Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: Subbu-500 on January 02, 2018, 12:54:20 pm
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All posts related to this topic are over two years old, hence starting a new one.
I am currently running an after market 35W LED bulb on my 2014 B5 (carb) as i was not very happy with the stock 55/60 W Halogen bulb especially on highways during night time riding. The LED is quite a bit brighter compared to the stock but is terribly out of focus and the throw is not good either. Hence i was contemplating getting an after market LED headlight unit like 7" ones used on Jeeps etc,. However, these headlights are rated at 75/100W (low/high) which is way over the stock setup. So my question is, will this cause severe harm to the battery which is 12V 14ah?
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Here's what I'm running now, although not today. It was 11 degrees this morning.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-led-bulbs/motorcycle-led-headlight-conversion-kit-h4-led-headlight-bulb-conversion-kit-with-compact-heat-sink/3930/8566/
For me it was plug and play, a straight replacement for the regular H4, 60/55w. At idle and start up my ammeter light would come on. Now, it's a thing of the past. I'm happy with the brightness of the light(s). The high beam really lights the night.
Cheers,
Bill
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I've been thinking about an h4 led bulb, but doubt that one with the large heat sink would fit in the 7" headlight shell on my gt. Its difficult enough getting it closed with a standard h4 and connector.
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A lot of the LED lights show their light power by stating the equivalent incandescent light output.
That is, the candlepower of a "60 watt" LED is as bright as a 60 watt incandescent bulb.
The real amount of power a LED uses to produce this is a lot less. I guess this "equivalent light output" method is done so people can visualize how bright the LED is going to be.
For instance the superbright LED Guaire linked to says it puts out 1300 lumens of light.
That's a little more than a old fashioned 75-80 watt light bulb would give.
Looking a bit further into the specifications for that LED bulb it says it uses 18.6 watts worth of electrical power so, it is going to put about 19 watts of load on your motorcycles electrical system.
Put another way, using that LED light is like screwing in a 19 watt bulb and getting "80 watts" of light out of it.
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Hi All,
Thank you for the valuable suggestions. I learnt that all these LED Projector Headlights available in India are made in China and i am not really comfortable with that as they are most probably fake :o..So i am looking at getting them from Amazon.com. I have attached a pic of the one i liked and would greatly appreciate if i can know:
a) Is this a direct fit on the RE B5 2014 (India)?
b) It is rated at 60 w for High Beam. So can i assume it will not strain the battery?
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I've been thinking about an h4 led bulb, but doubt that one with the large heat sink would fit in the 7" headlight shell on my gt. Its difficult enough getting it closed with a standard h4 and connector.
I got some extra room in my 7” nacelle because I had secretly removed the bus adapter that turns on the light whenever the key is turned on.....for the US market. Like the rest of the Royal Enfield world I can turn the light on and off with the handlebar switch.
I have seen bulbs with bigger heat sinks. The smaller size of the super bright was part of my choosing it.
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Hi All,
Thank you for the valuable suggestions. I learnt that all these LED Projector Headlights available in India are made in China and i am not really comfortable with that as they are most probably fake :o..So i am looking at getting them from Amazon.com. I have attached a pic of the one i liked and would greatly appreciate if i can know:
a) Is this a direct fit on the RE B5 2014 (India)?
b) It is rated at 60 w for High Beam. So can i assume it will not strain the battery?
I'll bet you it's made in China.
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Only the very best products are made in China, I know because China is written on almost all the premium products I own.
Grant
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Looks like a nice headlight but too modern looking for a RE......unlikely that it is not made in China :)
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Here's what I'm running now, although not today. It was 11 degrees this morning.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-led-bulbs/motorcycle-led-headlight-conversion-kit-h4-led-headlight-bulb-conversion-kit-with-compact-heat-sink/3930/8566/
For me it was plug and play, a straight replacement for the regular H4, 60/55w. At idle and start up my ammeter light would come on. Now, it's a thing of the past. I'm happy with the brightness of the light(s). The high beam really lights the night.
Cheers,
Bill
I may be going to this light as well. I got their LED's in the mail today to replace my tail/stop light and pilot lights with. I binned the DRL pigtail long ago. Was good riding today in sunny, 7C weather. :D
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[Looks like a nice headlight but too modern looking for a RE......unlikely that it is not made in China :)/quote]
[Only the very best products are made in China, I know because China is written on almost all the premium products I own./quote]
Yeah...i know they make good stuff too but most of what is imported into India are not original. Anyway, i have dropped the idea of getting the headlight from Amazon.com(US) as the landing cost comes close to 3 times the product value :o... i guess i will just go get the ones available here over this weekend and will report with the initial impressions/review
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I ordered these H4 LEDs:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X322873788277.TRS0&_nkw=322873788277&_sacat=0 (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X322873788277.TRS0&_nkw=322873788277&_sacat=0), and
This open beam H4 7" Lamp:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-7-H6024-Open-Beam-Headlight-with-bulb-H4-Replaces-sealed-Beam-6012-14-15-17/331429888210?hash=item4d2ac2c0d2:g:feQAAOSw8d9Uwpv0&vxp=mtr (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-7-H6024-Open-Beam-Headlight-with-bulb-H4-Replaces-sealed-Beam-6012-14-15-17/331429888210?hash=item4d2ac2c0d2:g:feQAAOSw8d9Uwpv0&vxp=mtr).
The lamp comes with an H4 halogen bulb. I replaced the halogen bulb with the LED unit, and it works very well. Fit is good, too. Seems just as bright, but will use a LOT less power.
I have no clue how long the H4 LED bulb will work, due to the almost total lack of a heat sink. The price wast so cheap I ordered 4 each so I have spares for the bike and the tub.
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I ordered these H4 LEDs:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X322873788277.TRS0&_nkw=322873788277&_sacat=0 (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X322873788277.TRS0&_nkw=322873788277&_sacat=0), and
This open beam H4 7" Lamp:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-7-H6024-Open-Beam-Headlight-with-bulb-H4-Replaces-sealed-Beam-6012-14-15-17/331429888210?hash=item4d2ac2c0d2:g:feQAAOSw8d9Uwpv0&vxp=mtr (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-7-H6024-Open-Beam-Headlight-with-bulb-H4-Replaces-sealed-Beam-6012-14-15-17/331429888210?hash=item4d2ac2c0d2:g:feQAAOSw8d9Uwpv0&vxp=mtr).
The lamp comes with an H4 halogen bulb. I replaced the halogen bulb with the LED unit, and it works very well. Fit is good, too. Seems just as bright, but will use a LOT less power.
I have no clue how long the H4 LED bulb will work, due to the almost total lack of a heat sink. The price wast so cheap I ordered 4 each so I have spares for the bike and the tub.
Good grief, $2.89?!! And free shipping the USA!
Those bulbs have to be the way to go as a carry on as a back up bulb. They won’t break as easily as a glass bulb loose in a saddle bag or some other spot. They would definitely at least get you home. I’ll them as spares on my VF500F, my R80RT and the seat cowl on my GT.
Good find.
I bought to of the same bulb from a seller out of New York. I’ll get them much sooner than if I would order from China.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173040540668
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Surprisingly, I received both orders within a couple of weeks. So now I have an additional unsealed headlamp, the remaining three LEDs, and the original two halogen lamps. More spares than I'll need for awhile, I think. ;D
On a side note, when using E-Bay, I've noted that even though the seller is listed as located in one's country it doesn't necessarily mean that the ordered item comes directly from the seller. Often the seller is simply an order taker located in (insert country) who passes on the order to the item's original seller or manufacturer.
I've received more than one item that way. ::)
As for the quality of the unsealed headlights, they do seem to be made of glass and at least on the first unit the focus is good. From India, as I recall.
