[Matt1995]

Hey guys, recently just got my project bike up and running (an 01 bullet 500). I ordered a new carb kit from Hitchcocks and did a rebuild on it. However, before and after I had it running, it was very hard to start. Popped almost every other kick. I have been trying the proper start method by kicking it over till the ampmeter needle goes into the red but the needle won’t stay in he red. My next thing to do would maybe check the valve tappets. What’s the easiest way to find tdc on compression stroke? Anything to check for on the carb? Also I pulled the spark plug out and the gap was out of spec. After fixing that issue it fired up, ran great, but still hard to start.

[AzCal Retred]

There's no magic here. The valves have to be loose enough to actually be closed at TDC Compression stroke to provide enough sealing at kickover speed. The spark has to happen at no more than 0.8mm BTDC when the points open for easy starting. Do you have the Hitchcock's TDC tool? The point advance extractor tool? A compression gauge? The Snidal Manual? The downloadable Hitchcock's manual?

FIRST - check engine cranking compression. FUEL OFF - Throttle wide open, kick thru 10 times until readings stabilize. A stock 6.5:1 motor will be 110 - 115 PSI. Check before & after adjusting valves. If compression is under 95 PSI something is wrong - fix that first.

For valves - Open the tappet cover. Put the machine on the center stand, pull the spark plug, operate the gear lever up to 4th (1:1 ratio) as you roll the rear wheel. Using your TDC tool, observe the intake valve operation as you roll the wheel in the normal direction. At about TDC the intake will begin to open. Keep rolling, the piston falls, finally the intake valve will go closed. Roll the engine with the rear wheel some more, watch the TDC tool. When the piston rises and there is no valve movement, you are coming up on TDC Compression. Stop at TDC. Check the lash - the intake tappet should spin free with no perceptible up & down lash, the exhaust should have just perceptible lash. If the tappets spin freely, the valves are mechanically seated. If the seats are good they'll seal.

For timing - KEY OFF, don't cook the coil & burn the point surfaces - Remove the distributor cap. As the piston approaches TDC Compression the points will crack open. Use the TDC tool and closely observe the points with a strong light. The most accurate way is to unplug the distributor lead and read contact continuity with a VOM meter or adapt a light or buzzer to gain feedback of the exact opening point. There is slop in the distributor gears, so you need to roll the engine at least 1/2 revolution to "take it up". The TDC tool reading will tell you when you are passing thru 0.8mm BTDC and the points should open then. A buzzer or lamp makes this easy. The base timing can happen later than 0.8mm and still start fine. "Ping Timing" as described by Snidal is the best way to tune later for best power. The point gap should be from 0.010" to 0.020" and will work OK. If the gap is "OK" then the backing plate is used to adjust timing. If you run out of slot, the point gap can be fudged a bit. If you need more, you'll need to reposition the point cam - Hitchcock's has the extractor tool. Set the point gap back to 0.010" - 0.012", pop the advance free from the shaft, reposition & recheck. You'll want to end up at mid-slot on the backing plate.

For Carburetor - Disassemble the carb (don't forget the choke circuit) - record the jet sizes, (main, pilot, needle jet)  needle size, slide cutaway size. Blow out all passages with carb cleaner & WD40 (a clean solvent). Check the float height. Make sure the float isn't degraded/sinking. Make sure all emulsion tube holes in the needle jet are clear. Make sure the main & pilot jet passages are clear. Carefully reassemble. Hitchcock's has a MikCarb jetting chart which is very good, it shows known good combos for different air cleaner & exhaust pipe combos. See if your jets agree with the chart for your configuration.

Do the basic checking work. This machine is simple. If it's relatively stock, compression is in the useful range and the settings and adjustments are standard it has to work.

The starting drill is: Key ON, Decompresser engaged & venting - slowly push the engine thru with the kickstart until amps go UP(points close, charging coil), keep pushing until they DROP(points open, making spark), maybe go a bit more past. Release the decomp, kickstart lever back to rest position. With a "long swinging kick" boot it thru. Some find "cracking" the throttle helpful; see what works for you. Choke is usually needed if stone cold and air temp is in the 40's - 50's. Usually unnecessary on 90 degree days. A couple "priming kicks"(fuel ON, Key OFF) and then a real attempt usually does the job. It's an acquired skill.