[jsrfo]

Looking for any informational books or manuals for a 1957 Indian Trailblazer.

Recently acquired one, and there's a lot to learn.

My first step in learning is the ignition system. It seems there are a few different types. I know this one is a magneto ignition, no key, and no left hand timing control, but it's cold hearted to start, and I'm looking to resolve that, as my first thing to do.

Any help getting pointed towards information on these or, the 1957 RE Super Meteor, I believe, would be extremely appreciated.

[Adrian II]

Hiticocks' have posted various workshop manuals on line. Including the Trailblazer? Oh yes!

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/core/media/media.nl?id=238076&c=1062795&h=kiI4gRuO4E9URRf6N9898jYt96sU0GIaZyobvBd0IXaKgS0a&_xt=.pdf

The magneto is probably the chain-driven Lucas SR2 with an auto-advance mechanism built into the magneto's drive sprocket, so no manual advance as you would often find on a K2F. I think Lucas' SR range was inspired by (copied from?) the American Fairbanks Morse magnetos.  Points and condenser are easy to replace, though the magnets in the armature could have lost some oomph over the years, or the internal coil might need rewinding/replacement.

Here's the on line parts book for the Super Meteor, which will have many parts in common. For a paper version of the Trailblazer parts book, try this:

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Indian-Badged-Models-Parts-Books/16335

Any help?

A.

[ddavidv]

If it has no timing advance cable, it must have the auto advance. I have it on my Interceptor.
The little chain that drives it can become slack causing the timing to be a bit variable. Hitchcocks sells replacement chains.
Getting the timing right if you pull the sprocket off is a fiddly process. Make sure it's set up before you take it apart, then triple check it as you go putting it back together. They chose a tapered vs keyed seat for the sprocket and it's easy to get it set wrong as a result.
Also check the chain tension for the main engine timing while the cover is off.
The mag should provide a very healthy spark at the plug. If it does not, you probably need to have it rebuilt. Hard to find competent rebuilders anymore. I use:

Spyder Integrated Technologies
LUCAS & Miller Magneto, Dynamo & Regulator Restoration
SMITHS Chronometric Speedometer & Tachometer Restoration
Attn: Gregg Kricorissian
154 Ruskin Ave,
Ottawa, Ontario
Canada, K1Y 4C1

Not cheap, but the guy knows his stuff and he's owned these bikes.

[jsrfo]

Thanks to the both of you. I'll be looking into this and hopefully will get the bike running smoothly.

Really cool bike, and my first dive into a bike this old.

[ddavidv]

My Interceptor was the first 'antique' bike I've fiddled with, though my Bullet is essentially an antique bike that was assembled in 2007.    The twin is generally easy to work on, but does have some quirks and suffers a bit from tight packaging here and there.

I assume you know you'll need a set of Whitworth tools as the hardware is neither SAE or Metric?

Though not specific for your bike, a twin is a twin for most things, and I'd recommend joining this mailing list:  https://groups.io/g/REInterceptor  Lots of very smart people over there that will gladly help you through problems.

[oilypuddlefield]

If I may jump in regarding magnetos, the biggest culprit with an old mag is the capacitor. Before investing big $$$ refurbishing a working mag, it might be worth considering this... Easy Cap solid state capacitor.
It's a fairly easy job with plenty of online assistance. I did one and had no problems.
Anyway.. for anyone interested, have a look....
https://brightsparkmagnetos.com

[jsrfo]

If I may jump in regarding magnetos, the biggest culprit with an old mag is the capacitor. Before investing big $$$ refurbishing a working mag, it might be worth considering this... Easy Cap solid state capacitor.
It's a fairly easy job with plenty of online assistance. I did one and had no problems.
Anyway.. for anyone interested, have a look....
https://brightsparkmagnetos.com

Thanks for that. I will look into it. Still sorting through this bike!

[jsrfo]

So, as I go through this bike, I've noticed some electrical things that aren't making sense to me.

The bike does not have a key, so that's new to me.

There seems to be some sort of ground loop somewhere, as the battery drains after a couple days, when parked.

I say this because when started, the bike appears to be charging. After running for a while, with the bike shut down, the headlight and taillight will remain lit until I turn them off at the headlight.