The LEDs came from China.
A previous order for a 4.25 inch LED headlight assembly for my Cozy tub resulted in a broken LED assembly (same unit as in my last post) on arrival, but the vendor made it good immediately after I sent pics.
The actual LED unit had not been securely glued to its base, thus shipping knocked it loose, breaking the positive lead.
The newer ones I ordered I have applied a drop of Super Glue at 4 places equidistant around the bases. That should solve any future breakage issues. :P
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Autopal is a very old Indian company and generally makes good stuff...no surprise that your 7” light is good.
The 2.89 H4s are an amazingly good price. Let us know how they do....might have to try some myself :)
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Look no further. These Cyron intergrated LED assemblies are the real deal. Full bulb replacement with plenty of heat sinks and built in load equalizer. IIRC The 7" bulb produces 4800 lumens and the 5 3/4" produces 4200 lumens. We have installed both sizes on a few different Harleys and they are amazingly bright with a very good projection. Each has multiple LEDs at different angles that eliminates dark spots in the projection. Thinking of installing one on the Trailblazer. I'm not a distributer, so not trying to sell anyone anything. Just a great product I believe in. Any motorcycle shop that orders from Tucker Rocky can get one for you.
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Autopal is a very old Indian company and generally makes good stuff...no surprise that your 7” light is good.
The 2.89 H4s are an amazingly good price. Let us know how they do....might have to try some myself (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/data:image/png;base64,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)
I'll definitely let everyone know. :)
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Those Cyron intergrated LED's better be good.
At $200 they are (in my opinion) way overpriced and the $155 Ebay price isn't any better.
They say "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" but in the case of the Cyron for use on a Royal Enfield I'll just say, Ugly is a better description. :(
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Those Cyron intergrated LED's better be good.
At $200 they are (in my opinion) way overpriced and the $155 Ebay price isn't any better.
I don't have a dog in this fight, but one does often get what one pays for. And, just one of the cheap ones may be enough, but you'll need to figure out a way to install three of them in your headlight to match the light output of the expensive one.
On the other hand... for the price of half a cup of coffee... that cheap bulb might be worth a try at least!
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I'm reviving this topic because Guaire has the reliable LED bulb solution I like and heloego has the traditional 7" housing solution I like. Gauire didn't identify what 7" housing (nacelle) he is using nor what RE he is using it on so I don't know if his solution would work on my 2016 C5 (yes I've removed the always-on jumper). And I don't trust the reliability of the LED bulbs helego is using although I might not have a choice.
My current attempt is a CIBIE/Valeo 082440 7" housing with a Philips 12953BWX2 LED bulb (about the same length as Gauire's LED bulb). The bulb's heat sink bumps into the speedometer cable so I can't close the headlight assembly. An electronic speedometer replacement is not a option nor is a non-traditional integrated LED headlight like the Cyron, etc.
I've been considering adding a second headlight ring but I think it will make the RE look a bit "nosy". Maybe the visor will help here.
So my questions are:
(1) is adding a second ring too ugly even with the visor?
(2) Guaire -- what 7" housing (nacelle) are you using on what model RE?
(3) heloego -- are your H4 LED bulbs adequately reliable? Have they left you on a dark road far from home or could you switch to the other beam and ride home? Or do you carry a spare? :)
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Belay my questions. At $13.75 for five, I bought heloego's LED bulb solution from eBay and will use them with my CIBIE 7" housing. I'll carry a spare bulb in the "Oval Utility Box". Besides, the RE is my sunshine-only motorcycle so the headlight is really only for vehicle awareness. I'm still interested in Guaire's housing and RE model.
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Here's what I'm waiting on some funds for - hoping that the reversible heatsink will fit in my 2012 B5 easier.
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs/products/latest-3000k-warm-white-led-headlight-h4-motorcycle-hi-lo-beam-conversion-9-32v
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Ergyd -- that's a nice unit at an excellent price. Please let us know if the reversible heatsink solves the RE's depth problem. What 7" housing are you using?
The reversible heatsink gave me an idea. While Philips says the heatsink is to be installed in one direction (heatsink out from bulb) and one orientation (heatsink vents vertical), the heatsink can be reversed like your bulb. I'm going to try it today. With the back of the RE's instrument housing open to cooling air I'm thinking the bulb won't overheat. If it fits but seems to be overheating I will try adding a small fan to reduce the still air problem. I really like the Philips bulb on my BMW and am disappointed it doesn't fit my RE. I'll report my findings.
I've been looking at several 7" housings. So far the depth seems to be the same as the CIBIE's. If I find a shorter one, I'll report that too.
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Currently, I have the stock/standard 7" housing.
An option I'd look into if there wasn't enough room would be the wider rim from Hitchcocks:
http://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Head-Lights-and-fittings-Lighting/34284
Might help a little, without making it too 'nosey'... Anyone tried this rim?
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Ergyd -- WRT Hitchcock 93566, the 10mm/0.4" width is exactly how much extra space I needed. Of course, the 7" rim conversion I ordered from CMW is Black not Chrome. ;D Thanks for providing another option.
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I have installed this led headlight from banggood.com.
Works well..very bright and super white.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xcnqFU2j8OHlVd9t2
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Timbob -- what year and model is your RE? Was your headlight lens already 7" or did you have to convert to 7"? If you converted whose headlight lens did you use? My Philips LED bulb with CIBIE lens bumped into the speedometer cable so I'm curious (and envious).
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I don't know how to put bike details in the footer of my posts...duhh
Mine is a 2014 Classic C5 with standard 7 in headlight.
I have replaced Speedo and cable with GPS Speedo so no cable now.
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I don't know how to put bike details in the footer of my posts...duhh
Go to the Drop Down Menu under "Profile" in the banner above. Click on "Forum Profile". Once you look around the Forum Profile page it's pretty clear and intuitive. Good luck.
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Ergyd -- that's a nice unit at an excellent price. Please let us know if the reversible heatsink solves the RE's depth problem. What 7" housing are you using?
The reversible heatsink gave me an idea. While Philips says the heatsink is to be installed in one direction (heatsink out from bulb) and one orientation (heatsink vents vertical), the heatsink can be reversed like your bulb. I'm going to try it today. With the back of the RE's instrument housing open to cooling air I'm thinking the bulb won't overheat. If it fits but seems to be overheating I will try adding a small fan to reduce the still air problem. I really like the Philips bulb on my BMW and am disappointed it doesn't fit my RE. I'll report my findings.
I've been looking at several 7" housings. So far the depth seems to be the same as the CIBIE's. If I find a shorter one, I'll report that too.
Bert In Australia we would call you an ideas man , your always working on something interesting ☺ https://youtu.be/4Lrbw4-vkFM
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I'm reviving this topic because Guaire has the reliable LED bulb solution I like and heloego has the traditional 7" housing solution I like. Gauire didn't identify what 7" housing (nacelle) he is using nor what RE he is using it on so I don't know if his solution would work on my 2016 C5 (yes I've removed the always-on jumper). And I don't trust the reliability of the LED bulbs helego is using although I might not have a choice.
My current attempt is a CIBIE/Valeo 082440 7" housing with a Philips 12953BWX2 LED bulb (about the same length as Gauire's LED bulb). The bulb's heat sink bumps into the speedometer cable so I can't close the headlight assembly. An electronic speedometer replacement is not a option nor is a non-traditional integrated LED headlight like the Cyron, etc.
I've been considering adding a second headlight ring but I think it will make the RE look a bit "nosy". Maybe the visor will help here.
So my questions are:
(1) is adding a second ring too ugly even with the visor?
(2) Guaire -- what 7" housing (nacelle) are you using on what model RE?
