deflect the handlebars to the right and the result is the bike leans to the left. This is what it means to counter steer.

However there is a tyre on the rim too and this has diameter and mass.  Wider tyres are heavier than skinnier tyres and higher profile tyres both increase the overall diameter of the wheel/tyre and the proportion of weight that is furtherest from the hub. 

So a wider and/or taller front tyre will slow down the steering.

The profile or shape of the tyre is important too.  Very sporty tyres will be almost triangular for 2 reasons.  One is to help the bike fall over quickly into a turn and the other is to maximise the contact patch when leaned over.  All other things being equal more contact patch means more grip and more ultimate speed that can be carried before grip is exhausted.

Independent of the front wheel size is the overall chassis geometry.  A steeper rake will turn faster (our Enfields have a pretty sporty 24 degree rake for a retro bike).  A shorter wheelbase will turn faster and require less lean angle to hold a a given line than a bike with a longer wheelbase. However with a shorter wheelbase and a steeper rake (and consequent shorter trail) comes less inherent stability.  It's all a trade off.

In terms of your question about why not just run a 100/80, the answer is probably because it would change the chassis geometry and reduce ground clearance which is the same thing as what would happen putting on a 17" rim with no other changes.  If you think about it the setup on the stock Enfield is kind of giving you an almost 17" front feeling because the rake is so steep. Most people put on wider tyres because of the aesthetics, some because they have concerns when wearing the tyres right to the edge. I have ground the centre stand and the foot peg (with the feelers removed) on the stock tyres so I don't think there is much concern about grip (more on ground clearance) but a little more is probably good insurance if you like to hustle.

This is excellent information and exactly what I was looking for.

Jess, you have a mean streak.
You've thrown another juicy bone out there for the pack to  fight over.

Tyres are are down  the rabbit hole next to the suspension rabbit hole.
The deeper you go down the holes you find that they start to join together.

When Honda brought out the Fireblade it had 16" front wheel with a tall profile tyre so the overall dimensions more like a 17".
The wheel size was towards the end of a phase of trying to make heavy sports bikes steer more quickly. The Fireblade wasn't heavy so didn't need any extra help but fashion/marketing dictated otherwise.
Honda knew better.

Look to your cycling experience to show you how wheel and tyre sizes affect performance.
I have an old Scott C1 running 25mm tyres.  I also have a very old Specalized Rock Hopper  running 26" wheels with 1 3/4" road tyres.
If I say to you which one steers the best?  Your answer.....it depends on what you want.
Motorcycles are just the same.

It's a rabbit hole that's best left to the terriers.



the steering rake on bicycles is considerably steeper than motorcycles, so they all turn very quickly(I’m sure there are exceptions).
 Road bikes have been using 700c (app 29”) for a long time. I run 1¼” width tires on my road bike.
 Mountain bikes have migrated to mostly 29” wheels because they roll over bad terrain much easier than their 26” predecessors.
 The wheel size makes little difference due to very steep steering angles.
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