A day or two later, they do not illuminate, and the battery reads nearly 0V.

The other odd thing is that the combo horn/light switch on the left handlebar doesn't seem to work properly. With the switch on Headlight in H, one position of the handlebar switch gives lighting, the other position does not. With the switch on the Headlight in L, it's the opposite on the handlebar switch...

Also, if anyone has a 1957 Trailblazer wiring diagram, it would be appreciated, as the wire colors in the wiring diagram from Hitchcocks for the 1955-1958 Indian Trailblazer do not match my bike.

If no other diagram is available, I can sort through it with a DMM, just hoping there's info available that I haven't found.

Whole new learning experience here. Sorry for so many questions.

[grumbern]

This one's from the original works manual from the 50s:

[Adrian II]

Also, if anyone has a 1957 Trailblazer wiring diagram, it would be appreciated, as the wire colors in the wiring diagram from Hitchcocks for the 1955-1958 Indian Trailblazer do not match my bike.

After all these years it's no surprise if various owners have changed the wiring about.

The battery could be discharging through a faulty rectifier, but test the battery itself by leaving it fully charged but disconnected for a couple of days and see if it holds the charge OK, even new batteries can still fail.

It is well worth converting the lighting system to 12V, if your original alternator is still putting out a healthy charge you can re-wire it with a 12V reg/rectifier and 12V battery, though you could use a capacitor and run the lights battery-less. The 12V system is a lot simpler and new wiring will help you get rid of the lighting problems.

If you wanted an off switch for the magneto ignition, there is an insulated terminal on the side of the Lucas SR magneto bodies which you could wire into a separate kill switch or even a key switch.

A.

[jsrfo]

So, I went through nearly all the wiring, and basically, the harness has different colors than the schematic. I have no idea why.

But, there is a hard ground between the hot wire and the ground wire somewhere.

I do have some strange wiring on it.
There are two red wires coming down from under the tank, one is attached to the frame at the Rectifier, and down to the lower engine support. Not sure what these grounds are for.

Also, the schematic shows a "pilot light" or "Parking bulb" wired to pin 4 of the headlight switch, but I cannot find a pilot light. Just headlight, taillight/brake light and the speedometer light. That wire goes into the wiring harness, so that needs found.

And somehow, the wires coming out of the alternator are different color than the schematic, but change to the schematic colors.

Frustrating. Curious how to convert to 12V. I'd like to keep this as original as I can, but reliable.

[Adrian II]

The pilot/parking light arrangement is either a pair of sidelights if your bike has the casquette or nacelle headlamp casting, or if it's a standard Lucas SU700 separate headlamp there would be a single bulb in the headlamp reflector unit just below the headlamp bulb. However you can get headlamp reflector units WITHOUT any provision for fitting one, and given that your bike is showing signs of a previous owner having been playing around, a non-OEM reflector unit might have been fitted at some stage.

I'll get back to you on 12V re-wiring, it's all quite straightforward.

A.

[jsrfo]

Seems that I got the grounding issue figured out. This bike had two grounds, one on the rectifier and one on the frame at the engine. I found that the rectifier lead was causing the grounding issues. I removed that wire, and then found the rectifier mount had to be properly oriented so as not to cause a ground between the alternator wiring and frame. So, it seems to be fixed right now.

Still interested in a 12V mod.


As for the wandering issue, I finally put about six miles on the bike and noticed that when leaning left, there is a rubbing noise, so now I suspect a possible bearing issue there, not sure, but something needs attention. Not riding it more until this is sorted. Sucks because the season is closing fast.

I also noticed that there is no tire pump on this bike, and was wondering if there were reproductions available?

Thanks to all for the help.

[grumbern]

But you kept in mind, this bike is positive ground und therefor the rectifier housing at positive potential?!

[Adrian II]

I also noticed that there is no tire pump on this bike, and was wondering if there were reproductions available?

Normally yes, but Hitchcocks' are currently out of stock. Other British Bike spares suppliers may have them, try Baxter Cycle.

This might interest you for 12V.

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/GoffyAlternatorNotes.htm

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyalternatorwiring.htm

A.