(3) heloego -- are your H4 LED bulbs adequately reliable? Have they left you on a dark road far from home or could you switch to the other beam and ride home? Or do you carry a spare? :)
You could have used Search and looked at my posts. I thought everyone knew I’m on a GT!
2014 Conti GT. I’m the second owner. I assume it’s a 7” from CCM/Baker Motorsports. Here’s a picture of it. I removed the wire protector. https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,25608.msg295109.html#msg295109
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Hi Bert,
The lights so far have worked well for me. No probs yet, but I still carry a spare.
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I ordered 5 $2.89 H4 LEDs which arrived today. Status is:
#1 DOA due to shipping damage to rim
#2 died on one-hour daytime ride Descanso-to-Barona; I had it on Hi-Beam full-time
#3-#5 installation on hold until I'm sure I won't have nighttime ride
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Update - I have the Warm White LED from classiccarleds on order, as well as the Wide Headlight Rim from Hitchcocks. Will let you know how it all works as soon as I get them.
As a side-note, if anyone was also considering getting the very well reviewed small Hitchcocks Flyscreen, it adds the same amount of width as the Wide Rim unit according to the brilliant guys at Hitchcocks,
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I've been wanting to get a halo unit and black housing for my black 2016 GT.
What do you guys think of these kinds of aftermarket units?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N1K11Z/?coliid=I432F94EIU6M1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N1K11Z/?coliid=I432F94EIU6M1)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1Z8Z6O/?coliid=I2ZIQ04Y7JGM6R (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1Z8Z6O/?coliid=I2ZIQ04Y7JGM6R)
On a side note, I removed the jumper cable disabling the light controls and was able to turn my headlight on/off. About a week after, my headlight stopped working. Not sure if they're related.
The highbeam indicator stays on whether I push the highbeam button or not. If I unplug the sealed headlamp, that indicator stays off.
I'm hoping the headlamp just coincidentally died. I used a multi-meter to test the leads and all three leads seem to be sending voltage correctly.
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Have received, and installed the LED from classiccarleds...
And I'm super impressed. The instant-on when flashing main beam is brilliant, and the intensity of the light is great. Best of all, though, the warm colour means it doesn't have that 'modern' effect of the usual bright white LED. Still looks old-school.
It was a bit of a wiggle to get it all in place, and I did have to reverse the heat-sink into its shorter setting. And it definitely wouldn't have worked without the wider rim. But, if anything, it just forced me to give some attention to the wiring in there, and neaten it up a bit.
Overall, very VERY happy. Will send some pictures up when I get an opportunity for a night-time photo shoot.
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I've been wanting to get a halo unit and black housing for my black 2016 GT.
What do you guys think of these kinds of aftermarket units?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N1K11Z/?coliid=I432F94EIU6M1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1Z8Z6O/?coliid=I2ZIQ04Y7JGM6R
These are exactly the kind i am interested in too and i started this thread for the same reason. But i am still not able to make up my mind as there aren't any comprehensive reviews on youtube or anywhere of these Sealed LED projector headlights running on a motor cycle. I admit that they rob the RE of the old world charm but where i live and ride my B5, good lighting is almost the difference between life and death :o...
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I also bought from superbrightleds.com. It’s a US company. So far so good.
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I ordered 5 $2.89 H4 LEDs which arrived today. Updated status is:
#1 DOA due to shipping damage to rim
#2 died on one-hour daytime ride Descanso-to-Barona; I had it on Hi-Beam full-time
#3 Hi-Beam died after 3 minutes of riding; Lo-Beam died after another 3 minutes
#4-#5 gifted to a friend with a caveat
My well-used Philips 55/60W incandescent has been reliable but I want something that draws less current to make room for heated vest and handgrips. Since this is mostly a sunshine-only motorcycle and since the headlight is mostly for vehicle visibility not roadway illumination my plan is to mount an LED fog light (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/daytime-running-lights/led-fog-light-3-square-13w-1700-lumens/3542/7536/) below the headlight (in place of the RE nameplate) and operate it when the lighting switch is in the Park position (ie visibility mode) but not in the Headlight position (ie illumination mode) so an SPDT relay will be needed.
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I ordered the LED fog light today to use SBL's 15% Father's Day credit.
I decided my planned circuit was too complicated. Its now an SPST relay as follows: Pins 86, 30 = unused Pilot light Gry wire; Pin 85 = tap into Hi-Beam Blu wire; and Pin 87 = LED Fog Light +12. The fog light will be ON when the Pilot lights are ON and the Headlight is NOT Hi-Beam. I'm using the ground-through-filament trick for relay control. I should have it installed next weekend after the LED fog light arrives.
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So the 2001 Road King custom that I recently purchased had this led headlight installed and gets the job done quite well. And less than $50 its quite the steal. Definitely not retro or classic in appearance, but it sure is bright.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/For-HARLEY-7-MOTORCYCLE-BLACK-PROJECTOR-DAYMAKER-HID-LED-LIGHT-BULB-HEADLIGHT/262573437651?epid=554429214&hash=item3d2298b2d3:g:LaEAAOSwU-pXrHLg
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Carrots!
Rather than trying to make lights brighter we could instead try and improve our eyes' performance after dark. No further drain on batteries, no wiring upgrades, no dodgy 'pattern' LEDs from the orient. Just pop down to your local fruit and veg retailer.
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(https://proxy.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse2.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.tZAjPjXSMomDG4ZaaBFHJgHaEi%26pid%3D15.1&f=1)
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I noticed a number of members might be at or near that age when cataract surgery is a consideration. To obtain maximum visual performance, I had my ophthalmologist install single focus (long distance) aspheric lenses. Aspheric lenses reduce chromatic aberration for improved daytime and nightime clarity in glare conditions. Single focus lenses use the entire retina as compared to multi-focus lenses using only part of the retina for each foci and your brain learns which part to use appropriately albeit with fewer photoreceptor cells. Yeah I'm continuously switching to and from various reading glasses but its worth it every time I drive into a setting sun or oncoming headlights. I know where the road is! BTW you have to pay extra for aspheric. Trade the ribeyes for carrots and get a double benefit.
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What do people think of these?!
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/955088174/always-level-projector-light/description
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Those lights look like another answer to a question never asked and all for the lowly price of over $175 plus shipping. :(
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;D Exactly my thoughts too, Arizoni
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I didn't know REs could lean over that far. At least mine doesn't.
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I didn't know REs could lean over that far. At least mine doesn't.
Leaned my CGT so far that it sheared the bolt connecting the muffler to the exhaust.
I guess the peg feeler on that side is pointless. ha!
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I installed the 13W LED fog light for visibility today (the 55/60W incandescent headlight is for illumination at night). More details in ...today?
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Howdy folks. Reviving this old thread, hoping some of you are still hanging around these forums...
I ordered the fanless H4 bulb from SuperbrightLEDs, and it arrived yesterday. Here's what I got:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/back-up-light-bulb/motorcycle-h4-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-compact-heat-sink-2000-lumens/3930/8566/
Went to install it and sure enough the speedometer cable is still in the way. It looks like I can remove the heat sink and install it in reverse, but I will have to cut and re-solder the wires/plug in order to do so.
Just wondering if anyone has successfully fitted this bulb by using this method before I go to the trouble....? Is the 'reversed' heat sink able to squeeze in beside the speedo cable?
Another option is I could grind off one side of the heat sink, but I'd like to avoid that if possible.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Chuck
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Superchuck, can't you get an extended headlight ring that moves it forward another 20mm or so? I think I have seen such a thing. Also, I think the Hitchcocks Flyscreen moves the headlight unit forward as well, but not sure yet till mine arrives Thursday. I don't think grinding the heat sink is a good idea.
9fingers
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9fingers,
Thanks for the reply. The extended headlight ring has also been mentioned earlier on this thread and elsewhere. It surely would be the most elegant solution, but I am searching around online and I am unable to find it.
Amazon has this black powdercoated one, but it seems to be the same size as the normal 7" ring: https://www.amazon.com/Enfield-County-Powder-Coated-141634/dp/B00ZLRBHWC/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RFG07SYQ17E9HDH255B8
If I can source an affordable extended ring that would be my first choice, in case anyone has a link to one.
Turning the heat sink around is probably the easiest solution, just wondering if anyone has successfully done that?
Many thanks!
Chuck
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My C5 incandescent (amber) H4-to-speedometer cable spacing is so close that if I turn the speedometer rubber ring 180 degrees I can't install the 7" Cibie 82440 headlight. I'm using the black standard-depth ring -- I can't find the extended-depth ring in black either.
My experience with several unsuccessful LED designs followed by close questioning of successful LED headlight owners, I believe the C5 LED solution is either the extended-depth chrome ring (standalone or flyscreen-integrated) or a GPS speedometer.
I'm running an SBL fog light for daytime visibility and the amber H4 for nighttime illumination. If you find a black 7" ring solution please post it with part numbers and pictures!
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Thank you Bert,
I am actually not partial to black... if I could find an extended ring in chrome I would purchase that as well.
I actually have an AVL Electra, but from what I've gathered the headlight nacelle and speedo setup has not changed in our models from the Iron Barrel (at least in regard to this spacing issue we have).
I transitioned to an LED headlight bulb for the purpose of freeing up some wattage in order to use auxiliary LED clusters (which will help for night-riding), but my main intention is for better visibility from cagers on my highway commute since daylight savings means all my rides are in the dark until spring.
Does your reply mean that turning the heat sink around will still not fit with your stock speedo cable?
Does anyone know where I can find any version of the extended ring?
Many thanks!
Chuck
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I've put in a LED headlight which came with a reversible heatsink... Didn't have to do anything apart from unscrew a little grub screw, reverse it, screw back on. That was from classicarleds.com - I might've mentioned it earlier in this thread, or another LED one.
I did HAVE to buy the wider rim to get it to fit - bought it from Hitchcocks. The flyscreen does come with the wider rim too. For both, I think you had to have the larger, non-US standard headlight size
This wide rim became standard from a certain year, can't help with exactly when. My 2012 B5 had the narrow rim, hence the upgrade.
I'm trying to find links to all of the above - will post them asap.
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Here ya go with the extended ring http://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Head-Lights-and-fittings-Lighting/34284 Make sure you read carefully to get all the extra parts needed. Hitchcocks customer service is excellent so send them an e-mail to make sure.
My reference to the speedometer rubber ring is the tapered O-ring between the speedometer housing and the top of the casquette. I tried rotating it 180 degrees to tilt the dial towards me but then the H4 bulb socket hit the speedometer cable so I rotated it back to the original position. Spacing is that tight!
What OEM and p/n LED headlight are you using? And what are LED clusters? Details please.
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Here you go:
Hitchcocks item no. 93566
http://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Head-Lights-and-fittings-Lighting/34284
Classiccarleds H4 LED replacement
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs/products/latest-3000k-warm-white-led-headlight-h4-motorcycle-hi-lo-beam-conversion-9-32v
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Ergyd -- yeah you lead me down that classicleds.com path but you didn't mention that Hitchcocks chrome extended ring. :)
Here are the choices for LED lighting:
(1) carefully selected and perhaps modified H4 LED bulb and 7" housing with Hitchcocks chrome extended standalone or flyscreen ring
(2) fully integrated 7" LED headlight assembly from SBL, etc
(3) any H4 LED bulb and 7" housing with black or chrome normal ring and GPS speedometer
(4) my daytime 13W LED foglight and nighttime incandescent (amber) Hella 60/55W bulbs (https://www.amazon.com/Optilux-HELLA-H71070682-Yellow-Halogen/dp/B001BM0H8G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543350661&sr=8-3&keywords=yellow+h4+headlight+bulb) with black 7" normal ring solution. Relay and wiring modifications required.
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I didn't?! Ah, Bert, I'm sorry if so! Hope it didn't create too many delays in your LED search!
Another option I'd also add to your list would be a shallower headlight unit - I'm still considering this, as like you've said, even with the wide rim, and the reversed heatsink, it's still a bit close in there!
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffylighting.htm
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Many thanks to you guys... been super helpful in this!!
I am located in the US, and my 2009 Electra AVL came stock with the 5-3/4" (or thereabouts) aimable headlight. I replaced that OEM ring and sealed beam with this cheap third party aftermarket item from amazon... the page is still active but the seller says it is currently unavailable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HK0SRWG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As you all know, the above part (like the Hitchcocks one among others) has a reflector cone thingie which takes an H4 bulb. My headlight bulb electrical connectors (OEM) are three independent wires, each with a spade-type plugs which attach to the bulb (sealed beam and/or H4). Even with the stock setup, those connectors had to significantly bend out of the way of the speedo cable.
For the past couple years I have ran either Phillips H4 60/55w bulbs, or PIAA high output bulb of the same wattage. The LED I installed yesterday from SuperbrightLED's appears much much brighter than either of the halogens, but unfortunately I'm having the space issue and can't close the headlight ring. Technically it is closed now just for buttoning-up purposes, but I had to disconnect the speedo cable to do so.
I purchased these auxiliary LED clusters from Amazon which people seem to be raving about. I rode with somebody a year back who had them and they are hellabright, but I don't think they're focused enough to replace an actual headlight beam. My purposes are mainly for extra visibility, but they'll be great for dusky trail riding or nighttime twisties: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EJWB62U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think I might give a shot at turning the heat sink backwards with the SBLed H4 bulb... hoping it can cram beside the speedo cable, but I still have my doubts. I will also contact Hitchcocks for that extended ring, but I don't want to spend a ton of money for this solution. I might be more likely to cut into the 7" reflector thingie to try and push the bulb itself forward a bit. I know that will effect the beam pattern, but that's less of a concern since I'll be throwing so much light with the aux clusters anyway.
Thanks for the additional info, and keep the suggestions coming. This thread will be timeless for all Enfielders.
Cheers,
Chuck
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Superchuck -- super price on super lights. That's about what I paid for shipping my SBL fog light. :)
I'm exaggerating only a little. The SBL fog light is DOT approved for on-road use while your work lights are off-road only. In spite of the expense (SBL is value-for-money -- I'm a happy repeat customer) I chose my approach for the following reasons (not criticizing yours, just helping you understand mine):
(1) Priorities 1,2,3 -- I want to maintain the classic RE look to the extent my wallet stretches
(2) this is my fair weather, mostly daytime, 55mph surface roads motorcycle and I'm retired so not a critical daily driver
(3) my fears come from the rear not the front -- in East County red lights are an advisory not a mandate
(4) I wanted a wide, sharp-cutoff, high-K, low-wattage LED beam aimed-high for my DRL (my pictures were intentionally below the hot spot for photography reasons) that would be noticed by drivers in front of me but not so much by LEOs
Am I successful? I think so. That amber headlight provides adequate city and rural I-follow-cars nighttime illumination while looking like Lucas PoD electrics. So grins all around. This motorcycle attracts SO MUCH wistful attention. Although I just discovered the low-interest benefits of a share-secured loan. :) The only tough question the LO had was "Is that all you want?"
Ball is back in your court:
(1) post pictures.
(2) send details to product reviewer Bmadd34.
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I'VE SOLVED IT!!!!
Whelp, maybe....
So the problem is that the H4 LED bulb (actually its heat sink) sticks out too far in the back. And a shorter reflector/housing could solve this.
So you know what could also potentially solve this? What if we just move the bulb forward in the same reflector housing?
Yeah, something's got to give, so get out your tin-snips or hacksaw, but this might not be as bad as you think. Of course, if I mess this up, I'm either out a $40 LED bulb, or a headlight reflector housing (which may cost from $20-100) I forget what I got mine for. Who cares, let's do it! I'll be the test pig on this one.
My fanless H4 LED from SBL has a flimsy plastic rim/plate which marries up to the headlight reflector housing. Other bulbs I have seen have this same "H4-shaped" plate, but are often aluminum.
So here's what I'm going to do.... I'll take my tin-snips and trim that plastic plate down, so it now slides right through and further into the headlight housing. At least how mine is constructed, the heat sink is wider than that H4 mounting hole, and my plan is to cram that right up against the back edge of my reflector housing. The normal H4 bulb clips won't hold it in place, so I'll add some additional wire and maybe some rubber bands if I want to be truly elegant. I am hoping that the fins on the heat sink as they are crammed against the edges of the housing will prevent my bulb from rotating while my bike shakes its way down the interstate.
On my bulb, the heat sink is about 1/2" back from the H4 plate, so I think that could potentially give me just the clearance I need to get it to fit with a normal headlight ring and the OEM speedo cable.
This will definitely change the beam pattern thrown by my reflector, but I don't care horribly much. It's probably illegal too, so take this with a grain of salt. I'm just a hobbyist brainstorming to solve a problem.
Attached is a diagram of what I'm thinking...
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RE: my auxiliary light clusters: yes, they're super cheap. I hope they work, but many people have had good luck for them. I'm not really concerned with keeping my bike period correct, and yes I will be mounting them on top of my handlebars. I actually was planning on putting one underneath the normal headlight like you (Bert) did, but I think mine might be just a little too wide for that. Haven't measured though.
I live in Baltimore, and I commute on I-95 towards DC. It's one of the most harrowing autoways in the country. Because of the population density and the traffic, nobody gets pulled over for things like non-DOT lights, etc. Also, I love living in Baltimore City because you don't get pulled over for dumb stuff by bored officers. I love this town, and needless to say, our officers are not bored.
I'm more concerned with my personal safety, and more lights means more safer. I also plan to aim the LED clusters down at the road in front of me to have more visibility... it'll help cars zooming up behind me at 85mph hopefully see me and swerve in time. That said, when I'm on a Sunday ride through the small towns and twisties, I will be sure to keep my non-DOT (somewhat blinding) aux clusters in their 'off' position.
I love the look of the amber or yellowed headlights, but since I'm planning to run these LED clusters anyway, I went with the super-white. To each his own. I realize most Enfielders love the bikes for the history, and want to preserve that about them. I may be that way in a few years, and everything I've modified on my bike, I've kept the OEM parts in a box in my basement in order to do a full restore if I feel like it someday.
For a tail light, I am using a housing from Dime City Cycles (of questionable quality), but I recently crammed this light into it: https://www.radiantz.com/Harley-Davidson-Bullet-style-turn-signals-p/00073-hdts.htm . The LED cluster is from Radiantz and it is way brighter than a stock incandescent. I have a second LED cluster that came with it, and I plan to mount that to my bike under a fender or something. It's an 1157 dual function LED cluster, red-then-brighter-red, so I use it as a brake light.
Do you guys think my DIY trimming of the LED headlight bulb will work?
Any other crazy ideas floating around out there?
Fingers crossed!!!!
Cheers,
Chuck
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Superchuck -- I think all four solutions (H4 bulb, work lights, brake cluster, 2nd cluster) are a great match for your intended use. I know that part of I-95 from a decade ago and I also know traffic is neither lighter nor gentler since then. It would be great if there was an Aerostich Roadcrafter or R-3 suit under your Xmas tree. If not perhaps an airbag jacket or vest.
WRT to work lights, I think putting them in the same horizontal plane and aiming them about 30 degrees off-axis would improve your noticeability for oncoming and side lane drivers plus helping illuminate pedestrian, etc hazards on Baltimore's surface streets. Since work lights tend to spread vertically as well as horizontally, I'm thinking with handlebar mount maybe depressing 15 degrees. Unless their specification specifically says they are dimmable, intensity modulators won't work. Same with SBL H4.
WRT brake cluster, that is a very tidy solution although price in in my fog light territory. I kept the RE doghouse but installed the biggest Red LED 1157 that would fit. Turns license plate red but its illuminated so I'm sure LEOs will let it go. For your second cluster I suggest a brake light flasher. Timers.Shop has a programmable version (aka XDP on Amazon?) if you want to create your own light show. Programming is very easy -- you don't need the button board if you have steady hands and can follow instructions.
I'm adding SBL's https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/truck-oval-lamps/oval-led-truck-and-trailer-light-6-led-braketurntail-lights-w-24-high-flux-leds-3-pin-connector/1588/3658/ below the license plate as my second brake light. Yeah kind of a compromise on traditional look but a few weeks ago on the Mission Gorge SUV raceway, there was a white pickup behind me as I approached an intersection. The light turned Red which I stopped for but a white pickup blew by me through the Red. I looked behind me again -- no white pickup.
I'll send pictures when I've installed it -- you do the same.
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I don't know if they're available in the USA, but Wipac Quadoptic H4 headlamp units are a little shallower than other makes, which gives a few extra millimeters clearance. Part # HLW4701 or S4701 for you strange folks who insist on driving on the right. LHD = right hand dip.
https://bullmotifminispares.com/1875/lhd_wipac_halogen_headlight_s4701
UK price quoted, looks like they will ship.
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffylighting.htm
A.
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Nice outside-the-box thinking, Superchuck.
Any chance that the effectiveness of the heatsink could be compromised by being in such close proximity to the headlight?
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Bert, I've thought of using those truck lights myself in the past... do share with us your results!
Adrian, those headlight (reflector housings?) look fairly affordable, even considering shipping. Do you have one on your bike which you could pull a couple measurements to which others could compare? That would be a simple solution, especially since most Enfielders buy aftermarket units like those so they can use H4 bulbs.
Ergyd, Thanks! But yes, that is one of my fears about this little invention. I do not think that moving the heat sink (1/2 inch) will result in significantly less air flow. However, now that you point it out, would the heat sink now be 'extra heated' since more of it is touching the reflector? Perhaps that is why SBL designed their LED H4 bulb with a rubbery plastic mounting plate, so to better insulate against heat from the reflector?
Perhaps I will add a bit of rubber between the heat sink and its new reflector bedfellow to help keep it cool.
On the other hand, worst case scenario is the bulb burns out quicker. That would be less than ideal, but not the end of the world.
Cheers,
Chuck
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I've been looking at the shallow reflector unit, too... Though I don't have one myself, I've put the dimensions they specify on the website on a cropped version of your schematic, Chuck!
It was the build-up of heat which I was worried about, not the air flow... A rubber barrier of some sort might help I guess... Some form of rubber grommet, or lining around the edge of the hole in the reflector?
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If your reflector is glass there should not be a problem with the heat from the LED heat sink, as the LED unit itself will produce very little heat to transmit through the glass. If the reflector is plastic you definitely want some sort of insulation between the heat sink and the reflector.
Skip the rubber bands. The heat from the unit will wear them out in almost no time at all.
Use wire (.020"-.25") to fasten the assembly after aligning the light to the reflector, and keep us informed.
I've already received my GPS Speedo, so clearance won't be a problem for my AVL Electra.
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Just had a thought, guys, if you move the LED "bulb" or the H4 quartz halogen item forward in the unit from its original set position you will change and probably destroy the focus of the light unit. Ever since the the development of the pre-focus headlamp bulbs they have been in a fixed position for a reason.
I have used the left-hand dip version of the Wipac, the beam pattern was fine (in UK traffic), although I ought to mention that the fixed bulb holder (see above) worked loose in mine! It's still kicking around the garage, I will try and get some measurements off it.
A.
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Ergyd, thanks for the info- am I correct that the dimensions you posted are from the Wipac unit? Or is that a standard shaped 7" headlight?
Heloego, good to know. I think my reflector is glass. I may put a rubber bushing or washer between it and the heat sink regardless just to prevent rattle etc.
Adrian, I totally agree with you... I have that same fear that moving the bulb will cause undesirable beam patterns since it is not designed for those aletered geometries. Thing is I'm going to try it anyway... If it really stinks I can always make a new 'h4 shaped plate' with a donut hole cut in it, and go order an extended headlight ring. However, my situation is somewhat unique since I'll also be throwing forward 4000 lumens of flood light led clusters in addition to my headlight bulb.
In one of your previous links today I also read that the seller believes many Led bulbs have bad beam patterns. It makes sense... They light up in a very directional way, while a traditional halogen omnidirectional glow is what our reflector cones were designed for.
So much science! My brain is sore and wants to cut things. Specifically H4 led bulbs to hopefully fit into my Royal Enfield.
Perhaps tomorrow after work I will be able to do it.
Many thanks to all, and keep the suggestions coming!
Chuck
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Correct - Wipac dimensions. According to the website, they're 12mm shorter than standard... As I don't have one, I can't check if that's 12mm shorter overall, including a shallower glass dome, or 12mm shorter at the rear of the reflector - which is what we need!
Hopefully Adrian can clear this up for us.
I'll be in the garage tomorrow, so I'll take some pics and measurements of my setup.
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Question:
On these bikes (probably the same for all motorcycles everywhere I assume), when you switch from low beam to high beam, does that ignite the second filament IN ADDITION to the low beam filament? Or does it turn ON the high filament while turning OFF the low filament?
I'm planning to do this trimmed H4 bulb experiment tonight, and I'm also going to wire my aux LED clusters off of the normal headlight switch (if HI beam is selected, they'll be on, if LOW beam is selected, they'll be off).
Many thanks!
Chuck
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Low beam is separate and independent +12 from High beam but they share a common ground.
I use an ISO relay to control my visibility LED. Headlight switch Off=LED off H4 off; Park=LED on H4 off; Headlight=H4 on LED off. I use the ground-through-low-resistance incandescent filament trick to control the relay coil. It probably won't work for your LED H4. Don't forget about the Yellow High beam flasher which bypasses the headlight switch.
Details: in my C5 casquette, there are extra Gray and Black wires intended for a parking light in the headlight shell. I connected Black to LED Black. I connected Gray to Relay 30 and 86. I connected Relay 87 to LED Red. I connected Relay 85 to the wire that is between Headlight On and High/Low Beam so either beam On deactivates the relay (because +12 on both Relay 85 and 86) thereby turning off the visibility LED. If I took pictures they are still in the camera.
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Thanks for the info,
Your setup is pretty cool. I am basically a novice at electrical, although I've troubleshooted my fair share of gremlins on this AVL. I didn't know much about ISO Relays, so googled it... here's some interesting info for anyone else in my same boat: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html
At the moment my right-hand control cluster is misbehaving, so I put back in the stateside 'headlight jumper' which bypasses that lighting toggle. Someday I will get around to fixing it or replacing it. Maybe. It's good enough for now, I just can't go 'stealth mode' at the moment.
Thanks for the reminder about the hi-beam flash trigger. Does that essentially do the same thing (circuitwise) as flipping the hi-beam switch on and off very quickly?
Thanks!
Chuck
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No the Yellow headlight flasher bypasses the headlight switch (and in your case the jiumper). Trace through the attached schematic for UCE (AVL probably similar).
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OK, I dug out my old Wipac 7" reflector unit, the distance from the bulb holder at the very back of the unit to the lip round the outside of the lens where it sits in the (outer) headlamp rim is 62mm or 2&11/16" as accurately as I can measure it.
Any help, gentlemen?
A.
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Bert, thanks for the schematic. My AVL diagram does not have the zoom-in's of the switches.
Adrian, many thanks. Here is my headlight. When I measured it earlier I was mainly measuring to the back of the heat sink, which was just under 90mm (starting at that same back edge of the ring where it touches the motorcycle's inner ring. Didn't see your message at the time or I would've taken more measurements. It looks like the unit I have might also be of the shallow bowl variety.
Not sure if this Flickr image link will work or not, but here's a photo of me measuring my headlight unit:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4848/46110654211_b38f36f7b5_k.jpg)
The mad science experiment was a success and a failure, but mostly a success. More info to come.
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Sorry, that was the wrong photo...
Here goes... I think you can click it for a full sized view. Keep in mind it is a cell phone photo, and cell phone photos pretty much all have a slight fisheye lens, which skews the perspective:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4871/32239583128_491d8606a7_c.jpg)
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Looking forward to hearing about your success/failure in due course Chuck!
My setup seems to look the same in terms of dimensions - I've taken a few different approx measurements just out of interest.
Bulb length (tip to rear of heat sink) - 90mm
Depth of headlight unit (rim to rear of bulb mount) - 80mm
Depth of full setup from headlight rim to rear of heatsink - 120mm
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Ergyd, what make of headlamp unit are you using? Superchuck's Autopal definitely has a deeper bowl than the Wipac. Your measurement of 80mm from the back of unit without bulb to outer face of the outer rim corresponds to the 62mm I measured, less the thickness of whatever gauge of metal the rim is spun from. That effectively would give you nearly 3/4" extra clearance. That pus a wider (deeper) inner headlamp rim must be some help.
Glad I don't have casquettes on any of mine!
A.
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Alrighty folks,
Here's the rundown of last night's shenanigans. Overall I would say a lot of things went right, and it feels like a big success, but it still isn't an ideal solution.
So here goes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4878/32246119698_3123b0f354_n.jpg)
Another shot of the headlight with my Superbright LED H4 and its big long heat sink sticking out the back.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4878/45393430664_1002328e96_n.jpg)
A pic of the bulb hole.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4892/32246119448_97ef8de36c_n.jpg)
I realized that I could trim just a little bit off the circular part of (what I'm calling the) H4 mounting plate on the bulb. This was a fantastic eureka. With just this little bit of modfication to the bulb I can then finagle it down inside the headlight hole, but if this crazy experiment doesn't work, I am still able to use the normal 3 mounting tabs, so I haven't destroyed my $40 bulb.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4875/46117304801_8f81745102_n.jpg)
A shot showing both sides trimmed off. This is all the bulb modification I did.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4883/45393430474_08ea1e8c49_n.jpg)
Dry-fitting it. Looks like it'll work, but because of those small metal tabs sticking up, the bulb didn't marry up that snug with the hole.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4876/32246119248_b90d7942b8_n.jpg)
So what I did is bent those few metal tabs down with some needlenose pliers. I also then put a few small pieces of gorilla tape against the contact points on the bulb hole edges. The thought here was that the tape would make a thin pad which could possibly help prevent the bulb from squirreling itself free, or spinning, etc. I initialy used a metal wire of about 1.5mm diameter to try and secure the bulb, but it was too bulky to work with. So I opted for this green Christmas Wreath wire which I looped over top a number of times to basically tie it on. The bulb can wiggle a tiny tiny bit, but it is not noticeable at all when riding.
So, success right? Well, we'll see...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4855/46117304611_ce56832db8_n.jpg)[/url]
As I believe Adrian warned, the beam pattern is now totally sucky... with moving the bulb forward (probably 25mm?) it screws with the geometry (trigonometry?) (physics?) I dunno... but there's a big dark spot right in front, where as a true night rider you would least want it to be. However...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4826/32246119378_0015162e50_n.jpg)
When I flip to hi-beam, it is much brighter, and covers a ton more of the surrounding area, but there is still a glaring (or lack there-of) dark spot right in the middle. Plus, having the hi-beam on like this will dazzle the heck out of oncoming drivers, and is not safe in that regard.
So back to the drawing board. But luckily, I also was planning on mounting up those 6-LED flood light clusters to my handlebars. Here's a pic of that:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4871/45393430794_a30cefa235_n.jpg)
Low-light, hard to see shot of my Ennie with one of the LED clusters mounted (I have yet to mount the second one).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4850/45205976635_1791f67d71_n.jpg)
Here's a pic of the hi-beam, without the flood cluster. As you can see, you don't really need headlights to drive in the city at night. I had to ride all around until I found that dark industrial area for my previous photos.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4803/45205976415_9652e235a2_n.jpg)
And here's a photo of the hi-beam with the one flood cluster on. It's a pretty diffused beam which does not project strongly in the straigh-ahead direction, but it does help. Notice the garage door and the front of that red car as compared to my previous photo.
Synopsis:
Do I feel like my experiment was a success? Yes.
Do I feel this suits my purposes of increasing my own visibility to other drivers, specifically on the highway during rush-hour? Yes.
Is this an ideal solution? No.
Is this useful for night-riding in urban areas? Yes.
Is this useful for night riding on back roads, where things are actually dark? No.
Is this useful for daytime riding on back roads, so other cards will notice you? Yes. But I would still dim to my low-beam for oncoming cars (that will also black-out my flood LEDs).
Where do we go from here?
I have yet to mount the second LED flood cluster. That will help as well for my central dark spot, but I still think the center part of my beam will be dimmer than a normal bulb with a proper bulb position.
Also, I think I moved the bulb farther forward than it really needed to go in order to clear the speedo cable. My theory is the farther back I can push it (closer to stock H4 positioning) the better my beam pattern will improve. I am thinking I may cut a big thick washer shaped piece out of some dense closed cell foam I have laying around, which I'll put between the headlight bulb hole and the heat sink. That will push the bulb back a bit, hopefully improving my beam pattern, and will also have some give in case it crams right up against the speedo cable.
So there we have it. We have learned some and the mad science continues.
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Food for thought...
Here's something else I noticed today on my lunch break. See that big dark blotch in the center of my headlight reflector? I'm pretty sure that is the black plastic 'H4 mounting plate' of my bulb.
That could be another culprit for the big darkness in the center of my beam. I realize my problem is most likely due to the forward bulb position and math things, but this also can't be helping.
Seems that although I was able to do this experiment in a non-destructive way to my bulb, the fact that I left most of that black plastic disk intact may also be hindering my potential results.
Anyone have any suggestions / ideas?
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If you were in the UK or Australia this is the dip beam beam pattern you would want:
(http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/resources/h4low%20beam%202.jpg)
So for the USA I presume what you want is a mirror image of that!
Picture: http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/whats-new.php
A.
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Haven't made any more adjustments yet, but I plan to. I've ridden it a number of times within the city at night, but if I try and get out to some dark roads where a headlight is actually needed in order to see, my current setup is not very good.
Bert, have you mounted your rear truck lights yet? Care to share a photo if so?
Cheers,
Chuck
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Superchuck -- not yet. Temperatures have dropped to high-50s and we got a bit of rain last week so too cold and wet to work. ;D Also, in the midst of SB/GHG engine upgrades so haven't been hurrying. I just received my metalastic bushings and new exhaust pipe so gotta stop making excuses and get ready for when the engine is back together. I'll post pictures.
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I just bumped into this LED H4 bulb at Adv Rider (http://stores.advmonster.com/native-h4/). The heat sink is inside the headlight shell so the overall depth should be the same as an incandescent H4. Fitting the heat sink into the shell might be a bit tricky. I've read that some judicious filing of the opening may be necessary. I'm sticking with my amber incandescent H4 but thought the community might be interested.
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Hey, if it holds up better than the cheapo H4 LEDs I bought last year (low beam always fried too soon) I'd be very interested.
And $37 ain't bad, either!
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heloego -- yeah you go first. I'll catch up later. https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,25794.msg301075.html#msg301075 ;D
But they were cheap. If you weren't interested in actual illumination.
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I inspected one of the cheapos and it's the bad soldering done during manufacture. Minimal support of the LED housing didn't help, either.
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I have tried a few different led bulbs and been disappointed with all of them, have now fitted a 7 inch complete led light unit and I am very impressed , good spread of light and excellent beam coverage.
Have two spotlights fitted which really improve things still further.
Spotlights make very good DRL's as well.
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Dalmatian man -- nice setup. However I wanted to go with the traditional H4 bulb look. Yeah I know the LED "DRL" fog light below the headlight ain't traditional but I think I tucked it in fairly tightly.
Your pilot light colors are SO SO boring. Get some better colors at SBL. :)
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This is good stuff! Can't wait for somebody to try that new LED H4 bulb.
Tonight I think I'm going to mess around with my bulb placement again... will try and move it back as far as I can, hopefully improving the beam.
Will report back with photos.
That sealed LED beam is a good idea too.
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I have been running a 7" Sealed Beam LED Reflector unit on my B5 for a couple of months now and am pretty pleased by the performance. At 35w, it is not super bright but does a decent job of illuminating the road ahead with a wide spread too. The throw from High beam is not the best as it goes just a bit further but i can live with that.
I know it looks out of place on a retro looking B5, but i really needed an upgrade from the stock headlight. Let me know how you guys like/hate it :)...
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I don't believe it's a love or hate over the looks of a led headlamp on a retro bike.
With todays traffic conditions to see and be seen must override riding around with a headlamp that was more suitable for 50 years ago.
A happy new year to everyone.
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Howdy folks, and happy new year to you!
Last night I finally made those changes to my headlight that I previously alluded to. I used a piece of dense closed-cell foam to bring the bulb a little further back (closer to the OEM design position). It's squishy, so when it abuts the speedo cable it can still push forward a bit. Good news! This fixes my 'split headlight beam' scatter issue. It's now very focused. Perhaps too focused, but we'll get to that in a bit.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4863/46571356991_205a5be92f.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4858/46571356961_c60e8ce13d.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7902/46571356941_735fdff075.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7870/46571356881_8661893bc7.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4870/46571356841_352e78a0d6.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7927/46571356801_b2b40ac655.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7849/45847459994_1595eaae00.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7922/45847460154_d2b2d8a0bb.jpg)
That's the Hi-Beam above. Seems like it'll work, but unfortunately I didn't get to ride with it.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7902/45847460084_11f6406ae4.jpg)
And the low beam... still has some split-beam scatter.
So I did that all last night in preparation of today's morning commute. First day back to work after the break, and I was a bit groggier than normal. Kicked it, fired up first kick, but was a bit slogging. Blipped the throttle, and the damn thing was in gear! My bike and my body lurched forward, and took a spill on the concrete beside my parking pad. Dang. That smarts. No worries, and the bike has kissed the ground before, so no sweat right? Get up, dust myself off, and I notice that my glass/plastic headlight lens has shattered. Damn. I decide that discretion is the better part of valor, and if I'm too groggy to start my bike, I have no business riding to work today. Go back inside, drink a cup of coffee, and take the cage to work.
So although I think I most likely solved my LED light issue, now I'm at an impass because I need to replace my headlight lens. The ring is a bit dinged up (third time it itself has kissed earth at slow speed), but only this last time did the lens break. So since I have to replace it anyway, i think I'm going to try and find one of those extended headlight rings. This was fun, trying to invent a new solution, but sometimes simpler is better.
Cheers,
Chuck
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Sorry to hear about your mishap with the bike, still no to much damage done. Was going to offer you my now redundant headlamp, but on checking your in the US,while I am in the UK.
Still think you will struggle to get a good beam pattern with the led bulbs in a reflector that is designed for incandescent bulbs. But it's fun to keep trying.Good luck and best wishes.
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Thanks very much, and yeah, no sweat, just another step in the ongoing process of
'break something, fix it, figure out how to make it better, break something else and do it all again'
Thats the fun of it right?
Anyway, I am torn between going to a sealed beam LED headlight, or trying out the Wipac Quadoptic H4 (with Right-Hand-Drive). Which sealed beam LED's do you use and/or recommend?
There's a stateside Mini distrbutor who sells the Wipac Quadoptic, but it's in a two pack (still only $55 plus shipping so I may go that route).
I like the idea of an H4 so that I can carry a spare bulb on long trips (or easily buy a replacement at any auto shop), but in theory with a sealed beam LED you'll never need to replace it (unless you smash your lens like I did). (PS: I'm talking with a welder buddy of mine to try and make a protective 'crash rim' along the top edge of my outer headlight rim)
The quest continues.
Chuck
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I just picked a cheap projector led headlamp from eBay to test against the led bulbs I had been using, it gives a better light and beam pattern than the original headlamp.
I also have two 10 watt spotlamps mounted on the indictator rubber mounts, wired to give me drl's and extra light on main beam if required.
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Thanks very much! I'll report back with whichever route I decide to go.
Chuck
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So I was all set to pick up a Wipac quadoptic h4 housing, but all the retailers are in the UK, and they had to ship through a third party to do international. The website was fairly cumbersome so I decided to see what other options there were stateside.
Decided to go with this sealed beam led, free 2 day shipping from Amazon prime. At high beam this puts out 3600 lumens and only takes 30 watts at that output. It means I won't be able to bring a spare bulb on long trips, but in theory this led should last forever so shouldn't be a worry.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0788HXV8P/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I checked into the projector headlights, of which there are plenty, but they seem to draw as much power as a stock halogen (but output way way way more light). My goal was to decrease the draw of my headlight so I could add my auxiliary flood light clusters for aimable visibility (point them at the ground to the sides of me while highway commuting, point them out ahead while on dark backroads.
Will post back with my results.
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Looks like good choice, post some photos once fitted.
Tony
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Hi All,
Thank you for the valuable suggestions. I learnt that all these LED Projector Headlights available in India are made in China and i am not really comfortable with that as they are most probably fake :o..So i am looking at getting them from Amazon.com. I have attached a pic of the one i liked and would greatly appreciate if i can know:
a) Is this a direct fit on the RE B5 2014 (India)?
b) It is rated at 60 w for High Beam. So can i assume it will not strain the battery?
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I replaced the halogen bulb and reflector with a 7" sealed LED unit from Amazon, very similar to the one you posted. It works fine, it puts out plenty of light, and the wattage is no strain on the system. The only problem is that the beam is way too high, and I cannot figure out how to lower it. I don't see any obvious way to adjust the height of the beam on the 7" headlight replacement housing.
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You should be able to adjust the inner headlamp rim.
A.
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When I installed a 7" Lucas headlight on my 2011 G5 it ended up pointing too low.
I managed to fix it by elongating the lower two screw holes in the rear chrome rim that attaches directly to the main body to allow me to move the lower area of the rim forward. That resulted in the light pointing higher.
While that worked for me, I don't know what can be easily done to raise the light beam with this headlight setup.
While the lower part of the rim is located with the two screws, the upper part is hooked together so there's not much chance of changing it.
To move the upper area of the rings forward would require making a new "strap clamp" that was longer than the existing one. The strap clamp (as I called it) on mine is the metal strip that the top screw, screws into. It has a slightly hooked end on it that catches on the upper part of the rear headlight chrome ring.
I guess these problems are the reason DOT insisted that the headlight on the US models must be made with that stupid adjustable headlight the motorcycles come with.
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I think you're right. There is some logic to the 5.5 inch headlight after all. Still, it is odd that RE makes no provision for adjusting the 7 inch headlight which is more prevalent. I guess I'll have to fabricate something, like a longer strap clamp, and then a cover for the gap it creates. If there is enough play in the retainer clips, maybe I could put shims around the bottom between the housing and the light and then seal the gap with clear silicon.
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Alrighty folks,
So the new sealed beam LED seems like a win! This is what I bought:. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0788HXV8P?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
I had to bend my outer headlight ring back into shape since it got banged up in my bike's sit-down the other week.
This sealed beam seems to be super high quality, and it's really heavy... The whole thing seems cast out of some sort of metal. The lens is plastic. It's sharp, but pretty modern looking, if that's something concern of yours.
Attached are 4 photos,
No headlight
Low beam
High beam
High beam and aux led floods
This looks super promising. Our snow finally melted, but it rained this afternoon so haven't ridden with it yet. Hopefully tomorrow at some point.
Chuck
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Looks like a good solution at a good price. Seems to have provision for parking light if you have some spare time. I like this one: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/9096/#/attributes/102 perhaps using this https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/vehicle-bulb-sockets-adapters/t325-wedge-base-socket-wired/1150/2737/?accessory_of=206-all_accessories
Yeah I went for old-time look including amber but then I don't have your riding challenges. If I did mine would look like yours.
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Thanks Bert,
Those are great LED's. I think that's what I'm using as turn signals in my 'tiger eye' running light locations, or something similar from SBL.
I can see the area in the back of the fixture where a running/ parking light would go, but I don't see a hole in the reflector, at least on my unit. Perhaps they use the same mold to cast various items, some with the added LED, some without. Or perhaps you're supposed to drill it out. Dunno. I'll probably leave it as is.
Here are a few other photos of my light fixture. Please note that the black metal portion of the sealed beam thingie sticks out a few mm beyond the chrome rim, at least on my rim, so if that aesthetically is a problem, may want to search out other options. Hoping this rain stops so I can go for a chillingly crisp ride sometime tomorrow!
Chuck
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Pleased you got the headlamp fitted and can see a improvement in the light beam.
The chrome headlight rings are available in black which would sort out the protruding issue.
Don't think drilling the rear of land would be a good idea, no way of knowing where any of the electronics in the heat sink.
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If you look at the 1st picture and Amazon's 4th picture you will see a round relief possibly intended for a pilot light.
I could only find the Black rim in standard depth.
I found this https://www.amazon.com/The-Helmet-Hook-EX1-Lock/dp/B013ME9PII/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=helmet+hook&qid=1547998079&s=Automotive&sr=1-7 handy when putting on/taking off helmet.
Don't wait for rust with that fork gaiter.
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The standard depth rim should be fine,as the led unit is slimmer than the original light unit.
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High and low are 30w/15w. That's a lot less than 60/55.
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I'm using this combo . So far so good. Bright as hell , less draw on the system then a Halogen 7" sealed beam, fits perfect, very happy with it....
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-headlight-bulbs-conversion-kits/h4-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-adjustable-color-temperature-and-compact-heat-sink-5000-lumensset/4442/9993/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-002395031?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-hella&gclid=CjwKCAiA1ZDiBRAXEiwAIWyNCw_FwBMspH457KzX0IhuCHvHRCOG_F_XXo3R6hSrqWIsa5-QSvZFuhoCmtEQAvD_BwE